Pat McGrath Subversive Mothership Eyeshadow Palette Review, Photos, Swatches
Subversive
Pat McGrath Subversive Mothership Eyeshadow Palette ($125.00 for 0.47 oz.) is a new, permanent palette that features 10 eyeshadows in a variety of finishes that has warmer-toned shades with a few pops of cooler pink/violet kind of shades. The brand has divided their eyeshadows into two finishes: Powderluxe Pressed Eye Shadows (matte, pearl, and sparkle finishes) and “modern, hybrid pigmented formulas” (I’m not sure why one type got an official name and the other did not!) with the latter having “metallic, satin sheen, iridescence, and holographic brilliance finishes.”
The key to determining which is which is to look at the shape of the eyeshadow–the “hybrid” shades are domed, and they tend to have a lot more sparkle in them, too. These shades are often recommended to be applied with a “dampened brush to achieve an eye-opening effect” or with “fingertip[s],” though some of the Powderluxe shades can be used wet or dry, too (per the brand). Pat McGrath actually breaks down how to apply each shade here. It’s all I ever wanted from a brand: to actually be more specific on a shade-by-shade level if, in fact, they intend for shades to differ in pigmentation or application!
There’s something about the way the palettes in the Mothership line are designed that makes me think they’re artistic, conceptual palettes that will be most versatile when paired with other eyeshadows and palettes one might have in one’s stash. There were definitely looks to be done within the palette, but I often wanted to reach for outside shades to bring looks to their fullest potential. It will also perform the best if you already use dampened brushes with high-sparkle/high-shimmer eyeshadows.
The packaging is hefty; there’s no question that some of the high price tag is due to the heavier packaging and the metal-esque plate on the exterior and the faceted mirror inside. I do, however, wish the brand had labeled the eyeshadows somewhere on the palette along with the palette’s name.
Ingredients
Looks Using this Product
Subversive
PPermanent. $128.00.
Skinshow Fever
Skinshow Fever is a light-medium gold with strong, warm orange undertones and a frosted sheen. It had excellent pigmentation that applied evenly and smoothly to bare skin. The texture was soft, finely-milled, and almost cream-like, which made blending a dream. Per the brand, it can be applied wet or dry with the wet application amplifying the finsh (made it more metallic). The color lasted for eight and a half hours on me.
FURTHER READING: Formula Overview for details on general performance and characteristics (like scent).
Top Dupes
- Maybelline Beige-ing Beauty (85) (LE, $6.99) is darker (95% similar).
- Smashbox Champagne (PiP, ) is lighter (95% similar).
- Ciate Vaycay (LE, ) is more shimmery (95% similar).
- Wet 'n' Wild Rose in the Air #4 (PiP, ) is darker (95% similar).
- Becca Opal (LE, ) is darker (95% similar).
- MAC Lithe (LE, $21.00) is more shimmery (95% similar).
- NARS Orgasm I (LE, $19.00) is less shimmery (95% similar).
- Urban Decay Blunt (DC, $19.00) is warmer (95% similar).
- ColourPop Moon Struck (LE, $4.50) is lighter (95% similar).
- Dior Sundeck #2 (LE, ) is lighter (95% similar).
Formula Overview
$25.00/0.04 oz. - $625.00 Per Ounce
Pat McGrath's eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be "super-saturated" with "creamy, soft textures" and "extreme blendability and adherence without creasing." A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.
The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow--I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I'm not sure they're as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash--I wish it really locked in, but there's definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it's within 2mm of the base.
The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.
Browse all of our Pat McGrath EYEdols Eyeshadow swatches.
Looks Using this Product
Skinshow Fever
PiPPermanent in Palette. $25.00.
Night Creature
Night Creature is a bright, medium purple with warm, pink undertones and a sparkling finish. It had rich, opaque color payoff in a single layer, and it was fairly easy to blend, but the texture was a bit denser and thicker compared to the mattes in the palette. As a result, I would recommend applying this over any matte eyeshadow application/blending. It wore well for eight and a half hours and had minor fallout.
FURTHER READING: Formula Overview for details on general performance and characteristics (like scent).
Top Dupes
- Stila Violet Vixen (P, $24.00) is darker, cooler (85% similar).
- Viseart Calypso (GPV2 #15) (P, ) is lighter, warmer (90% similar).
- Sydney Grace Don't Quit (PiP, $6.25) is less shimmery, lighter, warmer (90% similar).
