Pat McGrath Huetopian Dream Mothership Palette Review & Swatches
Huetopian Dream
Pat McGrath Huetopian Dream Mothership Eyeshadow Palette ($125.00 for 0.47 oz.) will work best for someone who doesn’t mind experimenting with application techniques, using additional products (like a tacky base), and doesn’t mind potential fallout if it means ultra sparkly goodness all over one’s eyes. This Mothership really felt like it was coming from more of an artist perspective than some of the past few palettes (like Divine Rose) that have been more user-friendly and foolproof to work with.
Three shades–Bronze Solaris 005, Astral Venusian Orchid, and Astral Amethyst Moon–have chunkier, slightly drier consistencies that were more translucent in base product, so they had a lot of sparkle, gave a particularly high-shine, almost wet, finish, but they were more prone to fallout during application and during wear (particularly during wear) than I’ve previously experienced with these formulas in past palettes. The brand noted that these three shades should be applied with a damp brush, which was how I tested and reviewed, but they really need a tackier base (like the IntensifEYES Artistry Wand launched with this palette).
I wouldn’t say it’s really optional; dampened with water gets you better initial application (less fallout, more coverage, and a more even layer) but there’s still noteworthy fallout while worn; the Astral shades in particular were enough to be mildly irritating (as in, I could feel things in my eye). I tested those shades applied with MAC Fix+, which is a common product people use to wet eyeshadows, and the brand’s new IntensifEYES Artistry Wand (review to come, probably) and had similar results with both, but they both minimized fallout during wear to the point where I didn’t find my eyes irritated at the end of the day. The Artistry Wand had slightly more tackiness initially so the product was less readily disturbed compared to Fix+.
Based on past experience with Astral shades, I really think that these should have been described as something else and notated as sheerer/translucent with amplified sparkle. If you’re someone who has found past Astral shades to be too sparkly or prone to fallout, I would imagine these would perform more extreme for you (in a bad way!). If you don’t mind fallout, like the shine and sparkle of Astrals in the past and tend to use a tacky base/primer, then you may love these for being more intense.
Ingredients
Looks Using this Product
Huetopian Dream
PPermanent. $128.00.
Skinshow Nude Xtasy
Skinshow Nude Xtasy is a light beige with soft, warm undertones and a metallic sheen. When really buffed out, the finish could look more pearl-like with less intensity, but it still had a fair amount of shine. The texture was smooth to the touch, dense but not thick or too firmly-pressed into the pan, so it picked up well with a dry brush and had good adhesion to bare skin. It had opaque color coverage that stayed on well for nine hours before fading a bit.
FURTHER READING: Formula Overview for details on general performance and characteristics (like scent).
Top Dupes
- Sephora Morning Freshness (225) (P, $9.00) is more shimmery, cooler (95% similar).
- Pat McGrath Skinshow Moon Glow (PiP, $25.00) is less shimmery, cooler (90% similar).
- Anastasia Boli (LE, $12.00) is cooler (90% similar).
- Dior Silver Highlighter (PiP, ) is darker, cooler (85% similar).
- Viseart Celestial (GPV2 #3) (LE, ) is more shimmery, darker, cooler (85% similar).
- Pat McGrath Galactic Glow (LE, $25.00) is more shimmery, lighter, warmer (85% similar).
- Makeup Geek Shimma Shimma (DC, $6.00).
- Lancome My French #4 (LE, ).
- Surratt Beauty Soie (P, $20.00).
- Natasha Denona Monroe (220M) (PiP, $29.00).
- ColourPop Mongrels (LE, $4.50).
Formula Overview
$25.00/0.04 oz. - $625.00 Per Ounce
Pat McGrath's eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be "super-saturated" with "creamy, soft textures" and "extreme blendability and adherence without creasing." A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.
The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow--I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I'm not sure they're as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash--I wish it really locked in, but there's definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it's within 2mm of the base.
The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.
Browse all of our Pat McGrath EYEdols Eyeshadow swatches.
Ingredients
TALC, MICA, OCTYLDODECYL STEAROYL STEARATE, ZINC STEARATE, DIMETHICONE, CHLORPHENESIN, POTASSIUM SORBATE, TIN OXIDE, DIMETHICONOL, TETRASODIUM EDTA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), IRON OXIDES (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499).
Disclaimer: Ingredient lists are as available by the brand (or retailer) at the time of publishing. Please always check product packaging, if it exists, for the ingredient list applicable to the product you're purchasing, or the brand or retailer's website for the most up-to-date ingredient list.
Looks Using this Product
Skinshow Nude Xtasy
PiPPermanent in Palette. $25.00.
Secret Eden
Secret Eden is a dusty, medium-dark pink with warmer undertones and a matte finish. The texture was smooth, finely-milled, and blendable, though it was a little powdery so I had to be careful to tap off excess to avoid fallout. It had semi-opaque, buildable color payoff that lasted well for nine hours before showing signs of fading.
FURTHER READING: Formula Overview for details on general performance and characteristics (like scent).
Top Dupes
- Huda Beauty Gratitude (PiP, ) is warmer (90% similar).
- Sydney Grace Darcy (Light) (PiP, $5.25) is darker (90% similar).
- NARS Sweet Escape (LE, $19.00) is lighter, cooler (90% similar).
- ColourPop Warm Hugs (LE, $4.50) is more shimmery, darker, warmer (90% similar).
- Sydney Grace Lolli (LE, $5.25) is darker, warmer (90% similar).
- Pat McGrath Rosewood Romantique (PiP, $25.00) is darker (85% similar).
- ColourPop Mixer (LE, $4.50) is more shimmery, darker, warmer (85% similar).
- Sydney Grace Trust (P, $5.25) is more shimmery, darker, warmer (85% similar).
- ColourPop Sip Sip (LE, $4.50) is more shimmery, darker, warmer (85% similar).
- Sydney Grace Darcy (Deep) (PiP, $5.25) is darker, warmer (85% similar).
Formula Overview
$25.00/0.04 oz. - $625.00 Per Ounce
Pat McGrath's eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be "super-saturated" with "creamy, soft textures" and "extreme blendability and adherence without creasing." A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.
