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Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette Review, Photos, Swatches

01/20

Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette | Look Details
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette | Look Details
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette | Look Details
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette | Look Details
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette | Look Details
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette | Look Details
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette | Look Details
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette | Look Details
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette | Look Details
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette | Look Details
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette
Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette

Subculture

Anastasia Subculture Eyeshadow Palette ($42.00 for 0.28 oz.) includes 14 eyeshadows with three shimmery shades and the rest having a matte finish. I suspect that the palette is going to be a love/hate product in the community as sometimes it can produce really stunning looks and other times, it feels like a lot of work to make the palette come together. I feel the color scheme works cohesively as a concept, but the products themselves were troublesome to get to work together sometimes.  My best tips for working with this palette are:

  • Use a lighter touch and less than you think you need, especially for the mid-tone and deeper shades–they are really, really pigmented
  • Use a smoothing base or primer or a lightly powdered lid/prep routine (damp, tacky, or creamy bases might make it even harder to blend these out)
  • Be aware that some shades darken once on the lid (try dusting the lid with translucent or flesh-toned powder first)

Updated @ 7/31/2017 8PM PST

I spent part of my evening chatting with a long-time friend, Leesha, who you may know as xSparkage, one of the OGs of YouTube. We were messaging on Facebook, and it was over Subculture. We were trading videos and images using the exact same shades, and the experiences were wildly different. She tapped her brush a few times into Dawn, and it was like an explosion of powder–as if there was no binder and nothing to keep the eyeshadsow intact. I repeated her actions in my palette, and it had powderiness but not an explosion; it wasn’t disintegrating before my eyes. She showed me a picture of her after having tried apply Axis, where very little of it stuck to the lid. I took a fluffy brush and dabbed it into Axis, and I had a lid full of Axis with no fallout. She asked me, “Does it stay when you blend?” And I volley back with a video me blending the ever-loving-life out of my lid and there’s nothing come off. She and I don’t review things the same way, and sometimes we agree, while other times we don’t. The difference is not just a matter of pressure or technique–it was baffling, concerning, and at this point, with reviews ranging from “I had zero issues” to “worst palette ever used,” there seem like there are real, genuine issues in manufacturing or production of the palettes.

Updated @ 8/5/2017 11AM PST

I suspect this will likely be my last update on Subculture, unless the brand issues a more formal/official response (e.g. “a re-release featuring a harder press and an updated formula”) that is newsworthy. As I mentioned in this post of Subculture dupes, I purchased two more palettes from Sephora and Beautylish sent me another, which gave me the chance to play with four palettes (three difference batches). I tried my best to discover inconsistencies but did not seem to come away with one of the disastrous palettes going around. I continue to feel that there are issues with the consistency in the mixing of the shades and pressing of the eyeshadows into the pan that results in inconsistent results across palettes. I have not had a “failed” look, which the more I think about it, the more those fails were the result over-application than the product having no blendability at all, since the two I documented in the review (so uses #1, #4-16 have been successful for me–which does not mean perfection since none of my looks are perfection).

My experience using the palettes on the eyes remains consistent with the experience I had with my original palette, purchased from Anastasia directly, where using smaller brushes and slightly less product than one might expect to use, I had little fallout and did not have issues with the eyeshadows not adhering to the skin nor did I have problems where the color refused to blend out. After working with this palette and thinking about it from every angle–overthinking it!–I still think it is a palette that is going to be harder to work with. Part of that stems from the colors themselves, as they are all richer but muted shades with many that do not blend as seamlessly as peach to orange or gold to copper might. I think that it could be pressed more firmly, even if it was at the expense of some pigmentation, because the formula is really, really pigmented and there’s a fine line between perfect application and over-application. If you go over, the area is so densely packed with pigment that it is difficult to diffuse or blend or sheer it out. I genuinely did not feel like I had to severely alter or baby the palette to make it workable. I have had to do more tricks with other palettes, and there are other palettes that are much more difficult to use without primer.

The other thing I noticed was that there really does seem to be a stronger white base in shades like Dawn, Roxy, and New Wave (possibly Edge as well but to a lesser degree). I think some of that can cause lightening or an ashier cast when layered over deeper shades like Axis and Rowdy. I experienced this when using other brands, like Viseart, and taking a more white-based shade (like a yellow) and layering it over a deeper shade (like a deep green). However, due to the more powdery quality and the pigmentation level of the Anastasia formula, it can just be more noticeable and harder to control.

Anastasia Subculture Palette Testing
Three looks are using the three Subculture palettes (two from Sephora, one from Beautylish) and one uses Viseart Dark Mattes/Warm Mattes palettes, can you spot the one created with Viseart? Click here for the answer. Click here for a larger image.

For the above looks, I used the same placement and brushes for each look to try and mimic as much as possible. I also timed each spending between eight and ten minutes per eye, as I wanted to put in some effort but also not be unrealistic and spend 45 minutes trying to perfect every edge. I used Smith 253 (three of them) to apply each shade to the lid–Rowdy (inner lid), New Wave (middle of lid), Axis (outer lid). I used the Smith 253 slightly angled and on its side to drag Axis into the crease but used a large, domed eyeshadow brush (Tom Ford 11) to blend. I used a fluffy crease brush (Hakuhodo J142) to apply Dawn above the crease. I used a fluffy blending brush (Hakuhodo J5523) to apply Burberry Trench eyeshadow (discontinued) as a brow bone highlighter but was careful not to use it to “help” anything along (Dawn is just too dark for a brow bone highlight on me!). I used a small, domed eyeshadow brush (Zoeva 237) to apply Electric to the inner tear duct and lower lash line (for the look with Viseart, I substituted Make Up For Ever 4 Frozen Green).  The lower lash line is Marc Jacobs Beauty Whirl(pool) Matte Highliner.

I noticed that New Wave from the palette from Beautylish was lighter and more yellow compared to the two palettes from Sephora. I also felt that using Electric dry was superior to using it damp.

Anastasia Subculture Palette Testing
Three looks are using the three Subculture palettes (two from Sephora, one from Beautylish) and one uses Viseart Dark Mattes/Warm Mattes palettes, can you spot the one created with Viseart? Click here for the answer.

Anastasia Subculture Palette Testing
Photos of any fallout (spoiler alert: very, very little for all four looks). Click here for a larger photo. Click here for the labels.

Anastasia Subculture Palette Testing
Testing blending (for grayness, patchiness, and product lifting) between New Wave and Axis across all four Subculture palettes I have. The very furthest (on the right) is using Viseart Dark Mattes.

Anastasia Subculture Palette Testing
One of my palettes from Sephora arrived with three broken pans. Dawn was almost completely obliterated and Roxy was nearly there; Cube was halfway there but dropped out in a big chunk when I turned it over in the trash (to start the cleaning process). I think this illustrates how the press and binding of the formula can make or break it; it seemed particularly finely-milled but loose, more separated. I have received many broken products over the year, and it is pretty rare for anything to arrive with almost no chunks intact.

Original Review

Editor’s Note: Based on using this palette more than probably any other palette I’ve used in the last 5 years, there were no significant changes made except for Cube, which became particularly worse with continued use, which dropped raw rating to 82.4%, which dropped the averages to 7.5/9.5/8/8/4 for the palette as a whole. I have only added edits where applicable but left the original review intact.

When the shades blended together well, they looked good and lasted all day without issues, but it says something when I apply it, have to remove it as there was no saving the look, and then have to remove a second time for the same reason before getting something decent on the third try is highly unusual. I didn’t even attempt the same look twice; I just tried something totally different to see if happened to be placement/particular shades. The more I worked with the palette, the more important is became that using less product was key when using any of the mid-tone to deep shades, but it was easy to over-apply product, which is where it became difficult to blend edges. Edit on 8/5/17: Part of the “failed” looks came from applying too product too quickly, and rather than spend 45 minutes trying to diffuse it (which probably would not have gone well), it felt like a situation where removing and redoing was going to be better. I’ve worked with Axis SO much since my initial review and find it blends out about as well as most matte, dark teals have but is much more pigmented/richer from the get-go.

The first failed attempt consisted of Electric on the inner lid, Destiny on the middle, Untamed on the outer lid, and Axis in the crease, where Untamed had darkened so much that it was almost indistinguishable from Axis and Destiny was splotchy, so with so much darkness, so high up over the crease with Destiny looking patchy, I needed to start over. The second failed attempt consisted of Edge on the inner lid, New Wave on the middle of the lid, Roxy on the outer lid, Fudge in the crease, and Rowdy in the deep crease/outer lid, and where it all went wrong was when I applied Fudge in the crease, because it gave me a cut crease and refused to diffuse and blend with the lid colors (which had all blended beautifully together!). The last attempt that managed to work decently was the third look above (with All Star all over the lid). The very first look I did (the day I got my palette) came together with ease and gave me no problems at all (except Cube).

Before I went to bed, I decided I wanted to try to put together two more looks to see how everything would blend together, and one attempt went awry where I tried putting Dawn all over the lid prior to applying the rest, which just resulted in a chalky, faded mess (all pigmentation from All Star vanished but applied over bare skin, boom!) but this technique is often hit/miss for me (laying down a base powder shade first). The next two attempts were moderately successful with extra patience, even more care and attention, and using smaller, flatter brushes and building up as much as possible (trying to account for the intense pigmentation of the darker shades) – those would be looks four and five.

I also decided to compare ingredients of Fudge, which exists in the permanent line, and the ingredient lists are different (see the single of Fudge ingredient list here): dimethicone was the first ingredient but now is the sixth ingredient (that seems more significantly changed) but much of the list is different with some ingredients missing altogether and a few in very different orders. What’s strange is that they do not feel inferior in any way until starting to blend/work with them. I thought maybe there was an update, so I checked the ingredient lists for Realgar and Brick (singles, launched this year), and they follow more closely to the single of Fudge’s as well. Modern Renaissance has comparable lists for Realgar and Brick but has mica as the first ingredient (whereas on the singles, it is listed in the +/- list, so I’m not sure if that’s just a discrepancy in how it’s listed vs. amount in it).

