How could brands better address their foundation shade ranges?
From a business/development standpoint, if the argument is “it’s too expensive to develop” (whether initially or at all) or “the market isn’t buying,” I would say why not develop mixers? It might take a little more expertise, which I’m sure many brands have, but would enable a smaller shade range to fit a wider variety of people. I think it might be more practical given that even in 30+ shade ranges, there are obvious gaps. Custom blending is a great feature but requires a local place to go-to and really well-trained associates who can match you in person, too.
From a consumer standpoint, I think it is good to point out lack of shade ranges to brands, but if a brand that had a limited shade range then releases more shades six months later, we could be more encouraging so it’s not a situation where they’re damned if they/damned if they don’t. Would it be better if they came out with 40 shades all at once? Yes, absolutely. But would I rather than dig in their heels and stay with 10 shades or expand to 20 in the next six months? Definitely the latter. It would also be nice to see, even if in a 10-shade range, that it’s across a spectrum and not leaving deeper skin tones out (some of the very limited ranges are nine across fair, light, medium and then one “tan” shade).
Your tan shade range comment is the argument I make every time about the limited availability of shade ranges (and I am Tan). Ending at human shade medium isn’t good enough. The consumer dollars are most certainly there, but can’t be spent if they won’t bring the items to market. The success stories of brands that do (think MAC, MUFE, even Bobbi Brown) shows the business sense in putting the effort into development. True development with true to life undertones as opposed to just darkening existing shades.
Mixers are actually a great idea, not only for people with deeper skin tones, but for people with rare undertone combinations as well.
I think this issue is most critical for both he and ds in major brands in diverse societies. And for brands with clear cut international followings. Arguably, brands with more targeted clientele, such as KGD, may have the ‘right’ to stay light. (Think heath insurance. Some docs don’t take Medicare or Medicaid, and that leaves out a big chunk of the population.)But the idea that KGD’ darkest cool shade is equivalent to nw15-20 seems preposterous. Despite baby steps to expand, many Asian brands formerly offered only ’21’ and ’23,’ and the latter is only light to medium. Kudos to the brands that have 30 or more shades, and want to facilitate everyone. The world is increasingly a global marketplace. Wake up, or get left behind. BUT… The cynic in me says individuals really care only if it is a ‘fit’ for them personally, rather than what is (not just politically) correct. It certainly seems that Individuals will put their personal choices over non-inclusive shade ranges. With their personal disposable income, I have noted conspicuously little ‘voting with your dollars ‘ and boycotting brands with restricted shade ranges, due to a belief in more diversity. Maybe we need to act more like the animal rights people, to make diverse shades happen.
Here’s the thing; foundation can be extremely hard to find, so I think voting with your dollars (while admirable) can be unfeasible for some folks when it comes to foundation. Personally, I am very fair with neutral undertones. Most brands don’t carry a shade light enough or neutral enough for me to begin with. To top that off, I have ultra oily sensitive skin that breaks out at anything that displeases it (and a lot of ingredients displease it). So, put those issues together, and I have found three brands that don’t break me out, two that have the right color, and one that actually works (nice finish and no oxidization).
I can’t vote with my wallet. I have only the one option. Fortunately I like the brand and it has a large shade range anyway – but my point stands. It’s not that simple when it comes to foundation. So, while I 100% agree a lack of diverse shades among brands = a huge problem, boycotting isn’t always an option.
Exactly. Allergic to everything. And every foundation is too yellow. Hence, KGD. And it is pretty silly that I am the darkest shade and an old, too white broad. Don’t think Asian countries have the same range of deeper skintones as the US, but there is far greater variety of cool, warm, and olive mixes, with everything in between than they produce. Just lighter! I like the mix-in business. Cannot avoid getting darker than the only foundation I can wear, come summer. People need to wear what they need to wear. I cannot vote with my wallet either. That’s probably why my inner cynic wins out. But I do feel that people put their individual needs above a concept. Not sure that Zoeva would be particularly inclusive, if and when they started foundation. They target a very Northern European market in their looks. But the US should be the standard bearer, as we value being the most diverse, inclusive culture. (But that does not mean I give up KGD, when it took me >2 years to find it!). No chem sunscreen, BS, or aloe, etc? Yeah, staying there. But I do feel it is a shame that people with my skin ingredient issues cannot get a KGD that would suit their skin tone… yeah, I do.