The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow--I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I'm not sure they're as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash--I wish it really locked in, but there's definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it's within 2mm of the base.
The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.
Browse all of our Pat McGrath EYEdols Eyeshadow swatches.
Ingredients
TALC, PTFE, ZINC STEARATE, POLYETHYLENE, SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE, TRIETHOXYCAPRYLYLSILANE, HDI/TRIMETHYLOL HEXYLLACTONE CROSSPOLYMER, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, SILICA, OCTYLDODECYL STEAROYL STEARATE, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), CARMINE (CI 75470), IRON OXIDES (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499).
Disclaimer: Ingredient lists are as available by the brand (or retailer) at the time of publishing. Please always check product packaging, if it exists, for the ingredient list applicable to the product you're purchasing, or the brand or retailer's website for the most up-to-date ingredient list.
Secret Eden
PiPPermanent in Palette. $25.00.
Bronze Desire
Bronze Desire is a medium brown with moderate, warm undertones and a smooth, metallic sheen. It was richly pigmented with a smooth, almost cream-like texture that was denser and a little thicker, but it wasn’t heavy and still applied evenly, blended out well, and didn’t emphasize my skin’s texture. It wore well for 10 hours before fading a bit.
FURTHER READING: Formula Overview for details on general performance and characteristics (like scent).
Top Dupes
- Pat McGrath Cyborg Relations (LE, $25.00) is warmer (95% similar).
- Glaminatrix Second Skin (PiP, $8.04) is lighter, warmer (95% similar).
- Pat McGrath Dawn Fawntasia (LE, $25.00) is warmer (95% similar).
- Pat McGrath Naked Bronze (LE, $25.00) is more shimmery, cooler (95% similar).
- ColourPop Fuzzy (PiP, $4.50) is warmer (95% similar).
- Isamaya Cuprum (PiP, ) is less shimmery, darker, warmer (90% similar).
- Sydney Grace Arabian Nights (P, $6.25) is less shimmery, warmer (90% similar).
- Natasha Denona Star Bronze (139CP) (LE, ) is warmer (90% similar).
- NARS Isolde II (PiP, $19.00) is less shimmery, warmer (90% similar).
- Tom Ford Beauty Warm (Winter 2016) Eyeshadow #2 (LE, ) is less shimmery, lighter (90% similar).
Formula Overview
$25.00/0.04 oz. - $625.00 Per Ounce
Pat McGrath's eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be "super-saturated" with "creamy, soft textures" and "extreme blendability and adherence without creasing." A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.
The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow--I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I'm not sure they're as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash--I wish it really locked in, but there's definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it's within 2mm of the base.
The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.
Browse all of our Pat McGrath EYEdols Eyeshadow swatches.
Ingredients
MICA, SQUALANE, OCTYLDODECANOL, CALCIUM SODIUM BOROSILICATE, PHENYL TRIMETHICONE, HYDROGENATED STYRENE/ISOPRENE COPOLYMER, SILICA, DIMETHICONE, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE, TIN OXIDE, PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DI-t-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE, IRON OXIDES (CI 77491, CI 77499), TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891).
Disclaimer: Ingredient lists are as available by the brand (or retailer) at the time of publishing. Please always check product packaging, if it exists, for the ingredient list applicable to the product you're purchasing, or the brand or retailer's website for the most up-to-date ingredient list.
Look Using this Product
Bronze Desire
PiPPermanent in Palette. $25.00.
Bronze Solaris 005
Bronze Solaris 005 is a medium, golden copper with strong, warm orange undertones and a sparkling,, lightly metallic finish. It had semi-opaque color coverage applied dry and opaque coverage applied with a dampened brush; the latter was as recommended by the brand and the method I used for testing and rating.
The consistency was drier and chunkier, and I had to really buff and press the eyeshadow onto my skin to get an even layer of product, but in the process, I did have a moderate amount of fallout. The ease of use and texture were a departure from base 005 kind of shades, which have been smoother, creamier, and easier to work with using dry and wet brushes. It was best applied with a dampened finger, as I felt I was able to better press/buff with my fingertip than a brush but dry still had so much fallout.
This shade had more underlying color, so while I had fallout during application and some during wear, the base pigment lasted closer to nine hours on me.
FURTHER READING: Formula Overview for details on general performance and characteristics (like scent).
Top Dupes
- Chanel Intensite #3 (LE, ) is less shimmery (95% similar).
- MAC Gold Metalist (LE, $21.00) is more shimmery (95% similar).
- Linda Hallberg Cosmetics Ara (LE, ) is less shimmery, darker (95% similar).
- Natasha Denona Penny (259M) (LE, $29.00) is darker, warmer (95% similar).
- Urban Decay Strength (LE, $19.00) is warmer (95% similar).
- Huda Beauty Chameleon #9 (LE, ) is warmer (95% similar).
- NARS Palmetto (LE, $19.00) is less shimmery, warmer (95% similar).
- Natasha Denona Alloy (312DC) (PiP, $29.00) is darker, warmer (95% similar).
- MAC Objet d'Art (P, $20.00) is less shimmery, lighter (95% similar).
- Guerlain Gold Palette #3 (LE, ) is more shimmery, lighter, cooler (95% similar).
Formula Overview
$25.00/0.04 oz. - $625.00 Per Ounce
Pat McGrath's eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be "super-saturated" with "creamy, soft textures" and "extreme blendability and adherence without creasing." A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.
The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow--I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I'm not sure they're as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash--I wish it really locked in, but there's definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it's within 2mm of the base.
The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.
Browse all of our Pat McGrath EYEdols Eyeshadow swatches.
Ingredients
SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE, NEOPENTYL GLYCOL DICAPRYLATE/DICAPRATE, DIMETHICONE, PEG-12 DIMETHICONE, SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE, DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, GLYCERIN, POLYSORBATE 60, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, 1.2-HEXANEDIOL, XANTHAN GUM, CHONDRUS CRISPUS (CARRAGEENAN) EXTRACT, HYDROGENATED LECITHIN, SODIUM CITRATE, IRON OXIDES (CI 77491).
