Pat McGrath Subversive Mini Eyeshadow Palette Review & Swatches
Subversive
Pat McGrath Subversive Eye Ecstasy Mini Eyeshadow Palette ($28.00 for 0.18 oz.) is a rich, more jewel-toned combination of shades. Two of the shades (Crimson Fire and Synthetica) in the palette are available as single eyeshadows, while the other three are from the Decadence palette (the one I rave about incessantly). I’m pleased to report that the eyeshadows are fantastic: pigmented, creamy, blendable, long-wearing, and all-around a dream to work with; they were fairly consistent with the original releases–I’d argue that Synthetica was a bit smoother (but slightly less sparkly).
The packaging is functional; it’s by no means luxe or weighty like the Mothership Palettes, but it seems like it would hold up for travel to me. The cover will give a little if you pushed firmly on the center, but it has a good click to stay shut. If you’re someone who would rather more of the cost go toward the actual product than the packaging, this is that–it contains $113.64 worth of eyeshadow! I would have liked to have seen something more in line with Natasha Denona’s mini palettes re: packaging — it doesn’t feel like a departure from the brand, though, and it’s more space-efficient!
Ingredients
Look Using this Product
Subversive
LELimited Edition. $28.00.
Lapis Luxury
Lapis Luxury is a rich, medium-dark blue-teal with cool undertones and a bright, metallic finish. The eyeshadow had a creamy consistency that was smooth to the touch, dense but not too thick or too stiff that it became difficult to pick up product with a dry brush. It had opaque pigmentation in a single layer, which wore nicely for 10 hours before creasing slightly. It performed consistently with past releases.
FURTHER READING: Formula Overview for details on general performance and characteristics (like scent).
Top Dupes
- Natasha Denona Aqueous (261M) (LE, $29.00) is lighter, cooler (90% similar).
- Sydney Grace Ruth (PiP, $6.25) is darker, cooler (90% similar).
- Danessa Myricks Magnetic (P, $18.00) is lighter, brighter, cooler (90% similar).
- Tarte Artist (LE, ) is less shimmery, lighter, cooler (90% similar).
- Too Faced Mystic Hour (LE, $16.00) is less shimmery, darker, more muted (90% similar).
- Makeup by Mario Party Glam #1 (LE, ) is lighter (90% similar).
- NABLA Cosmetics Under Pressure (P, $8.00) is less shimmery, more muted (90% similar).
- Guerlain Les Aquas #3 (P, ) is less shimmery (90% similar).
- Sydney Grace Splendor (DC, $8.00) is less shimmery, lighter, cooler (90% similar).
- Urban Decay Plunge (LE, $19.00) is less shimmery, lighter (90% similar).
Formula Overview
$25.00/0.04 oz. - $625.00 Per Ounce
Pat McGrath's eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be "super-saturated" with "creamy, soft textures" and "extreme blendability and adherence without creasing." A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.
The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow--I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I'm not sure they're as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash--I wish it really locked in, but there's definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it's within 2mm of the base.
The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.
Browse all of our Pat McGrath EYEdols Eyeshadow swatches.
Ingredients
Mica, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Stearyl Dimethicone, Glyceryl Behenate, Zinc Stearate, Silica, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Phenoxyethanol, Octadecene, Sorbic Acid, Tin Oxide, Aluminum Dimyristate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Talc, Water/Aqua, Honey Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Iron Oxides (Ci 77499), Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891), Aluminum Powder (Ci 77000), Ferric Ammonium Ferrocyanide (Ci 77510), Ferric Ferrocyanide (Ci 77510).
Disclaimer: Ingredient lists are as available by the brand (or retailer) at the time of publishing. Please always check product packaging, if it exists, for the ingredient list applicable to the product you're purchasing, or the brand or retailer's website for the most up-to-date ingredient list.
Looks Using this Product
Lapis Luxury
PiPPermanent in Palette. $25.00.
Blue Blood
Blue Blood is a deep plum with muted, warm undertones and a pearly sheen. It was richly pigmented with a smooth, lightly creamy consistency that was dense without being too thick or too firmly pressed in the pan. The color applied well to bare skin, blended out easily along the edge, and stayed on well for nine and a half hours on me before fading a touch. It performed consistently with past releases.
FURTHER READING: Formula Overview for details on general performance and characteristics (like scent).
Top Dupes
- Smashbox Rock Stars (PiP, ) is less shimmery, darker (90% similar).