What is KGD?
Thea, I have the same problem: Sensitive skin that’s very fair with neutral undertones, plus it’s oily and oxidizes everything. There are only a a few brands I can wear, and I have to have a primer under those or they oxidize. I have white mixer, but that doesn’t change strong yellow or pink undertones.
And it seems like WOC have an even harder time finding matches.
I realize fiscally, brands want to put R&D money into what will make them the most in return, and not every brand can have every shade in every undertone. However, it seems to me that some of these huge companies — who seem to have the money to buy up so many other brands — could put some cash towards developing complexion products for those of us on the ends of the skintone spectrum and profit from doing so.
While I get your point regarding KGD, the issue in my opinion is more on the French based brands than the Asian ones. I’m another one of the very fair, cool/neutral folks who hunt just as hard on the pale end as our counterparts on the deep end, but I’ve found my best successes to be with Asian brands because they at least understand the undertone differences – though certainly no brand is perfect. Guerlain and YSL can do pale, but they’re far to yellow if you’re on the cool/neutral side. I was stunned that I found a match in the new La Mer foundation frankly; my only two successful matches have been Cle de Peau and Armani Maestro Glow (I used to be a Shiseido devotee, so I’m positive I could find a match there if I attempted it).
What I do find to be a positive step though is earlier this year Cle de Peau released a new stick foundation in 4 shades only (matching their concealer colors) instead of their bigger range of liquid foundations. They’ve now expanded that to 6 shades. While it’s a small expansion, it shows that they acknowledged that the market was there for the product but the color selection was too small. If the sticks continue to sell and drive interest for other shades, I’m hoping we’ll see another expansion for more tones. I hope it happens for KGD as well, but it’s a step at least.
At various times, we’ve heard/read of “The Jetsons” type of amazing advancements for living, and every few years it’s the magic machine that creates your own foundation color or hair color right in the store, no online ordering and no waiting. So where is it? Beats me. I know there’s a company where you can order custom color foundation, even with your name etched on the bottle, but there will hopefully be a day where you can get it quickly and in person.
We can mix any kind of soft drink cheaply at Taco Bell; why can’t we mix our own foundation color?
Sephora’s Color IQ tries to be this, and I have found success with it. But, there is no customization component. It only handles the first half of the process (initial color information and possible matches). It doesn’t consider brands that Sephora doesn’t sell, doesn’t take into account formula or ingredients, and doesn’t tell you what modifications are needed on an existing shade to match your skin. I really feel like all the tools and technology exists to have this Jetson’s reality. There are much more complicated processes that are automated and resolved with algorithms. This shouldn’t be this hard.
But foundation shades remain complex because of:
– Classism (whitening creams and the markets that emphasize paleness)
– White privilege (lighter colors is default foundation range)
– Brand exclusivity (X brand is only sold in Y store)
– Capitalism (the company would rather you buy two shades and mix them together instead of buying one shade that works for you)
Makeup advancements in shade ranges will continue to be primitive.
I hope self-adjusting color tech improves. I think it hits the sweet spot of something a company wants you to be impressed with, and actually being useful, to be a large success.
Lancome just debuted one at Harrods in London; supposedly there is one here in the US – my guess is in NYC at one of the anchor department stores.
I agree 100% with you, Christine. I know the expenditure to profit ratio is better in the middle shades and so many brands go there and never expand. They seem to be developing different types of foundation/powders etc. to meet the various needs of clients but not the shade range. Some brands, including drugstore, have five or six different types of foundation and only 10 shades within each type. My daughter has a unique undertone. Her ethnicity is broadly mixed. She has American Indian, African American, German, Norwegian, French and Irish. Her skin tone is very hard to match and after trying many, many HE and DS she has never been able to find a good match. She is forced to mix several different shades to get close to what looks right. We have tried mixers, etc. I actually think that for her it would be better to start with a neutral base and add multiple mixers to get to her perfect shade but who has the money or time to do that everyday. I know that there will never be shades within a range that cover everyone but come on lets try to get some shades past the middle of the spectrum. There is an untapped market for some company to step in and clean up with a more varied shade range and undertone range.