There was something about the texture of the matte eyeshadows that resulted in inconsistent application and poor interactions between the shades within the palette. If you have ever taken a matte eyeshadow and applied it over bare skin that still had a bit of still-damp moisturizer or some natural oil from the skin itself and seen it darken slightly in places, these seemed to be particularly prone to that (and that is not something I’ve experienced too often with the brand’s products) but curiously, this happened even over more silicone-based eyeshadow primers, which typically yield a very smooth base.  This type of application can mean that one day, everything is easy and looks great, and the next, it’s quite challenging to produce a quality look.

I noticed that sometimes the eyeshadows did not blend as well into each other, and this seemed particularly true when attempting to layer and blend the deeper shades over the lighter ones, but while trying to apply some of the lighter shades over the deeper ones, they seemed to wash out and muddy up the colors. The thing is, this hasn’t been an issue I’ve encountered often with Anastasia’s eyeshadow formula. I’ve tried the palette over bare skin (duh) along with four primers: Smashbox 24HR, Marc Jacobs Coconut Eye Primer, Urban Decay Original Primer Potion, and LORAC Behind the Scenes Eye Primer. It did not get better or worse with or without a certain primer; it remained inconsistent.

I watched the brand’s video introducing Subculture, where they mention two duochrome shades, but I did not hear anything about them being sheerer products. I also looked at the swatches they shared, which showed both duochrome eyeshadows as being quite pigmented–not what I personally experienced. In fact, Cube did not work well with a dampened brush as the base seemed very powdery and more matte, which made it go on unevenly and caused hard pan. There are so many shades just like Cube and Electric (neither is a unique duochrome) that work better and more easily, and I was really taken aback by the lack of opacity and blendability from the duochromes given how well Anastasia has done shimmers in the past.

The texture was of the mattes was quite substantial; they were denser with a very silky, smooth consistency, which made them pigmented and apply that way so long as I applied them to the lid first. When I tried to apply Rowdy on the outer corner and into the deeper crease (with Fudge as a transition shade and Roxy on the outer lid), it seemed to sheer out a bit and never appeared as intense as it did on its own (it seemed more an issue of Rowdy not adhering onto Roxy rather than Roxy overwhelming the depth of Rowdy). I struggled to get Fudge to blend downward from the crease with the lid colors–it looked like a cut crease, though it was not an attempt to do so!–but I could diffuse it moderately above the crease, where there was no eyeshadow yet.

Some of Anastasia’s matte eyeshadows are so soft that they can be powdery in the pan, and I only had more moderate powderiness with shades like Dawn and Destiny, whereas I didn’t have a lot of excess product kicked up just patting my brush into deeper shades like Axis or Rowdy. With the exception of the ones I noted above, the majority were soft but a light touch was fine with the brushes I used (a mixture of flat, domed-shape eyeshadow brushes and tapered crease brushes) and were consistent with the softness of Modern Renaissance.

The eyeshadows were quite pigmented so not much was needed (a tap will do you!), so my lack of swirling might have naturally minimized the potential downside, but after hearing concerns from others about powderiness, I went back and used a fluffy blending brush (Hakuhodo J5523) through all of them and saw an excessive amount of powder kicked up with Dawn and Destiny and only a small amount with the other mattes (none with Adorn nor Electric, and my Cube needs to be scraped off). The more surprising part was I felt like there wasn’t much fallout during application, as the eyeshadows adhered quite well to the skin (perhaps, in a way, too well, since blending was sometimes an issue).

01/02

Anastasia Cube Eyeshadow
Anastasia Cube Eyeshadow
Anastasia Cube Eyeshadow
Anastasia Cube Eyeshadow
Anastasia Cube Eyeshadow
Anastasia Cube Eyeshadow

Cube

Cube is a pale white with a pink-to-lavender shift in the form of fine pearl. It had semi-sheer coverage with a more powdery base that seemed prone to applying unevenly if I attempted to use it damp–I had to pack it on and then buff it out in order to get a decently even application. The pan itself showed signs of hardening after being used with a dampened brush, but when I attempted to pick up product and then dampen the brush, the powder seemed to ball up. I tried working with it dry initially, and it was just so powdery and sheer that any attempt I made to layer it over something (to give it shift) made the underlying product appear chalky and when I attempted to apply it as a brow bone highlighter, it was just random bits of sheen with no continuity. Edit on 8/5/17: This one seems to get even worse with sustained use and significantly hardens, regardless of using it dry or not, and it has only gotten harder to apply.

Formula Overview

$12.00/0.06 oz. - $200.00 Per Ounce

Anastasia Eyeshadow is supposed to be a “finely-milled, highly-pigmented” powder eyeshadow. There are several different finishes, and the performance can be better or worse depending on the finish, though it also ranges from shade to shade. On average, the formula is semi-opaque to opaque, lightly dusty to buttery, wears seven to nine hours, and is fairly blendable. The Metallic and Titanium finishes seem to be the best-performing to me, but there are some really standout mattes and shimmers as well. I have not tried the sparkle, satin, or velvet finishes as extensively as the other finishes, personally.

Browse all of our Anastasia Eyeshadow swatches.

01/02

Anastasia Dawn Eyeshadow
Anastasia Dawn Eyeshadow
Anastasia Dawn Eyeshadow
Anastasia Dawn Eyeshadow
Anastasia Dawn Eyeshadow
Anastasia Dawn Eyeshadow

Dawn

Dawn is a medium peach with warm, orange undertones and a matte finish. It had opaque color coverage in a single layer, while the texture was smooth, velvety, and more substantial than the average matte. The biggest issue I had was this shade kicked up an excessive amount of powder–even when I used my softest (blue squirrel) brushes and a very light touch. I was quite surprised that it didn’t have a ton of fallout during application, though… just a mess in the pan (which is can be wasted product). The eyeshadow applied well and blended out with ease. The color wore well for eight hours on me.

Formula Overview

$12.00/0.06 oz. - $200.00 Per Ounce

Anastasia Eyeshadow is supposed to be a “finely-milled, highly-pigmented” powder eyeshadow. There are several different finishes, and the performance can be better or worse depending on the finish, though it also ranges from shade to shade. On average, the formula is semi-opaque to opaque, lightly dusty to buttery, wears seven to nine hours, and is fairly blendable. The Metallic and Titanium finishes seem to be the best-performing to me, but there are some really standout mattes and shimmers as well. I have not tried the sparkle, satin, or velvet finishes as extensively as the other finishes, personally.

Browse all of our Anastasia Eyeshadow swatches.

01/02

Anastasia Destiny Eyeshadow
Anastasia Destiny Eyeshadow
Anastasia Destiny Eyeshadow
Anastasia Destiny Eyeshadow
Anastasia Destiny Eyeshadow
Anastasia Destiny Eyeshadow

Destiny

Destiny is a muted, medium-dark olive green with warm undertones and a matte finish. It had excellent pigmentation with a soft, smooth consistency with moderate excess product kicked up in the pan. It did not apply as evenly as I expected, as it seemed to darken in places and fade in others, so despite being fairly pigmented, I felt like a second layer was always needed to even the color back out. The eyeshadow started to look a bit patchy one after seven hours of wear.

Formula Overview

$12.00/0.06 oz. - $200.00 Per Ounce

Anastasia Eyeshadow is supposed to be a “finely-milled, highly-pigmented” powder eyeshadow. There are several different finishes, and the performance can be better or worse depending on the finish, though it also ranges from shade to shade. On average, the formula is semi-opaque to opaque, lightly dusty to buttery, wears seven to nine hours, and is fairly blendable. The Metallic and Titanium finishes seem to be the best-performing to me, but there are some really standout mattes and shimmers as well. I have not tried the sparkle, satin, or velvet finishes as extensively as the other finishes, personally.

Browse all of our Anastasia Eyeshadow swatches.

01/02

Anastasia Adorn Eyeshadow
Anastasia Adorn Eyeshadow
Anastasia Adorn Eyeshadow
Anastasia Adorn Eyeshadow
Anastasia Adorn Eyeshadow
Anastasia Adorn Eyeshadow

Adorn

Adorn is a rich, coppery brown with warm undertones and a metallic sheen. The consistency was moderately dense with a very smooth, cream-like feel in the pan. It had opaque pigmentation that applied evenly to the skin, but I would recommend using a flat, synthetic brush for maximum coverage was a fluffier brush (like a MAC 239) seemed to gobble up some of the shimmer and made it appear less metallic on the lid. It wore well for eight hours on me before creasing faintly.

Formula Overview

$12.00/0.06 oz. - $200.00 Per Ounce

Anastasia Eyeshadow is supposed to be a “finely-milled, highly-pigmented” powder eyeshadow. There are several different finishes, and the performance can be better or worse depending on the finish, though it also ranges from shade to shade. On average, the formula is semi-opaque to opaque, lightly dusty to buttery, wears seven to nine hours, and is fairly blendable. The Metallic and Titanium finishes seem to be the best-performing to me, but there are some really standout mattes and shimmers as well. I have not tried the sparkle, satin, or velvet finishes as extensively as the other finishes, personally.

Browse all of our Anastasia Eyeshadow swatches.