Disclaimer: Ingredient lists are as available by the brand (or retailer) at the time of publishing. Please always check product packaging, if it exists, for the ingredient list applicable to the product you're purchasing, or the brand or retailer's website for the most up-to-date ingredient list.
Look Using this Product
Bronze Solaris 005
PiPPermanent in Palette. $25.00.
Astral Venusian Orchid
Astral Venusian Orchid has a translucent, darker pink base that shifted slightly to plum at more extreme angles paired with chartreuse-to-gold shifting sparkle throughout. It was very sparkly, shiny, and noticeably textured, and the formula itself seemed drier, a little chunkier, and did not seem to have as much adhesion on its own compared to other Astral shades that have been released previously.
The brand recommended to apply the shade with a dampened brush, which worked to deposit more medium coverage that had some fallout and decent initial adhesion, but the fallout for the first few hours was noticeable (and irritating to my eyes), even though there was plenty of product still intact after nine hours of wear. The effect is pretty without using a tackier base, but the continuous fallout made it much harder to get away with using the product more “as is.”
I tested the shade for longevity applied wet (with just water), wet with MAC Fix+, and over the brand’s new IntensifEYES Artistry Wand. I found that the wear was similar with MAC Fix+ and the Artistry Wand with the wand giving slightly less initial fallout as it was a bit tackier. I did not feel like there was a big difference in opacity or how shiny/sparkly the end result was, so long as the product was used wet in some fashion (water or otherwise).
FURTHER READING: Formula Overview for details on general performance and characteristics (like scent).
Top Dupes
- Terra Moons Starburst (P, $8.50) is lighter, cooler (90% similar).
- Danessa Myricks Crazy 4 U (P, $26.00) is less shimmery, lighter, cooler (90% similar).
- Glaminatrix Gleam (P, $8.77) is lighter (90% similar).
- Give Me Glow Electric Unicorn (P, $22.00) is lighter, cooler (90% similar).
- Terra Moons Light Year (P, $17.00) is less shimmery, lighter, brighter (85% similar).
- Lethal Cosmetics Parsec (P, $16.50) is darker, warmer (85% similar).
- Danessa Myricks Bae (P, $26.00) is less shimmery, lighter, cooler (85% similar).
- Clionadh Enchantment (P, $12.50) is less shimmery, lighter, cooler (85% similar).
- Clionadh Lux (P, $14.25) is lighter, brighter, cooler (85% similar).
- Clionadh Sunbeam (P, $10.00) is less shimmery, lighter, cooler (80% similar).
Formula Overview
$25.00/0.04 oz. - $625.00 Per Ounce
Pat McGrath's eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be "super-saturated" with "creamy, soft textures" and "extreme blendability and adherence without creasing." A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.
The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow--I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I'm not sure they're as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash--I wish it really locked in, but there's definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it's within 2mm of the base.
The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.
Browse all of our Pat McGrath EYEdols Eyeshadow swatches.
Ingredients
CALCIUM SODIUM BOROSILICATE, NEOPENTYL GLYCOL DICAPRYLATE/DICAPRATE, SILICA, DIMETHICONE, PEG-12 DIMETHICONE, SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE, DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, GLYCERIN, TIN OXIDE, POLYSORBATE 60, HYDROGENATED LECITHIN, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, 1.2-HEXANEDIOL, XANTHAN GUM, CHONDRUS CRISPUS (CARRAGEENAN) EXTRACT, SODIUM CITRATE, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), CARMINE (CI 75470).
Disclaimer: Ingredient lists are as available by the brand (or retailer) at the time of publishing. Please always check product packaging, if it exists, for the ingredient list applicable to the product you're purchasing, or the brand or retailer's website for the most up-to-date ingredient list.
Astral Venusian Orchid
PiPPermanent in Palette. $25.00.
Xtreme Plum Noir
Xtreme Plum Noir is a medium-dark, plummy brown with warm, reddish undertones and a matte finish. It had nearly opaque, buildable color coverage that applied evenly to bare skin and blended out fairly well, though I found it wasn’t quite as effortless as some of the brand’s other mattes (including the two in the same palette). The texture was soft, smooth, and not too powdery nor too firmly-pressed into the pan. It wore well for eight and a half hours before fading a bit.
FURTHER READING: Formula Overview for details on general performance and characteristics (like scent).
Top Dupes
- Sydney Grace Sweet Tooth (LE, $5.25) is warmer (95% similar).
- Sydney Grace Maple Sugar (LE, $5.25) is lighter (90% similar).
- Wet 'n' Wild Bed of Roses #4 (LE, ) is darker (90% similar).
- Too Faced I Can't Even (LE, $16.00) is darker, warmer (90% similar).
- ColourPop Facet (P, $4.50) is darker (90% similar).
- Urban Decay Lannister Red (LE, $19.00) is warmer (85% similar).
- Huda Beauty Oud (PiP, ) is warmer (85% similar).
- Natasha Denona Soil (213CM) (PiP, ) is lighter, warmer (85% similar).
- Milani Heat is On (PiP, $5.99) is warmer (85% similar).
- Smashbox Miss Chili (PiP, ) is darker, warmer (85% similar).
Formula Overview
$25.00/0.04 oz. - $625.00 Per Ounce
Pat McGrath's eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be "super-saturated" with "creamy, soft textures" and "extreme blendability and adherence without creasing." A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.
The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow--I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I'm not sure they're as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash--I wish it really locked in, but there's definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it's within 2mm of the base.
The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.
Browse all of our Pat McGrath EYEdols Eyeshadow swatches.
Ingredients
TALC, PTFE, ZINC STEARATE, POLYETHYLENE, SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE, TRIETHOXYCAPRYLYLSILANE, HDI/TRIMETHYLOL HEXYLLACTONE CROSSPOLYMER, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, SILICA, OCTYLDODECYL STEAROYL STEARATE, ULTRAMARINES (CI 77007), BLUE 1 LAKE (CI 42090), FERRIC AMMONIUM FERROCYANIDE (CI 77510), MANGANESE VIOLET (CI 77742), TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), YELLOW 5 LAKE (CI 19140), IRON OXIDES (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), RED 7 LAKE (CI 15850).
