By John, Skincare Contributor
John describes himself as eccentric–you might find him having a conversation with himself or making “A Beautiful Mind”-like movements while doing so. He’s a stickler for accuracy, so you might find him correcting one thing or another! His goal is to answer questions and provide unbiased, meaningful, and insightful information.
At 21, he is an aspiring dermatologist and will return to school next fall to get those plans moving. John enjoys singing, playing piano, hitting volleyballs, playing video games, and chatting with friends. Some day, he’d love to try more adventurous activities, like skydiving and mountain climbing! Check out his blog, The Triple Helix Liaison!
2007 & 2008
John’s Journey to Fight Acne
I began following a regular skin care regimen about a year ago. At the time, I was experiencing quite resonating ideological and emotional shifts regarding school, my personal life, and relationships. They somewhat darkened my perspective and drove me to behave irrationally and impulsively, which lead of course to grave consequences and regrets. On top of all that, I had to handle my profusion of non-inflammatory and cystic acne. Consequently, I thought quite basely of myself.
The first photo was taken around 2007, when my acne was less cystic but still severe. The second photo was me in 12th grade (around 2008), when I started getting cystic acne. See how the right cheek and side of the nose folded as I winked? That’s because the cysts were so distended that they forced my skin to overlap. The camera’s flash does wash me out, so my condition appears better than it actually was. To make an extremely long story short, three magical ingredients helped to rid my skin of acne. In order of discovery, they include:
- Salicylic Acid: I first encountered salicylic acid (SA), a lipid-soluble aromatic compound, in the form of Step 2 of the Clinique 3-Step system (skin type 4). I began with the Clinique 3-step because it was cost-effective, reputable among friends, and Blair Fowler loved it. The system helped somewhat, but after a few months, my skin worsened. From what I now know, repeated exposure of the alcohol content present in Step 2 had irritated my acne so intensely that it overshadowed the alleged effects of SA.
- Benzoyl Peroxide: I turned to other products to use in concurrence with the Clinique 3-step. First, I tried treatments from Neutrogena and Clean & Clear containing 10% benzoyl peroxide (BP), an antimicrobial ROS-generating compound, which should have improved my condition drastically, but due to the high amount of irritation involved, only improved my condition slightly. Since some studies suggest that lower concentrations of BP work just as effectively as higher ones, without the additional irritation, I next tried the Acne.org 2.5% BP product. Unfortunately, the reduced concentration had no positive effect on my skin.
- Glycolic Acid: By this time, I was already familiar with Paula Begoun’s review website Beautypedia. However, I had never seriously considered using her products because one, the gaping conflict of interests was too impossible to ignore, and two, I hated that her products always received the highest rating possible. However, I was desperate. I purchased the 2% SA liquid treatment, as well as the 8% and 10% glycolic acid (GA) products. Within two months, my acne had been reduced by at least 75%.
My postulations as to why the introduction of glycolic acid, which is typically better for dry and mature skin, worked so well for my adolescent and oily skin include the following:
- Due to the long-term damages of having severe cystic acne, my skin’s natural ability to exfoliate had been damaged,and therefore, functioned erroneously. This is evidenced by the daily buildup of gunk or sebum that would come off in thick layers when I gently scratched my face in the shower. I’d include a picture, but that would probably be gross. Its consistency is best described as a hybrid cream-wax that was sometimes bluish and other times yellowish.
- Partly due to its low molecular weight and water-soluble nature, GA is quite adept at exfoliating the surface of the skin. For my skin, this meant thinning of the statum corneum (SC), which had that excess “gunk,” which in turn allowed for the SA to actually penetrate into the pores and induce desquamation at those sites.
- Furthermore, the new Paula’s Choice (PC) SA product is a better formulation than the Clinique product mentioned above because of the vehicle and penetration enhancers used. The PC product employed methylpropanediol and butylene glycol to enhance penetration. The Clinique product employed denatured alcohol and butylene glycol. Although denatured alcohol is quite effective at enhancing penetration, it is too volatile, meaning that it evaporates quickly. Once the vehicle becomes volatile, SA becomes significantly less effective. Not to mention that in high amounts, denatured alcohol is irritating.
- The GA, which reduced the excess sebum on the skin, also allowed for the BP to penetrate more deeply. As you can see, GA was the critical component necessary for effective treatment.
*Please note that though changes in stress level, diet, and exercise probably played major roles in the improvement of my condition, they are not addressed because they cannot be easily quantified and therefore, elucidated.
After my skin was basically clear, I set out to repair some of the damage done by my decade of untreated severe acne and lack of daily sunscreen use. There are two ingredients that have largely retextured, rebuilt, and refined my skin. In order of discovery, they are L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and retinol (vitamin A). Vitamin C stimulates collagen production while retinol, upon conversion to tretinoin—the active metabolite that the skin utilized, inhibits the expression of enzymes that break down collagen. So the therapy is two-folded. While these two fantastic ingredients exhibit several other beneficial properties, that’s for another time!
Check out John’s current skin care routine!
Current Skin Care
Right now, I have very oily, acne-prone, mildly-sensitive skin that is occasionally flaky and dehydrated in certain areas like around the nose, mouth, chin, eyes and between the eye brows.
- Morning (Face): Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Cleanser ($15.95), Paula’s Choice Moisture Boost Hydrating Toner ($15.95), Paula’s Choice CLEAR Extra Strength Targeted Acne Relief Exfoliating Toner ($18.95) OR Clinique Mild Clarifying Lotion ($12.50), MAC Lip Conditioner in a Tube ($14.00) OR Jack Black Black Tea and Blackberry Intense Therapy Lip Balm SPF 25 ($7.50), Paula’s Choice Moisture Boost Hydrating Treatment Cream ($19.95), and Paula’s Choice Skin Balancing Moisture Gel ($19.95) OR Paula’s Choice Skin Recovery Moisturizer SPF 15 & Antioxidants ($20.95) AND Shiseido Ultimate Sun Protection Cream for Face SPF 55 PA+++ ($35.00)
- Evening (Face): Paula’s Choice Skin Recovery Cleanser ($15.95), Paula’s Choice Advanced Replenishing Toner Skin Remodeling Complex ($18.95), Paula’s Choice RESIST Weekly Resurfacing Treatment ($28.95) OR Paula’s Choice CLEAR Extra Strength Targeted Acne Relief Exfoliating Toner ($18.95) OR Clinique Mild Clarifying Lotion ($12.50) OR Paula’s Choice RESIST Clearly Remarkable Skin Lightening Gel ($18.95) OR Nothing, Estee Lauder Nutritious Vita-Mineral Lip Treatment ($22.00), Paula’s Choice Skin Recovery Moisturizer ($19.95), Paula’s Choice RESIST Super Antioxidant Concentrate ($25.95) OR Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion PM ($65.00)
- Morning (Body): Blue Lizard Australian Sunscreen, Sensitive, SPF 30+ ($10.99)
- Evening (Body): Assorted Philosophy Shower Gels ($16.00) with Salux Body Cloth, Paula’s Choice CLEAR Extra Strength Targeted Acne Relief Exfoliating Toner ($18.95) OR Paula’s Choice RESIST Clearly Remarkable Skin Lightening Gel ($18.95) OR Paula’s Choice 8% Alpha Hydroxy Acid Gel ($18.95), Paula’s Choice Slip into Silk Body Lotion ($16.95) OR Olay Quench Plus Firming Body Lotion ($7.99)
If you have any questions, concerns, or opinions feel free to comment below on this post or contact me on my blog!