Mixers would be great — and it would be great to have them in green and yellow and other undertone color that we tend to forget about. I have the tendency to get matched to darker foundations because of the olive tones coming out of my skin that just clashes. Now I just use serum or sheer coverage foundations that won’t clash with my undertones. There are a million shades to “light, fair, medium, tan, deep and dark” skin tones and this often depends on the season. No two people are the same so it would be great to see customizations available for home use.
Makeup companies need to come around to the understanding that the Human Race doesn’t come in just 50 shades of beige. No. We come in everything from the palest porcelain or ivory up into rich, deep maroon-hued brown and even obsidian brown-black. I do love the idea of counters going back to having trained custom mixers that can replicate ones actual depth, undertones and hue properly, Christine. There were brands that did once do this! But alas, not currently. This lack of inclusiveness makes foundation buying an absolute nightmare for many of us. Myself included. I fall into the med.-tan end of the color spectrum. However, the undertones in almost all foundations at the proper depth run either very yellow or a strange looking rose-hued base? Problem is, precious few have a NEUTRAL OLIVE base. So far, I’ve only found 2, and it is far, far worse for those who’s skin is much darker than mine! In this day and age this shouldn’t be the case.
In the words of Nike: Just do it. It’s 2017. It’s not up to us to beg for inclusion and gently pat brands on the back for finally recognizing the diversity among their customers. I’d like to have choices, same as other women. But I also do my best to avoid spending money on brands that clearly don’t value or view me as their customer. I also seek out B.O.M.B.s as much as possible. Eventually, money talks.
If a brand feels that their dollars are better spent catering to a set of light to medium tones, don’t advertise that the products are universal. And dont employ a marketing strategy that also seeks money from persons of color. You don’t make products for me so you certainly don’t want my money, right? Also best not to go on about how the market doesn’t exist. WOC in particular spend a ridiculous amount of money on beauty products and that includes high end. Our buying potential has been studied repeatedly. If a brand doesn’t know how to tap into that, don’t use the excuse that the customer spending power isn’t there. The brand’s will isn’t.
What are B.O.M.B.s?
Black Owned Makeup Brands
That’s a SMH moment. I swear I’m not usually that dense.
If a company can spend thousands sponsoring influenster getaways and events, they can enhance their shade ranges with shades for all. Even if the quantities are limited to online or select markets only to test the response, they can do it.
I like the idea of mixers, but it can be time consuming for one’s everyday, get ready for work makeup, unless you premix your shade in bulk. Also that comes with a bit of practice to make sure your shade is correct.
You better preach! Forget Nectar Island and expand your shade range!
It honesty depends on the market as you go for the majority of the population.In the U.S. that’s White Europeans so the shade ranges make sense. I’m more for specialization than trying to cover everyone in one line.Mixers are a good option. Mineral makeup is better a catering to unusual undertones and they are expanding their solid options so it can be done.I’d like to see more brands that specialize in the very fair or very deep,different undertones,etc. I’d rather brands specialize and get it right than extend themselves too far and crash and burn.
I have a tan golden yellow slightly olive toned father and a pale porcelain cool pink toned mother so I have all the undertones which makes me more on the neutral side.Though different undertones will come out depending on the light.Drugstores often don’t go fair enough or they oxidize awfully and I know women with skin tones 2 or 3 shades lighter than mine. Department stores are better but are often not neutral enough of me.Just because I have fairer skin doesn’t mean I’m pink.I just don’t wear complexion products because finding on is a pain.
Try a look-see at Ben Nye’s offerings. I have the same issues as you and was able to find a dead-on match. I’ve also told others that don’t fit the standard shade ranges and they’ve been successful and pleased with the Media Pro HD Sheer Foundation. It’s similar to Graftobian Ultra HD Glamour Crème Foundation but I feel that the Media Pro is better. Great coverage from sheer to full and wears like a dream.