Disclaimer: Ingredient lists are as available by the brand (or retailer) at the time of publishing. Please always check product packaging, if it exists, for the ingredient list applicable to the product you're purchasing, or the brand or retailer's website for the most up-to-date ingredient list.
Xtreme Plum Noir
PiPPermanent in Palette. $25.00.
Cosmic Bloom
Cosmic Bloom is a light-medium, coral-red with warm undertones and flecks of gold and pink micro-sparkle over a metallic finish. It had rich color payoff paired with a smooth, almost cream-like texture that had moderate slip and great glide over bare skin. The color adhered well, blended out nicely along the edges, and wasn’t prone to fallout. It lasted well for nine and a half hours before fading visibly.
FURTHER READING: Formula Overview for details on general performance and characteristics (like scent).
Top Dupes
- NARS Ignition (LE, $22.00) is warmer (90% similar).
- ColourPop Tis Firm (LE, $4.50) is less shimmery, warmer (90% similar).
- Rare Beauty Passionate (PiP, ) is less shimmery (90% similar).
- Urban Decay TBH (LE, $19.00) is warmer (90% similar).
- Give Me Glow Not You, Next (P, $7.00) is less shimmery, darker, cooler (90% similar).
- Pat McGrath Rose Gold 005 (PiP, $25.00) is darker, warmer (90% similar).
- ColourPop Cast a Chateau (LE, $4.50) is less shimmery, darker (90% similar).
- ColourPop No Flocks (LE, $4.50) is less shimmery, darker, warmer (90% similar).
- ColourPop Once and Floral (P, $9.00) is less shimmery, darker, warmer (85% similar).
- ColourPop Thank U, Next (P, $4.50) is less shimmery, darker, warmer (85% similar).
Formula Overview
$25.00/0.04 oz. - $625.00 Per Ounce
Pat McGrath's eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be "super-saturated" with "creamy, soft textures" and "extreme blendability and adherence without creasing." A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.
The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow--I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I'm not sure they're as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash--I wish it really locked in, but there's definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it's within 2mm of the base.
The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.
Browse all of our Pat McGrath EYEdols Eyeshadow swatches.
Ingredients
OCTYLDODECANOL, OCTYLDODECYL STEAROYL STEARATE, SQUALANE, NYLON-12, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, POLYISOPRENE, TIN OXIDE, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), IRON OXIDES (CI 77491), CARMINE (CI 75470).
Disclaimer: Ingredient lists are as available by the brand (or retailer) at the time of publishing. Please always check product packaging, if it exists, for the ingredient list applicable to the product you're purchasing, or the brand or retailer's website for the most up-to-date ingredient list.
Cosmic Bloom
PiPPermanent in Palette. $25.00.
Shockwave
Shockwave is a bright, neon coral with moderate, warm undertones and a matte finish. The product had opaque pigmentation paired with a smooth, velvety texture that was slightly thinner than other mattes but not powdery, so it had excellent adhesion and blended out well. It stayed on nicely for nine hours before fading and left a faint stain behind.
FURTHER READING: Formula Overview for details on general performance and characteristics (like scent).
Top Dupes
- NARS Danger Girl (LE, $19.00) is cooler (95% similar).
- Anastasia E4 (Norvina Vol. 1) (LE, ) is warmer (95% similar).
- ColourPop Frose (PiP, $4.50) is warmer (95% similar).
- ColourPop Wish List (LE, $4.50) is darker (95% similar).
- ColourPop Be Cool (LE, $4.50) is more shimmery, warmer (95% similar).
- Kaja Juicy Grapefruit (PiP, ) is warmer (95% similar).
- Juvia's Place Kogi (LE, ) is cooler (95% similar).
- ColourPop Making Moves (P, $4.50) is darker (95% similar).
- Pat McGrath Flame Fatale (LE, $25.00) is darker, cooler (90% similar).
- ColourPop Hoops (PiP, $4.50) is warmer (90% similar).
Formula Overview
$25.00/0.04 oz. - $625.00 Per Ounce
Pat McGrath's eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be "super-saturated" with "creamy, soft textures" and "extreme blendability and adherence without creasing." A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.
The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow--I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I'm not sure they're as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash--I wish it really locked in, but there's definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it's within 2mm of the base.
The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.
Browse all of our Pat McGrath EYEdols Eyeshadow swatches.
Ingredients
TALC, PTFE, ZINC STEARATE, POLYETHYLENE, SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE, TRIETHOXYCAPRYLYLSILANE, HDI/TRIMETHYLOL HEXYLLACTONE CROSSPOLYMER, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, SILICA, OCTYLDODECYL STEAROYL STEARATE, IRON OXIDES (CI 77491, CI 77499), TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), RED 6 (CI 15850), RED 7 LAKE (CI 15850).
Disclaimer: Ingredient lists are as available by the brand (or retailer) at the time of publishing. Please always check product packaging, if it exists, for the ingredient list applicable to the product you're purchasing, or the brand or retailer's website for the most up-to-date ingredient list.
Look Using this Product
Shockwave
PiPPermanent in Palette. $25.00.
Blitz Sextreme
Blitz Sextreme has more of a black base with fine, metallic multichrome shift that went from reddish-bronze to warmer orange/copper to antique gold to green. It had visible shift, even straight on, where the edges tended to look olive green-ish with a more bronzy center area. The texture was smooth, moderately emollient but not too thick, so it picked up well with dry and dampened brushes. The brand said to use one’s fingertips or a dampened brush, and those both worked well, but I had no issues using it with a dry brush. It had opaque pigmentation that lasted well for 10 hours before creasing faintly.
FURTHER READING: Formula Overview for details on general performance and characteristics (like scent).
Top Dupes
- Fyrinnae Venus Sunset (P, $14.50) is more shimmery (95% similar).
- Natasha Denona Dogbane (LE, $28.00) is less shimmery (95% similar).
- Terra Moons Sun Scorched (P, $15.00) is darker, cooler (90% similar).
- Terra Moons Sundazed (P, $17.00) is more shimmery, darker (95% similar).
- Sydney Grace Phoenix (P, $25.00) is more shimmery, darker (90% similar).
