Sneak Peek: Urban Decay x Jean-Michel Basquiat Collection Photos & Swatches
Urban Decay x Jean-Michel Basquiat Collection just launched with two eyeshadow palettes, one blush palette, three lipsticks, three eyeliners, and a few makeup bags (which I think may be all sold out). There is (was?) also a Vault edition, which included all of the products (except the makeup bags) within a box. Each of the palettes (along with the Vault itself) is designed to be hung on the wall and has a cut-out on the back for hanging. I just received everything late yesterday and finished editing photos mere moments ago, but I will do my best to get reviews up ASAP!
While Basquiat’s state approached Urban Decay to create the collection, the collection is not without concerns from those who have been drawn in and inspired by Basquiat’s work. Some of the artist’s supporters have expressed concern over the commercialization of the artist’s work (generally) and the lack of a model of color in the collection’s campaign, both said to be inconsistent with some of the themes shown throughout Basquiat’s body of work. A third issue raised is with respect to Urban Decay’s usage of drug-related names (like Junkie, Druggie, Bump, etc.) when Basquiat died of a heroin overdose at 27 years old and how those two can be reconciled. Others who enjoy Basquiat’s work are excited for the collaboration and the acknowledgment of the artist’s influence, along with the possibility of making his work more widely known. As always, we invite thoughtful and critical discussion and debate but ask everyone to be respectful.
Palettes look a bit patchy in quality, but I need that Post Punk eyeliner. Partly just ’cause it’s my favourite genre of music, but I’ve been thinking I lack an eyeliner that colour too!
I really want Anatomy liner! It’s been sold out, so I’m checking periodically to see if it’s restocked. If I happened on Gold Grigio I’d probably pick it up (if reviews are good) because warm neutrals are my basics, but as likely I’ll have most dupes. I hope these review well because this is such a creative project, I hope it works for UD whose releases I think have been up and down.
It’s not self on UD, I just bought it. All I’m missing from the collection are the other two liners and the bags. I’m hoping the other two are still available next week when I get paid. This collection and buying 2 extra pallets dorm Mother’s Day killed my wallet,lol.
Good to know — maybe I just hit the site at just the wrong moment. Thanks! (I hear you on the wallet strain)
SOOO glad you put this up so quick, I had these in my cart on sephora but thought about waiting for you to post something about it. I want a lipstick because of the cute case it comes in but that’s it lol. The shadows don’t look so great in wear but the liners look fun!
Everything I bought is amazing! I created a look with the Tenant palette and Post Punk and Vivid. Everything lasted all day except Post Punk began to fade out on my lower lashline at about 6 hours. Even so, at 10 hours, it was still visible. I found the 2 lipsticks I bought pigmented, moisturizing, and long wearing.
There’s a shadow named ‘Not For Sale’. Did nobody at Urban Decay see the irony??
Right… that’s what I was thinking. Honestly, I like the collection but my heart keeps telling me that buying it is the wrong thing to do. UD doesn’t seem toe enough be trying to show respect in the ads (no models of color) and hasn’t made enough of an effort to educate about the artist rather than just exploit his work.
I’m happy the model they chose is a fan of JMB, but I wish they would have expanded the campaign. Also, the UD history of glorifying drugs in general has made me slow down on the brand as a whole.
I agree with all you’ve said. Many of us have, for many years, lamented UD’s use of violence and drug related names. It’s not really “edgy”, it’s not chic, it’s not clever and it’s time for them to scale back entirely on this. The irony, given Basquiat’s death, is very unpleasant but for many of us, it’s been an issue for years. That models of colour were excluded – another surprisingly telling oversight on UD’s part. If nothing else, I’d have thought they’d have been a bit more marketing-savvy in this regard.
I was just thinking that…. normal buyers would be confused… makeup addicts are too deep in this sh*t and will not even take a second d look before putting it in the bag lol
I have the Tenant palette and Boom, Exu, and 1960 have turned out to be pretty amazing for me. Neo and Les, otoh, less so. Looking at your swatches, I kind of want the liners now, too.
