Temptalia

This or That: Natasha Denona Neutral Palettes ft. Biba vs. Glam

Christine — Thu, 22 Apr 2021 17:30:00 +0000

I’ve seen readers ask about this comparison, since they’re both more neutral color stories, but they are more different than they are alike, I think… but let’s break it down!

Learn how to make more critical comparisons between two products when you’re choosing between two options, whether you’re in decluttering mode or considering a new purchase or have been tempted by something new and shiny!

Natasha Denona Biba vs. Natasha Denona Glam

Biba Natasha Denona

Natasha Denona

PPermanent. $129.00/1.2 oz.

A-

Natasha Denona Biba 15-Pan Eyeshadow Palette ($129.00 for 1.2 oz.) is a new, permanent palette that features three Metallic eyeshadows, four...

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Natasha Denona Biba 15-Pan Eyeshadow Palette ($129.00 for 1.2 oz.) is a new, permanent palette that features three Metallic eyeshadows, four...

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Glam Natasha Denona

Natasha Denona

PPermanent. $69.00/0.67 oz.

Natasha Denona Glam 15-Pan Small Eyeshadow Palette ($65.00 for 0.67 oz.) is a new, seemingly-permanent eyeshadow palette with five matte shades and 10...

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Natasha Denona Glam 15-Pan Small Eyeshadow Palette ($65.00 for 0.67 oz.) is a new, seemingly-permanent eyeshadow palette with five matte shades and 10...

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The Analysis

	BIBA Natasha Denona	GLAM Natasha Denona
Finishes	8 mattes, 4 cream-powders, 3 shimmers	5 mattes, 10 shimmers
Color Story	More mid-tone in depth with a few light/deep shades, warm-toned neutrals	Lighter, more neutral to neutral-cool in undertone
Pigmentation	Opaque	Opaque
Texture	Soft, smooth, blendable without being too firmly-pressed into pans, not too powdery	Soft, smooth, blendable without being too firmly-pressed into pans, not too powdery
Longevity	8-9 hours before fading	8-9 hours before fading
Application	Easy to work with; shimmers could be applied wet or dry/with fingertip or a brush	Easy to work with; shimmers could be applied wet or dry/with fingertip or a brush
Accessibility	Online and in-store, global distribution	Online and in-store, global distribution
Price/Size	$129.00/1.2 oz.	$65.00/0.67 oz.
Packaging	Plastic palette, pans pop out	Plastic palette, pans pop out

Reasons for Biba: This is a richer color story, even though it is neutral, and it is dominated by more matte and satin finishes. For those who already have a lot of neutral shimmers may find this complements those well. The color story also offers more contrast and depth, particularly for medium and darker skin tones. The cream-powder formula may draw some to this palette over Glam, too (though the reverse could occur!) as it sits well on skin and looks more like a “natural matte” and is very blendable without any powderiness. It is ideal for someone who likes warmer neutrals with a touch of neutral/cool (like the bottom row).

Reasons for Glam: It features the brand’s “midi” size, which is just code for smaller and almost half the price, but each eyeshadow is still contains a lot of product, so for most, there’s no real sacrifice in terms of quantity. This is a shimmer-heavy palette, so it will be best for those looking for high shine metallic neutral eyeshadows that lean a little less orange/red compared to others on the market. It is also more suitable for someone who likes more of a light to mid-tone depth look as there are only a couple of dark shades in the palette. I don’t find this palette to be strictly cool-toned, but it is much more cool-toned than most neutral eyeshadow palettes.

Editor’s Pick: I prefer the color story of Biba, and it is my go-to neutral eyeshadow palette. Glam is great quality, and the price point is way better–I feel like all of the original $129 palettes should be made in the midi format only–but it’s not a palette I find I reach for much. It’s just too light for me to use cohesively. I could see pulling some shimmers from it and pairing it with Biba, though. For me, Biba is cohesive but Glam is a complementary palette.

Bottom Line: They are both high-quality palettes with easy-to-use eyeshadows that are pigmented, blendable, and long-wearing. The brand didn’t miss on either! I think that if you’ve never tried Natasha Denona before and want to, keep an eye out for midi palette releases. Ignoring price, Biba is better for those looking for higher contrast, more mattes, and warmer tones in a neutral palette; Glam is better for those looking for high-shimmer, lots of shimmer, and are less concerned about contrast/versatility in depth.

This or That: Sparkly Red Lipstick ft. Pat McGrath vs. UOMA Beauty

Christine — Thu, 15 Apr 2021 17:30:00 +0000

While the last few editions of This or That have featured very, very similar-colored products, it’s also good to compare products that aren’t quite as close in color. This helps to figure out why we may be drawn to one color over another while also assessing any formula differences. Let’s take a look at two sparkly reds!

Learn how to make more critical comparisons between two products when you’re choosing between two options, whether you’re in decluttering mode or considering a new purchase or have been tempted by something new and shiny!

Pat McGrath Rebel Red vs. UOMA Beauty on Fire

Rebel Red Pat McGrath

Pat McGrath

PPermanent. $40.00/0.13 oz.

A-

Pat McGrath Rebel Red BlitzTrance Lipstick ($38.00 for 0.13 oz.) is a bright, pinky-red with cool undertones and a sparkling, shiny finish. It had a...

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Pat McGrath Rebel Red BlitzTrance Lipstick ($38.00 for 0.13 oz.) is a bright, pinky-red with cool undertones and a sparkling, shiny finish. It had a...

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On Fire UOMA Beauty

UOMA Beauty

PPermanent. $26.00/0.12 oz.

B+

UOMA Beauty On Fire Black Magic Metallic Lipstick ($26.00 for 0.12 oz.) is a brighter, medium red with moderate, warm undertones and a sparkling...

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UOMA Beauty On Fire Black Magic Metallic Lipstick ($26.00 for 0.12 oz.) is a brighter, medium red with moderate, warm undertones and a sparkling...