- ColourPop Bow Down (PiP, $6.00) is less shimmery, darker (90% similar).
- ColourPop Forever Bewitching (LE, $6.00) is less shimmery, lighter, warmer (90% similar).
- Sydney Grace Elegant Candy (PiP, $6.25) is less shimmery, warmer (90% similar).
- Sydney Grace Amethyst (LE, $6.25) is warmer (90% similar).
- MAC Frizzyplum (LE, $17.00) is less shimmery, lighter (90% similar).
- NABLA Cosmetics Calypso (P, $8.00) is lighter (90% similar).
- Viseart Bijoux Royal #5 (LE, ) is less shimmery, darker (90% similar).
Formula Overview
$25.00/0.04 oz. - $625.00 Per Ounce
Pat McGrath's eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be "super-saturated" with "creamy, soft textures" and "extreme blendability and adherence without creasing." A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.
The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow--I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I'm not sure they're as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash--I wish it really locked in, but there's definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it's within 2mm of the base.
The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.
Browse all of our Pat McGrath EYEdols Eyeshadow swatches.
Ingredients
Talc, Calcium Sodium Borosilicate, Silica, Mica, Dimethicone, Behenyl Dimethicone/Bis-Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Polyethylene, C20-24 Olefin, Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tin Oxide. (+/ -): Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77499), Carmine (CI 75470), Ultramarines (CI 77007).
Disclaimer: Ingredient lists are as available by the brand (or retailer) at the time of publishing. Please always check product packaging, if it exists, for the ingredient list applicable to the product you're purchasing, or the brand or retailer's website for the most up-to-date ingredient list.
Looks Using this Product
Night Creature
PiPPermanent in Palette. $25.00.
Deep Shade
Deep Shade is a medium-dark, red-brown with warm undertones and a matte finish. It had semi-opaque, buildable pigmentation with a soft, velvety texture that wasn’t too soft nor was it too firm in the pan, which helped it blend easily on the lid. The color stayed on well for nine hours before fading slightly.
FURTHER READING: Formula Overview for details on general performance and characteristics (like scent).
Top Dupes
- Tarte Genie (LE, ) is lighter (95% similar).
- LORAC Joshua Tree (LE, $19.00) is darker (95% similar).
- Chanel Trait de Caractere #3 (LE, ) is lighter (95% similar).
- Coloured Raine Torch (LE, $6.99) is lighter (95% similar).
- Melt Cosmetics Moonchild (LE, ) is warmer (95% similar).
- Urban Decay Privacy (PiP, $19.00) is darker (95% similar).
- Huda Beauty Coco (LE, ) is lighter (95% similar).
- Anastasia Violeta (LE, $12.00) is darker (95% similar).
- Melt Cosmetics Mar (PiP, ) is brighter (90% similar).
- Morphe Mocha (LE, ) is darker, warmer (90% similar).
Formula Overview
$25.00/0.04 oz. - $625.00 Per Ounce
Pat McGrath's eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be "super-saturated" with "creamy, soft textures" and "extreme blendability and adherence without creasing." A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.
The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow--I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I'm not sure they're as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash--I wish it really locked in, but there's definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it's within 2mm of the base.
The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.
Browse all of our Pat McGrath EYEdols Eyeshadow swatches.
Look Using this Product
Deep Shade
PiPPermanent in Palette. $25.00.
Gigabyte
Gigabyte is a deep, greenish-gold with warm, olive undertones and a sparkling, metallic finish. The brand stated that this could be used wet or dry, though I did not find the coverage to get greater with a dampened brush, but the finish was more metallic and the product went on more evenly on bare skin. It had good pigmentation both wet and dry that stayed on well for eight and a half hours with slight fallout.
FURTHER READING: Formula Overview for details on general performance and characteristics (like scent).
Top Dupes
- Sydney Grace The Scoop (P, $8.00) is cooler (95% similar).
- Inglot #433 (P, $7.00) is darker (90% similar).
- Jouer Tan Lines (LE, ) is more shimmery, warmer (90% similar).
- Huda Beauty Dubai (Remastered) (PiP, ) is lighter (90% similar).
- Sephora Jump Into the Mud (340) (P, $9.00) is less shimmery (90% similar).
- Lisa Eldridge Titania (P, $27.00) is lighter (90% similar).
- Chanel Mediterraneen #4 (LE, ) is less shimmery, cooler (90% similar).
