Loree Rodkin Gothic I Perfume Review
Loree Rodkin Gothic I is an incredibly heavy, dense scent at its opening, where it’s syrupy and vanillic but not sickly sweet and tickled with spice and gets slightly smoother and more buttery over the next couple of hours before the patchouli creeps in and becomes more prominent as the drydown appears, giving it a woodier undercurrent.
The notes are listed as vanilla pod, Madagascar vanilla, spice accord, Tunisian patchouli, and Indian patchouli (without a breakdown of top/heart/base).
The fragrance opened with a rich, boozy vanilla syrup that was thick and gooey before warm spices and a touch of woodiness tamped down some of intensity of the vanilla. The addition of the warming spices and patchouli give the opening a heady blend of dark, bourbon vanilla accentuated by spicy, sweet woods, but don’t let me understate it: Gothic I is an intense, dark and luscious bourbon vanilla more than anything else for the first hour of wear.
The subtle progression made it a more linear scent, after that first hour, and it wasn’t until the fourth hour that I felt the patchouli started to become noticeable enough that it was sharing space with the vanilla rather than tempering it. This gave the composition a more pronounced woodsy note, and it seemed more spiced and lush as a scent. Gothic I didn’t change significantly from here, though the spicy, woodsy elements came forward inch-by-inch as time went on until it was just ever-so-slightly more patchouli-driven than vanilla–more than 10 hours in.
For testing, I used half of a 1ml sample dab vial, which was applied to the underside and topside of my wrist area on my left arm. I use an unscented moisturizer prior to applying the scent as this is also my swatching arm (aka, incredibly parched at any given moment) as I found scent did not hold well here otherwise. It was long-lasting (over 10 hours and was still detectable as a skin-scent) with moderate sillage for the first three hours and then wore more closely following that as the projection dropped to being more of a skin-scent after four hours of wear.
Subjectively, it’s certainly my kind of vanilla scent–darker, richer–and paired with patchouli, which I definitely enjoy. I think I’d wear Gothic I layered with something that might not be sweet enough (e.g. something that is too earthy or too leathery for my taste), even though I absolutely love the way it smells after four hours (if it smelled like that sooner, I’d have bought it right away!). I’ve been waffling on whether this is something to purchase now or if I should explore some more vanilla-driven fragrances first.
Available Sizes
- 50ml for $140
- 0.7ml sample for $4
Yes. This is going on my list. I adore patchouli but it just doesn’t wear “right” on my skin, with vanilla though my chances go up. I don’t mind simple blends when they fit with my skin and this definitely sounds like it could. My only hesitation is the kind of vanilla. I like boozy vanilla, I like sweet vanilla, I do NOT like musky vanilla or that gross nastiness BBW sells as “warm vanilla sugar.”
Definitely did not give me musky vanilla! 🙂
I had to laugh at your reference to BBW’s warm vanilla sugar. I don’t like the smell either except in the body lotion, with the sparkles please, to use just on my legs. I don’t like it anywhere else but my legs. I recently went to look at it at BBW and couldn’t find it. Maybe they DC’d it?
Christine I LOVE all of these fragrance reviews lately!! You write about it so beautifully.
Thank you, Liz!
Same here! I click so fast when your email comes to me and head straight for the fragrance reviews! I am also looking at Vanilla fragrances, and this one sounds lovely and boozy! I will have to look into this one and the Diorama Vanilla. I appreciate the area in your review where you describe your thoughts….. thanks again!
This? I’m going to have to get myself a sample! Sounds yummy and a bit different from my usual scents.
I pretty much love all vanilla scents and am not that much of a fan of Patchouli so this might be good for me. I have an aversion to Patchouli since it was so popular back in the late 60’s and 70’s as a way to disguise the smell of pot so you smelled it everywhere and I just developed an aversion to it. I pretty much love all vanilla scents but I do like a bit of depth.
Do you have any vanilla recs, Deborah?
Byredo Gypsy Water -love it but the scent doesn’t last very long on me.
Killian Love Don’t Be Shy- wasn’t sure about it as a lot of the notes are very sweet but it doesn’t come across as sickly sweet on me and I always get compliments when I wear it.
Henry Rose Queens and Monsters- this is very sweet but not cloying on me.
Probably my most worn Vanilla is Atelier Vanille-Insensee. It is a pretty basic vanilla scent but it wears well on me. I can still smell it sometimes when I get up in the morning from having applied it the morning before.