Xerjoff Uden Eau de Parfum starts off with lightly sweet citrus notes that soon blend with boozy rum, then sandalwood, and finally vanilla and musk. Worth noting, the drydown was musk-heavy, which was a strong shift away from the more citrus-leaning phases prior.
- top notes: citrus fruits, lemon, grapefruit
- heart notes: rum, rose, gaiac, sandalwood
- base notes: vanilla, musk, coffee
It opened with bright citrus–sweet lemons and bitter grapefruit freshly peeled–joined a few minutes later by rum, which warmed up Uden without taking away from the tang of the citrus. The rum was more noticeable about 15 minutes into development, but I could sense it lurking about earlier, and it added depth and body to the composition.
The sandalwood arrived about 30 minutes in and made it smoother, creamier, and softly woody, though the citrus remained noticeably at the top with both rum and sandalwood blending beautifully with the bright citrus notes. It reduced in projection and the citrus softened through the next half hour. Warm vanilla and sandalwood swirled around the fragrance after four hours before being joined by heavier musk in the drydown, where it had lost all of its citrus and rum notes by this stage.
For testing, I used half of a 1ml sample vial dabbed to the underside and topside of my wrist area on my left arm. I used an unscented moisturizer prior to applying the scent as this is also my swatching arm (aka, incredibly parched at any given moment) as I found scent did not hold well here otherwise.
It lasted for eight hours until it was a skin-scent and about 12 hours before it was quite difficult to detect on my skin. The sillage and projection were moderate with the sillage dropping faster than the projection after three hours.
I was enamored with the way it smelled for first few hours of wear, but the drydown wasn’t my favorite, which may have been attributed to the level of musk against the vanilla/sandalwood.
- 50ml for $275
- 0.7ml sample for $5