01/02

Anastasia All Star Eyeshadow
Anastasia All Star Eyeshadow
Anastasia All Star Eyeshadow
Anastasia All Star Eyeshadow
Anastasia All Star Eyeshadow
Anastasia All Star Eyeshadow

All Star

All Star is a deep, reddish plum with subtle, warm undertones and a matte finish. It had opaque pigmentation in a single layer with a velvety, soft texture with a smidgen of powderiness in the pan. I felt like a little went a long way, but this was a shade that applied well to the lid on its own but did not layer as well with some of the lighter shades, which seemed to wash it out. I could blend it with the other shades, though, and this was a shade that seemed to accentuate the lighter base of some of the lighter shades in the palette (like Roxy). It lasted fairly well for eight hours but noticed that it had darkened in the crease line (it didn’t seem creased… just like someone had wet the eyeshadow right there–darker).

Formula Overview

$12.00/0.06 oz. - $200.00 Per Ounce

Anastasia Eyeshadow is supposed to be a “finely-milled, highly-pigmented” powder eyeshadow. There are several different finishes, and the performance can be better or worse depending on the finish, though it also ranges from shade to shade. On average, the formula is semi-opaque to opaque, lightly dusty to buttery, wears seven to nine hours, and is fairly blendable. The Metallic and Titanium finishes seem to be the best-performing to me, but there are some really standout mattes and shimmers as well. I have not tried the sparkle, satin, or velvet finishes as extensively as the other finishes, personally.

Browse all of our Anastasia Eyeshadow swatches.

01/02

Anastasia Mercury Eyeshadow
Anastasia Mercury Eyeshadow
Anastasia Mercury Eyeshadow
Anastasia Mercury Eyeshadow
Anastasia Mercury Eyeshadow
Anastasia Mercury Eyeshadow

Mercury

Mercury is a muted, medium-dark taupe with neutral-to-warm undertones and a matte finish. The consistency was soft, somewhat dusty in the pan, and fairly blendable on the lid, but it had a tendency to darken unevenly when initially applied (even over primer) so that a second layer was needed to even it back out. It had opaque pigmentation, though, and wore well for seven and a half hours before darkening in places, which made it look a little patchy.

Formula Overview

$12.00/0.06 oz. - $200.00 Per Ounce

Anastasia Eyeshadow is supposed to be a “finely-milled, highly-pigmented” powder eyeshadow. There are several different finishes, and the performance can be better or worse depending on the finish, though it also ranges from shade to shade. On average, the formula is semi-opaque to opaque, lightly dusty to buttery, wears seven to nine hours, and is fairly blendable. The Metallic and Titanium finishes seem to be the best-performing to me, but there are some really standout mattes and shimmers as well. I have not tried the sparkle, satin, or velvet finishes as extensively as the other finishes, personally.

Browse all of our Anastasia Eyeshadow swatches.

01/02

Anastasia Axis Eyeshadow
Anastasia Axis Eyeshadow
Anastasia Axis Eyeshadow
Anastasia Axis Eyeshadow
Anastasia Axis Eyeshadow
Anastasia Axis Eyeshadow

Axis

Axis is a deep, bluish teal with cool undertones and a matte finish. It was intensely pigmented with a smooth, velvety texture that was just a little dusty but was a lot less powdery compared to some of the worst offenders in the palette. When applied carefully with a very small amount of product (a little went a long way), I had no trouble diffusing and blending, but if I accidentally applied too much, it was unforgiving. It lasted for seven and a half hours before becoming patchy.

Formula Overview

$12.00/0.06 oz. - $200.00 Per Ounce

Anastasia Eyeshadow is supposed to be a “finely-milled, highly-pigmented” powder eyeshadow. There are several different finishes, and the performance can be better or worse depending on the finish, though it also ranges from shade to shade. On average, the formula is semi-opaque to opaque, lightly dusty to buttery, wears seven to nine hours, and is fairly blendable. The Metallic and Titanium finishes seem to be the best-performing to me, but there are some really standout mattes and shimmers as well. I have not tried the sparkle, satin, or velvet finishes as extensively as the other finishes, personally.

Browse all of our Anastasia Eyeshadow swatches.

01/02

Anastasia Roxy Eyeshadow
Anastasia Roxy Eyeshadow
Anastasia Roxy Eyeshadow
Anastasia Roxy Eyeshadow
Anastasia Roxy Eyeshadow
Anastasia Roxy Eyeshadow

Roxy

Roxy is a brighter, medium orange with warm undertones and a matte finish. The eyeshadow had opaque color payoff with a smooth, finely-milled texture that was slightly powdery in the pan. I had barely any fallout when I used this shade, and I used it both packed on the lid and more diffused above the crease. The color applied exceptionally well to bare skin as it went on evenly and was easy to blend out. I noticed that when I attempted to use this particular shade with either All Star or Rowdy, it turned into a pale pink-peach and lost all of its vibrancy. This shade wore well for eight hours on me.

Formula Overview

$12.00/0.06 oz. - $200.00 Per Ounce

Anastasia Eyeshadow is supposed to be a “finely-milled, highly-pigmented” powder eyeshadow. There are several different finishes, and the performance can be better or worse depending on the finish, though it also ranges from shade to shade. On average, the formula is semi-opaque to opaque, lightly dusty to buttery, wears seven to nine hours, and is fairly blendable. The Metallic and Titanium finishes seem to be the best-performing to me, but there are some really standout mattes and shimmers as well. I have not tried the sparkle, satin, or velvet finishes as extensively as the other finishes, personally.

Browse all of our Anastasia Eyeshadow swatches.

01/02

Anastasia Electric Eyeshadow
Anastasia Electric Eyeshadow
Anastasia Electric Eyeshadow
Anastasia Electric Eyeshadow
Anastasia Electric Eyeshadow
Anastasia Electric Eyeshadow

Electric

Electric is a light gold with subtle, warm undertones and a gold-to-green shift that was quite subtle. The texture was chunkier as it seemed to have a few bits of larger sparkle in it, which resulted in semi-sheer coverage that did not build up well. This was easier to use than Cube, as it did not have a powdery base, but it was still a lot more challenging than I would have expected from a brand that has done so many shimmery eyeshadows well. It stayed on for eight hours before fading noticeably.

Formula Overview

$12.00/0.06 oz. - $200.00 Per Ounce

Anastasia Eyeshadow is supposed to be a “finely-milled, highly-pigmented” powder eyeshadow. There are several different finishes, and the performance can be better or worse depending on the finish, though it also ranges from shade to shade. On average, the formula is semi-opaque to opaque, lightly dusty to buttery, wears seven to nine hours, and is fairly blendable. The Metallic and Titanium finishes seem to be the best-performing to me, but there are some really standout mattes and shimmers as well. I have not tried the sparkle, satin, or velvet finishes as extensively as the other finishes, personally.

Browse all of our Anastasia Eyeshadow swatches.

01/02

Anastasia Fudge Eyeshadow
Anastasia Fudge Eyeshadow
Anastasia Fudge Eyeshadow
Anastasia Fudge Eyeshadow
Anastasia Fudge Eyeshadow
Anastasia Fudge Eyeshadow

Fudge

Fudge is a deep brown with warm undertones and a matte finish. It was richly pigmented with a smooth, velvety, and substantial matte finish that had some powderiness in the pan but did not present fallout concerns during application. This shade is available as a permanent single, and I found the iteration in the palette to be harder to diffuse and blend out. I actually used a touch of this in my initial look, where I didn’t notice any difficulties using it (where I used it on the outer lid in a smaller area), but when I attempted to use it in the crease the next day with a combo of Edge, New Wave, and Roxy (which had all blended nicely together) on the lid, I could not get Fudge to diffuse and blend into those lighter shades; it looked like a cut crease. I was, however, able to diffuse the edge of Fudge above the crease, where there was no eyeshadow yet. I did not have this problem with the single version of Fudge, which was also slightly darker and less warm-toned in comparison (they felt completely different). The eyeshadow wore well for eight hours on me.

Formula Overview

$12.00/0.06 oz. - $200.00 Per Ounce

Anastasia Eyeshadow is supposed to be a “finely-milled, highly-pigmented” powder eyeshadow. There are several different finishes, and the performance can be better or worse depending on the finish, though it also ranges from shade to shade. On average, the formula is semi-opaque to opaque, lightly dusty to buttery, wears seven to nine hours, and is fairly blendable. The Metallic and Titanium finishes seem to be the best-performing to me, but there are some really standout mattes and shimmers as well. I have not tried the sparkle, satin, or velvet finishes as extensively as the other finishes, personally.

Browse all of our Anastasia Eyeshadow swatches.

01/02

Anastasia New Wave Eyeshadow
Anastasia New Wave Eyeshadow
Anastasia New Wave Eyeshadow
Anastasia New Wave Eyeshadow
Anastasia New Wave Eyeshadow
Anastasia New Wave Eyeshadow

New Wave

New Wave is a muted, light-medium orange with warm, yellow undertones and a matte finish. The eyeshadow had fantastic color payoff with a soft, smooth texture that was just a touch on the powdery side but was blendable and easy to work with on the lid/crease. I used it on the lid as well as above the crease and blended with other shades without issue. It wore well for eight hours before fading on me.

Formula Overview

$12.00/0.06 oz. - $200.00 Per Ounce

Anastasia Eyeshadow is supposed to be a “finely-milled, highly-pigmented” powder eyeshadow. There are several different finishes, and the performance can be better or worse depending on the finish, though it also ranges from shade to shade. On average, the formula is semi-opaque to opaque, lightly dusty to buttery, wears seven to nine hours, and is fairly blendable. The Metallic and Titanium finishes seem to be the best-performing to me, but there are some really standout mattes and shimmers as well. I have not tried the sparkle, satin, or velvet finishes as extensively as the other finishes, personally.

Browse all of our Anastasia Eyeshadow swatches.

01/02

Anastasia Untamed Eyeshadow
Anastasia Untamed Eyeshadow
Anastasia Untamed Eyeshadow
Anastasia Untamed Eyeshadow
Anastasia Untamed Eyeshadow
Anastasia Untamed Eyeshadow

Untamed

Untamed is a muted, medium-dark green with neutral undertones and a matte finish. It had good color payoff but was not quite as opaque as other shades in the palette. The eyeshadow had a slightly thinner texture, too, and it seemed more prone to applying unevenly as some areas were darker than others, which made blending more difficult. The texture was soft to the touch and just slightly powdery in the pan. It lasted for just over seven hours on me before it looked patchy.