It seems like UD put a lot of thought and effort into this and has put out some really nice products. I was afraid that they’d allow their recent quality control issues to bleed into this collection. Overall that doesn’t seem to be the case, though, so to me that says they were at least trying to show respect to Basquiat’s work and memory. I’m definitely side-eyeing the lack of WOC in the marketing campaign, however.
Ok so yay – happy to see that there’s more consistency in this collection from UD! I only bought Tenant, 2 lippies, and 2 liners (basically I skipped the warm tones) but our swatches look pretty close this time.
I heard all the kerfuffle (you really rarely get to use that word) about the collection re: the artist and the brand. BUT when I learned that it was his family that contacted UD about doing the collection and had a hand in it, well IMO who is anyone else to say then? If it was the family’s idea and they approve, that should be paramount. IMO UD created a lovely tribute to the artist.
I totally agree. The fact that the estate went to urban and not the other way around should have some weight.
I skipped this collection because of all the reasons you noted. It also really disappoints me that the lone blush palette, in a collection inspired by Basquiat, will only work on fair skinned people. So much irony.
I saw a YouTube review by a black vlogger and she claimed the blush palette was pretty brown girl friendly.
Thanks Natasha for pointing that out. The pale pink and the brown will definitely not work for my skintone. But hopefully there are some brown girls who will be able to enjoy the palette and I hope all my fair skinned sisters who purchase it will love it. I just think there could have maybe been 2 blush palettes.
While, yes, this collection is certainly controversial in the sense that it’s UD being the manufacturer when far too many of their product names have offensive drug related names, I still intend on buying at least Tenant, Post Punk, and Abstract lipstick. But it DOES bother me. At 2 months shy of same age that Jean-Michel Basquiat died, my own life was likely saved from a similar fate. Upon learning that I was pregnant with my son, I quit using cold turkey. Been clean ever since. Hence, I feel acutely the painful irony of UD being the brand chosen.
Congrats on getting and staying clean, Nancy! <3 <3
Thank you, Christine. It wasn’t easy, but I had the most powerful of incentives att: Kyle. ?
Nancy, thank you for sharing your success story with all of us! It is so encouraging! I always like to read your comments. I find them very inciteful. Have a wonderful day!
Jessica, my wish is that there was no reason for this type of success, nor reason for anyone to succumb to the most dire of consequences of this plague that far too often destroys or wipes out young lives. Sometimes, not so young lives, too.
So so proud to call you my friend, Nancy! Sobriety is a choice you make every single day. And you made an amazing courageous choice!
Aw, thank you, Shannon! In this case, it would seem that considering the fact that I had such serious fertility issues, that the choice was given to me wrapped in the stuff of my seemingly impossible dream: having a child. I cannot help but believe it was divine intervention. That pregnancy motivated me to quit and stay clean. ?
A very touching story, Nancy
Kids are the best motivation in the world, aren’t they?
Congratulations!! ?
Thank you for sharing such an important story Nancy! I always enjoy your comments on here and isn’t it funny how you feel drawn to someone and they turn out to have a similar story to you. I too fought addiction and have been clean for 2 years now and going strong. I find the sensationalist use of drug related words by UD a bit sad. But I do love lots of their products. I just wanted to comment because I think you set a great example by being open about this subject ?
Thank you Nancy for sharing your story. It is awesome that you made such a recovery and choice for your son. Proud to know you.
This seems like it’s a is improvement on previous releases. Still don’t think I’d touch it since his sisters seem to be selling Basqiuat’s legacy regardless of what he felt about capitalism. How nice for me that the colors that intrigue me the most I already have from Sugarpill.
Not a fan of the artwork, but overall, looks like UD did a great job with this collection!!
I won’t be buying anything in this collection, for the aforementioned reasons, but can’t deny I would *love* to hear about dupes for Epigram. It’s just a gorgeous lip color!
Got the tenant palette. Freaking love it! Especially the two blue colors, they are gorgeous!
The liners and lips seem the strongest to me!
I’m kinda torn on buying this. From a person of Haitian decent myself, i’m proud that Basquiat is being recognized but i also don’t want to support the capitalization of his legacy or rpomanticize his addictions. But i believe that this collection is a good think. Not to celebrate drugs or to make money but to show future artists what you can become if you dream big. He started from humble beginings and all and all, it’s remembering the great artist Basquiat and not his faults. That and i’m buying it because of the palette Gold Griot because us haitian girls love our griot ?