- Clionadh Sand Blast (P, $19.00) is more shimmery, darker (90% similar).
- ColourPop Decode (P, $12.00) is less shimmery, lighter, cooler (85% similar).
- Kaleidos Solaris (P, $16.00) is less shimmery, lighter (85% similar).
- Pat McGrath VR Sextraterrestrial (LE, $25.00) is darker, cooler (85% similar).
- Clionadh Forge (P, $19.00) is darker, cooler (85% similar).
Formula Overview
$25.00/0.04 oz. - $625.00 Per Ounce
Pat McGrath's eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be "super-saturated" with "creamy, soft textures" and "extreme blendability and adherence without creasing." A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.
The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow--I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I'm not sure they're as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash--I wish it really locked in, but there's definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it's within 2mm of the base.
The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.
Browse all of our Pat McGrath EYEdols Eyeshadow swatches.
Ingredients
CALCIUM SODIUM BOROSILICATE, SILICA, SQUALANE, OCTYLDODECANOL, PHENYL TRIMETHICONE, ALUMINA, HYDROGENATED STYRENE/ISOPRENE COPOLYMER, DIMETHICONE, MICA, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE, PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DI-t-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891).
Disclaimer: Ingredient lists are as available by the brand (or retailer) at the time of publishing. Please always check product packaging, if it exists, for the ingredient list applicable to the product you're purchasing, or the brand or retailer's website for the most up-to-date ingredient list.
Looks Using this Product
Blitz Sextreme
PiPPermanent in Palette. $25.00.
Astral Amethyst Moon
Astral Amethyst Moon has more of a translucent base with flecks of copper, fuchsia, and lavender sparkle throughout. It had larger, more textured sparkle compared to most of the brand’s other Astral shades, and it seemed a little drier, too, which resulted in fallout during application and during wear. I will say that I was surprised that the fallout during application wasn’t too bad–I expected way worse–but there was noticeable and definitely more fallout during the first few hours of wear than I’ve experienced previously with Astral shades.
The brand stated to use it with a dampened brush, which is how I tested longevity, but it was still a messier shade to use even with a dampened brush. It would not be ideal to use with a dry brush, and fingertips were so-so, as they improved coverage to more medium coverage but this shade really needed a tackier base to actually give it decent wear and minimize fallout. It’s one thing to have fallout during application–just do your eyes first!–but fallout during wear can result in irritated eyes. Even with noticeable fallout, there was still a lot of product that remained in place on the eye when I took everything off after 10 hours of wear, though.
I tested the shade for longevity applied wet (with just water), wet with MAC Fix+, and over the brand’s new IntensifEYES Artistry Wand. I found that the wear was similar with MAC Fix+ and the Artistry Wand with the wand giving slightly less initial fallout as it was a bit tackier. I did not feel like there was a big difference in opacity or how shiny/sparkly the end result was, so long as the product was used wet in some fashion (water or otherwise).
FURTHER READING: Formula Overview for details on general performance and characteristics (like scent).
Top Dupes
- Viseart Bonbon (LE, ) is lighter, warmer (90% similar).
- Clionadh Glaziers Mark (P, $10.00) is more shimmery, lighter, cooler (90% similar).
- ColourPop Fortune Teller (LE, $4.50) is less shimmery, darker (90% similar).
- Clionadh Amulet (P, $5.25) is more shimmery, darker, cooler (90% similar).
- Glaminatrix Lustre (P, ) is darker (90% similar).
- Viseart Interstellar (GPV2 #25) (P, ) is lighter, brighter, cooler (90% similar).
- Sydney Grace Magenta Dreams (P, $6.25) is less shimmery, cooler (85% similar).
- ColourPop Neutrino (P, $4.50) is less shimmery, darker, cooler (85% similar).
- Lethal Cosmetics Enigma (P, $6.00) is less shimmery, darker, cooler (85% similar).
- Urban Decay Spitfire (LE, $19.00) is less shimmery, brighter (85% similar).
Formula Overview
$25.00/0.04 oz. - $625.00 Per Ounce
Pat McGrath's eyeshadows are, generally, supposed to be "super-saturated" with "creamy, soft textures" and "extreme blendability and adherence without creasing." A lot of how well they perform (and to some degree, how they are supposed to be applied and marketed) depends on the type of shades, but by and large, the eyeshadows perform very much as they are described.
The brand released single eyeshadows in March 2019, and the shades have been consistent in quality, look, and feel. They are not removable, unfortunately, so one would have to depot like any other single eyeshadow--I tried using tweezers and lifting on several shades to no avail. The lids are held closed by a weak magnet, so I'm not sure they're as secure as most single eyeshadow compacts in my stash--I wish it really locked in, but there's definitely a magnet that pulls the lid down if it's within 2mm of the base.
The mattes are velvety, blendable, and dense without being thick or too heavy, and they have semi-opaque to opaque pigmentation where a little can go a long way with some of the deeper and richer hues. The satin and pearl finishes are smooth, lightly creamy, and firmer but not dense or thick with good pigmentation, blendability, and easy application. The more metallic finishes tend to be softer, creamy, and smooth with a bit more denseness and no powderiness. The sparkly/glittery shades are often designed to be applied wet for richer coverage or intensity, which has largely been my experience. Most of the shades last between eight and nine hours.
Browse all of our Pat McGrath EYEdols Eyeshadow swatches.
Ingredients
CALCIUM SODIUM BOROSILICATE, CALCIUM TITANIUM BOROSILICATE, NEOPENTYL GLYCOL DICAPRYLATE/DICAPRATE, DIMETHICONE, SILICA, PEG-12 DIMETHICONE, SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE, DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, GLYCERIN, TIN OXIDE, POLYSORBATE 60, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, 1.2-HEXANEDIOL, XANTHAN GUM, CHONDRUS CRISPUS (CARRAGEENAN) EXTRACT, HYDROGENATED LECITHIN, SODIUM CITRATE, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), CARMINE (CI 75470).
Disclaimer: Ingredient lists are as available by the brand (or retailer) at the time of publishing. Please always check product packaging, if it exists, for the ingredient list applicable to the product you're purchasing, or the brand or retailer's website for the most up-to-date ingredient list.