Formula Overview

$12.00/0.06 oz. - $200.00 Per Ounce

Anastasia Eyeshadow is supposed to be a “finely-milled, highly-pigmented” powder eyeshadow. There are several different finishes, and the performance can be better or worse depending on the finish, though it also ranges from shade to shade. On average, the formula is semi-opaque to opaque, lightly dusty to buttery, wears seven to nine hours, and is fairly blendable. The Metallic and Titanium finishes seem to be the best-performing to me, but there are some really standout mattes and shimmers as well. I have not tried the sparkle, satin, or velvet finishes as extensively as the other finishes, personally.

Browse all of our Anastasia Eyeshadow swatches.

01/02

Anastasia Edge Eyeshadow
Anastasia Edge Eyeshadow
Anastasia Edge Eyeshadow
Anastasia Edge Eyeshadow
Anastasia Edge Eyeshadow
Anastasia Edge Eyeshadow

Edge

Edge is a bright, medium-dark yellow with strong, warm undertones and a matte finish. The pigmentation was opaque, while the eyeshadow had a smooth, velvety consistency that was slightly denser and as a result, adhered quite well to bare skin. There was a slight excess amount of product that kicked up in the pan but did not have fallout during application for me. I didn’t have any issues blending this shade out, and it wore well for eight hours on me.

Formula Overview

$12.00/0.06 oz. - $200.00 Per Ounce

Anastasia Eyeshadow is supposed to be a “finely-milled, highly-pigmented” powder eyeshadow. There are several different finishes, and the performance can be better or worse depending on the finish, though it also ranges from shade to shade. On average, the formula is semi-opaque to opaque, lightly dusty to buttery, wears seven to nine hours, and is fairly blendable. The Metallic and Titanium finishes seem to be the best-performing to me, but there are some really standout mattes and shimmers as well. I have not tried the sparkle, satin, or velvet finishes as extensively as the other finishes, personally.

Browse all of our Anastasia Eyeshadow swatches.

01/02

Anastasia Rowdy Eyeshadow
Anastasia Rowdy Eyeshadow
Anastasia Rowdy Eyeshadow
Anastasia Rowdy Eyeshadow
Anastasia Rowdy Eyeshadow
Anastasia Rowdy Eyeshadow

Rowdy

Rowdy is a deep burgundy with subtle, warm undertones and a matte finish. It had intense, opaque pigmentation that applied evenly when I was not attempting to diffuse and layer it over something else–so the bare lid or just-primed lid. When I tried to use it to darken and layer over another eyeshadow (Roxy), it sheered out and would not really darken by much. On its own, it was fairly blendable with little fallout when I used just a dab of product (not even a full pat), though there was slight powderiness in the pan itself after use. This shade lasted for seven and a half hours on me before it looked a bit patchy.

Formula Overview

$12.00/0.06 oz. - $200.00 Per Ounce

Anastasia Eyeshadow is supposed to be a “finely-milled, highly-pigmented” powder eyeshadow. There are several different finishes, and the performance can be better or worse depending on the finish, though it also ranges from shade to shade. On average, the formula is semi-opaque to opaque, lightly dusty to buttery, wears seven to nine hours, and is fairly blendable. The Metallic and Titanium finishes seem to be the best-performing to me, but there are some really standout mattes and shimmers as well. I have not tried the sparkle, satin, or velvet finishes as extensively as the other finishes, personally.

Browse all of our Anastasia Eyeshadow swatches.

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Product Availability

Anastasia Eyeshadow Palette $45.00/0.28 OZ.
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About the Reviewer

Christine has normal-to-dry skin with areas of dryness (cheeks, nose, and under the eyes). She has a light-medium skintone with subtle, warmer yellow undertones. Her best foundation matches include: Tarte Rainforest of the Sea in Light-Medium Neutral (best match), Estee Lauder Double Wear Stay-in-Place Makeup in Desert Beige 2N1, Giorgio Armani Maestro Glow in 4.0, Hourglass Warm Ivory Vanish Seamless Finish, Laura Mercier Candleglow Soft Luminous in Dusk, MAC NC20/NC25, Make Up For Ever Ultra HD Liquid in Y305 (140). (For more information, please check the FAQ.)

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217 Comments

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Thank you for your review. I feel like your palette is better than mine! My palette would be a C- or a D frankly. I tried different brushes and application techniques as well. That said, I LOVE the green eye look you created with it!!! Did you have an issues with Axis staining? My Axis stained terribly and took a ton of waterproof remover (and sadly rubbing) to get the stain off!

No. Just no.

Sorry that happened to you. Scary when that kind of staining happens, especially around the eyes! I can’t remember an eyeshadow doing that before, lips yes, but eyes no. So many reasons that is just not good.

It seems like ABH tried so hard to make this palette pigmented and soft but went completely too far down that side of the spectrum. It’s disappointing and surprising.

I’m not surprised with Axis staining they pigment used for navy and deep teals are pretty intense.

If you can find a makeup remover that uses Isopropyl Myristate that will remove all stains (ALL stains) from makeup and body paint.

I agree with Indya about using a cleansing oil/balm to take off makeup. Total game changer for me, just sayin. I have a feeling i’d get this to open it and have my mind go completely blank at an eye look. Disappointed in the F grade on one shadow. Mod Ren was so awesome. It sounds like a quality control issue or batch problems as others have mentioned. I’d like to swatch in person I just hate going to the mall to do so! Christine’s swatches are the best i’ve seen and I LOVE LOVE LOVE that dark green eye look so much. I would never think to do that. Unfortunately unless it’s real obvious, I have a hard time coming up with eye looks lately. My makeup mojo went away.

You can get your mojo back, don’t worry. I remember a fun video on emilynoel83’s channel: SINGLES CRUISE: Use That Stash!

I did the same game and it helped me get my mojo back when I was bored last summer. Being forced to use randomly selected singles helped me try color combinations I would never have thought of. It was challenging but fun and got my creativity going again. Maybe check it out. 🙂

Christine, thank you for getting such a thorough review up so quickly!

I really love the color scheme. I’m a bit concerned about the blending issues, but you still managed to get several gorgeous looks out of it. I’ll think I’ll try to swatch it in the store first, but I’m leaning toward buying it.

The proof is really in the application – they seemed to swatch really well, felt smooth and velvety, and even the first look I did went totally fine (and I wore it on both eyes, since I was swatching all of the ABH lipsticks at the same time) and felt excited to try the palette the next day. However, THAT was when I encountered more issues!

Rachel, if you like the colors in Subculture, my rec is to check out the Jeffree Star Androgyny palette, as 6-8 of the colors are very similar. The Androgyny palette is far superior, some of the best mattes I ever own, right up there with the mattes from KVD MetalMatte– very pigmented, easy to work with, and long lasting.

Androgyny is also easily dupable (and therefore subculture too) with MUG shadows (Excepting the red [Sub: Allstar, Andro: Fetish]) I have actually got the duped out palette in my collection. I have bought Subculture though as a collector as Modern Renaissance’s sister. Hoping I get one of the good ones. Inconsistencies are a worry!

Hannah, what are your MUG dupes for the Androgyny palette, if you’d be willing to share? I love a few shades in the palette but I’m not sure I want to shell out for the whole thing when I know there are a few shades I’ll never touch, so I’d be very interested in duping the shades I love with MUG singles!

Hi Christine. I’ve been reading your blog for years and consider your reviews the gold standard. I’ve been interested in all the discussion surrounding Subculture as I am such a huge fan of Modern Renaissance. Anyway, just wanted to take a moment to tell you how impressed I am by how responsive you are in the comments section! It’s something I noticed years ago, but could not have imagined you could keep up all these years later as your website grew. You dedication to your work is so above and beyond. XOXOXO

I was planning on buying this when it launched at Sephora on Tuesday!
I think I’m going to skip it for now, wait until I can see it for myself in stores! Thanks so much for the review, I’m disappointed with how things are turning out with this palette as I had very high hopes!

Wow, what an interesting result. Especially since the ABH eyeshadows usually do so well. It will also be interesting to see all the YouTube “influencers” rave over something that may not be that great. Thanks for the super detailed and informative review, Christine!

Oh, 😳 wow. So many thoughts. First of all, an absolutely incredible review, Christine. No one is going to post the app aspects (mostly bummers, lol) with detailed intricacy that you did. This must have been arduous. Well, if YOU have the issues you stated, I can see this palette being a complete nightmare for many. I was surprised by how dupable it is. I eventually fell for the muted, drabbed down tones, and thought I might spring. Nah, don’t really have the patience, time, or skill level. As to a good takeaway, there are a few CP dupes to pick up. Between the WL palettes (come on, muse, do your 241 on Viseart again!) and WL singles, got this completely covered, with far less frustration in app. This is getting me to rethink my abh cooler shades eighter project! Thank you so much for putting this at the top of your pipeline.

There was definitely trial and error! The first look was a breeze, so it was a real surprise when it wasn’t like that every time afterward!

I was wondering the same thing, what does WL mean?

Totally agree with everything you said. Woah 😳 I wasn’t expecting it to be so problematic. I’ll be saving my money too. Thank you Christine this review was extra stupendous even for you and that’s saying something!

Thanks Christina for these review. When do you sleep women!!! I purchased and received my palate yesterday but unfortunately will be returning. I can not and will not keep a palette that doesn’t perform consistently when you need to use it. Who has time to scratch an eye look and start again!! Ewww…not I. Awesome and Amazing job again!!