His work celebrated and provided commentary on the realities of the black experience, and not only couldn’t UD find it in themselves to find a WOC to do this campaign, but saw fit to dismiss what was clearly an important part of his work and identity in their press surrounding this launch. No thanks, they won’t be getting my money.
The nude eye palette, and the cheek palette are my picks!! Very pretty!
I might pick up the lipsticks since the colors are very yummy. The rest I will wait for review and dupe information.
I snagged the Gold Griot palette, and Epigram and Abstract lipsticks when they got restocked at Sephora, right after I lost a bunch of lipsticks (ugh, I can name the colors). I especially can’t wait to try out Epigram, I don’t have any colors like it! I’m bummed I wasn’t fast enough for the vault. I don’t have any issues with references to drugs in Urban Decay’s other collections. I normally depot everything and put into z palettes, but I left my Pulp Fiction palette intact and it always inspires me when I use it. I look forward to being inspired by Basquiat’s art when I sit and do my morning makeup ritual.
Although I won’t be purchasing anything from this collection due to having too many similar colors already, I was just thrilled to see something that wasn’t mermaid, unicorn or Disney, but that still had great colors and packaging.
This isn’t the type of collection one purchases solely for the quality of the swatches/performance. It is truly a collector’s item for those of us who have an appreciation for the late artist. The packaging is absolutely amazing and is the best I’ve seen in years. As far as the quality, I have both e/s palettes and the cheek palette and think they are as good as anything UD has put out. I did see a comment where someone didn’t think the cheek palette would work on darker skin tones and I have to disagree. In fact, two of the colors, NOHO and Jawbone, will look better on medium to dark skin tones, IMO. Anyway, to each his own but I’m very happy that I was able to get my hands on these:-)
I recently saw an exhibit of his work(notebooks and paintings0 at the Cleveland Museum of Art. I cannot reconcile what I saw and makeup. I am not judging the estate or anyone ho thought this was a great idea. I think the colors are beautiful,but I will not be purchasing anything.
This is a very interesting collection – the lipsticks look to be very random shades, although they look quite good quality.
The eye palettes look to be the UD version of Kat Von D’s pastel goth. A couple of standout beautiful shades in each – Influence and Graffiti. Otherwise some fairly patchy mattes.
I always hesitated when it came to buying Pastel Goth because there were some yellows and green that would not work. When I saw Tenant, I felt it was similar but with nicer colors. And that is exactly what it is. I love it. Gorgeous palette and beautiful shadows.
My thoughts exactly, Genevieve – the eye palettes do mirror Kat von D’s Pastel Goth palette.
This is a really cohesive collection. I was able to try in store but limited myself to one lipstick only/epigram which I love (well, git 2 lipsticks but returned one). Tempted by the neutral palette but was able to restrain myself … so far. Can’t wait to read your full review.
The only thing that’s interesting to me in this collection is the ‘Post Punk’ Eyeliner…other than that everything else in the collection seems generic and recycled 🙁
Also severely disappointed that the ‘Electric pressed pigment palette’ is being discontinued. Grabbing myself a backup tomorrow since it’s on sale :/
I love Basquiat’s work, and I’ve been looking forward to this collection since it was announced. I don’t even really do collections. I have everything but the eyeliners and the bags. Bags were sold out within an hour or so of launch in the middle of the night, and I really wanted those. I hope they restock. The products are really good and the packaging is gorgeous. Epigram is so beautiful I bought a backup!
I think it’s a beautiful collection, though sad at the lack of WOC in the promos. Still, his family approached UD, and I assume signed off on everything. I’d be interested to hear someone involved explain that decision, though.
I love his artwork and was thrilled to hear this was coming out, so I got the lipstick in Exhibition and my hubby ordered the two eye palettes and the cheek palette as a Mother’s Day gift to me.
Oh forget about this brand and shades. I am waiting for you to review the pretty vulgar cosmetics and where it is made?
These swatches look amazing. Urban Decay never fails to impress me!
I will not be buying from this collection. I think it is beautiful and I think it says something that his family reached out to UD for this collection, but I do not believe it does him any justice.