Definitely brings to mind the Divine Rose palettes, but I think you hit the nail on the head describing it as more of an artist’s palette. I got mine yesterday and I’ve had a lot of fun playing with it. I’m definitely glad I got the IntensifEYES wand for those Astral shades, and I have a few ideas of some tackier cream shadows I could experiment with layering them over. Once again, Pat McGrath produces a beautiful palette that inspires me to play and explore with my makeup, so I’m glad I purchased it. I think Blitz Sextreme is going to be one of my favorite one-and-done shadows this autumn!
Glad to hear you’re enjoying yours so far, Kate!
Same.. I received mine yesterday, the palette and the wand, and immediately started to play.
This palette wasn’t on my radar but if it was and I read that there’s enough fallout to cause irritation in the eye, it would go to my no buy list. I’m just not interested in experimenting with different application techniques to get a decent application. I’m all about ease of use when it comes to makeup.
That makes sense to me, DonnaL! I think some will love the palette – all that sparkle and shine worth the effort to do a different application method (or else some already do that normally with their shimmers!), but I can see it being less user-friendly compared to some of the other releases!
Well I have had my eye on this palette all day! I appreciate an honest review. I haven’t tried any of this brand yet, but chunky fallout is not my thang!
This is such a beautiful palette, and now I’m really glad I picked up the IntensifEYES Artistry Wand to go with it. I’m sure it will work well with other Pat McGrath palettes, but it seems like it was particularly useful with the Huetopian Dream eyeshadow palette. I’m curious to see what Pat comes up with for the holidays!
Ooh! They are just around the corner. I love her holiday releases!
This one really had the potential to be “more”. Don’t get me wrong, I do like it. But this is one I will only entertain the thought of getting when she does one of her major sales down the road. This has a strong spring/summer color story for me, so maybe next year?
What is a turnoff is the fact that it is, as you said, more of an artistry palette. Takes more time to work with, and lately I barely have the patience to even do an eye look at all.
I think this is more fun if you don’t already have DRI/DRII, but it feels like it’s in the same vein as those two (well, more DRII). The special effects shades are fun, and I can see myself returning to them, but I’ll definitely pair this with another PMG palette than use it on its own.
I was just contemplating mine… The only other mothership that I have is the Divine Rose II. I adore it. I’m just not happy with this one. I don’t need “wearable” or work appropriate, so I’m all about the out there stuff. This is hard to work with with how crumbly they are. Even when I think I have it tacked down good, I end up with a very noticeable amount of fallout. I just don’t think it’s as good as DRII. My top recommendation from her is actually the Celestial Divinity. I’ve put some miles on that poor thing.
Celestial Divinity is amazing! One of my faves for sure.
Christine, I’m sure you’ve answered this before, but whenever a shade has two swatches does that always mean wet and dry?
Hi Erin!
It depends on the product – it is explained in the Review FAQ: https://www.temptalia.com/review-faq/
I was disappointed with this palette based on the promos and the packaging (which I think is this best packaging Pat’s done thus far). I would have loved a true metallic orange instead of the Bronze Solaris 005 shade. And just a pastel blue of sorts would have really made this palette more “huetopian” for me.
I will say that looking at her special shades, really makes me want to get out my old MAC and MakeupGeek loose pigments. I bet you could get the same results with those pigments or by layering sparkly translucent base shades from indie brands.
I think Clionadh’s multichromes come the closest!
Forgotten Mac Pigments are really gems!
Sparkle in my eyes is a no go for me. I had to ditch all those Marc Jacobs Glam Glitter shadows because by the end of the night my eyes would be itchy and bloodshot. Total bummer.
Oh no!! Turns out some of the MJB ones have actual plastic (PET) glitter in them so I wonder if it was that 🙁
To my eyes, this palette is fairly similar to a few of the recent offerings by Pat, with a few exceptions.
I do like the Bronze Desire shade and I think the Blitz Sextreme shade is, in essence, similar to the reddish bronze shade in Maybelline’s Burgundy Bar (without the multichrome shift).
I think some will be detered from buying this palette because of your honest review about the application of some of the shades, re fallout. Thank you Christine.
Happy to help, Genevieve!
I think Blitz Sextreme is too similar to VR Sextraterrestrial. Would’ve liked to see a different multichrome included (especially since Pat was teasing the palette with rainbow emoji…where’s the rainbow?!).
Definitely bummed that there was SO much rainbow inspo in the beginning and then… no, not rainbow at all, lol!
I’m glad to see review and swatches here. This was never going to be a color story for me, but I still like seeing how things look and perform none-the-less!
Thank you for reading! 🙂
Well this is a pass for me. I love PMG palettes, but not only is it fairly similar to the Rose palettes, it sounds too finicky for me.
Yes, if you have the Divine Rose palettes, this feels more redundant!
Ugh, these close up pictures make me want this palette more than my initial impression. I can see the differences from her other EYEDOLS shades and each shade appeals to me.
Really excellent review. It very much helps me manage my expectations. The astrals took a long time getting used to and can sometimes be borderline too difficult or have too much fall out. I appreciate the tips on how to work with these.
What technique do you like to use with the Astrals normally?
I normally just use the astrals as topper colors, as an accent on a look, and the only thing that works from me for this application is to use my finger. I end up sweeping away fall out with a tissue with moisturizer on it, but there are definitely some sparkles I can’t get away which I try to slap foundation on, lol!
I also apply them to my inner bottom eye corner using a pointed synthetic urban decay brush, just barely tapped on.
I have also put some mehron mixing fluid on the back of my hand and mixing shadow with a fine point brush to do a detail spot (like a dot under the bottom lid) or to do an eyeliner style with a color.