Huh I’ve heard of them but haven’t looked in to them before. I like light to medium coverage in foundations so I always avoided the theater type lines thinking they’d be too heavy.Thanks.
That’s why I use Ben Nye Media Pro HD Sheer Foundation. If you can’t find an exact match in this line either singularly or by combining two shades, well, then I just don’t know what to say. From the palest of the pale to deepest ebonies, you will find a match both in shade and undertone. Outstanding. You can either wear this sheer or all the way to full coverage. This foundation is incredible.
How readily available is Ben Nye? Ordering via internet is hit and miss for me with foundation. I have very fair skin but with yellow undertones and most cosmetic companies figure fair skin equals pink undertones. MAC, MUFE and bobbi Brown are the exceptions.
Claire Renee, the best place that I have found is Camera Ready Cosmetics (CRC) which is located in Texas. I live at the tip of the mitt in Michigan and have never had a problem with them. Very legit, very professional and they pack and ship everything so that it arrives in perfect order. The way that I matched up myself and some friends was to go to camerareadycosmetics.com and review their shade choices which are pretty good. They also have exact photos of the product that are excellent and have the option of purchasing a small sample and you can also consult with one of their staff via internet chat or phone. I am willing to bet that if you gave them some reference shades and what you didn’t like, they would be able to match you up. I also internet searched the shades through the product images from all the available sources and the first time out purchasing, I hit the match. Take a look at their shade choices and they also carry other Ben Nye foundation that may suit you better. The full size HD Pro Sheer is $18 per pan and it comes in a square black-based case with a clear top that opens like a compact. A little goes a long way, you don’t need much to do an entire face so it lasts a long time. Take a peek at the whole Ben Nye line while you’re looking because I believe that you’ll be impressed. There’s not one single thing of Ben Nye’s line that has ever let me down. I know people on this site probably think I’m nuts but I’m 61 years old and I have blown through a lot of war paint in my life and this is the best foundation I have ever used. Hope this helps and my wish is that your search for the perfect match is finally over because I know how frustrating it can be.
Claire Renee – french based brands like Guerlain, YSL etc. tend to be very yellow in their fair tones like Bobbi Brown. I can’t wear them with my cool/neutral undertones. Maybe that will help?
Companies selling makeup in the U.S. don’t just cater to fairer skin tones because whites comprise 60% of the U.S. population, they do so because fair skin has historically been deemed more beautiful and desirable. So it’s not just about the market, it’s also about diversity in the industry and who’s advocating for inclusiveness.
As a black women who has a deep complexion w/more golden undertone (NC40-45ish), I am astounded at how many foundation lines don’t have a shade that matches me or have shades for people darker than me. Another issue is that the undertones can be completely off – i.e. the deeper the shade, the redder the foundation.
I like the idea of letting the consumer have more control with mixers, but I have to say that coming out with a line of foundation that only has 8 shades or BB creams that are just “Light, Medium or Dark” ain’t gonna cut it.
Hey, Monica! I can certainly appreciate your frustrations but please give Ben Nye a good hard look. I guarantee there is a match for you without having to settle for something that isn’t just quite right with the undertone issue. Ben Nye is an American company, located in the United States and all their products are made in America. Believe me, they have covered everybody and nobody has been left out regardless of shade or undertone and they’ve been that way for years. I can’t shake a stick at how many foundation brands/lines and shades I’ve been through over the years trying to find that perfect match and blew a lot of money doing it. I discovered Ben Nye by complete accident a few years ago, gave it a try and never went back to anything else.
I agree. The other challenge many women of color have is our natural skin tone isn’t one color. My skin is very sensitive to products and will break out if it’s too windy (kidding, kind of). I finally found a brand that works for me, but I have to mix 4, YES FOUR, different shades for coverage. The center of my face is lighter and I have to mix for the perfect peach/yellow undertone.
Brands have to own up to their mistake of not offering a full range from pale to dark. As consumers, we have to be better at accepting there may not be a one shade in a jar/bottle for your skin and learn how to handle it. I’ve seen many women of color on the street that used one shade and it’s either too red or yellow and the one shade look gives off a mannequin vibe.