1. The lack of Black women in the advertising. I realize this is a common problem across the beauty industry, but quite a few brands are taking steps to correct their long history of exclusion. Given that his family reached out to the brand, and surely they did *some* research into his art and political standing. The fact that he was proudly Haitian and had African heritage is not something that people sweep under a rug. That is deliberate ignorance.
2. Yes, UD has a history of “edgy” names. Yes, they use drug-related names for many of their products. UD’s team surely knew how Basquiat died. How they named several of these products isn’t a mistake. It is intentional capitalization and romanticization of his death. This coupled with rapidly rising rates of heroin usage in the past year or two… that is ignorant. It is just plain disrespectful.
3. I just am not of the same opinion that JMB’s family had his best interests in heart when pursuing this makeup collection. I do not think this collection as it stands reflects the principles he held when he was alive. I was SO excited when this was announced because I love Basquiat, but I just cannot be excited about this after what I’ve seen of it. Were Basquiat alive, he would have much to say about this, and not much of it would be positive, I imagine. For one, the accessibility of makeup period, let alone high end makeup like UD. The exclusion of Black women in advertising and inspiration for the color ranges. I could go on.
It is not an ethical, respectful, or well-thought-out collection to me. I’m ashamed that UD did all of this and did not think to honor his pro-Black, anti-colonial, highly political PERIOD legacy at all when creating this collection.
edit: I skimmed over the names too quickly (been a very long day and it is 4:30am…yikes) and my eyes took the examples of UD’s drug-related names and mentally pasted them onto the products of this collections names. Regardless, I do not see how the two can be reconciled tbh.
Thank you for pointing all of this out. I was unaware of it. I bought one item and was thinking to get another. But reading this, I have decided to skip it. It’s better to be informed even when the news is not good because we get the world we deserve when we give too many things a pass while saying “that’s just the way things are.” Again, thank you!
I’m in the UK and managed to grab the vault. I’m so pleased with the whole thing, the anatomy liner is absolutely amazing, I’m actually tempted to buy it as a single because I love it that much. I’m also obsessed with the highlighter in the palette. No regrets on this purchase from me!
Please let me know when I can buy these products as I’m studying a four year beauty therapy course in September. There stunning and a must have.
They’re already available for purchase at Sephora, Ulta, Macy’s and Nordstrom.
As a long time UD buyer, I can’t bring myself to buy anything from this collection for some of the reasons that you posted before and also because I reached out to UD about these issues and they said absolutely nothing. I wish more makeup lovers paid attention to what UD is doing in regards to the names of the products, the lack of consideration for those struggling with drug addiction, and the lack of representation of people of color is disheartening and speaks to what they are really after; MONEY.
This is a pretty big accusation you’re making, and I think you therefore need to back it up with some examples. I’d like to know how these items represent a lack of consideration for addicts. Be specific. If you’re going to cite shade names, please give some insight into how a name is disrespectful, and if you feel the same way about an item such as Becca’s Champagne Pop wrt alcoholics.
Second, Ruby Rose is currently the face of UD. Are you suggesting that they hire multiple models, each to represent every possible race?
Finally, UD is a for profit company. Of course they are after money. Most businesses are. I would like to understand why you feel they are obligated to do anything beyond run their business legally.
Christine – I’d appreciate if you would approve my comment for publication. If people are going to suggest that UD is acting unethically, and suggesting that people not buy from them as a result, I think they need to be specific and detailed and not as vague as many of these comments are.
Did you read what I wrote above? I noted three specific shade names that readers have had issues with from Urban Decay, and I also explained why some feel that a person of color should be the face of the model – the themes and nature of the artist’s work, but there is a slew of knowledgeable comments that are more detailed in this post, so I encourage you to read through the discussion.
There’s nothing wrong with disagreeing, but your comment is rather combative (and almost attacking) and not actually encouraging discussion and debate. Since each person has their own code of ethics and morals and what is or isn’t wrong or offensive to them, they are entitled to not purchase and don’t need to justify that to you or anyone else. I am not seeing any readers comment that Urban Decay is doing something illegal, and I see a lot of readers who are speaking for themselves – not for you, not for others. Many consumers feel that voting with their wallet is an effective way to show brands support (or disagreement) – if that’s not something you agree with, that’s cool. Some consumers want more from the brands they support and purchase from than just not breaking any laws.