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The Analysis

	REBEL RED Pat McGrath	ON FIRE UOMA Beauty
Finish	Moderately glossy with a lot of sparkle	Moderately glossy with a lot of sparkle
Color	Brighter, medium pink-red with cooler undertones	Slightly muted, medium-dark red with moderate, warm undertones
Pigmentation	Semi-opaque, fairly even coverage	Semi-opaque, fairly even coverage
Texture	Lightly emollient with light slip (looked wetter than it felt), fairly smooth with hint of texture from the sparkle that came through	Lightly emollient with moderate slip, slight feel of the sparkles came through during application (not enough to be painful)
Longevity	6 hours, hydrating	5.5 hours, lightly hydrating
Application	Applied fairly evenly but didn’t adhere as evenly to the center of my lips	Applied fairly evenly but didn’t adhere as evenly to the center of my lips
Accessibility	Online and in-store, moderate global distribution	Online and limited in-store distribution, seemed less globally distributed
Price/Size	$40.00/0.13 oz.; brand holds 20%+ sales a few times a year (regularly enough that one could wait to purchase)	$26.00/0.12 oz.
Packaging	Traditional, twist-up tube, bulkier with raised lips at the join	Traditional, twist-up tube, magnetic closure

Reasons for Pat McGrath Rebel Red: For those who prefer a cooler, more blue-based red, this would be a better selection as On Fire is definitely fiery red! The dimension on Rebel Red is more complex, too, and the sparkles seemed slightly finer/smaller, so they feel less noticeable when I pressed my lips together, which may be preferred for those more sensitive to sparkle texture. It was longer-wearing and more apt to leave a noticeable reddish stain behind as it wore down, so if better wear is necessary, this would also be in favor of this shade.

Reasons for UOMA Beauty On Fire: For those who prefer a warmer, more orange-based red and like sparkle but don’t want it to be quite as iridescent as the sparkle was more tonal. The color was also darker and less bright, which may make it more “wearable” for some. This is the more budget-friendly choice, and the packaging features a magnetic closure, which I find to be nicer and more functional than Rebel Red.

Editor’s Pick: I prefer the color, finish, and slightly more even application of Rebel Red as I tend to wear blue-based reds over orange-based reds myself.

Bottom Line: They’re both comfortable, long-wearing sparkly lipstick formulas, and I think it really comes down to one’s preference for color rather than finish per se. If the colors were exactly the same, there’s a good chance I’d go for UOMA’s formula just because it is significantly cheaper, and I prefer the packaging (which is often part of what drives a luxury price point).

This or That: Copper Cream Eyeshadow ft. Danessa Myricks vs. Smashbox

Christine — Thu, 08 Apr 2021 17:30:00 +0000

More cream eyeshadows to compare! This time, let’s look at two more liquid-based cream eyeshadows as they both come in a squeezy tube.

Learn how to make more critical comparisons between two products when you’re choosing between two options, whether you’re in decluttering mode or considering a new purchase or have been tempted by something new and shiny!

Danessa Myricks Rustic vs. Smashbox Sienna

Rustic Danessa Myricks

Danessa Myricks

PPermanent. $18.00/0.34 oz.

Danessa Myricks Rustic Colorfix Matte ($18.00 for 0.34 oz.) is a darker, burnt orange with warmer undertones and a matte finish. It had rich color...

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Danessa Myricks Rustic Colorfix Matte ($18.00 for 0.34 oz.) is a darker, burnt orange with warmer undertones and a matte finish. It had rich color...

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Sienna Smashbox

Smashbox

PPermanent. $22.00/0.34 oz.

A-

Smashbox Sienna Always On Cream Eyeshadow ($22.00 for 0.34 oz.) is a medium-dark copper with warmer, more orange undertones and a matte finish. It had...

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Smashbox Sienna Always On Cream Eyeshadow ($22.00 for 0.34 oz.) is a medium-dark copper with warmer, more orange undertones and a matte finish. It had...

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The Analysis

	RUSTIC Danessa Myricks	SIENNA Smashbox
Finish	Matte	Matte
Color	Medium copper with moderate, warm undertones–leaned slightly more orange than red	Medium-dark copper with moderate, warm undertones–leaned slightly more red than orange
Pigmentation	Opaque	Opaque
Texture	Soft, moderately emollient, slightly dense	Thin, velvety, lightweight, budge-proof finish once set, quick to set
Longevity	Started fading after 10 hours	Started creasing faintly after 8.5 hours
Application	Applied well dry and could be used with a dampened brush	Applied well dry and could be used with a dampened brush
Accessibility	Mostly online only but wide global distribution and carried at larger retailers	Online and in-store, global distribution and carried at larger retailers
Price/Size	$18.00/0.34 fl. oz.	$22.00/034 fl. oz.
Packaging	Squeeze tube	Squeeze tube

Reasons for Danessa Myricks Rustic: The biggest plus for Rustic is that it is a multi-use product (and actually functioned well as such) and can be used as an eyeshadow, blush, and lip product. It is strongest as an eyeshadow and blush, though it was surprisingly good as a lip product for those who like more liquid lipsticks that dry down. The formula is quick-drying but retains some blendability after it is mostly dried down, and it is particularly long-wearing with more fading than creasing at the end of the day. It’s very pigmented where a little went a long way, so it is ideal for someone looking for more opaque effects. I think this formula will work better for someone who prefers using brushes over fingertips (fingertips do work well, though, but brushes edge them out, in my experience). This finish is less matte and seemed to sit better on my skin sometimes.

Reasons for Smashbox Sienna: I think the formula is easier to sheer out for those who prefer more semi-sheer to medium coverage in a cream eyeshadow. It has less of a learning curve with respect to pigmentation than Rustic as Sienna is pigmented but didn’t require as much care not to over-apply it. The finish is also very matte, so if one wants an extreme matte finish, this is the better choice. I found that this product, as it was more velvety, seemed slightly more fingertip-friendly for application compared to Rustic, so if you tend to use fingertips for thin, layer of cream eyeshadow, this might be more suitable (by a fraction!).

Editor’s Pick: While I thought they were fairly comparable at a glance, Rustic was the clear pick for me. It just outdid Rustic in every day; it was more pigmented, more versatile, more affordable, and longer-wearing. Both formulas had some learning curve for me, but after working with the Danessa Myricks matte Colorfix, they really can be beyond stunning after getting the hang of it (a few uses at most).