- Pat McGrath Metropolis (LE, $25.00) is less shimmery, darker (95% similar).
- Lisa Eldridge Faded Amethyst (P, $16.00) is less shimmery, warmer (90% similar).
- Pat McGrath Amnesia (LE, $25.00) is less shimmery, lighter (90% similar).
- ColourPop Sing (LE, $4.50) is less shimmery, darker (90% similar).
- Anastasia Drama (LE, $12.00) is lighter (90% similar).
- Too Faced Chocolate Raspberry (LE, $16.00) is less shimmery, cooler (90% similar).
- Fenty Beauty Nuts N Dates (PiP, ) is less shimmery, more muted (90% similar).
- Marc Jacobs Beauty Blitz Glitz (LE, $28.00) is more shimmery, lighter, warmer (90% similar).
- Make Up For Ever I834 Grape (DC, $21.00) is less shimmery (90% similar).
Formula Overview
$25.00/0.04 oz. - $625.00 Per Ounce
Pat McGrath's eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be "super-saturated" with "creamy, soft textures" and "extreme blendability and adherence without creasing." A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.
The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow--I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I'm not sure they're as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash--I wish it really locked in, but there's definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it's within 2mm of the base.
The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.
Browse all of our Pat McGrath EYEdols Eyeshadow swatches.
Ingredients
Mica, Phenyl Trimethicone, Zinc Stearate, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Talc, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid, Iron Oxides (Ci 77499, Ci 77491), Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891).
Disclaimer: Ingredient lists are as available by the brand (or retailer) at the time of publishing. Please always check product packaging, if it exists, for the ingredient list applicable to the product you're purchasing, or the brand or retailer's website for the most up-to-date ingredient list.
Looks Using this Product
Blue Blood
PiPPermanent in Palette. $25.00.
Gold Standard
Gold Standard is a bright, medium gold with strong, warm undertones and a metallic finish. The color payoff was opaque in one layer, while the texture felt smooth to the touch, creamy without being too dense or too thick in the pan, and blended out beautifully over bare skin. The color lasted well for 10 hours on me before fading a touch. It performed consistently with past releases.
FURTHER READING: Formula Overview for details on general performance and characteristics (like scent).
Top Dupes
- Glaminatrix Treasure (P, $8.04) is darker (95% similar).
- Pat McGrath Enraptured (DC, $25.00) is darker (95% similar).
- Urban Decay Stay Gold (LE, $19.00) is less shimmery, lighter (95% similar).
- NABLA Cosmetics Paradiso (PiP, ) is less shimmery, darker, more muted (95% similar).
- Coloured Raine Rose (LE, $6.99) is darker, cooler (95% similar).
- Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Triptych (DC, $14.00) is lighter, brighter (95% similar).
- Tom Ford Beauty TFX14 (LE, $36.00) is darker (90% similar).
- Pat McGrath Gold Lust 001 (LE, $25.00) is more shimmery, warmer (95% similar).
- Too Faced Chocolate Gold (LE, $16.00) (90% similar).
- Juvia's Place Nubia (LE, ) is brighter (95% similar).
Formula Overview
$25.00/0.04 oz. - $625.00 Per Ounce
Pat McGrath's eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be "super-saturated" with "creamy, soft textures" and "extreme blendability and adherence without creasing." A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.
The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow--I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I'm not sure they're as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash--I wish it really locked in, but there's definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it's within 2mm of the base.
The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.
Browse all of our Pat McGrath EYEdols Eyeshadow swatches.
Ingredients
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Calcium Sodium Borosilicate, Talc, Zinc Stearate, Silica, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid, Tin Oxide, Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891), Iron Oxides (Ci 77491, Ci 77492).
Disclaimer: Ingredient lists are as available by the brand (or retailer) at the time of publishing. Please always check product packaging, if it exists, for the ingredient list applicable to the product you're purchasing, or the brand or retailer's website for the most up-to-date ingredient list.
Looks Using this Product
Gold Standard
LELimited Edition. $25.00.
Synthetica
Synthetica is a medium purple with a subtle, cooler undertone paired with multi-colored flecks of sparkle. It seemed almost like it had a blackened base and lots of lighter, brighter lavender and purple sparkle that gave it a lighter color (overall). I felt like it was a bit less sparkly compared to the previous version, though this seemed to have a more finely-milled, smoother consistency (which would make sense). It had full pigmentation in a single pass, and the color applied well to bare skin without fallout and blended out with ease. It wore well for nine and a half hours on me before fading visibly.
