really showcases rhubarb as a note, paired with other, more sour citrus, like grapefruit, blended beautifully with lavender as a softening undercurrent and ultimately framed by almond nuttiness and pine that sweetens over time as the tonka bean in the base comes through.
- top notes: lavender, bergamot, grapefruit, rhubarb
- heart notes: almond, fir balsam
- base notes: wood, ambroxan, tonka bean
The opening was full of bitter citrus–grapefruit and bergamot–but quickly warmed up with spice and more balanced sweet-sour from rhubarb, which left the grapefruit tangy, less bitter, and fuller. The change between bitter grapefruit to sweet, spicy rhubarb was like a flash of lightning, and it served as a powerful reminder why testing a perfume for more than a few minutes can be critical!
Fresh pine mingled with lightly spiced, sweetened the grapefruit-rhubarb blend after 10 minutes, and then there was a nuttiness that joined over the next half hour. The intensity of the grapefruit-rhubarb blend dropped after an hour, as the balsam started to come through more heavily. It grew woodier, earthier, and slightly green with only the last drips and drops of grapefruit-rhubarb. After three and a half hours, it sweetened with tonka bean and lavender became marginally more discernible along with a bit of nuttiness. In the final stages, the fragrance was more tonka bean and less of everything else.
For testing, I used half of a 0.7ml sample vial dabbed to the underside and topside of my wrist area on my left arm. I used an unscented moisturizer prior to applying the scent as this is also my swatching arm (aka, incredibly parched at any given moment) as I found scent did not hold well here otherwise.
It lasted for five hours until it was a skin-scent and about eight hours before it was quite difficult to detect on my skin. The sillage and projection were moderate with the sillage dropping faster than the projection after two hours of wear.
I really enjoyed the development of the scent on my skin, and it felt like a more approachable fruity scent–not ultra-sweet nor sour like lemon–blended seamlessly with other notes that created a massive backdrop that accented the different facets of rhubarb. It’s a fragrance I’ll keep filed away as potential for purchase, but only after I’ve explored the genre more thoroughly.
- 100ml for $180
- 0.7ml sample for $4