Monday, September 1st, 2014

Charlotte Tilbury The Rebel Eyeshadow Quad
Charlotte Tilbury The Rebel Eyeshadow Quad

Charlotte Tilbury The Rebel Eyeshadow Quad ($52.00 for 0.18 oz.) includes four shades that revolve around a green-hued theme. The quality was consistently high across the four shades with the more glittery shade having some fall out, but the pigmentation, texture, and application of the four were nice. This brand has been available (along with this particular quad) for awhile in the UK, and I bought this from Selfridges, but it will be available stateside at Bergdorf Goodman, Nordstrom, Beautylish, NET-A-PORTER tomorrow, September 2nd. Of the products I’ve tried from the brand, I think her eyeshadows are not just good quality but more unique. (In general, the line is high quality, but the shades are often more dupable than not.) Most of the pricing is in line with other designer brands like Chanel and Dior, but the quad pricing is noticeably lower ($52 vs. ~$60 of Chanel, Dior, etc.). It contains about the same to a little less in terms of product weight/quantity to other comparable brands.

The Rebel #1 is a golden beige with a frosted, metallic finish. It had good color payoff with a soft, buttery consistency that was easy to blend and lasted for nine hours before fading. Stila Kitten (P) is darker. Tom Ford Beauty Nude Dip #1 (LE) is similar. MAC Fabulous Three #1 (LE) is lighter. Too Faced Riviera (P, $16.00) is warmer. Divergent Humble Sheen (LE) is darker. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Rebel #2 is a medium, grassy green with warm, yellow undertones and a pearly sheen. The texture was soft and buttery, while it was blendable and nicely pigmented. It wore well for nine hours before fading slightly. Shiseido Sudachi (GR 619) (P, $25.00) is a cream product. Sleek MakeUP Fauna (P, $9.99) is darker, cooler-toned. Sleek MakeUP Evergreen (P, $9.99) is lighter. Makeup Geek Shimmermint (P, $5.99) is lighter. Fyrinnae Dragon’s Wing (P, $6.80) is brighter. Fyrinnae Are You My Mummy? (P, $6.80) is darker, cooler-toned. Sephora Collection Rolling in the Grass (10) (P, $13.00) is darker. MAC Golden Olive (P, $21.00) is warmer, lighter. MAC Humid (P, $15.00) is darker. Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Foxfire (P, $14.00) is brighter. Inglot #418 (P, $6.00) is darker. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Rebel #3 is a muted, olive green with warm, khaki undertones and gold glitter. It had good color payoff, despite having a texture that felt thinner–almost wet–and glittery. It applies fairly well for something with this much glitter, as a lot of the glitter binds with the base color. Also worth noting is that it appears significantly lighter on than it looks in the pan. There is some fall out over time (more than minor, less than moderate), though the underlying base color lasts for nine hours without creasing. Anastasia Emerald (LE) is less sparkly, darker. MAC Silver Sun (LE, $19.50) is lighter. Sleek MakeUP Fauna (P, $9.99) is lighter, less glittery. Ulta Sage (P, $10.00) is lighter, less glittery. Fyrinnae Boot Season (P, $6.80) is darker, less glittery. MAC Unsurpassable (LE, $21.00) is lighter. L’Oreal Golden Emerald (P, $7.99) is darker. Sugarpill Junebug (P, $12.00) is darker, cooler-toned. Inglot #419 (P, $6.00) is warmer, less glittery. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Rebel #4 is a deepened, medium-dark green-ish teal with cool undertones and a soft, pearly sheen. It had excellent pigmentation that went on very smoothly and was fairly blendable (but it could have been a little easier to blend out). It lasted for nine hours without fading or creasing. bareMinerals Dazzle (P) is darker. MAC Green Room (LE, $15.00) is lighter, more matte. Marc Jacobs Beauty The Siren #7 (LE) is bluer. Too Faced Sequin (LE, $16.00) is brighter. Urban Decay Damaged (LE, $18.00) is greener. Sephora Collection Midnight Swim (16) (P, $13.00) is bluer. MAC Double Feature #4 #1 (LE, $15.00) is brighter. Make Up For Ever #80 (DC, $20.00) is greener. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