FURTHER READING: Formula Overview for details on general performance and characteristics (like scent).
Top Dupes
- Kaleidos Flowing Haze (Radiate) (PiP, ) is warmer (95% similar).
- Urban Decay The Artist (LE, $19.00) is less shimmery, darker, warmer (90% similar).
- MAC Get Physical (LE, $18.00) is lighter, warmer (90% similar).
- Lisa Eldridge Iris (P, $27.00) is less shimmery, darker, warmer (90% similar).
- NARS Kauai #2 (DC, $25.00) is less shimmery, darker (85% similar).
- Stila Vivid Amethyst (P, $24.00) is less shimmery (90% similar).
- Viseart Violette (PiP, ) is less shimmery, lighter, cooler (90% similar).
- NARS Kauai II (PiP, $19.00) is less shimmery, darker (85% similar).
- MAC Wishful Thinking (LE, $25.00) is lighter, warmer (90% similar).
- Huda Beauty Purple Haze #9 (PiP, ) is less shimmery, lighter, less pigmented (90% similar).
Formula Overview
$25.00/0.04 oz. - $625.00 Per Ounce
Pat McGrath's eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be "super-saturated" with "creamy, soft textures" and "extreme blendability and adherence without creasing." A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.
The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow--I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I'm not sure they're as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash--I wish it really locked in, but there's definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it's within 2mm of the base.
The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.
Browse all of our Pat McGrath EYEdols Eyeshadow swatches.
Ingredients
Calcium Sodium Borosilicate, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Silica, Zinc Stearate, Mica, Talc, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Phenoxyethanol, Tin Oxide, Sorbic Acid, Aluminum Dimyristate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Iron Oxides (Ci 77499), Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891).
Disclaimer: Ingredient lists are as available by the brand (or retailer) at the time of publishing. Please always check product packaging, if it exists, for the ingredient list applicable to the product you're purchasing, or the brand or retailer's website for the most up-to-date ingredient list.
Looks Using this Product
Synthetica
DCDiscontinued. $25.00.
Crimson Fire
Crimson Fire is a rich, deep copper with warm, reddish undertones and a pearly sheen. The eyeshadow had fantastic color coverage in a single layer, which applied well to bare skin with a smooth, even lay down of product that diffused well along the edges. The texture was smooth to the touch, dense but not stiff, and easy to pick up with a brush. It stayed on nicely for nine and a half hours before I noticed slight fading. It performed consistently with past releases.
FURTHER READING: Formula Overview for details on general performance and characteristics (like scent).
Top Dupes
- Tarte Iguana Love You (LE, ) is more shimmery, warmer (95% similar).
- NARS Indian Wells (LE, $19.00) is less shimmery, lighter (95% similar).
- Coloured Raine Noblewoman (PiP, $6.99) is more shimmery, darker (95% similar).
- Pat McGrath Blitz Flame (PiP, $25.00) is more shimmery, lighter, cooler (85% similar).
- Urban Decay Gash (LE, $19.00) is darker, warmer (95% similar).
- Huda Beauty Fling (LE, ) is more shimmery, darker (90% similar).
- KVD Beauty Swoon (Better Together) (LE, ) is less shimmery, darker, cooler (90% similar).
- Tarte Revel (P, $14.00) is less shimmery, darker, more muted (90% similar).
- Viseart Nuance #6 (PiP, ) is more shimmery, lighter (90% similar).
- Huda Beauty Desire (PiP, ) is more shimmery, darker (90% similar).
Formula Overview
$25.00/0.04 oz. - $625.00 Per Ounce
Pat McGrath's eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be "super-saturated" with "creamy, soft textures" and "extreme blendability and adherence without creasing." A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.
The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow--I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I'm not sure they're as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash--I wish it really locked in, but there's definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it's within 2mm of the base.
The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.
Browse all of our Pat McGrath EYEdols Eyeshadow swatches.
Ingredients
Mica, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Talc, Dimethicone, Zinc Stearate, Silica, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid, Iron Oxides (Ci 77491), Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891).
Disclaimer: Ingredient lists are as available by the brand (or retailer) at the time of publishing. Please always check product packaging, if it exists, for the ingredient list applicable to the product you're purchasing, or the brand or retailer's website for the most up-to-date ingredient list.