Bottom Line: Rustic came out as a superior product, so I think the ability to see Sienna in-store more readily might be its major advantage followed by its very matte finish.

This or That: Bronze Cream Eyeshadows ft. Chanel and Sydney Grace

Christine — Thu, 01 Apr 2021 17:30:00 +0000

Let’s take a deeper dive into comparing two cream eyeshadows in bronzy hues!

Learn how to make more critical comparisons between two products when you’re choosing between two options, whether you’re in decluttering mode or considering a new purchase or have been tempted by something new and shiny!

Chanel Patine Bronze vs. Sydney Grace I Don’t Know

Patine Bronze (840) Chanel

Chanel

PPermanent. $36.00/0.14 oz.

A+

Chanel Patine Bronze (840) Ombre Premiere Longwear Cream Eyeshadow ($36.00 for 0.14 oz.) is a slightly muted, medium golden bronze with warm...

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Chanel Patine Bronze (840) Ombre Premiere Longwear Cream Eyeshadow ($36.00 for 0.14 oz.) is a slightly muted, medium golden bronze with warm...

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I Don't Know Sydney Grace

Sydney Grace

PPermanent. $8.00/0.34 oz.

A+

Sydney Grace I Don't Know Cream Shadow (2020) ($8.00 for 0.34 oz.) is a rich, golden bronze with strong, warm undertones and a metallic sheen. The...

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Sydney Grace I Don't Know Cream Shadow (2020) ($8.00 for 0.34 oz.) is a rich, golden bronze with strong, warm undertones and a metallic sheen. The...

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The Analysis

	PATINE BRONZE Chanel	I DON’T KNOW Sydney Grace
Finish	High-shine metallic with fine sparkle	Smooth metallic, moderate shine
Color	Medium-dark bronze with moderate, warm reddish undertones and a smooth, metallic sheen	Medium-dark bronze with moderate, warm reddish undertones and a bright, metallic finish
Pigmentation	Opaque	Opaque
Texture	Lightly creamy but more solid than liquid, thin (not in a bad way), lightweight	Liquid, lightweight, spreadable
Longevity	Started creasing faintly after 11 hours	Started creasing faintly at 9 hours
Application	Applied well fingertips or brushes	Applied well with fingertips or brushes
Accessibility	Online and in-store, more global distribution	Online online, direct only
Price/Size	$36.00/0.14 oz. — luxury price point	$8.00/0.34 fl. oz. — significantly more affordable
Packaging	Glass jar with twist-off lid	Squeeze tube

Reasons for Chanel Patine Bronze: The shimmer is finer and less metallic, which may make it more flattering on more textured skin. I also find that it has a softer look, even though the colors are very similar (especially when sheered out). Chanel’s formula is also easier to apply as a wash of color from the get-go and is hard to over-apply since it comes in a jar-format (no chance of over-squeezing!). For those who prefer sheerer, wash-like effects or like a more glowing finish (rather than metallic), Chanel does both well. The formula wears longer on me before creasing, too.

Reasons for Sydney Grace I Don’t Know: It has a little bit more depth and richness in its base color and a little went further than Patine Bronze, so it was more pigmented (despite both being opaque) and was marginally harder to sheer out–like you had to be careful to apply the smallest amount to sheer it out. As a result, I Don’t Know works particularly well as an opaque product and diffused along the edges. The finish is also a little shinier and more amped up; the richness may also play better with medium-dark and darker skin tones.

Editor’s Pick: Sydney Grace I Don’t Know! Though I certainly love Chanel’s formula and find it a bit longer-wearing, I prefer higher coverage and don’t need the ability to sheer out as much… plus I’d be unlikely to finish either, so I’d rather spend significantly less and be able to get a few shades of a great cream eyeshadow formula if I wanted to.

Bottom Line: Both formulas are more forgiving as they do not have budge-proof dry downs, so they can be blended and manipulated (to some degree) after they dry down. I think Patine Bronze is better for those who want something less metallic (but still shimmery) and prefer sheerer looks–and obviously aren’t concerned about budget!–while I Don’t Know is better for someone who prefers more metallic finishes and/or more opaque formulas. They’re both fantastic shades and formulas, so I think finish and price end up being the biggest differences; the latter is obviously very much dependent on one’s budget or lack thereof.

This or That: Green-Teal-Blue Multichromes

Christine — Thu, 25 Mar 2021 17:30:00 +0000

There are so many cream blushes releasing this year! Today, I thought we’d take a look at two incredibly similar shades of multichrome eyeshadow and see if we could dial-in on why one makes more sense than the other. These are extremely similar, but it definitely made me think long and hard!

Learn how to make more critical comparisons between two products when you’re choosing between two options, whether you’re in decluttering mode or considering a new purchase or have been tempted by something new and shiny!

Clionadh Trefoil vs. Terra Moons Mood Ring

Trefoil Clionadh

Clionadh

PPermanent. $19.00/0.05 oz.

Clionadh Trefoil Jewelled Multichrome Eyeshadow ($19.00 for 0.05 oz.) has a blackened base with a multichrome finish that shifted from rich, warmer...

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Clionadh Trefoil Jewelled Multichrome Eyeshadow ($19.00 for 0.05 oz.) has a blackened base with a multichrome finish that shifted from rich, warmer...

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Mood Ring Terra Moons

Terra Moons

PPermanent. $17.00/0.05 oz.

Terra Moons Mood Ring Extreme Multichrome Shadow ($17.00 for 0.05 oz.) has a blackened base with a multichromatic shift that went between cobalt blue...

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Terra Moons Mood Ring Extreme Multichrome Shadow ($17.00 for 0.05 oz.) has a blackened base with a multichromatic shift that went between cobalt blue...