Christine I have read and watched many reviews and choose not keep. I really really enjoy bold colors!!! I would consider myself to have intermediate level experience. If the elite are having difficulties I can only imagine what lies ahead for me.🤔😑

Thanks for your review. I’m a little concerned that so many shades you had problems with. I am surprised that that the palette still ended up with a B rating despite alllll of your issues. You use eyeshadows everyday, I can’t imagine the beginner or intermediate person would be able to use these well.

Most were really pigmented and had decent wear, so that helped keep the palette afloat, and shades like Adorn, Roxy, New Wave, and Edge worked pretty well for me across the board (Roxy did not play well with All Star in particular but wasn’t a problem child for me elsewhere).

It is funny – it was really imperative to try all shades (at least for application) – as the first look I did, I was happy and excited to use the palette’s darker shades, and it would have been a way different review if I hadn’t worn it again!

Hi, I have a question about how you scored this. I don’t know exactly how you calculate the score, but it looks like the quantitative metrics are divided into five categories: Product, Pigmentation, Texture, Longevity, and Application. There is also a “Total” line. You gave Longevity, Texture, and Product all 8’s, Pigmentation a 9.5, and Application a 4 — but if you look at the bars directly above those numbers, the Application value looks like all the other 8s. This would explain why the total percentage would be 83%, which is what is shown on the site: (84 + 9.5)/50 = 0.83 (giving it a grade of a B). But if you go off of the stated values, the calculation becomes (83 + 3.5 + 9.5) = 0.74, or a C. Can you point out where I went wrong? Does it take into account something I’m not seeing?

Thanks!

Hi Alex,

I have a detailed Review FAQ linked in the footer of every page that goes through the Glossover: http://www.temptalia.com/review-faq/#glossover

Since application is out of 5 possible, 4/5 = 80%, so it would have a similar fill to 8/10. Product, Pigmentation, Texture, and Longevity are out of 10. There is a maximum of 45 points possible for color cosmetics.

That makes perfect sense. I figured there was a description of your rating system but didn’t see the FAQ at the bottom. Thanks for the response. Also, I apologize for mis-stating the Application score that is indeed 4 and not 3.5. I must have scrolled up to double check the numbers and seen a 3.5 on an individual shadow color.

Reading through the FAQ, this also answers a tangential, follow-up question I had: It seemed like you were not thrilled by the performance of the product, yet based on the rating system, it still came out with a pretty high grade. I was going to ask how you dealt with products you review that have characteristics that are noteworthy (either good or bad), but do not fit in the criteria you defined. From the Review FAQ it looks like the “Temptalia Recommends” products address this, at least with the “noteworthy good” cases.

Thanks for the thorough explanation!

No problem, Alex! 🙂 If someone is not familiar with the Glossover, I can see why someone would think it should be 4/10.

I usually try to be particularly thorough or descriptive (like in this review) of any larger issues throughout the palette if it’s not immediately obvious from the individual reviews/ratings. Sometimes I might explicitly state as much (“I felt like this was better than it ended up rating”) but try to explain with words what I experienced. Usually, the ratings/review are more consistent than not, but sometimes with palettes, the way everything averages out can be a little surprise compared to any gut feeling about what the rating is. It is also difficult for larger palettes (or sets) to get an A but also hard to get a full on F without almost everything being an F/D- rating.

I think where it can happen in particular is when a brand is like +24 hour wear, and it’s 12 hour wear -> 5/10, which drags down scores a lot – so I will try to make it clear that the stupid claim is resulting in lower than expected scores (I imagine most people are not particularly bothered if a lipstick lasted 12 hours but not a full 16 or 24 as promised).

Great, thorough, helpful review! I was starting to talk myself into buying this palette, but I changed my mind after reading about the blending problems. I struggle a bit with blending easily blendable eyeshadows, so this sounds too challenging for me. But you did get some gorgeous looks, Christine!

Your difficulties with this palette don’t make it a deal breaker for me as my ideas for using it mostly involved using the colors with singles I already own (though I see some combos I’d like to try). The color I was never really interested in was Cube (I don’t have much use for shades like that), so that worked out. Lastly, I have surprisingly few dupes — definitely no close ones other than the bright yellow, and any other similarities to colors I own aren’t even remotely close (which is weird since I seriously thought I had “all the colors” by now).

I can see it working better in pieces than together – I might play around with it later today and pair it with MR to see how it works out of curiosity.

I normally just apply once per eye – I have to get going sooo early and stay up late to get two rounds of testing in (unless the first set fades within six hours, then easy). My eyes are most sensitive so I don’t usually do it unless it’s some critical product that really can’t wait another 24 hours.

Alissa Ashley and Donovan Gibb did a tutorial on the palette and both said the shadows didn’t blend well. Alissa redid her look 3 times and finally gave up. I had high hopes for this and planned on purchasing tomorrow, but I think I’m going to wait. I already have the Makeup By Mario and the MR so not too pressed.

I am a little disappointed because ABH shadows are so amazing – hopefully this palette is just a one-off.

I am loving the color selection though…

Aw, I didn’t see anything amiss with your comment! You can always let me know if you missed something, though, or had a typo – I get that frequently: a reply that asks me to edit something in the original comment and then I’ll edit for you and delete your request to edit!

It does seem like they used a different formula here so hopefully, they’ll use customer feedback and revisit it should they make it again. They must have felt pretty confident in it, though, since the palette is permanent!

I agree – I think possibly they were so excited about the color selection maybe the formula was overlooked. Either way I love ABH – I also appreciate your honestly in reviewing new products. I always check here first before I purchase anything makeup-related.

Exactly!! I’m hoping the PR and first launch palettes were the only defective ones. I ordered it today – if I don’t like it I’ll return it to Ulta – I was really excited about it. Hopefully mine is okay.

Hi Christine! How would you compare this to the vise art dark mattes palette? I have that one and ordered subculture off the site, but now may have to return it…if I have the dark mattes do I really need this one?

Well, the formulas between ABH and Viseart have similar claims, and the Dark Matte palette received an A- 🙂

I think, though, that if you find a good dark teal (Axis), coral (Roxy), and deep burgundy/plum (Rowdy), you can easily recreate similar looks using those singles and Dark Mattes.

I agree with you Christine – the only reason I even entertained buying this palette were the couple of metallics that looked interesting. But since those didn’t perform well and since I have the Viseart Dark Matte palette, I won’t take the plunge. I’ll look for some singles to fill the gap. Plus I just bought a couple of Pat McGrath lippies so I should probably save my coins anyway 🙂

Good call, Alicia!

Nevertheless, Subculture is permanent, so it can be had at any point – perhaps more reviews and/or demos will come out that will make it easier to decide one way or the other!

Having just read what you said about a good teal, coral and deep burgundy; I’m hoping that my owning MAC Plumage, Free To Be and Deep Damson (also, Shadowy Lady?) may be enough along with getting the Viseart DM Palette?

Shadowy Lady or Deep Damson would certainly work – I think Shadowy Lady might be a little closer (less warm) but Deep Damson is certainly close enough in the type of color/function and easier to work with.

With all the Viseart palettes I own, I will just pass on this one. I wasn’t too wowed the first time I saw it and with all the issues you’ve mentioned, it’s just not worth it.

As interesting as I find the colors in this palette, it sounds awfully high-maintenance. Looks like I’ll save my money and hope that something comes along and wows me in the holiday releases.

High maintenance is exactly the phrase that came to me too. If the testing required multiple attempts with the pressures of time and commute, I don’t even want to think how annoying it would be on the morning clock to get out the door.

My goodness, Christine! The amount of work that this palette created, seemed so much more disconcerting. Thank you for all your detail and undertaking. Now I’m debating the palette even more. I could always buy it and if it is too difficult or I’m not as patient or talented to work with it, I can return it. Thank you again.

No problem, Elizabeth! My advice is really to go slowly and use less product than you’ve ever used before – especially with deep shades – and I think it will be easier (not foolproof) to start.

Thank you for such a quick review! Everything you have rated a B or over has always worked out for me (except most of the naked palettes). So I am still excited for mine (still on the way). I will certainly be taking your tips to heart and using them!

Instead of Subculture, I think maybe this should be called SubPar???? OMG, I’m exhausted just reading your many attempts to make this super fussy palette work! I’ve been seeing so many mixed reviews, and some truly horrible ones ( super dusty, no pigment, pigment separates into 2 colors) there must be a QC issue with this palette. If you like these colors, my rec is to check out the Jeffree Star Androgyny palette, as 6-8 of the shades are similar or same color family, and the JS mattes are as good any of the mattes in KVD MetalMatte.

I agree to using the Jeffrey Starr Androgyny palette in Subculture’s place. There are so many similar colors in that palette and they blend like a dream, I’ve never had any issues with patchiness or blendability. With all the work required of Subculture and having the Androgyny palette, it’s an easy pass for me. Thanks for the excellent and thorough review Christine! I admit I bought into the hype of this palette, but after the difficulties that you the pro had and other trusted YouTubers, it’s a no for me.

Oh so glad to see another fan of JS Androgyny! That palette got 1/10 the hype of Subculture, but it’s 10x superior, some of the best matte shadows ever, in unique colors too. I have to thank reader Michele for recommending Androgyny to me a while back. But I would love to see Jeffree Star do a comparison of the 2 palettes, and if he gets a dud one from ABH, it should be quite entertaining, as he isn’t known for holding back 😉

There’s a YT video by Alissa Ashley showing how much trouble this gave her. Of course, the makeup police on Twitter immediately set to telling this girls she is wrong, wrong, wrong.

Now your review where you also experienced issues. I think I’ll wait till I see it in store and save my receipt!

I saw her video! I had a much better time of it than she did overall, but I did experience some of the weird blending issues she did. She’s done beautiful looks in the past, and it’s powder eyeshadow, something most of us know how to use at least decently.