Exactly. This is a problem endemic to a white privilege society with elements of classism and capitalism. It’s not just a brand issue. It’s a societal issue.
I am surprised with MAC’s and their mixing mediums (and other companies that offer extensive ranges like Makeup Atelier), have not released a customizable foundation.
I’ve never found a foundation that can match my skintone. Not matter what price, ‘makeup artist’ lines, etc. They are too dark and too yellow or orange. Even when I’m ‘tan’ they are still too yellow. I know darker skintones have similar problems. It shouldn’t be that difficult to do a truly neutral tone. Drops & enhancers don’t work for this.
Oddly enough, getting a foundation match used to be easier! I spent years with Prescriptives until Lauder killed it. When the line ended at Neiman’s, the salesperson in San Francisco hand carried my formula card six blocks to Nordstrom, where it was still available.
Prescriptives may still be around online, as well another brand (Custom Color?), that custom-matched no-longer available foundation, lipstick, whatever.
I like HE brands as they flatter older skin, but I don’t believe any of them are savvy about color selection. (Looking at you, Armani.)
I LOVED Prescriptives! You can order via internet but not if you live in Canada. Grrrr…
3 Custom Color will match discontinued make-up, lipstick, blush, etc. for you. I’ve had dc’d lipsticks made there and custom cream to powder blushes. It takes a little time, but it’s hand done out of Provincetown, MA. I can vouch for the company and customer service and they make their products unscented for anyone who loves a color but can’t wear it because of the fragrance.
Armani, in my opinion, has gotten a lot better now that they’ve added in half and quarter measures for the foundations. It’s annoying that the numbers vary by formulation so you can get a #3 in Luminous Silk and know that you’re a #3 in Maestro Glow, but the company website breaks down the Light/Cool, Light/Neutral, Light/Warm, etc through the ranges so you can find the right match across formulations.
Prioritizing people, not money. 🙂 It is what it is.
Before Bobbi Brown came out in 1992 and MAC in 1994 we all had to suffer with foundations with either pink or garish orange undertones in the US. That was all there was! Sales assistants would try to convince me that the pink or orange undertones were preferable to “add color to my sallow skin.” I recall the first time tried a BB foundation that actually matched my fair skin with yellow undertones- IT WAS AMAZING! Other companies like Elizabeth Arden, Estee Lauder, Prescriptives, and Clinique soon followed the trend.
I think for less expensive brands undertone specific mixers make the most business sense. For luxury brands I see no reason they can’t make broader ranges of colors. That’s why so many American luxury brands like EL, Elizabeth Arden & Clinique remain popular worldwide- great quality that suits a wide variety of skin tones.
Besides the problem of lack of shades for deeper skin tones, and to a lesser extent for very fair complexions, I think better training for sales rep would go a long way. I’ve been matched with completely wrong shades many times at counters and beauty stores, and sometimes the match was so ridiculously off that I just didn’t know what to say. Like that one time when I was given a sample of the Too Faced Born This Way foundation in the lightest shade…
Finding the right shade is hard, so it’s not very helpful to have 50+ shades if the people who sell the foundation don’t know how to match it to their customers’ skin.
Absolutely Lulle – I have been mismatched so many times it’s not funny – and especially when the customer (me) is more informed about their products than the MUA….
I think they need to start by naming the correct tone meant for certain population. That’s where I spend most time deciding on the correct match. Although I’m usually the very first two ranges of colors which are supposed to be the lightest turns out many times the third shade is actually the cooler to match my type. Is a real struggle out there. I use very little foundation so pretty much any of first three shades would go ok. but I do notice they are mostly not named correctly. I find the bigger the range of foundations the more difficult to make up my mind. I would prefer they make each shade imaginable than for me to blend anything at home too time consuming and could turn out a disaster. And please name the right shade don’t call a neutral fair or a fair a neutral what a mess.
How can they say the market isn’t buying if
1) There are no options
2) Only online — so if a dark skin person wants it they would have to already KNOW that it comes in their shade range and then guess their shade. They also wont have access to those drugstore deals.
3) No marketing to tell us ‘hey we decided to also include dark skin tones .’