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The Analysis

	TREFOIL Clionadh	MOOD RING Terra Moons
Finish	High-shine metallic with fine sparkle	Smooth metallic, moderate shine
Color	Multichrome with black base, blue-teal-green shift	Multichrome with black base, blue-teal-green shift
Pigmentation	Opaque	Opaque
Texture	Soft, moderately emollient, slightly dense	Soft, lightly emollient, less dense
Longevity	Starts fading at 8.5 hours, faded evenly	Starts fading at 8 hours, faded evenly
Application	Applied well dry and could be used with a dampened brush	Applied well dry and could be used with a dampened brush
Accessibility	Online only, direct only, based in Canada, pre-order	Online online, direct only, based in US, pre-order
Price/Size	On the higher-end for Multichromes, shipping costs may be higher due to Canada location for certain customers	Slightly more affordable, shipping may be lower for certain customers
Packaging	Pan-only	Pan-only

Reasons for Clionadh Trefoil: The color and finish give Trefoil an inkier quality to it as the black base was slightly richer, deeper, while the shine made it appear slightly more intense overall. The formula is more emollient, slightly creamier, so it had slightly better adhesion and longevity. I find that the shift stays more intense for longer–by an hour or so–compared to Mood Ring. If you’re someone who loves the look of eyeshadows applied wet but doesn’t want to actually use a dampened brush, Trefoil has that impact dry.

Reasons for Terra Moons Mood Ring: I think this is slightly easier to work with for someone who hasn’t used Multichromes before as the black base wasn’t quite as intense, so I felt it was more forgiving and easier to use. It wasn’t as emollient, which may be preferred for those who have oilier lids as sometimes denser, more emollient formulas can crease more readily. Because the finish on this shade was smoother and not quite as shiny, I’d expect it to be a little more forgiving of more lid texture. If you are only purchasing one or two shades and live in the US (at least, may apply to other regions!), shipping is more affordable (free over $65 whereas Clionadh’s shipping starts at $15 and there’s no free shipping offered).

Editor’s Pick: I prefer that slightly more emollient quality of Trefoil as well as the shinier, more intense finish. However, if I was only ordering one or two shades from either brand, I would opt for Mood Ring because the difference in cost would be too great for those marginal differences–Mood Ring is still quite smooth and metallic with great intensity, and without owning both, I’d never think there were real differences (even as slight as they are).

Bottom Line: You can’t go wrong with either shade because they are very, very similar. The price point on each is comparable, but it is likely the difference in shipping costs that will determine which is the better “deal.” The colors are nearly the same, while the formulas are both high-performing with subtle differences that result in subtle differences in the overall finish, but the application of the two is similar.

This or That: Plum Cream Blush ft. Fenty Beauty & LYS Beauty

Christine — Thu, 18 Mar 2021 17:30:00 +0000

There are so many cream blushes releasing this year! Today, I thought we’d take a look at two plum-hued cream blushes and critically compare the two.

Learn how to make more critical comparisons between two products when you’re choosing between two options, whether you’re in decluttering mode or considering a new purchase or have been tempted by something new and shiny!

Fenty Beauty Summertime Wine vs. LYS Beauty Passion

Summertime Wine Fenty Beauty

Fenty Beauty

PPermanent. $20.00/0.1 oz.

Fenty Beauty Summertime Wine Cheeks Out Freestyle Cream Blush ($20.00 for 0.1 oz.) is a brighter, medium-dark plum with subtle, warm undertones and...

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Fenty Beauty Summertime Wine Cheeks Out Freestyle Cream Blush ($20.00 for 0.1 oz.) is a brighter, medium-dark plum with subtle, warm undertones and...

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Passion LYS Beauty

LYS Beauty

PPermanent. $16.00/0.23 oz.

LYS Beauty Passion Higher Standard Satin Matte Cream Blush ($16.00 for 0.23 oz.) is a rich raspberry with cool undertones and a satin finish. It had...

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LYS Beauty Passion Higher Standard Satin Matte Cream Blush ($16.00 for 0.23 oz.) is a rich raspberry with cool undertones and a satin finish. It had...

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The Analysis

	SUMMERTIME WINE Fenty Beauty	PASSION LYS Beauty
Finish	Dewy with fine pearl	Satin-matte, “skin-like” but not to the point of dewiness
Color	Raspberry pink, subtly cool-toned with warmer gold pearl	Raspberry pink, cooler-toned
Pigmentation	Semi-sheer to medium coverage to start, buildable to semi-opaque coverage	Opaque coverage, could be sheered out slightly or used with lighter hand for more buildable coverage
Texture	Creamy, lightweight, moderately emollient	Creamy, smooth, lightweight, lightly emollient but more powder-like once on skin
Longevity	Starts fading at 8.5 hours, faded evenly	Starts fading at 9 hours, faded evenly
Application	Worked well with fingertips or brushes, on its own or over foundation	Worked well with fingertips or brushes, on its own or over foundation
Accessibility	Online and in-stores	Online and in-stores
Price/Size	Solidly mid-end pricing per shade but contains less product than some cream blushes	More affordable and contained almost double the amount of product (useful only if one will finish!)
Packaging	Plastic, compact, should be durable	Plastic, larger and unusually shaped (triangle), should be durable

Reasons for Fenty Beauty Summertime Wine: The finish is what really differentiated the two for me, so if one prefers a bit of pearl and a dewier finish for cream blush, this is the choice. It’s also a little warmer-toned, so if warmth is desired, it would also edge out Passion. It is marginally easier to sheer out or to start off sheerer with this formula.

Reasons for LYS Beauty Passion: If someone wanted to try cream blush but has always worried about the finish being too dewy, this range is less flat compared to a powder blush but not as dewy as most cream blush formulas. The color didn’t have visible shimmer and ran cooler-toned. It would be a better pick for someone who tends to finish their products, too, assuming a year or so (given it is a cream formula) as it contained over double the product.

Editor’s Pick: I love a dewier finish on a cream blush, so I’d go with Summertime Wine. I also love the subtle pearl in it, too, as I tend to prefer shimmery blushes in general!

Bottom Line: They are very similar in terms of ease of application, how they apply, how long they last (and how they fade), and are both fairly adjustable in coverage with Summertime Wine being a little better for those preferring sheerer application from the start. The major difference is in the finish as Summertime Wine is noticeably dewy on the skin after application, and it also had a bit of pearl (though fine enough that it wasn’t night and day comparing finishes).