Thank you for the incredibly detailed review. I especially like the green eye looks you created. I plan to be brave and buy this when it shows up in-store at Ulta.

And I have a very unusual, totally out of left field, comparison for this palette: Vincent van Gogh’s painting “The Night Cafe.” Not only are the color selections eerily similar, but it’s another “love it or hate it” thing, and a bit disorienting at first glance. Strange!

I really can see why some see the palette’s scheme and recoil but can see why others are pulled in by it! I wish it was easier to work with, though, so more could enjoy it. Let us know how it works for you, Susan!

This is an impressively thorough review – thank you! I think given your review it’s something I have to actually try and work with to determine if the inconsistency is manageable for me. I love the colour palette so I will pick it up eventually.

Axis is my favorite. Most of these shades are not things I’d wear normally but some of them are nice. It’s a skip for me though. I can see the hype. It’s fall like but not too “fall”, I’m sure it will sell like hotcakes.

First of all, I have got to give you enormous credit and kudos for doing literally all you could to get this palette to work. You gave this your all, unfortunately it gave you many a problem with its lack of blending ability and turning oddly patchy hours after being on. Likely, sore eyelids as well, I’m guessing. Thank you so much for your consummate professionalism and determination! This is why we love you and your site, Christine.

As for whether or not I would bother with such a beautiful, yet rather troublesome palette, I’m not 100% sure. Probably not. I do own some good dupes for at least half of this palette. I think I would much rather invest in the Viseart Dark Mattes Palette instead in order to have all these very deep, rich shades in one neat spot.

Having the viseart dark matte I think you can achieve the same kind of looks than with this palette (add a mosterd and peach/orange shade). I absolutely love it!

Despite all of your troubles blending the eye looks you created are beautiful! They make me WANT the palette but I know I won’t have the patience to try that hard with blending. Your review cemented my decision to not buy this palette.

Great review of a finicky palette! I used it today for the first time, and everything came out ok for me — but these shades definitely don’t blend and layer with the same ease as Modern Renaissance, so I can see a lot of people being disappointed at that. The application on this palette reminded me somewhat of KVD Pastel Goth, where I had to actually pick up two colors on my brush at once to help them blend.

It’s weird, though — it’s almost like Cube and Electric had hard pan for me out of the gate, which is so opposite the experience of Mariah Leonard (per her Twitter), and also very unlike Adorn and the MR shimmers. They’re definitely shades I’ll be patting on with my fingertips, rather than attempting a brush.

Overall, I like the color scheme and more graphic eye looks, so it’s a keeper for me. But I’m kind of baffled as to why they tinkered with such a well-loved formula, tbh, and hope they address it.

What shades did you use, Elizabeth? I’m glad that you were able to use it without too much work 🙂

I can see Cube getting hard pan if you use fingers a lot with it since seems to have a strong powder base (vs. Adorn).

I used Roxy, New Wave, and Dawn blended out in the crease, All Star all over the lid, Cube packed on the inner corner, Electric patted on the center lid, and Rowdy as liner. I want to play with Edge and Axis next…on a morning when I have plenty of time to adjust course if needed!

This is a brilliant review Christine and the looks your created are gorgeous 😍.

I was considering this palette but started to search my stash for similar shadows… Your review confirm that I have dupes or close enough shades for almost all the colours I like the most. I’d have to mix and match a lot of palettes but considering the blending issues you pointed that it is definitely useless for me to get it.

Money saved! 😉 hehe

This is definitely a product where swatches DON’T tell the whole story! Just from the swatches alone, it looks great. I was super excited and planning to get it because I have very few shades like these and I love the ABH Modern Renaissance palette formula so, so, so much. I’ll definitely wait until they get in stores and play with it a bit for myself, see if the uneven formula will be a dealbreaker for me personally. It’s just such a unique shade range!

I was looking forward to getting this although not into oranges and yellows. I like the blue greens but most likely too dark for my everyday look.

Sounds inconsistent I’m leaning towards not getting it. Thanks for the very timely review!

OMG, the colors are muddy on me, and it was just so patchy. I tried a warmer look and a cool one and have nothing good to say. I’m going to return it.

First of all, thanks for the very thorough review. I would traditionally avoid products like this based on your description, but I’m very curious. I’ve decided I’m going to get it based on the fact that my eyeshadow looks are primarily very simple; usually just one or two shades on the lid during the week. The formula sounds intriguing and terrifying at the same time lol. Also the color combinations and swatches are beautiful.

I gotta admit, I’m surprised this palette scored as low as it did. I used mine for the first time today and I’m head over heels. The shadows are so buttery and pigmented. I plan to use Cube over a darker base because i think it’ll show up best that way.

Any tips for working with it or what shades did you use? Did you use a primer or base? I’d love to hear more 🙂

So far I’ve just used Dawn, Roxy, and All Star, with UD primer potion as a base & Milani setting spray. Was really impressed by how vibrant they stayed throughout the day! Obviously I can’t speak to how the other shades perform on the eye just yet.

Bestest review ever Christine! 😀 When I saw your swatches, what crossed my mind was the greens were kind of dirty, muddy, dark colors.. mixing them would make it more muddy may be…. Did you experience that?.

It depends on the shades is what I would say. For example, Untamed and Axis are not crazy different on the eye (http://www.temptalia.com/look/a-copper-teal-smoky-eye-with-anastasias-subculture-palette/) – Untamed is more muted and pulls lighter but they end up having a more similar undertone next to each other.

If you start putting all of the deeper shades next to each other, they aren’t going to be as noticeably different – I found halo eye placement (with something lighter/brighter on the center of the lid) kept shades more defined (http://www.temptalia.com/look/a-plum-orange-brown-eye-with-a-pop-of-teal-with-anastasia-subculture/). Alternatively, having a shimmery shade between mattes also helped since it broke up the texture (http://www.temptalia.com/look/a-rich-coral-plum-eye-with-a-pop-of-green-using-anastasia-subculture/). The latter was my favorite look out of all that I did, though.

Looks like this will be a pass for me. I’m surprised these were so very problematic but if you had trouble getting them to blend well, I can’t imagine most of the rest of us would find them any better. Disappointing because I’m just in the mood for an Anastasia palette (not Modern Renaissance, though – those colours are not my cup of tea). I wish she’d re-promote Self-Made.

I wasn’t expecting it either, especially after my first time using it went well (I had no negative thoughts that I can recall, possibly confirmation that the formula was softer overall, like MR).

My bf bought this for me because when i saw it thought it was awesome, so pretty and I don’t actually have any colours like this. I’m undecided what to do because I really hope mine isn’t difficult to use like that. Do you know if its possible to return it? And I saw that in some other comments, people think its similar to the visearts dark mattes palette, would that be a better investment for someone who does not have these colours?

Hey Evy,

Not sure where you purchased from, but if it was through Anastasia’s U.S. website, they do have a return policy!

Viseart Dark Mattes is almost double the price, so that is why it’s hard to recommend it, though it is significantly better and overall, easier to use!

Thanks and yeh the price is quite a jump up. I’m partially wondering if some peoples palettes are better than others because not all people have found it hard to use. Do you know if it’s okay to test it out and then return it if its not up to standard?

Hey Evy,

The more I worked with it, the more it became apparent that there was a fine line between getting pigmentation where you wanted it and over-application. The dark shades are not the most blendable formulas ever on the whole but are infinitely more blendable when applied with little product (which was still opaque coverage), but the softer formula does make it hard to get just what you need vs. more than you need.

I believe they take used product back – they do not say unused, and they say “overly used” so I presume it’s to protect from someone trying to return a stick of foundation that has 1/3 left (it happens). Here it is in full:

We want you to be totally satisfied with your order, however we understand if a product doesn’t work out and want to make the return as painless as possible. Naturally, we cannot take returns on overly used products and unfortunately we are not able to accept exchanges of products at this time.

If you wish to return a product, please do so within 30 days from the ship date for a refund on the purchase price, minus shipping, handling and other charges. Refunds will be credited to the original credit card used for payment.

Only items purchased on Anastasiabeverlyhills.com will be accepted. If your items were purchased at an authorized retailer, please contact that retailer directly to arrange for a return. Items purchased on Anastasiabeverlyhills.com cannot be returned or exchanged at retailers that sell Anastasia Beverly Hills Cosmetics.

https://www.anastasiabeverlyhills.com/returns.html

Thanks Christine
I really want to like this because it’s so pretty and unique but if the evidence is strongly against quality I may have to return it. 🙁 I was so excited. I really hope it’s just a quality control issue because I’d like to believe abh are releasing high quality products which is what their brand tends to do

just wanted to say thank you so much for your speedy, thorough and unbiased reviews. I really appreciate that you don’t get swayed by the hype and I love the fact that I can always count on your honest opinion. don’t ever change christine!

Thank you Christine for the amazing review! I was all set to purchase Tuesday but now I will pass. Blending issues are just not acceptable to me. I’ll check out Viseart and Jeffree Star palettes.

Incredible review Christine. I really admire all the work you put into this.
I am extremely torn on getting this palette. I had been waiting for its release ever since the photos were first leaked. Part of me wants to get it just to give it a try and satisfy my curiosity. On the other hand, if it gave you this much trouble then I probably don’t stand a chance. I don’t have the time or patience to re-do my eyeshadow 5 times trying to get things to work (especially when I own so many palettes that don’t give me any issues). I’m really gonna have to think about this one.

Part of it is a learning curve, part of it is something with the formula itself – the less product I used (and by less, I don’t mean that what I applied was sheer!), the easier it was to blend out/use the products cohesively, but it was also easy to over-apply. I did start from the position of knowing that the eyeshadows were soft, so I never felt like I was being heavy handed (especially since the first look I created with the palette went well!) but ultimately, I don’t feel like it’s a palette one could use in a rush, you know?