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palette

The Rebel

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Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

4.5/5

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product

The Rebel #1

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

5/5

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Dupes
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product

The Rebel #2

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

5/5

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Monday, September 1st, 2014

Zoya Remy, Sansa, Yuna Nail Lacquers
Zoya Remy, Sansa, Yuna Nail Lacquers

Zoya Remy Nail Lacquer ($9.00 for 0.50 fl. oz.) is described as an “indigo with copper and gold liquid metal.” It’s an inky, blackened navy blue with lighter blue and teal sparkle. It seems like the “copper and gold” turns into a lighter, bluish-teal with the blue polish over/mixed with it. This was so pigmented–it was pretty much opaque in one coat, but the swatches show two. It was slightly thin but not particularly problematic to apply. Marc Jacobs Beauty Blue Velvet (132) (P, $18.00) is lighter, brighter, smaller shimmer. Color Club First Looks (P) is darker, smaller shimmer. China Glaze Little Drummer Boy (LE, $7.50) is darker, smaller shimmer. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Zoya Samsa Nail Lacquer ($9.00 for 0.50 fl. oz.) is described as a “deepest eggplant with gold liquid metal.” It’s a medium-dark, warm-toned purple with gold and copper flecks of sparkle and shimmer. It had mostly opaque color coverage that went on evenly and dried down to a shiny finish. The consistency was a little thin, but it didn’t run to the edges, thankfully. Chanel Taboo (LE, $27.00) is darker, different colored shimmer. Cult Nails Spontaneous (DC, $12.00) is less shimmery, warmer. Cult Nails Enigmatic (LE, $12.00) is darker, less shimmery. Zoya Neeka (P, $9.00) is cooler-toned, less sparkly. Butter London Marrow (P, $15.00) is less shimmery. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Zoya Yuna Nail Lacquer ($9.00 for 0.50 fl. oz.) is described as a “grey with copper and gold liquid metal.” It’s a dark gray with subtle warm undertones and a yellowed sparkle. It had very nearly opaque color coverage after two coats, and the consistency wasn’t too thick or too thin. China Glaze Concrete Catwalk (LE, $7.50) and Zoya Evvie (P, $9.00) have no shimmer, so they’re not very similar overall. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

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product

Remy

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

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product

Sansa

B+

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

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product

Yuna

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

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Monday, September 1st, 2014

Kat Von D Wolvesmouth Studded Kiss Lipstick
Kat Von D Wolvesmouth Studded Kiss Lipstick

Kat Von D Wolvesmouth Studded Kiss Lipstick ($21.00 for 0.10 oz.) is described as a “metallic berry.” It’s a deepened, berry-red with subtle, cool undertones and a soft, metallic shimmer. Inglot #293 Lipstick Cream (P, $12.00) is glossier, no shimmer. Bite Beauty Bordeaux (P, $28.00) is darker, no shimmer. Illamasqua Shard (P, $24.00) has less shimmer. Urban Decay Venom (P, $22.00) is brighter. Milani Chilled Brandy (P, $5.49) is much warmer. Make Up For Ever #13 (P, $19.00) is slightly warmer. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Studded Kiss formula boasts 10-hour wear with “one-swipe payoff” that “leaves lips supple.” Wolvesmouth has mostly opaque color coverage, but the natural lip color will come through slightly. The consistency was thin, lightweight, a little clingy, and applied with only a little drag/tugging–but at least the color went on fairly evenly. On me, the color wore well for seven hours, and the formula was somewhat drying over time. It had a sweet, creme brulee scent but no discernible taste.