I think Lapis Luxury might have an error. The description raves about it and all of the scores are 10, except for application which got a 0. I love all your reviews and find your website to be a great resource. I hardly ever buy anything without consulting temptalia first!
Sorry — stupid me — missed putting in the score!
Fantastic to see that it received the Temptalia Recommends sticker of approval, and that mine is on its way to me as I speak! Because I love these sorts of rich jewel tones on myself, I’m sure that this will see much usage and enjoyment, too!
I am definitely buying this.
Soooo tempted! But honestly, I’ve just purchased a couple of colorful palettes, and I already don’t get enough use out of my Pat McGrath palettes. I have some of her smaller ones (in the cardboard packaging) and even though they are absolutely gorgeous, I simply don’t reach for them much. I prefer to make a look from one palette at a time, and for me, Pat’s palettes require using a couple at a time for added mattes and neutrals. I would argue that Pat’s palettes are great for people that are more artistic than I am.
It is winging it’s way to me even as we speak! So excited. I love the eye look you did with it, Christine.
This is the one I would have picked, as these are my perfect colours! I love bright shimmers!
But I have dupes for 4 of the 5 shades and the one I don’t have a dupe for, I have shades that are similar enough. So I can skip this one.
I am pretty excited to see Lapis Luxury in this little guy – it’s the only color I really wanted out of the Decadance palette. The packaging is travel-friendly, unlike the big PMG palette I’ve got, and it’s got a nice collection of colors to zazz up a more basic collection. I’ll definitely be picking it up at some point.
I havent bought much eye shadow this year at all (I have enough, thank you very much) but I definitely grabbed this since I didn’t buy Decadence. I’m excited for it!
I got this, even though I have the gold shade. I didn’t have the others, and missed out on Decadence. I’m glad the quality is great. The packaging does look really cheap and like a waste of space, unfortunately. I may end up depotting this one.
Thank you Christine, I’m still awaiting mine!
A stunningly jewelled eyeshadow palette, although personally I would have preferred it if the Crimson Fire shade was replaced by an emerald green…
Beautiful eye look too Christine.
Mine arrived today. I swatched them, but haven’t had an opportunity to use them yet. I bought both palettes. While the quality of the shadows is there, the packaging is really a letdown. It’s a cheap looking plastic. And the shadow arrangement wastes space. And the sequins….really, should be left to the arts and crafts store. Pat McGrathneeds to rethink her packaging. In the end, it comes down to the shadows, which to me, are a great deal and I love them.
It may be a mistake to wait for holiday, as this will sell out like hotcakes. (How dumb is that expression?) Agree with Gen it could have used a bang up jewel green, but certainly I have many SGs for that. Know I will cave eventually. Your look is sublime, and the palette has infinite combos, providing you are willing to bring in your crease/transition, etc. This is one Pat that I can easily justify, even in these days of ‘just say no’ (Nancy Reagan-ing) eyeshadows. Glorious minipalette.
If it’s meant to be, it’ll still be available when you’re ready!
Thanks, KJH!
It’s stunning– and I am very tempted for Crimson Fire and the purple not in Decadence. On the fence for now. Meanwhile, my PMG lipstick from the sale arrived. And on Instagram, I think they are getting some feedback on the sequins so the product came embedded in static-y shredded black plastic which traveled everywhere. I, for one, vote for “forget so-called luxury in the packing materials.”
Oooo…so lovely! I hope it’s still around by next VIB sale! Thank you for the super fast review on these. :o)
If I had known like 5 months ago that this palette was coming out I would have waited to get a single of the Lapis Luxury. 😛 That said still getting this palette as well in the future. 😉
I regret to have purchased the single Synthetica. For the same price I could have picked this one. ?
I’m very happy with my purchase 🙂 I like that the red and red plum can be used for day-looks without being too dramatic. The purple, blue, and gold are a bit too much for my office environment, but I’m wearing a hint of the purple today. I saw one blogger say you can see Pat’s sparkle from outer space and I’d have to agree haha. I will likely depot this one because of how the shadows are laid out. I’ll toss it in a MUFE empty palette when I want to use it on the go.
I hated throwing away a sack of sequins. Pat’s so quick on trends that I’m surprised she’s still using these. Glad to see someone comment that it sounds like they’re making changes, but apparently they’re still using non-recyclable single use plastic packaging. Honestly, the Natasha Denona mini tropic palette came in a tightly packed warehouse-style slim cardboard. The cardboard style was sturdy, got the job done, and is recyclable.