In different situation, I’d like to experiment with an artistic palette, not minding for the need of different tecnique. But there are two points here to be considered. 1) it is not an innovative colour story at all. Yes, some shades have an extra sparkle, but it the typical PMG colour story, that the brand offers in many other, more user friendly palette. 2) guys, here PMG palettes are sold between 125€ and 135€. From this price point I’m expecting that all the shades apply seamlessly on their own, no matter of which tool I use (as for the celestial divinity palette. Is not perfect al 100% but you can really apply the shades without minding if they are wet or dry, with sponges, finger and different brushes). Instead here, not only you need specific tecnique for each shades, but, for avoid an eye irritation due to the initial fallout you need exactly an other PMG product (I don’t remember the cost, but I bet it is not exactly cheap). So, even if I like PMG and I own a couple of her product with I enjoy, this is a big no for me. Again, thank you very much for your honest reviews, I am quite sure that the most if the reviews from the rest of the beauty community wouldn’t emphasize these key points, which are the ones that really helps a consumer (one gets tired to hear that all the new releases are ‘stunning’, ‘groundbreaking’ etc )
My pleasure, Francesca!
If you have a setting spray, they can also double as an adhesive spray for more sparkly eyeshadows! I found that MAC Fix+ did a very similar job to the PMG wand. Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy also is a standard go-to for anything sparkly/glittery, though it isn’t as forgiving compared to Fix+ or the PMG wand (you’ll just need to learn how to use it and understand it doesn’t play well with mattes at all).
Couldn’t agree more. For 125 bucks, I expect perfection.
Hi Christine, thank you so much for your detailed, shade by shade, breakdown review of this palette. When I first saw this, it screamed my name since I am a neutrals kind of girl, yet it did remind me of the Divine Rose I & II. I have Divine Rose I and can’t bring myself to dish 125+ dollars on just a pretty palette. I watched a few reviews of this on Youtube and added it to my “wants” list, but after going through your detailed review, I think I will hold off for a while. I am not that experienced and can’t see myself putting in all the detailed work and effort every time I use this palette, to get the “special” shades to their best point. I also would like to thank you for the dupes part of your reviews. I always check those out to see if I have something similar already and I think I can do a good job of getting a similar look with my collection. Needless to say, your hard work just saved my wallet from taking a big hit. xx
I’m glad I could help, Daniela! If one of the reasons you like Divine Rose is for its ease of use, you’ll definitely find Huetopian Dream to require a little extra effort! DR is one of the most user-friendly palettes Pat McGrath has launched, IMO!
As mentioned under Kate’s post, I received my order yesterday. I am very much enamoured with the matte coral and I did a quick eye and layered astral amethyst on top.. so lovely!
The astral shades are a big part of the deal for me with PMG. I do not mind the extra work and appreciate your application review tips, Christine.
I think if you have super hooded textured eyes like mine, the astrals are a great way to add interest and light to a one and done (or any eye look) without raising texture and making eyes look crinkly and lacking in depth the way a shimmer can. For that reason, I appreciate their thin translucency.
I confess to feeling apprehension following the quick swatches post. The shadows seemed disappointingly understated. Now I have the product in my hands, I feel less trepidation and more inspiration..phew. These palettes are far too expensive to be second tier grabs.
So glad you’re enjoying your palette thus far!
Really nice to hear your experience with the palette! The coral shade is really interesting in this palette, and I normally wouldn’t go for this type of bright but it looks so fun to mix with the others.
Same, Kira. I find the shade not quite as bright as it looks in pan,. applies beautifully and blends perfectly. I’m wearing a lot of one and dones.. mostly midtone mattes, like the coral shade, smoked out. I like PMG special shades because I can add a bit of glitz on top without eliminating the receding effect of matte on my hoods. I’m finding myself grabbing a lot of shades I would not have even looked at a couple of years ago. I’ve always viewed oranges and corals as the enemy.. really, they are not as long as their balance leans towards red/pink instead of yellow. I like the simplicity and brightness it lends to my face. Aging changes everything and I’m strangely braver in terms of colour with the caveat that one colour needs to be the focal point. I don’t do ‘colourful’ looks.. just stick to one shade. Looong answer.. I’m chatty today.
I had decided not to get this palette after seeing the swatches, I thought I might buy it if/when it is on sale, but after reading the reviews and looking closely on the swatches I have decided not to get it at all, ever. Not just because of the fall out issue, but after thinking about what I actually use when it comes to colours. I have enough golds to last me a lifetime, I wouldn’t use the warm pink, nor the coral shade some of the other shades are so dupable, or at least near enough to shades I already have.
I am so glad I found Temptalia once upon a time, I have saved more than I have splurged since I started reading the reviews here.
Yay for saving some money!
I must add a thank you for giving your honest opinion on everything you review.
I just read in a blog I usually don’t read that this was such a good palette, and easy to use. I would probably be kind of sad if I bought this as my first PMG palette, expecting it to be a very user friendly, foolproof palette.
I rarely use my PMD eyeshadows and when I do I don’t read what they are called so I have (silly me) used the special eyeshadows with a dry brush and that sends me back to the bathroom with a cheek full of glitters, then I redo, with finger or dampened brush but am less enthusiastic. 😀
I do know it says on her site how to use the shades, and I actually know, but I’m like, oh! this is pretty I’ll use this with that and oh! Darn! 😉
My pleasure as always, Helene!
It makes total sense that some people just want to be able to use their eyeshadows in a way that suits their style, which may be more or less effort! Like I know some people prefer to apply shimmers with a fingertip and others, like you, just want to apply everything with a dry brush!
I’m so glad to see this review! I was contemplating this being my first Mothership because I finally joined the PMG bandwagon with Celestial Divinity and Eternal Eden which I love. I also have one holiday palette from a couple years ago with astral shades that I don’t think are as wearable for me day to day as the others because they are so super glittery. Because I don’t have either Divine Rose palette and I love purple, I thought, ok, maybe I’ll spring for it. But thanks to this helpful review I’ll save my money. I think the color story, more orangey than pink, is a bit off for my complexion. And the fact the glittery shades need so much work means I can’t see it happening. I passed on Divine Rose II, but I really wanted it and think it’s more “me” than this one, so I probably will wait to see what she does for holiday and maybe get DRII when it goes on sale!