If it’s something you’re really interested in, keep waiting for more reviews, especially demos – I think this will be a good one to see demoed.

HI Christine,
I was really surprised by your B rating given all the issues with oxidizing (darkening? did not know eyeshadows could do that) and the blendability issues. Have you seen the youtube reviews on the palette? Seems to be overwhelming positive, save for a few people citing the same issues that you mention in your review. Do you think there is an inconsistency issue or perhaps an issue with lid-skintype and prep? I really love the colors and the swatches but am hesitant to purchase it now….

Hi Candy,

I rated each shade individually, and then they are averaged out to the final rating – the majority of eyeshadows were very pigmented and had decent wear, so that helped keep the average rating up. It’s pretty normal for something that is matte to darken over anything damp or even just with the natural oils from the skin – it’s common for me as I have normal skin mostly (not really oily but my lids aren’t dry!) and I definitely see it regularly with matte blushes. It’s not so much oxidation as the powder absorbing oiliness from the skin – does that make sense? It’s sometimes why mattes can be more prone to patchiness/unevenness compared to other finishes (or at least, that’s how it seems to me – not just Anastasia’s in this palette!).

It is very easy to over-apply product and then have it be impossible to blend/diffuse enough to make it work, but when I worked with less product and more precise brushes, the looks came together better, though not 100% perfect. For example – the first time I used the palette, everything was easy to use and I didn’t notice any deficiencies, but it was the second time where I applied two of the deeper shades that it was too much, too dark, and Destiny gave me some trouble and there was no coming back from that, so I started over. I think it’s possible to get the palette to work and come together but takes a deft hand and some patience. For the price point, it seems like a big ask.

I’d really think about whether you’re someone who minds having to work at it, whether it’s worth the work at this price point or for these particular colors – do you have anything similar? What shades are you gravitating toward? Could you just add some singles to your collection to satisfy the urge for the color scheme?

Hi Christine,

I really appreciate your response. With your updated review, and the look you created with viseart, which I guessed correctly (not really sure how I knew…) I think that I would rather stick to the dark mattes palette I have and purchase the warm mattes, especially since
a) viseart works exceptionally well for me and is pretty consistent too and
b) because I tend to be a bit heavy handed with application and it seems that that won’t work with this palette and
c) i’m still a novice at blending and creating eyeshadow looks.

Still the collection of jewel tones are irresistible and I may have to go to sephora and swatch. Do you think i can get away with bringing a beloved brush to see what color payoff and blendability i can achieve on my arms? 😀

Anyway, thank you for your dedication to your reviews!!! You went way above and beyond on this one!

Thank you so much Christine for reviewing this troublesome palette as quickly as you could.
The colour scheme is interesting and diverse BUT the trouble you had to go through to make this palette work, which is a testament to your perseverance Christine, makes this palette an easy pass for me. No one has that much time in a day to do what you had to do.
Part of the problem with this palette is poor quality control of the mattes – far too many of them and the teal shade should have been a satin or shimmer to diffuse the colour.
This is a shame, because it could have been so much better.

There’s a steep learning curve, and I think even knowing what I know after using it several times, it wouldn’t be a palette I’d reach for in a rush for fear of inconsistency in application.

Hi Christine,

First of all, thanks for the crazy in-depth review. You are always on point, but you really outdid yourself here 🙂

Second, I have to say I’m deeply disappointed in ABH. I just reviewed the ingredients, and I CANNOT believe ABH “sold out” and are now using sub-par ingredients.
The first ingredient now is talc (replacing mica in the MR palette), which is unbelievable for me. As a person with skin allergies, I really try to avoid talc, as well as other ingredients that might cause an issue. That’s the reason I kept buying ABH (and, for example, avoiding Too Faced and their perfumed palettes – ugh, don’t even get me started on those).
I mean, I really hope I’m wrong here, but the only reason I can think of changing the old formulas is money: using cheaper ingredients means more $$ in their pocket.

Really ABH, really? If you’d just kept the old formula, people would’ve been all over this one. Now I might have to buy another MR palette as a backup, just in case they decide to change that in later batches as well. I’m really not liking where this brand is going.

I mean, from the feel of the formula, they felt like really nice mattes when I swatched them–they did not feel like the cheap kind of talc-heavy formula just by that. Obviously, there were issues between there and application, but I’m not knowledgeable enough to know whether the talc is specifically an issue since there are talc-based formulas that I’ve worked with over the years and haven’t had issues with either (Viseart comes to mind).

It is strange to do such a huge change to the formula and not actively promote it (new and improved, etc.), though – like Fudge in the single vs. Fudge in the palette just has a hugely different texture.

Yes exactly! I have the Fudge single and the ingredients are so different. I’m not a chemist (just an enthusiast when it comes to ingredients :)), but I know that they sometimes make small changes to eyeshadows in palettes in oppose to singles due to travel issues (make the palette version less prone to breakage during transport). This is such a HUGE change, I can’t believe it can be attributed to that only.

I understand that Norvina addressed the blending issues saying that they’d change the pressing in the next batch, so maybe that’d help. Still, not liking this at all… only because I’m such a huge ABH fan.

I’m not completely against talc, but it always makes me double check (need to look into it more though). Never tried the Viseart ones – is there one that you’d especially recommend?

If you like satin-pearly shades, I love the Paris Nudes palette – but it is a more muted, light to mid-tone palette so you might find it too shimmery (they are all shimmery) and not enough contrast for an all-in-one palette. Viseart originally was a pro brand so the palettes were designed to complement each other over being cohesive for a consumer.

Yeah, the ingredients are really different, not just like one or two things out of order, but there are different ingredients altogether on top of major order changes so it’s not a tweak – it is a new formula. Just the feel of it is like, “Whoa!” My initial thinking after swatching and feeling them was that they were moving to a denser formula that would adhere better/be more pigmented (thin mattes often are dusty or sheer out too easily and may not build up as well), but it really felt like a new formula.

I was eying that Paris Nudes one to be honest 🙂
What about the mattes?

(thanks for responding btw, it must take a while…)

I really dig Warm Mattes but like warm tones. The original matte palette is excellent for a staple neutral palette. Dark Mattes is nice if you want some variety in tone and color 🙂

Adorn, electric and cube have all got hardpan for me after one swatch and one application. Adorn still applies well with a finger but hardly anything picks up on brush. Cube and electric are underwhelming. The mattes are better for me. Powdery for sure but they are blending ok. Axis and rowdy do take a heap of work…. overall dissappinted given previous ABH quality. 🙁

I was soo excited for this when they first announced it. The colors are beautiful and mesh so well together. Plus I loved Modern Renaissance so much I figured this would be a no brainer. But the reviews are all over the place this time around and everyone’s saying the same things. I’m really hoping this is a quality control issue that ABH is able to fix and they didn’t just switch up the formula. I love their shadows and would hate to see this kind of quality be the new norm for them

The formula is definitely different, and I wish we knew why (even if it was just brand-speak about how it was new and improved).

I literally do not buy anything without reading your reviews but I took the plunge with this one. I must say that I have nothing like this palette and the colours are all so unique and go well with stuff I already have.
I’ve noticed they work best with a light coat of my NYX primer or none at all. I am now just figuring out with colours can be used how. For instance Destiny in my palette does not blend at all, I can only gently pack on to the lids.

I did an eye look with Rowdy all over the lid, New Wave in the crease, Fudge and Adorn to line my under eye and Cube on the brow bone and inner eye highlight. It looked spectacular!

Do you have the name of the NYX primer? They seem to have a few, so it would be great to know the specifics!

I’m happy to hear from you, Naaz, and how the palette has been working well for you so far (except Destiny). It’s nice to know it does work for some!

It is the NYX HD eyeshadow base. I use a thin layer to correct the discoloration around my eyes.
I still think the colours work better without any primer. I scrapped off the top layer of Electric and it was really creamy under there. I just don’t get this palette 🙁

Hmmmm……you know the first thing that popped into my mind when I saw this palette was CLEOPATRA!
Like I could so see a Liz Taylor lookalike rocking an Arabian style eye with these shades. That being said I can kind of see how you’d have to restrain each look you did with those deep matte shades – they’re so murky to start with that mixing them would most likely lead to mud. Not a beginner-friendly palette for sure. I don’t think ABH has a crowd pleaser here.

Thanks for this review. I’ve watched a lot of live reviews on it lately and they aren’t good at all. It’s great to hear another perspective.

I have seen a few, and my experience definitely seems to be more in the middle, since I was able to get colors to adhere/apply overall and I know some had trouble getting product to adhere at all! I also seemed to have better luck using the lighter shades (New Wave, Edge, Roxy, Dawn) compared to some reviews I have seen. Definitely a mixed bag of reviews, though.

Thank you for the incredibly in-depth review! Your reviews are always detailed, but you really went above and beyond!

I’m on the fence because the colors are so pretty and I don’t have dupes for most of them at all, but I might have a hard enough time coming up with work-friendly looks without all the application issues. I think I’ll have to see this one in person. Would it make me a crazy makeup lady if I took a set of eye brushes and attempted a look on the back of my hand? Lol!

Yeah, this one feels like you’d want to pull in another palette if you were aiming for work-friendly looks!

And no, it totally wouldn’t 🙂

I’m so heartbroken by the performance of this palette… I was living for the 1960’s color scheme with all those mustards and oranges and murky greens… I was really hopeful that this would perform well after Modern Renaissance was so amazing… so bummed, I was really excited for this one, but I can’t justify it with so many duds in there… may have to get some dupes…

Axis, Untamed and Rowdy look really interesting but you experience with this palette is shocking. Sounds like a bit of a nightmare really. Thanks for the review and all your trials and tribulations.

I was watching Makeup By Jack review on it and he had exact same issues: blend-ability. Some colors wouldn’t even stick to his lid. This is one i’m gonna have to play with and see in person. But I do love the colors. They are quite unique.