The Glossover

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product

Wolvesmouth

C+

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

4.5/5

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Sunday, August 31st, 2014

MAC Diva Lipstick
MAC Diva Lipstick

MAC Diva Lipstick ($16.00 for 0.10 oz.) is described as an “Intense reddish-burgundy [with a Matte finish].” It’s a medium-dark, warm-toned deepened red with a slightly muted quality–it is a lighter and brighter burgundy to me–and has a semi-matte finish. NARS Charlotte (P, $32.00) is glossier, slightly redder. MAC Hearts Aflame (LE, $16.00) is warmer. MAC Studded Kiss (LE, $16.00) is slightly warmer. MAC Fixed on Drama (LE, $16.00) is cooler-toned. NARS 413 BLKR (LE, $26.00) is slightly warmer. NARS Amsterdam (P, $26.00) is similar. MAC Deeply Adored (LE, $16.00) is redder. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Over the years, I’ve had a lot of questions asking whether such-and-such new shade was like MAC Diva, but I didn’t have it to compare to–now I do! I’d love to include more reviews of MAC’s permanent range, but with so many limited edition products, I try to use the time between launches to focus on other brands and products. Diva had rich, opaque color coverage that applied evenly and smoothly. The consistency was lightly creamy; just enough that it didn’t tug much on the lips, but it still retained its more matte finish. It’s one of the brand’s more comfortable mattes, and it lasts for six and a half hours while leaving behind a reddish stain. It didn’t dry out my lips, but I wouldn’t call it a hydrating formula either. As always, MAC’s lipsticks are vanilla scented but have no discernible taste.

The Glossover

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product

Diva

A-

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4.5/5

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Sunday, August 31st, 2014

Chikuhodo GSN-03 Cheek Brush
Chikuhodo GSN-03 Cheek Brush

Chikuhodo GSN-03 Cheek Brush ($96.00) is a large, dome-shaped face brush made out of gray squirrel and goat bristles. The brush head is 48mm in length, 38mm in width, and 22mm in thickness. It had a total length of 190mm with a pinched, metal ferrule. It’s such a large brush for cheek products; I couldn’t see this being useful for blush or highlighter for most, and only if you apply bronzer all-over would this be practical. It’s soft, well-cut, and hasn’t given me any problems with shedding or dye bleeding through over a dozen washes.

The brush head is dense but feathery against the skin, with the base being denser and firmer, and then as it tapers and flares outwards, it has more give. I’ve been using it primarily for applying loose setting powder and pressed finishing powders.  The brush is well-weighted with good weight distribution, and it feels comfortable in the hand. The way the ferrule and handle are shaped, the brush isn’t prone to rolling off a counter/desk.

Chikuhodo’s sizing for some of the GSN brushes seems off–several brushes are a lot larger than the average is. Brush size and shape is always going to be a combination of personal preference, application technique, and face/feature size, but just know that this is the size of your average powder brush.

Chikuhodo GSN-01 Powder Brush ($127.00) is a long-ish, extra large, dome-shaped powder brush with gray squirrel and goat bristles. The brush head is 56mm in length, 43mm in width, and 28mm in thickness. It had a total length of 193mm with a round, metal ferrule. It is similar in overall shape as the GSN-03, just a good deal larger. It is longer, so it had a little more flex, and it wasn’t as dense as the GSN-03, which makes sense for powder application. I’ve used this for applying powder foundation, loose and pressed finishing/setting powders, and for general blending of face products as a last step.

The brush feels soft against the skin and moves more as one, so it feels like silk, when you sweep it across the face. I haven’t had any issues with the overall quality of the brush after washing it over a dozen times. It does take awhile to dry, because it is a larger brush (though not as dense as the GSN-03, it’s still moderately dense).  Like the GSN-03, this brush has good weight distributed and feels balanced in the hand, so it is comfortable to hold and use.  It reminded me somewhat of Hakuhodo’s J104, which isn’t quite as soft, but is a fuller, rounder, less dense brush.