There you go! Divine Rose II is a good pick in lieu of this one! 🙂
I really think the packaging and “luxury” image of the brand lures people into thinking these astral shades are good or special when what they are is actually terrible in terms of formula – lots of fallout, poor pigmentation, eye irritation, needs glitter glue – why is that not a solid F? The description sounds spectacularly horrible! Not only that, they are really unflattering to older, textured eyelids, and aren’t older people (mid-30s plus) often the ones who can more easily afford this price point? There is no need to go through that kind of suffering and expense when indie brands produce special-effect eyeshadows with similar looks, stellar formulas, little-to-no fallout, and no dryness that is unflattering to older lids. They may not be these baked formulas, but the look is the important thing. The Adept iridescent series, among many others, has the same, sparkly, magic look without the formula drama and underperformance. The PMG regular mattes and shimmers may be fantastic, but the astrals strike me as the Emperor’s New Clothes.
If fallout is a deal-breaker for you, I can see why you’d give them an F! I don’t find that the majority of them have lots of fallout, require glitter glue, and may or may not have sheerer/more opaque coverage (depends on the shade). I’ve actually been impressed by how much actually stays on in the past (without having to use them with an adhesive base).
Pat’s special shades aren’t regular shades, hence most of us refer to them as special. Given it’s her 9th large palette with these shades, most people know to use a finger. They don’t “work” as well with brushes without foiling or a using sticky base, which is why Pat came out with that wand. And I suspect you can’t use these particular shades to great effect without the wand. So rating them on a brush application (which works for other shades that do well with brushes) and not the wand application doesn’t make sense.
I’m glad the rest rated well, though.
Hi Valerie,
Actually, that’s inaccurate! Pat McGrath specifically stated to use a damp brush for the four domed-shades. The use of the wand is listed as “OR” by the brand. This is actually consistent with how the brand has marketed the “special” shades in the past. The brand updated their website today, so the relevant copy for other palettes reads as follows: “Metallic, glitter and chromatic finishes can be applied with a wet or damp brush or pressed onto the centre of the lid or brow bone with a finger.” I’d argue that this updated copy is “can be,” which reads less of a “must” but rather reinforces that the formula is able to be used wet and dry (from the general description).
I believe that for several of the past palettes, there was a more detailed shade-by-shade breakdown, though they weren’t always specific by shade, prior to the website update.
The copy for HUETOPIAN DREAM:
DUOCHROME SPARKLE
-With a damp brush, dip into the Duochrome Sparkle shadow and glide across the eyes to achieve more intense glittering iridescence – OR – apply the IntensifEYES™ Artistry Wand as a base and press the shadow on top using fingers or a flat brush to elevate and customise the finish.
GLEAMING METALLIC
-With a damp brush, dip into the Gleaming Metallic shadow Bronze Solaris 005 and mix to create a slurry, then glide across the eyelids or inner corner of the eyes – OR – apply the IntensifEYES™ Artistry Wand as a base and press the shadow on top using fingers or a brush to elevate and customise the finish.
Having used the palette now, I see why it rated like it did. The special shades are the driest I’ve seen in her entire range. They’re hard to work with without the wand. I’m actually surprised they rated as well as they did.
Hi Christine. I was waiting for your review. This looks very pretty, but hard to use, with the special shades. I have DR1, and will get a few singles from Sydney Grace, when the ones I want come back in stock, to use with DR1
My cat passed away today, I am beyond sad, and crying. I know you are an animal lover. I just wanted to tell you
I’m so sorry for your loss, Janice! 💔
PMG and a C+ for a gold. For that price, it’s a no.
This was my first Pat McGrath palette purchase and I love it so far. I used a load of Sephora points to get a 15% discount, so it was a least a little bit cheaper than full price. Maybe it’s because I don’t have any other palettes from PMG, but I love it so far. I also don’t mind that it isn’t super rainbow-y. I think it’s about as much colour as I can handle at this point in my life – mostly wearable, but with a few pops of wildness. I’ve been using it with UD Allnighter spray and not really having any issues with performance. I haven’t tried every colour yet, but so far no regrets. I’m now considering picking up Divine Rose I, which I had previously thought was a bit too boring but now suspect it might be just my speed. I had previously thought I’d pick up Divine Rose II at some point, but now that I have Huetopian Dream, I don’t think I’ll bother.
I’m glad you’re really loving it, Violet! I think some wouldn’t have been as disappointed if it wasn’t for all the rainbow inspo/copy the brand was teasing with, lol!
I’ve seen a lot of reviews about this palette that say it’s too muted and boring and more of the same – However, I feel that the brightness is there in her other Motherships and I feel this one really is for a more muted, toned down wearer – to an extent. The special shades are out of this world and the neon pink is definitely not a “work-appropriate” “every day” (whatever THAT means) type of shadow. I bought both the wand and the palette to add to my Mothership collection – and while, yes, it does look very similar to both of the Divine Rose palettes, I think it is meant to be marketed towards a different type of consumer.
I definitely don’t feel like this one is muted for sure! I’ve found that it is my least favorite palette from the brand because the palette on its own feels like it gives the same type of look. I tend to prefer the ones where you can get really different looks out of the palette (like Midnight Sun).
I just received this palette, and it’s beautiful. I don’t mind that it’s an artisty driven palette given that the last few palettes have been variations of a pinky-neutral theme, although Huetopian Dream is still rather pink-dominant. Really, my biggest issue is the inclusion of Bronze Solaris… such a boring shade with little pizzazz with a lackluster performance. I know gold/bronze is Pat’s thing, but it’s gotten redundant and it really hurts the wallet especially during these times, plus the dry spell we’re having with new releases. I don’t mind having to tinker and maneuver around with a formula if some performance is being sacrificed for extra dazzle or uniqueness, but it is such a sore point in this palette that I can’t really get over. This is still one of my top Motherships but it could’ve easily taken #1 if not for that shade, I’ll be honest.
I really don’t know why the texture of Bronze Solaris is so weak! Initially, I was like, oh, not really a GOLD GOLD, but then the texture just seemed off to me compared to other shades in the same vein.
Definitely would have been om my wish if I didn’t already have DR2. I love the super sparkly shades en i feel like this pallete has more sparkles then the DR2 but they are to similar to buy both :(.
Easy pass as nothing appeals to me colorwise on this palette and not what I’d expect for the color scheme based on the name.