- Dose of Colors Dirty Money (LE, ) is lighter (90% similar).
- Sydney Grace The Scoop (DC, $8.00) is cooler (90% similar).
- MAC Unwind (LE, $17.00) is lighter, brighter (85% similar).
Formula Overview
$25.00/0.04 oz. - $625.00 Per Ounce
Pat McGrath's eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be "super-saturated" with "creamy, soft textures" and "extreme blendability and adherence without creasing." A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.
The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow--I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I'm not sure they're as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash--I wish it really locked in, but there's definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it's within 2mm of the base.
The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.
Browse all of our Pat McGrath EYEdols Eyeshadow swatches.
Looks Using this Product
Gigabyte
PiPPermanent in Palette. $25.00.
VR Pink
VR Pink is a medium-dark, coppery brown base with strong, yellow undertones paired with peach-to-gold shifting sparkle. The consistency was drier and looser with a chunky texture, due to the amount and particle size of the glittery bits. It had semi-opaque pigmentation applied dry, which was slightly more pigmented and smoother in application when applied with a dampened brush. I did not see any specific guidance on what tool to apply this shade (but it had a similar texture to Blitz Amethyst where fingertips were recommended). The color lasted for eight hours but had moderate fallout without applying it with a dampened brush or adhesive base (Fix+ worked fine for controlling fallout).
FURTHER READING: Formula Overview for details on general performance and characteristics (like scent).
Top Dupes
- MAC Major Win (LE, $21.00) is cooler (90% similar).
- Chanel Abstraction (LE, $32.00) is cooler (85% similar).
- Urban Decay Recharged (P, $22.00) is darker, less pigmented, cooler (90% similar).
- Urban Decay Fireball (DC, $19.00) is less shimmery, lighter, brighter (85% similar).
- Too Faced Bellini (PiP, $16.00) is cooler (80% similar).
- Makeup Geek Firefly (P, $12.00) is lighter, brighter, warmer (80% similar).
- Urban Decay Bad Seed (P, $19.00) is less shimmery, lighter, cooler (80% similar).
- Makeup Geek Hologram (P, $12.00) is more shimmery, lighter, brighter (80% similar).
- Marc Jacobs Beauty In Stardust (LE, ) is lighter, more muted, cooler (80% similar).
- Makeup Geek Mai Tai (DC, $6.00) is less shimmery, lighter, brighter (80% similar).
Formula Overview
$25.00/0.04 oz. - $625.00 Per Ounce
Pat McGrath's eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be "super-saturated" with "creamy, soft textures" and "extreme blendability and adherence without creasing." A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.
The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow--I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I'm not sure they're as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash--I wish it really locked in, but there's definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it's within 2mm of the base.
The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.
Browse all of our Pat McGrath EYEdols Eyeshadow swatches.
Looks Using this Product
VR Pink
PiPPermanent in Palette. $25.00.
Xtreme Black
Xtreme Black is a deep black with neutral-to-cool undertones and a matte finish. The color payoff was fantastic, while the texture was velvety and soft without being too powdery or too firmly pressed in the pan. It wore well for nine hours on me before fading.
FURTHER READING: Formula Overview for details on general performance and characteristics (like scent).
Top Dupes
- Natasha Denona Blackest Black Matte (PiP, ) (100% similar).
- KVD Beauty Black Metal (LE, ) (100% similar).
- Natasha Denona Blackest Black (439CM) (PiP, ) is lighter (95% similar).
- KVD Beauty Devotion (LE, ) is lighter (95% similar).
- Marc Jacobs Beauty About Last Night No. 12 (LE, ) is cooler (95% similar).
- KVD Beauty Sabbath (LE, ) is lighter (95% similar).
- ColourPop Atlantic Ave (LE, $4.50) is lighter (95% similar).
- Le Metier de Beaute Onyx (LE, $30.00) is lighter (95% similar).
- theBalm Sleek (P, $16.00) is darker (95% similar).
- City Color Black Widow (P, $6.99) is lighter (95% similar).
Formula Overview
$25.00/0.04 oz. - $625.00 Per Ounce
Pat McGrath's eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be "super-saturated" with "creamy, soft textures" and "extreme blendability and adherence without creasing." A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.
The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow--I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I'm not sure they're as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash--I wish it really locked in, but there's definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it's within 2mm of the base.
The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.