I was responding to Chrissye’s comment, not yours. I’m sure given your insistence that people are speaking for themselves, not others, that you wouldn’t intentionally respond on her behalf.
But since you took it upon yourself to respond: I asked how the name of a shade shows disrespect to an addict – not for a list of the shade names; in fact, I specifically said I don’t want just shade names. I asked if “Champagne Pop” is insulting to alcoholics. I asked if the desire is for there to be multiple models representing diffeerent ethnicities, not why people wanted a black model (let’s not pretend by saying “person of color” means anything other than black). I asked why UD is obligated in anyone’s mind to do anything in anyone’s mind other than provide a quality product, and somehow your answer was that no one is suggesting that UD is doing something illegal(???).
As it happens, yes I did read through these posts – and you are confusing “knowledgable” with “opinion”. I asked questions that you can’t answer, and instead of admitting that, you deflect, and call my post “combative” and suggest that I’m asking people to “justify” their decisions. And this on a message board that is rife with people complaining about the names of an eyeshadow and insisting that UD answer for themselves. How ironic.
You specifically mentioned me, and I was responding to let you know that future responses should follow our comment policy along with pointing you toward some of the specifics you asked for.
Shade names like Druggie and Junkie can be considered glamorizing of a real problem that has devastating effects and continues to be an intense, ongoing issue in the US (but also globally). Some people don’t care, and some people do; some think it’s edgy, some think it’s offensive. I do not suffer from addiction, so I can’t speak from that perspective, but there are some readers who have commented on many of Urban Decay’s drug-related names over the years and how it bothers them due to having suffered from addiction or having lost or known someone who has (see reader Nancy T’s story, KJH’s experience). Basquiat died from a drug overdose, and this is why it is something brought up with this collection, though the brand’s choice of names has brought up regularly given their naming history (per biography.com).
Some have asked for a specific ethnicity to be represented, others have asked for a person or woman of color – and “person of color” certainly encompasses more than one ethnicity – readers here have expressed what they wanted to see in this collection and why 🙂 Basquiat himself was mixed (Haitian and Puerto Rican) so using multiple ethnicities certainly could have been one way to go about campaign imagery. Hopefully, someone who has spent more time with his works can chime in!
You brought up that Urban Decay was running their business legally and why would they be obligated to do anything more – that is what I replied to as no one is saying what they are doing is illegal, only those who are questioning the collaboration and how it was done. Given that Urban Decay is a brand that has used their cruelty-free status as part of their branding for years – that is an ethical position, not a legal position – it’s absolutely reasonable for consumers to care about whether brands align with their ethics or not. It’s certainly fair game to discuss it.
This is such a tough call. It is a legacy product, or heirs trying to cash in? I think if a consumer thinks in terms of homage, you can justify it personally. But, if you wish to put your money where your mind is and think this through, you will boycott the whole edition. Hopefully UD stayed away from their frequent drug references out of respect, for the Basquiat collection. Wouldn’t count on THAT being a trend. I would have liked some Haitian references, even ones I had to google. At least there was some NYC. As to the product, could have been better. The mattes? Nah. The color concepts, decent, but I do not have sufficient familiarity to agree they are representative of JMB. The packaging? Well, it definitely is collectible and wall-friendly, maybe a first. This actually is somewhat edgy. ‘With an edge’ may be UD’s tagline, but they have seemed very mainstream and tame to me for over a decade. As to the addiction issue, the problem is severe and no one is immune. I work with the public at night. Every week someone tells me they lost someone to recreational narcotics or pain pill addiction. It’s a total heartbreak. The MDs vastly underprescribe for very painful conditions and surgeries, due to the addiction epidemic. This is a deadly, serious, universal problem, that ought not be gloried or glamorized by makeup names. Thank you, NT.
Not going to comment of “propriety” of the collection… lots of good observations being made! I will comment the Gold griot eye palette swatches remind me generally of the wonderful Pulp Fiction palette, and I only hope the quality is similar. I loved that palette…