New York Fashion Week 2007 (Spring 2008) – MAC Backstage Day 8


Zac Posen is always about utter sophistication – and the look James Kaliardos created for Posen’s wheat and gold themed clothes was simple, urban, refined – and utterly unique. Using bronze, gold and taupe eye shadow powders, he created a crescent in the eye crease that had width and drama – and dragged all the way out into the browbone area. A little bit of taupe contoured the face, and pearl was dotted on top – and the lip was left totally nude. Powder was actually used to nude out the mouth. It was a quiet look – that packed a lot of power.

Makeup freaks wait all year to see what kind of wonders super makeup artist Kabuki will whip up out his vast imagination for Heatherette. For Spring/Summer, he came up with two looks; one was a black metallic sparkly eye socket with a heavy line of winged white eyeliner over it, with shine on the cheeks and brow bone – the other a very powdered white face with juicy orange lips and eye lashes so long they nearly swept the ceiling – all hand applied over hours. Realism is not what it’s about at Heatherette – fantasy is.

“It’s a 1930’s contour aerodynamic face,” is how James Kaliardos described his look for the Monique Lhullier Spring/Summer show. Using MAC Taupe
Powder Blush as a facial contour and on the temples, he created a field of high and low lights. Patina Eye Shadow was placed on the eye sockets and Pearl Cream Colour Base was dotted on the inner corners of the eyes. The focus; a silvery beige pigment powder whipped up especially for the show that swooped out from the brow bone out almost to the ears. A pale peach lipgloss was applied to finish the look. But not before the all-important concealer was dotted on lips. There was not one makeup artist was didn’t mention concealer on the mouth all week.

Sure, there’s been a lot of contouring this week – but generally the tanned bronzed goddess of Spring/Summers of yesteryear has been replaced by paler dewier skin – and in the case of Carmen Marc Valvo, it’s a whiter shade of pale. Tom Pecheux gave the girls nearly pearlescent faces, and the major focus was a sparkly white shine on the eyes and cheekbones. They practically glistened. On top of that, a doll-like (because colour on a white face looks doll-like) peach cheek and pale peach lips. We’ve heard the words “Madame Pompadour” this week, and that’s clearly the influence Carmen Marc Valvo was going for.