Browse all of our Pat McGrath EYEdols Eyeshadow swatches.
Looks Using this Product
Xtreme Black
PiPPermanent in Palette. $25.00.
Lazarus
Lazarus is a deep brown with subtle, warm red undertones and a pearly sheen. It had excellent pigmentation with a smooth, blendable texture that was incredibly finely-milled and soft to the touch. The eyeshadow stayed on well for nine hours before fading slightly.
FURTHER READING: Formula Overview for details on general performance and characteristics (like scent).
Top Dupes
- Too Faced Dirt Bag (LE, $16.00) is cooler (95% similar).
- Dominique Cosmetics Iced Coffee (PiP, ) is lighter (95% similar).
- Melt Cosmetics CEO (LE, ) is lighter, warmer (95% similar).
- Makeup by Mario Ethereal Eyes #8 (LE, ) is less shimmery, warmer (95% similar).
- KVD Beauty Bronze (LE, ) is more shimmery (95% similar).
- Huda Beauty Smokey #5 (PiP, ) is darker, more muted (95% similar).
- Buxom Bronzed Bod (P, $12.00) is more shimmery, lighter, brighter (95% similar).
- Marc Jacobs Beauty The Starlet #3 (PiP, ) is lighter, warmer (95% similar).
- Sydney Grace Chocolate Bar (P, $6.25) is less shimmery, darker (90% similar).
- Juvia's Place Nubian #11 (P, ) is less shimmery, lighter (90% similar).
Formula Overview
$25.00/0.04 oz. - $625.00 Per Ounce
Pat McGrath's eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be "super-saturated" with "creamy, soft textures" and "extreme blendability and adherence without creasing." A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.
The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow--I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I'm not sure they're as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash--I wish it really locked in, but there's definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it's within 2mm of the base.
The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.
Browse all of our Pat McGrath EYEdols Eyeshadow swatches.
Lazarus
PiPPermanent in Palette. $25.00.
Black Metal
Black Metal is a medium-dark black with warm, brown undertones and silver sparkle. Using it with a dampened brush yielded the most intense, smoothest results, though the brand recommended “pressing” the eyeshadow “with your fingertip” to get to the “desired sparkling intensity” (read: buildable). When used dry, it had more medium, buildable coverage and was more prone to having sparkle fallout during application. Applied with fingertips, it seemed to yield similar results as using it dry–buildable coverage and shimmer. It wore well for eight and a half hours on me.
FURTHER READING: Formula Overview for details on general performance and characteristics (like scent).
Top Dupes
- NARS Smash It Up (LE, $25.00) is lighter, cooler (95% similar).
- Dior Eternal Gold #5 (LE, ) is cooler (95% similar).
- City Color Oh So Naughty (P, $6.99) is darker (95% similar).
- Melt Cosmetics Gun Metal (PiP, ) is more shimmery, lighter (95% similar).
- Anastasia Midnight (P, $12.00) is darker (95% similar).
- ColourPop Revenge (Misunderstood) (LE, $4.50) is less shimmery (95% similar).
- Tom Ford Beauty Black Oyster (Cream) (LE, $45.00) is more shimmery, lighter (95% similar).
- Natasha Denona Full Metal Black (LE, $28.00) is less shimmery, cooler (90% similar).
- Victoria Beckham Beauty Onyx (P, $36.00) is less shimmery, cooler (90% similar).
- ColourPop Raven (LE, $6.00) is darker (90% similar).
Formula Overview
$25.00/0.04 oz. - $625.00 Per Ounce
Pat McGrath's eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be "super-saturated" with "creamy, soft textures" and "extreme blendability and adherence without creasing." A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.
The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow--I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I'm not sure they're as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash--I wish it really locked in, but there's definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it's within 2mm of the base.
The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.
Browse all of our Pat McGrath EYEdols Eyeshadow swatches.
Black Metal
PiPPermanent in Palette. $25.00.
Blitz Amethyst
Blitz Amethyst is a medium-dark, silvery purple with a warmer, almost olive-toned base and cooler, pink-to-blue shifting sparkle. The consistency was looser and drier to the touch, and it did not apply too easily to the lid using a brush (dry) or fingertip (as recommended) as there was quite a bit of fallout. It applied much more smoothly when I used a dampened brush (even just using water), and I think if one wanted to really pack on the sparkle, then patting a second layer over the first with a fingertip worked fine. It wore well for eight hours and had a bit of fallout.