Neither are brushes that I’ve fallen in love with personally, as the GSN-03 is too large for blush but too dense for how I like to apply my loose setting/finishing powders. The GSN-01 is larger than I’d like, and I really love my Make Up For Ever #128 for a large brush and use it for loose setting powder application.

The Glossover

product

GSN-03 Cheek Brush

The brush head is dense but feathery against the skin, with the base being denser and firmer, and then as it tapers and flares outwards, it has more give. I've been using it primarily for applying loose setting powder and pressed finishing powders.

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GSN-01 Powder Brush

I've used this for applying powder foundation, loose and pressed finishing/setting powders, and for general blending of face products as a last step. The brush feels soft against the skin and moves more as one, so it feels like silk, when you sweep it across the face.

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Saturday, August 30th, 2014

Louise Young Crease Brushes
Louise Young Crease Brushes

Louise Young LY13 Mini Socket Brush ($18.00) is a very small, tapered, slightly dome-shaped brush made out of natural hair. It’s very stubby and squat. The brush head is 6mm in length, 3mm in width, and 3mm in thickness. It had a total length of 178mm with a round, metal ferrule. I like this brush for smudging out eyeliner or applying eyeshadow on the inner corner or along the lash lines. I wish it was slightly more domed and less tapered, because the tapered point can sometimes be felt against the skin when you’re using it, but it isn’t too dense or too sparse, and it has a moderate amount of give, which makes it nice for smudging. It is smaller overall compared to MAC 219.

Louise Young LY38 Tapered Shadow Brush ($28.00) is a medium-sized, tapered crease brush made out of natural hair. The brush head is14.6mm in length, 5.5mm in width, and 5.5mm in thickness. It had a total length of 193 mm with a round, metal ferrule. It is more tapered than domed, so it is particularly nice for those with deeper creases or for someone who wants a more precise color application. I find the more domed, rounded crease brushes to be a bit easier to blend and diffuse color with, but more tapered styles to be great for initial application. It’s soft against the eye lid and area, and it retains its shape well. It is a much softer version of MAC 226 (although, the shape of the 226 varies a lot between batches).

Louise Young LY38B Tapered Shadow Brush ($24.00) is a slimmer version of the LY38 Tapered Shadow Brush, so it’s a slimmer tapered crease brush with a noticeably tapered edge (not rounded). There is also a 38A version, which I don’t have, but you can view here, which is in-between the width of the LY38 and LY38B. The brush head is 14mm in length, 4mm in width, and 4mm in thickness. It had a total length of 189mm with a round, metal ferrule. It is less dense and has more spring/give than the LY38, in addition to it being a narrower brush. It still has soft bristles that fit into the contour of the eye socket for more precise crease color application. It also works well for diffusing color from the outer corner towards the middle lid. My personal preference is for the LY38, as it fits my eye shape/application style better, but both are nice brushes and I really like that the same style is available in multiple sizes.  The one downside I noticed about the LY38B is that it seems to have more splayed bristles than the LY38–it doesn’t seem as well cut.

Louise Young has a fantastic brush overview on her website–it is a good way to see size of brush heads from one brush to another. In the states, Nordstrom carries some of her brushes, but the line is much larger per her site. I’ve had mine for almost nine months now, and I haven’t had any issues with them; all of them have retained their shape, are easy to clean, haven’t shed or bled dye, and haven’t gotten rougher over time.

The Glossover

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product

LY13 Mini Socket Brush

I like this brush for smudging out eyeliner or applying eyeshadow on the inner corner or along the lash lines. I wish it was slightly more domed and less tapered, because the tapered point can sometimes be felt against the skin when you're using it.

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LY38 Tapered Shadow Brush

It is more tapered than domed, so it is particularly nice for those with deeper creases or for someone who wants a more precise color application.

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product

LY38B Tapered Shadow Brush

It is less dense and has more spring/give than the LY38, in addition to it being a narrower brush. It works well for diffusing color from the outer corner towards the middle lid as well as for applying color into the crease more precisely.

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