This or That: Coral Blush Edition

Christine — Sat, 30 May 2020 19:00:00 +0000

This week, I shared my breakdown of how to make more critical comparisons between two products when you’re choosing between two options, whether you’re in decluttering mode or considering a new purchase or have been tempted by something new and shiny!

Here are those methods applied to some of the recommendations I made in my A to Z Guide to Coral Blush. In that post, I included a variety of shades from light to dark, matte to shimmer, cooler to warmer and so on across different brands and price points. When I make recommendations, I’ll often provide more rather than less as they’re all great products but I want to make sure it’s helpful for more readers!

Sydney Grace Cantata vs. Natasha Denona Alba

Cantata Sydney Grace

Sydney Grace

PPermanent. $9.00/0.25 oz.

Sydney Grace Cantata Highlighter ($12.00 for 0.25 oz.) is a bright, light-medium peachy-pink base with a strong, gold metallic shimmer. The base...

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Sydney Grace Cantata Highlighter ($12.00 for 0.25 oz.) is a bright, light-medium peachy-pink base with a strong, gold metallic shimmer. The base...

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Alba Natasha Denona

Natasha Denona

PPermanent. $38.00/0.35 oz.

A-

Natasha Denona Alba Duo Glow ($38.00 for 0.35 oz.) is a light-medium pink-coral with warm, golden shimmer for a luminous sheen. It had good...

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Natasha Denona Alba Duo Glow ($38.00 for 0.35 oz.) is a light-medium pink-coral with warm, golden shimmer for a luminous sheen. It had good...

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The Analysis

	CANTATA Sydney Grace	ALBA Natasha Denona
Finish	Intensely metallic, more overtly shimmery	Moderate glow, smoother sheen
Color	Appears more golden due to high shimmer content	Appears slightly deeper pink, thus cooler-toned
Pigmentation	Opaque; must be used with soft hand for sheerer coverage	Opaque but more forgiving, could be applied sheerer with less adjustment
Texture	Creamy, dense but yielding, metallic	Smooth, dense but not too thick, luminous
Longevity	Starts fading at 8.5 hours, faded evenly	Starts fading at 8.5 hours, faded evenly
Application	Easy, effortless, works with a variety of brushes but best for someone with a lighter-hand	Easy, blendable but better with moderately-dense brush/moderate-hand; better for someone heavier-handed
Accessibility	Direct only, likely more expensive for int’l buyers, no ability to see it in person	More widely available online but still a smaller in-person footprint
Price/Size	Affordable but available as pan-only (requires freestyle palette)	Expensive, has a lot amount of product, doesn’t require a lot per use, likely to take awhile to use (even with regular use!)
Packaging	Pan-only, requires freestyle palette	Plastic, compact, should be durable

Reasons for Sydney Grace Cantata: It’s more affordable, so if budget was a concern, I’d go here and if I wanted to subdue the finish a bit, I’d dust translucent powder on top. It’s an intense highlighter, so if I was more in the market for something ultra-metallic and visible from the next galaxy over, Cantata is the easy choice.

Reasons for Natasha Denona Alba: It’s more travel-friendly/consumer-friendly, since it comes in its own compact, so if either of these were important, they would be very much in the pro column. If I was looking for something that had a more moderate, more luminous finish or if I was heavier-handed, it makes more sense.

Editor’s Pick: If I had to choose only one, I’d probably end up with Alba if I wanted a blush, and then I’d add a lil’ extra gold highlight on top if I wanted a more intense finish.

Bottom Line: They are quite comparable blendability, longevity, and ease of use, generally, and the biggest difference between the two is the intensity of the finish, followed by price and packaging. The difference in finish ultimately impacts both the tone and color as-applied and may make it more or less appealing for those with more textured skin.

Essence Satin Coral vs. Persona Georgia

Satin Coral Essence

Essence

PPermanent. $2.99/0.17 oz.

A-

Essence Satin Coral Satin Touch Blush ($2.99 for 0.17 oz.) is a medium, coral-orange with warm undertones and a satin finish. The more I blended and...

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Essence Satin Coral Satin Touch Blush ($2.99 for 0.17 oz.) is a medium, coral-orange with warm undertones and a satin finish. The more I blended and...

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Georgia Persona

Persona

PPermanent. $22.00/0.18 oz.

Persona Georgia Super Blush ($22.00 for 0.18 oz.) is a brighter pop of medium coral-orange with strong, warm undertones and a semi-matte finish. It...

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Persona Georgia Super Blush ($22.00 for 0.18 oz.) is a brighter pop of medium coral-orange with strong, warm undertones and a semi-matte finish. It...

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The Analysis

	SATIN CORAL Essence	GEORGIA Persona
Finish	Satin sheen, slightly more amplified than skin-like	Satin, my-skin-but-better
Color	Applies true-to-color, leans slightly pinker blended out	Darkens slightly, giving it a brighter hue when applied but truer undertone
Pigmentation	Opaque but soft enough to be used with a lighter hand for more buildable coverage	Semi-opaque, buildable, yielding without being powdery so easy to control amount of product applied
Texture	Soft, lightly powdery but didn’t appear dusty or dry	Smooth but firmer press (not stiff), velvety, more seamless and “melted” onto skin
Longevity	Starts fading at 7.5 hours, faded evenly	Starts fading at 9 hours, faded evenly
Application	Easily blended out, more luminous as it was buffed into skin, worked with a variety of brushes but better for someone with light to medium-hand	Easily blended out, worked with a variety of brushes and could be good for someone who can be heavy-handed
Accessibility	Direct only (appears it’s discontinued in lieu of The Blush formula, which doesn’t have a comparable shade)	Limited distribution, mostly online
Price/Size	Affordable, good amount of product but may use more per application due to slight powderiness	Moderately-priced, smaller amount but may have less waste per application due to firmer texture
Packaging	Sturdy, see-thru plastic, no durability concerns, easy to clean	Sturdy plastic, no durability concerns, easy to clean

Reasons for Essence Satin Coral: It’s one of the cheapest blush options on the market, so if maximizing the budget is a priority, it performs comparably and well across many metrics but saves a lot of money. Essence’s packaging doesn’t feel flimsy either (packaging is often a big ticket item in a product’s cost!). It is slightly powdery (mostly in the pan), so it will work better for those with a light-handed application and less-dense (like a fan) brush. It is forgiving of heavy-handed application but the excess kicked up/lost might be deal-breaking.