FURTHER READING: Formula Overview for details on general performance and characteristics (like scent).
Top Dupes
- MAC Fathoms Deep (P, $20.00) is more shimmery (95% similar).
- MAC Get Physical (LE, $18.00) is lighter, brighter, warmer (90% similar).
- MAC Feel the Fever (LE, $18.00) is lighter (95% similar).
- Moira Nimbus (P, $7.50) is less shimmery, darker (90% similar).
- Huda Beauty Jaguar #5 (LE, ) is lighter (90% similar).
- MAC Grand Galaxy (P, $20.00) is lighter, brighter (90% similar).
- Sydney Grace Inertia (P, $6.25) is darker, cooler (90% similar).
- Marc Jacobs Beauty About Last Night No. 11 (LE, ) is less shimmery, darker (90% similar).
- MAC Panthertized (P, $22.00) is more shimmery, darker (90% similar).
- Ciate Own It (LE, ) is less shimmery, darker (90% similar).
Formula Overview
$25.00/0.04 oz. - $625.00 Per Ounce
Pat McGrath's eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be "super-saturated" with "creamy, soft textures" and "extreme blendability and adherence without creasing." A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.
The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow--I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I'm not sure they're as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash--I wish it really locked in, but there's definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it's within 2mm of the base.
The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.
Browse all of our Pat McGrath EYEdols Eyeshadow swatches.
Looks Using this Product
Blitz Amethyst
PiPPermanent in Palette. $25.00.
Astral Ghost Orchid
Astral Ghost Orchid is a silvery white base with pink-to-violet shifting sparkle. Per the brand, it is recommended to apply it “with the fingertip for colour-morphing, sultry shine” until the “desired effect” (read: buildable) is achieved. It’s a sheer, sparkling shade, and the duochrome shift made it “colour-morphing” when layered over something else. When I tried applying it with a dampened brush, it had more semi-sheer coverage, but it had medium, buildable coverage applied with a fingertip–I preferred applying with a brush first and then patting a bit more on top with my fingertip for higher coverage and greater sparkle. It wore well for eight hours on me but had some fallout over time if I did not use it with a dampened brush or over an adhesive base.
FURTHER READING: Formula Overview for details on general performance and characteristics (like scent).
Top Dupes
- Make Up For Ever D868 Crystalline Pink (DC, $21.00) is darker (95% similar).
- L'Oreal Strawberry Blonde (LE, $7.99) is less shimmery (90% similar).
- Chanel Tisse Rhapsodie #2 (LE, ) is brighter, cooler (90% similar).
- Dior Jardin #4 (PiP, ) is warmer (90% similar).
- Ciate Baby (LE, ) is less shimmery, lighter (90% similar).
- Too Faced Sugar Coated (LE, $16.00) is warmer (90% similar).
- Dior Rose Garden #3 (LE, ) is more shimmery, darker (90% similar).
- ColourPop Hope (LE, $6.00) is more shimmery, cooler (90% similar).
- Shiseido Mist (WT 901) (P, $25.00) is more shimmery, darker, warmer (85% similar).
- Chanel Signe Particulier #1 (LE, ) is less shimmery, cooler (85% similar).
Formula Overview
$25.00/0.04 oz. - $625.00 Per Ounce
Pat McGrath's eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be "super-saturated" with "creamy, soft textures" and "extreme blendability and adherence without creasing." A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.
The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow--I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I'm not sure they're as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash--I wish it really locked in, but there's definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it's within 2mm of the base.
The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.
Browse all of our Pat McGrath EYEdols Eyeshadow swatches.
Why did I allow my eyes to peruse this before I make my VIB 20% after midnight purchase of ND Lila??? Now I will probably spend the remainder of today driving myself mad with indecision! ?
Except; I do know that I would be able to use Lila FAR more frequently and easily.
Honestly, the ND Lila palette is SO beautiful and so wearable, even in my very conservative work environment. These are beautiful but seem so much more editorial. I don’t think you’ll regret your choice.
I decided to grab the PML palettes. I work at a non-profit, but it’s an arts organization so I can get away with wearing things like green lipstick (I’ve done it 2x – my boss complimented one of the ones I wore, lol) and hot pink and gold glittery eyeshadow (I’ve also done this, lol). As long as I keep it more conservative during board meetings, my boss doesn’t care.