It does seem to be a hit or miss for a lot of people! I was initially quite surprised, because I actually really like my palette-I didn’t have much of an issue with blending, although Modern Renaissance definitely is better in that respect.
I definitely agree the duochromes were disappointing though, particularly cube.
All in all MR is definitely better quality in terms of blending/formula, but I do still like Subculture (also, at the risk of expressing an unpopular opinion, the MR color scheme is boring and not very original.)

The more reviews, the more poloarizing the palette is, but I think there is a greater dislike of it, thus far.

I absolutely love the mattes in this palette and Adorn, but I also can’t make Cube or Electric work no matter what I do! The looks I make with the mattes are so beautiful, but I don’t know if its worth it if the duochromes won’t work. 🙁

Cube is a waste. The best I can rec for Electric is to try it with fingertips, a wet brush, or over a glittery base 🙁

I have received The palette Friday and I live in The Netherlands, very quick! But I regret I did not read your review first. I tried a look with Destiny, untamed, mercury, axis, cube and I failed!! They don’t blend!! I treid 3 times, one with No primer, The second time with mac primer for eyes, third time with Urban decay and they were all patchy. I think The only way to uur these eyeshadows is to only use only or 2 Color and tap them on and dont use them on The crease to not ruin a look. I saw that The formula is different then MR or make up by Mario palette, The main ingrediënt Mica is replaced by Talc. A lesson for next time to first read your review Christine!

Christine, I just want to thank you for putting so much time into an honest review. I always enjoy and appreciate reading your posts!

hmm…still on the fence with this one. although i love the concept of the shades, i realistically know for ME those darker shades (although gorge) I’d rarely wear. I already have viseart dark n neutral matte palettes so i’ll prolly just grab modern romance n call it day. I’ll live vicariously through everyone else who can pull off that gorgeous navy, burgundy n green shade!!

Thank you for your honest review! A lot of reviews had the same issues with the palette which is sad to hear. I’m such a big fan of the modern renaissance palette that I’m a little shocked at how disappointing this palette is.

P.S.: Just started my own blog and you’re such an inspiration! Hope to one day have the amount of views you have. Would love to hear about how you got started with your blog.

Wow, what a plot twist. This thing looked so cool and to read the review is bananas! Stunningly detailed, tested, and researched, I applaud your effort and writing. Top drawer (to make an obscure reference), Christine!
I realize I have a lot of dupes for this and will refrain from purchasing. the inconsistent quality seals the deal on that decision.

So, mine arrives tomorrow, and now I’m nervous, after seeing your review, and others, hoping that mine will not be destroyed into a mix of powders during shipping. I absolutely LOVE this mix of cool shades, especially after the release of so many warm palettes. However, if you are struggling with creating looks, I’m concerned that my looks will be nothing but a muddy mess. Oh boy……

Christine,

Are we going to see any Jeffree Star Cosmetics reviews? I’d love to know how you feel about the brand/products =) I’ve had my eye on Androgyny for a while.

I ordered mine last week and it’s due to arrive tomorrow-for anyone who’s had issues, what is the return/refund process like?? I’m leaving the country with the Peace Corps next week and if I find the palette to be unusable, I hope I can get my money back; I won’t be able to wait around for a replacement! Who knew an eyeshadow palette could be so stressful, lol.

I’m surprised that this still got a B rating after your long discussion of the application issues! Well, I just ordered this palette from Sephora today so we will see if I get a good or bad palette, and whether application works for me. If I have to return it I won’t be too terribly sad and I most definitely will not be surprised. Thank you so much for your detailed review! Hopefully it will make me successful with this palette!

These swatches are amazing but I’m definitely not going to risk getting one of these bad units so I’m going to wait at least a few months before I buy. On the other hand I know I’ll never use those army greens so I might not buy at all. But it sure is beautiful!

After reading all reviews and yours too, I’ve definitely decided against this palette, to my chagrin because I really liked the unique color scheme. Everyone seemed to think (even you I believe) that Natasha Denona’s palettes were tricky, but this seems like a lesser-quality nightmare in comparison. And I am surprised it received a B (but I think that’s due to individual swatches performing well for you?)

I’m a bit saddened as I thought it would be my fall palette this year. So, what I do have to look forward to? You give dupes! Yeaaah! Thank you! I’ll try to reconstruct this color scheme with your help, so I do appreciate your work on this one!

Yes, it rated a bit higher due to the way the colors performed individually (pigmentation, longevity). For me, it “felt” like a B-/C+ palette (it was 83% – at the cusp of a B- but not quite, 80-82% is B- territory). I have found that mine seems to have performed better than others, and I don’t say that with any criticism or judgment of my fellow reviewers – I genuinely believe there is inconsistency across palettes.

Hi Christine! I appreciate your reviews and Muse’s (Isabella), especially when there’s controversy and they are very similar (though yours has that raising science plus that my analyst side like). In the end though, you both come to the same conclusion that confirmed that for now, I don’t want to invest in a troublesome palette. I actually reviewed all of the dupes you give for each color and selected the ones I felt closest and that I may already have in order to “somewhat” achieve the color scheme that I so want to try. So thanks!

Well, I hope so. My local Sephora just received it this past week and I was surprised that I remained disappointed, but not for the same reasons. The swatches were good, but the colors are much more muted that I perceived from everyone’s swatches, images, and reviews. I’m concerned that they’ll be too much inconsistency with how the colors will look on me. So, unless it ever goes a a super sale, I don’t think it’ll join my collection.

I agree, what a serious work you have out into this review!! Quite amazing and very helpful and soothing compared to all the rage that seems to get channeled through this little palette…

I have yet to experience mine. Ordered it from Cult Beauty in the UK, since I live in europe. And I guess it reaches me on monday… then we’ll see 😅

Now I totally believe with you, Christine that there must be some inconsistencys in the manufacturing combined with the seemingly deliberate choice of the creator to experiment with a more pigmented and softer formula. Which I think I A ok to do! Anastasia has been innovative as a brand since the get go!
However with wild experiments also comes the risk of unforeseen issues. So my layman ass thinks perhaps some of the community rage could have been avoided had they beforehand stated that this would be a totally different formula and experience to use?
Since the palette does seem somewhat to be worth a bit of trouble, (probably not cascades of powder everywhere, like your illustration with your friends palette that seems vastly different from the three batches you have tried). I mean the looks you have been able to create with it are stunning!! And if they did stay long too with no fallout during wear. Then this seems like a fun palette to me, for days when I have time on my hands to experiment… 🙂

Ultimately, what is really bizarre is that ABH made a choice to go with this formula – and some of it, at least, seems by design and not to be cheap or anything bad like that. Why didn’t they talk about that? Why didn’t they promote the new formula or educate on it? So weird to me that they did not use such an obvious opportunity!

I totally agree with you on that, really weird not to use that as the ultimate usp for this palette! And therefore the ultimate question is: why didn’t they??
So far we can only speculate, but could it perhaps be so that they didn’t quite think the palette would be this incredibly pigmented and loose in its formula? Maybe the outcome was a little too good to be true so to speak? That could explain why they did not market it more clearly from the start… I mean the collaboration palette they did with Kardashians makeup artist, (I don’t remember the name for the moment), was also more loose and pigmented compared to the Modern Renaissance and has more fallout, but not exaggerated like this…
Again, I’m only speculating. But if the subculture formula is exactly what they were aiming for, then I so agree and wish they would have made that clear. That would have saved a lot of confusion… 🙂

You amaze me with all of the work you put into this! You continue to show how much you really care about your readers. Thank you for all you do!

You put so much work into this Christine thanks for all your hard work! I’m out! I’m not into dark colors or mattes too much and it all sounds like a lot of work to apply.

I didn’t buy this palette but I just wanted to say thank you and Leesha so much for taking the time to continue to test and examine the palette even after both of you guys had posted your reviews! I know from your instagram alone that you have tonnes of products to swatch, test and review on a daily basis. It really means a lot to me (and I’m sure others) that you would take the time to go back and take a third and fourth look at a product to make sure you’re as thorough with you can be with your review.

Thanks again for the amazing work and I wish you and your family all the best!

Thank your for the extensive review 🙂 could you please list the number of the batches for the 4 palettes that you got ? Thanks 🙂

I wish I wrote that info down! I only took full photos of the one in the review (you can see the batch number in the photos). They were all P7, though.

There’s a label printed on the palette – it looks black, very computerized! Mine all started with P7###.

Hi Christine, do you think the Viseart dark mattes is a good dupe for those green shades, and just better quality overall? I’m also wanting those purples, but your original review of it worries me a little!

I’m really loving the color theme of the subculture, but I’d rather pay more for an easier to work with product.

Hi Caroline,

Sure, it’s similar enough, but in general, the Viseart palette runs lighter, more muted, and is just a lot less dark/intense compared to Subculture. Neither ABH nor Viseart makes any particularly unique claims, so the rating criteria was the same across both palettes – Dark Mattes was rated an A-.

Thank you so much for all the eye looks you have done with this palette! They look beautiful! I didn’t think I would like this palette being that I go for lighter/neutral palettes but I bought the palette at Ulta today, came home and had to try one of your eye looks you did and loved it! Excited to try another today!

After using and loving the Prism palette and hearing that they pressed the shadows harder, I hesitantly picked up the palette from Ulta during their 20% off sale. I used it for two eyelooks today and they both turned out well. I noticed a few small things that had me humming in curiosity, like whether New Wave and Dawn blended together was creating a tan brown color or if it was because I used a tinted primer (Caffeine by Urban Decay). Or whether Murcury was darkening a little after application. But for the most part I had a positive experience with the palette. Dawn and Fudge are still powdery as h-e l- double hockey sticks, but all of the other mattes had typical kickup that’s expected of an ABH palette.

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