Reasons for Persona Georgia: For a true, skin-like finish where the color has a particularly seamless, almost “melted” appearance on skin, I think this formula succeeds better there. If you tend to be heavier-handed or use moderately-dense blush brushes, this formula is more foolproof when paired with either. Georgia is longer-wearing by a decent margin, which could be a very compelling reason to spend more.

Editor’s Pick: I would opt for Georgia because the way it just melts on skin is so seamless and hard to find in the blush world, generally.

Bottom Line: They are extremely similar in general application, blendability, pigmentation, ease of use, and packaging. Georgia has notably better longevity, but they both fade evenly at the end. If budget is less of a concern, the way Georgia sits on skin is what makes it more “special” as a product.

Hourglass Incandescent Electra vs. Clinique Melon Pop

Incandescent Electra Hourglass

Hourglass

PPermanent. $38.00/0.15 oz.

A-

Hourglass Incandescent Electra Ambient Strobe Lighting Blush ($38.00 for 0.15 oz.) is a brighter pop of pink-coral with warm undertones and a luminous...

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Hourglass Incandescent Electra Ambient Strobe Lighting Blush ($38.00 for 0.15 oz.) is a brighter pop of pink-coral with warm undertones and a luminous...

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Melon Pop Clinique

Clinique

PPermanent. $21.00/0.12 oz.

A-

Clinique Melon Pop Cheek Pop Blush ($25.00 for 0.12 oz.) is a light-medium, pink-coral with warm undertones and a luminous sheen. It had good color...

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Clinique Melon Pop Cheek Pop Blush ($25.00 for 0.12 oz.) is a light-medium, pink-coral with warm undertones and a luminous sheen. It had good color...

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The Analysis

	Incandescent Electra Hourglass	Melon Pop Clinique
Finish	Satin, skin-like, subtle shimmer	Satin, skin-like, subtle sheen, melds slightly better with skin
Color	Slightly pinker, darkens a touch when applied to oilier skin/dewier base; touch darker	Slightly peachier, applies more true-to-color
Pigmentation	Medium, buildable coverage that’s easy to dial up or down depending on how much is picked up	Semi-opaque, buildable but requires a moderately-dense brush/moderate hand to pick up product, very easy to use as sheer wash as a result
Texture	Silky, lightly powdery	Moderately dense, firmer press, gel-powder hybrid
Longevity	Starts fading at 8 hours, faded evenly	Starts fading at 8 hours, faded evenly
Application	Blended out easily and product picked up well with a variety of blushes, best for a buildable technique	Blended out easily, looked more glowing as it was buffed in, requires a moderate-hand and/or denser brush (slightly rounded/flatter edge preferred) to pick up product evenly
Accessibility	Global online and in-store distribution	Global online and in-store distribution, probably wider
Price/Size	More expensive blush for a moderate amount of product, some powderiness results in waste, may require more product per use based on texture	Slightly less product but less excess kicked up, more affordable only in comparison, may use less product per application with less potential for waste
Packaging	Rounded, plastic compact (doesn’t stack as well), sturdy	Study, see-thru plastic

Reasons for Hourglass Incandescent Electra: If you’re someone who has trouble using a heavier hand or tends to use more feathery brushes, this shade is a lot easier to apply. If you like a hint of shimmer, you may find this produces a better finish.

Reasons for Clinique Melon Pop: If you find that you tend to over-apply your blush, the firmer, denser texture of this product is more forgiving of heavier handed application (though it actually requires a more medium-hand or denser brush!). If you tend to apply with denser brushes, this will also be more foolproof to use. There is also less waste as there’s no powderiness.

Editor’s Pick: Melon Pop by a hair, mostly because I can be heavier-handed as a result of often applying more for camera than in real life, so something that’s more forgiving is better. I also prefer using a flat, rounded blush brush for application, which suits Melon Pop’s formula better.

Bottom Line: They’re really comparable products; they’re both more buildable coverage, similar in color and finish, have the same longevity ratings, and come in plastic packaging. I think the type of formula may make some more or less interested as Melon Pop is a gel-powder hybrid that’s denser and Incandescent Electra is more like a traditional powder blush (and thus, a little powdery in the pan).

Was this helpful? Let me know if you’d like to see more editions of This or That with specific products.

This or That | Critical Comparisons for Mindful Purchases

Christine — Thu, 28 May 2020 19:00:00 +0000

Have you ever seen two products and thought it was impossible to decide between the two of them? Do you have two similar shades in your stash but haven’t been able to explain why one stands out to you over the other?

There are more obvious ways to compare between two products, like looking at the price, size, whether the brand is accessible (or desirable to have or purchase), and so on. There are also more nuanced ways of really looking at how you use your products, what you like the best, what might be driving you to use one product over another, and so on.

Initial Comparisons: External Factors

I consider these to be external factors since they’re less related to actual product performance since even if one product was vastly superior, it doesn’t actually make it a real choice to someone.

Price: What role does it play in your enjoyment of a purchase?

Most people have a finite budget for beauty spending, so it’s important to weigh whether a product is “worth it” to you and your budget. A $125 palette might be easy to justify to someone who spends $200 a month on beauty but require infinitely more soul-searching if $200 is one’s entire annual budget!

A palette you’ll use every single day, love to use, and fulfills a need you had may very well be “worth it” if you know that you’re unlikely to be tempted by much more during the year. If you’re someone who likes more variety and has a tendency to go from product to product, it might make more sense to stretch out the budget across more products than all in one.

Size: Does the amount of product provided for the cost make sense?

There’s no point in purchasing a $100 bronzer that contains 16 oz. of product if you plan to use it once a month. It would be better to purchase a $10 bronzer that contains 0.10 oz. (which is double the size of the average eyeshadow) to use once a month. You would still struggle to finish that size!

On the flip side, if your favorite cleanser is available in a jumbo-size and you’ve been loyally using it for a year, spending more upfront but getting a better deal price-per-ounce would make sense. The cost/size ratio also depends on the type of product as some products have shorter shelf lives than others, so spending less for less product is often the better move for something that is hard to use up quickly (whether because a little goes a long way or you won’t use it daily).