But I decided to go with the Huda Desert Dusk palette over Lila, just because there were more matte shades.
Nancy, what are your thoughts on ND Lila? I was considering purchasing it but now I’m torn between Lila and Pat’s La Vie en Rose
I don’t understand why this pallete is so expensive, the colors are cool but I don’t se myself reaching for them on a daily basis. For a makeup artist I think this would be an amazing addition!
Pat McGrath is considered to be the most influential makeup artist in the world. A lot of the trends that have come along have been because of her and what looks she creates on the runway. So while the price is a hard hard hard pill to swallow, it makes sense given her legacy.
This looks STUNNING.
However… I think it could be duped with Colourpop eyeshadows pretty closely, with a couple of exceptions (amethyst blitz, sigh…)
I do love the Pat McGrath packaging too!
Wow, this is gorgeous! I think I can dupe all the shades, though. Thank goodness, because the price is too steep for my budget.
A very interesting range of shades here, some beautiful colours and a great rating overall.
I am not sure a palette of this size needed two blacks and I agree with you Christine, that you needed shades from other palettes to bring out the best of this one.
An expensive palette, so you would have to love most of the shades.
Thank you for the review Christine, your eye look is lovely.
How pretty, but for $125 it should be A+. Some of these shades are truly gorgeous. I can see myself wanting this, but the price completely removes it from my consideration.
That was my exact reaction too, Seraphine – for that price, a B+ isn’t good enough and it should be an A at least. With all of these really reflective palettes coming out (it seems to be the next thing to copy, after all the red-toned palettes), even someone like me, who absolutely loves shimmer and sheen, would be hard pressed to use something like this on its own or more than once in a while. But I sure love Gigabyte and Blitz Amethyst….wish I could get just those two and will have to check out the dupes (I’ve probably got some for Gigabyte).
That’s how I feel about ND Lila’s, which I’ve been craving. Honestly, my collection is so large that a palette only makes it back into usage rotation every once and awhile so I can’t justify $50+.
This is gorgeous!!!
I was eyeing the Mothership II palette.. but do you think they are worth it?
Hi Krutika,
At a $125, you’re really the only person who can answer that – it is a lot of money for an eyeshadow palette, so it will depend on what you like, what your preferences are, the value of $125 in general (for one person, that could be an entire year’s budget and for someone else, it could be a week’s budget).
Right now, it seems easy to rule out eye palettes. Maybe it was the big 69 last month. There is glitter overload for s.o. as ancient as me. Don’t really want to fuss around with diff formulas, diff apps. Too much Patticare for e/s most days, anyway. Turning into an old fart! Actually, surprisingly duped on this. Was stunned by amethyst blitz, but have fathoms deep and the CMH dupe. And so it goes, for most of the shades I like. Maybe a lip; will peruse your swatches/dupes. PS: your work ethic is showing!
Yeah, I feel like if I have to change my application process to accommodate a formula, that’s just too much work. 🙂
I used to love watching Pat apply shadow to models’ lids with her fingertips. So quick, yet graceful and effective. It was mesmerizing. I’m glad she released shadows where she names those that she’d apply with fingertips. Time to channel my inner Pat McGrath!
I have this one and the I in my cart right now. This is absolutely gorgeous. I had the II in my cart but the fact that it shares a shade (not including the black that’s repeated in each one) with the III made me take it out of my cart. I was hoping you would have 1 of them reviewed prior to the Rouge sale and you pulled it off somehow even with all of the other items in your list for review. Thank you!
Thanks for the review, was curious about these. Some interesting shades in here! Glad this is permanent so you can catch sales or collect gift cards
Not really into this or any of her palettes. They are pretty but don’t seem to cohesive. I’ve invested in several Viseart palettes but the main one I use daily is the neutral mattes.
For the price it should be A+ quality.
I prefer cohesive palettes as well. Why buy a palette if I have to pull in others from my collection?
Gorgeous – I especially like VR Pink – but these absurdly priced eyeshadow palettes are just so silly to me. Especially in the era of high quality indies, falling for pricing like this just seems bizarre. I understand the appeal of a good shadow formula, but at this price point even a shadow formulated in heaven itself wouldn’t be worth it to me because it’s still just an eyeshadow.
Yet clearly people are buying these and causing more and more companies to realize they can get away with these astonishing cost:profit margins because it seems like more and more companies are letting their palette prices creep upwards…
Pretty!