** Also, 4) CREATE THE PROPER UNDERTONES Black women ( and men) cannot truly use darkened existing shades. However, I’d rather they come out with a variety of shades and later release the missing gaps not the ENTIRE dark range and then dont even go deep. Another note, I dont see why its so hard to have testers in drugstores.
I just want to clarify that I don’t think there’s no market at all in case that’s how you read my own answer – I was more specifically wanting to address the common excuses brands have given about why they don’t. I feel there’s definitely market potential for brands willing to do better by their customers, but they can’t be lazy – they have to create and develop real shades with the right undertones, as you said!
Christine, I get where you’re coming from. From a business stand point, it’s all about the bottom line. I totally understand that. It’s bad that I have come to expect for my shade (NW50-55) to either not be available at all, or to come later. Every time a brand does this, I tell myself that I’m not going to get upset. But then when I see that they have released 3 “light” shades that all look the same, I lose it! I’m tried of POC being an after thought…#JustMy2Cents
Sidenote: Stephanie Nicole on YouTube posted an amazing video using only black owned brands from beginning to end. She also gave some insight into why brands don’t release darker shades right away. The video is very informative and I highly recommend it.
It is absolutely frustrating and always a reminder of how much further beauty still has to go to be inclusive. I think that’s the “easy” argument brands often given, but there are brands with very wide foundation ranges (to me, that means 20+ shades, but they’re not always as well-rounded as they could be) at all price points (well, perhaps not luxury) like NYX, MUFE, Cover FX, MAC, etc.
If a brand released 9 shades and 3 were light, 3 were medium, and 3 were dark, then it would be obviously lacking in shades but would not feel deliberately excluding.
I totally agree. Whenever someone asks me about foundation, I almost always refer them to the Lancome Teint Idole. They have such a wide variety of shades and “in between” shades. And only do they carry my shade, but the foundation is flawless. Definitely holy grail status. I also recently tried the ELF Flawess liquid and powder foundations. They were great. It doesn’t last as long as my Lancome, but it’s a really good option if you need something affordable in a pinch.
I also think that we have to start putting our money where our mouths are. There are so many indie brands now-a-days that are starting to fill that void and those are the brands that I have been giving my money to.
I just don’t get why brands are not creating darker shades in foundations – the market is there; it would make sense commercially. It must be very frustrating and, indeed, upsetting for you not to find your shade or to be left out of the range altogether. I understand where you are coming from totally.
Just ask The Ordinary – they are putting out 21 shades, probably more and they are sold out everywhere in both of their foundations. So the need is there.
I guess for niche brands they may well find it difficult commercially to do, but there is absolutely no excuse for the major DS brands that are raking the money in. Although L’Oreal has just launched an extended range of their true match line and I wonder if they have catered to deeper skin tones better.
Mixers are a great idea so that you can adjust your foundation shade. Good idea Christine.
Exactly! The Ordinary (Deciem) is an amazing brand…especially when it comes to their skincare. As far as foundations, I would have to agree that mixers are the best option. I’m almost always mixing my foundations for one reason or another. To shade adjust, to make a foundation more matte, or to add a luminizer. Sometimes I mix large batches in my winter and summer shades and put them in empty foundation bottles that I’ve finished or I purchase some airless pumps from Amazon and put my concoctions in there. It takes a little bit of work, but it’s worth it to have my perfect shade.
What you have to do to get your perfect shade! What foundations do you mix?
Companies need to acknowledge and understand the “changing” face of the world. Actually, it has always been that way. Look at the $$$ that are spent on beauty products in specific communities. It is so offending to see the darkest shad is in some brands – is Halle Berry, Zoe K. or Zendaya. Sometimes it so obvious that brand like Chanel, Dior, It, etc. do not want my money.
My skin is funny. I am naturally tanned. I have a NC44 chest and a Y445 face. NC44 is a little lighter and Y445 oxidizes a little. I think I’m more the NC44.5, but this shade is not sold in Brazil.
Anyway, I mix. People say that it is too expensive, but is it? You have the double of foundation by the end of the day. Besides, you can costumize you foundation.
Skins are so different and I don’t think the industry will catch up.