Brand: Is the brand accessible or one I’d purchase from?

More brands are more accessible globally than ever before, but that doesn’t mean that they’re equally accessible; they might be harder to get, take longer to ship, or have a significant markup that makes a $10 product in the US become a $25 product in Australia. More recently, consumers are taking stronger positions on the brands they support personally. These are questions that are easier to answer in my experience, since they’re often a yes/no position.

Dupes: If you already have something like it, why are you interested in something similar anyway?

Look, we all have weaknesses for certain things. The longer we are into a hobby, the more likely we’ve accumulated what we need to enjoy that hobby, which includes beauty. I imagine that if you’ve been making purchases in the last few years, you likely have a neutral eyeshadow palette, whether you’ve purchased a pre-made one or you’ve created your own out of singles.

Is it because it’s new and shiny? It can be easy to get into a rut with our favorites or even get bored of them, but just because it’s new doesn’t mean it’s actually that different in practice. You can also inject new life into old favorites and go-tos by layering them with other products, e.g. add a little bit of a deeper blush to add more depth to an existing or try a new highlighter layered over your old favorite blush.

Are you unhappy with what you have? Maybe it was the color of that red lipstick you bought that sold you, but it turns out that the formula is just drying enough to keep you from wanting to wear it 24/7. You can try to make a product work for you, like adding a bit of lip balm on top of a drying lipstick, but sometimes there are products that don’t work or end up in the “can’t be bothered” category.

Do you feel an urge to “collect ’em all”? It’s worth trying to push back on the temptation to purchase all of something, whether it’s because you just love the performance of a particular formula and think, “Well, surely every shade is worth getting, even if I might not use one or two that often!” or the idea of “completing” your collection or a set of things.

Is it because you think it could be even better than what you have? Could it be? How much better? This goes back to the second question–are you unhappy with what you have–but if you love that product and don’t actually have any issues with it, what do you really think another product is going to do that’s better? Is it really going to be worth upgrading for $10, $20, or $30 and having two of something similar? I routinely tell readers that if they’re happy with their $10 option that a $50 option is not going to be 5x better for them–price rarely signifies quality.

Deeper Comparisons: Product Performance

You’ve already assessed whether it makes sense to purchase one product over another based on more external factors (expanded on above), so now it’s time to dive into product performance. If you notice, I don’t actually say how well a product has rated or reviewed or whether it’s a quality product per se; it’s actually more about the performance relative to your needs, wants, and preferences. A product can review well and be a poor fit for you!

My ratings are based off of the formula’s claims as much as possible–sometimes I have to make inferences or hold to “industry” standards, e.g. very few brands deliberately market eyeshadow as sheer. This means if a blush is supposed to be pigmented and it’s sheer, it will lose points for lack of pigmentation, while a lipstick that’s supposed to be sheer that ends up opaque will lose points for being too pigmented.

This is my way to try and remove my own preferences from the review and give you insight into how it performed from a more objective starting place. We often read a product’s description and think, “That’s a good fit,” so that is also why it’s important to hold brands accountable to what they claim!

Let’s start looking at product performance by going using The Glossover characteristics…

Pigmentation: Is it the level of pigmentation I want?

I wish more brands were comfortable with marketing products as sheer or medium or buildable coverage. I review so many products that seem like they were intentionally sheerer but they claim otherwise (and even promotional swatches show full opacity). Sometimes it’s like brands are allergic to the word sheer! There is absolutely a place for sheer products, but there are times when pigmentation is also a necessity.

Whether opacity or sheerness is desired is linked to your own preferences, what your needs are, and how you apply your products. Someone with naturally pigmented lips may find that opacity is critical in a lip product, whereas someone may find that sheerer blush is more foolproof. You may desire more pigmentation in one type of product and less in another.

Are you light-handed or heavy-handed? It can be nice to spend an hour applying your makeup, but the reality is that sometimes we’re rushing out the door in minutes, so if you’re heavy-handed, does it make sense to have something that’s so pigmented that you end up having to spend more time blending it out? If you’re light-handed, do you really want to spend time adding three or four layers of a sheer blush to see the color on your skin tone?

Do you need full opacity in one stroke or do you find you prefer to build up coverage? There’s no right or wrong way, and if you take the time to think about how you apply makeup and why you find yourself reaching for one product over another, you can learn so much about yourself that will make purchasing decisions easier and easier.

For example, my preferences run totally counter to the idea of one-and-done for eyeshadow, so on a personal level, I really don’t care about whether an eyeshadow can be sheered out for a wash of color, and I do want pretty opaque coverage in my eyeshadow… except for really intense, deeper matte shades, like a matte black eyeshadow, where I find I’m totally cool with building up coverage (less chance of fallout, more versatile, easier to blend and place without overwhelming a look, etc.).

I know that when it comes to blush, even though I love rich hues like a red or berry, I rarely reach for them because they do require a lighter-hand and more careful application on my skin tone–I’m more inclined to reach for a medium pink than blend out a red to a pinky-red effect.

Texture: Does the finish and consistency work for me?

Texture is a measure of performance, like blendability, whether there’s fallout or patchiness, how it sits on skin/lips (or wherever), but it can also be the place where you can identify whether the actual finish makes sense, too. Examples: 1) chunkier, physical texture can lead to shimmer that’s more prone to emphasizing the skin’s natural texture; 2) a drier, more powdery texture can result in dull, flatter finish; 3) a very dewy finish might translate into greasy on someone with oilier skin.

What are my deal-breakers? It’s hard to come up with a one-size-fits-most here for texture, since powders, liquids, and creams can differ substantially, so it’s more important to consider what you really look for in a particular type of product (both format, like powder over cream, but also whether it’s an eyeshadow or a highlighter). Here are some things that I might consider personally:

How much fallout? Is it just fallout during application? Does it sheer out too easily? I don’t mind some fallout during application as I usually do eyes before my base, but I don’t like fallout during wear. I also don’t like when fallout is a consequence of a drier/more powdery formula that then sheers out too readily!
Does it take forever to dry down? I have no desire to keep my lips parted for 10 minutes for a liquid lipstick to dry down and set.
If I apply a second layer, does the unevenness go away? Here I’m thinking about a pencil eyeliner that might be sheerer, slightly less pigmented in one stroke but looks fantastic in shorter, more overlapping strokes (which is how I tend to apply my pencil eyeliners).
Does it require application with fingertip or a wet brush? For certain shades, I might be more or less willing to use fingertips (a lighter pop of sparkling eyeshadow, sure, but a jewel-toned emerald? I know I’ll place that in a smaller area where fingertip application is a challenge for me).

Will the finish and texture of this product play well with other products I use? My skin type? Not all products layer well, and there are instances where certain products perform more consistently if paired with other complementary products (say an eyeshadow primer, which is a step many have no issue with). If a cream blush applies beautifully over bare skin but is prone to lift away foundation and you wear foundation everyday, it’s a mismatch. Nobody’s looking to buy three other products to make one product perform its best!

Longevity: Does it last as long as I want it to?

Longevity can be looked at from two perspectives: actual wear time where the product looks mostly intact/good and how well it wears down (whether one reapplies or not). A lipstick that lasts three hours but wears away evenly and is easy to reapply might make total sense for one person, while another will want a budge-proof option that lasts through two meals and hours of talking.

Sometimes we need a product to last a long time and do so beautifully, and other times, maybe wearing something sheerer, lighter, or more comfortable is preferred to all-day longevity (maybe one day, everything will wear like iron but remove easily!). It can also be important into understanding how a product breaks down or wears away over time for those who have long days but don’t have time to reapply–like a blush that is still visible after 12 hours but might be faded at the 8-hour mark or base products that look a bit dewier toward the end of the day (and some might be fine with blotting!).

For my own preferences, I’d rather wear something that doesn’t dry my lips out and reapply it than something that I don’t have to reapply but makes my lips peel later. If I don’t actually need 12-hour eyeliner wear, I’m happy to choose something that might last 8 to 10 hours but removes more readily.

Application: Does it fit my routine? My techniques?

Some people love a challenge, but based on what I’ve seen in the community at large and with readers here, consistent, more foolproof application seems to be the more desired outcome–like most do not want to spend 20 minutes to blend out a single eyeshadow! At this point, it is likely starting to sound repetitive, but it all comes down to what methods and techniques you’re comfortable using.

Does it work with your preferred tool and/or technique? If you don’t like to apply eyeshadow with fingertips but the product only works so-so with a brush, there’s probably an option that syncs up better. If it’s hard to pick up with a fluffy brush but all you have are fluffy brushes, do you want to have to work at picking up the product or purchasing another tool to make it work for you?

Does it apply with the effort and/or time I’m comfortable with? If you’re looking for something that applies effortlessly, but what you’re looking at seems like it has to be applied a certain way or with a certain tool, then it might not fit the bill. For example, if a blush is easy to blend out, I’m more likely to use that than one that takes more effort to even out. On the other hand, I might be more willing to spend a bit of extra time to blend out the world’s blackest black eyeshadow (but maybe not 20 minutes!).

Do I feel confident about applying the product? Some product types are harder to use than others, and there are some techniques that are more challenging to employ, so purchasing a product that requires more care, time, and/or technique that we’re less confident in may mean it’s challenging. You might want to improve your technique, and so that product purchase makes sense, but you might also be equally satisfied with alternatives that you’re already great at applying.

Temptalia

This or That: Natasha Denona Neutral Palettes ft. Biba vs. Glam

Natasha Denona Biba vs. Natasha Denona Glam

PPermanent. $129.00/1.2 oz.

PPermanent. $69.00/0.67 oz.

The Analysis

This or That: Sparkly Red Lipstick ft. Pat McGrath vs. UOMA Beauty

Pat McGrath Rebel Red vs. UOMA Beauty on Fire

PPermanent. $40.00/0.13 oz.

PPermanent. $26.00/0.12 oz.

The Analysis

This or That: Copper Cream Eyeshadow ft. Danessa Myricks vs. Smashbox

Danessa Myricks Rustic vs. Smashbox Sienna

PPermanent. $18.00/0.34 oz.

PPermanent. $22.00/0.34 oz.

The Analysis

This or That: Bronze Cream Eyeshadows ft. Chanel and Sydney Grace

Chanel Patine Bronze vs. Sydney Grace I Don’t Know

PPermanent. $36.00/0.14 oz.

PPermanent. $8.00/0.34 oz.

The Analysis

This or That: Green-Teal-Blue Multichromes

Clionadh Trefoil vs. Terra Moons Mood Ring

PPermanent. $19.00/0.05 oz.

PPermanent. $17.00/0.05 oz.

The Analysis

This or That: Plum Cream Blush ft. Fenty Beauty & LYS Beauty

Fenty Beauty Summertime Wine vs. LYS Beauty Passion

PPermanent. $20.00/0.1 oz.

PPermanent. $16.00/0.23 oz.

The Analysis

This or That: Coral Blush Edition

Sydney Grace Cantata vs. Natasha Denona Alba

PPermanent. $9.00/0.25 oz.

PPermanent. $38.00/0.35 oz.

The Analysis

Essence Satin Coral vs. Persona Georgia

PPermanent. $2.99/0.17 oz.

PPermanent. $22.00/0.18 oz.

The Analysis

Hourglass Incandescent Electra vs. Clinique Melon Pop

PPermanent. $38.00/0.15 oz.

PPermanent. $21.00/0.12 oz.

The Analysis

This or That | Critical Comparisons for Mindful Purchases

Initial Comparisons: External Factors

Price: What role does it play in your enjoyment of a purchase?

Size: Does the amount of product provided for the cost make sense?

Brand: Is the brand accessible or one I’d purchase from?

Dupes: If you already have something like it, why are you interested in something similar anyway?

Deeper Comparisons: Product Performance

Pigmentation: Is it the level of pigmentation I want?

Texture: Does the finish and consistency work for me?

Longevity: Does it last as long as I want it to?

Application: Does it fit my routine? My techniques?

Further Reading