Before Contouring / After Contouring (using NARS Radiant Cream Compact Foundation)

For the demonstration, I’m contouring with cream foundation, as it is an easy way to achieve seamless, blended contours and highlights as they can easily be sheered out, blended out, or layered for the perfect combination.  Cream-based products are more forgiving for anyone new to contouring, so they’re a great starting point. As liquid and cream bases dominate, cream contours work well on top without adding too much powderiness and again, they can be “erased” and dialed down in the event one overapplies!

Highlighting and contouring bring back definition and shape to the face, especially after you’ve created a beautiful, flawless blank canvas with your foundation. Because foundations are one color, and depending on the coverage, they can leave the face looking flat and shapeless.

More of us are familiar with highlighters–shimmering powders and creams patted along the high planes of the face to reflect light–but contouring can be a more difficult and daunting task. The best part about makeup, though, is freedom of choice; you can go as defined as you’d like, so you don’t have to go for a dramatic contour and highlight but something subtle that just defines and helps lift the face. I’ve tried to show a more dramatic contour (but you could go further and make it even more dramatic) so that you can clearly see the differences before and after.

Don’t be afraid if you’re new to contouring!  Uzo, NARS International Lead Stylist, recommends beginners to use cream foundations for contouring “because they are easier to blend” as “powders in an unskilled hand can make contouring look harsh and un-blended while liquids don’t give enough definition. It is not about having a stripe of darker, un-diffused color along the sides of the face but subtly blended dimension that defines the cheekbones (and jaw line).”

Generally, your highlight shade should be two to four shades lighter than your actual skin color.  Depending on how much depth and shadow you want to create, you may find going one or two shades deeper is enough to achieve a subtle, but noticeable, contouring effect, but for greater definition, you will want to select a shade that is two to four shades darker than your natural complexion and opt for a shade that has similar undertones to your skin tone or one that is more neutral.

Where to Contour & Highlight Diagram

Step-by-Step Tutorial

STEP 1: Prep and prime the face–whatever your normal pre-foundation routine is, do that prior to starting. Make sure you give your moisturizer enough time to absorb and sink into the skin, as this gives you a better texture to work with and always helps your foundation apply better.

STEP 2: With a sponge applicator or synthetic foundation brush (Uzo recommends foundation brushes with nylon), apply the foundation all over the face, blending and smoothing the coverage out to as little as you need. It’s best to apply sheer coverage all-over, and then go back and build up coverage just in the places you need it. For me, that meant light-medium coverage on cheeks, underneath the eyes, and on my chin to minimize redness, unevenness, and hide blemishes/post-acne marks. If you normally use concealer, apply it as you normally would (whether before/after foundation).

STEP 3: With a flat, firm brush, I like to pat on the highlight shade underneath my eyes in an upside-down triangle shape (see contour map below) and directly underneath my brow bone. With a fluffy eye brush, blend the highlight edges into your normal foundation to make the transition seamless.

STEP 4: Using the same flat, firm brush, pat the highlight shade just below the center of the forehead, and then lightly down the nose. You can also highlight slightly underneath the nostrils. (Keep in mind, depending on your desired shape, you may use less or more highlight/contour to get the right definition for your nose.) With a fluffy brush, blend and soften the edges so the highlight gradually fades back into your skin color.

STEP 5: To bring the mouth forward, highlight just above the cupid’s bow to make your lip shape more prominent. Lightly pat the highlight just under the lower lip around the outer corners, and then directly below the center of the bottom lip in an upside-down triangle shape. Another trick that can be used to define and shape the mouth is to use lip liner to create the shape, and then using a precise, concealer brush to very carefully apply outside to really give a crisp lip line. Use a fluffy eye brush (like the one we used in the third step) to blend the edges of the highlights with the foundation.

STEP 6: If you aren’t planning to wear eyeshadow and the like, use a tapered crease brush to lightly apply the contour shade and following the natural curve of your eye to create more depth. With the same brush, apply thin lines of contour down the sides of the nose, and then lightly swish the brush in small, tight strokes to blend the contour shade with the highlight and foundation shades. When it comes to noses, we all have our preferences, and you may be angling for a narrower or wider nose; the narrower and closer the shadow and highlight are together, the narrower the nose will appear.

STEP 7: With a firm, flat, slightly angled brush, apply short strokes of the contour shade along the hair line, temples, and jawline. For the jawline, you typically wouldn’t bring the contour shade all the way to the center of the chin; only along the sides (about one third to two-thirds across, depending on your natural face shape and preferences), so that the chin doesn’t become so prominent that it juts out. With a lightly fluffy, angled brush, blend the contour shade to transition to the foundation color. It’s important that you blend slowly and with feathery strokes, because you don’t want to blend the contour so well that it disappears or makes a larger area just ever-so-slightly darker.

STEP 8: Lastly, contour cheeks by applying the contour shade underneath the cheekbones. Though an old technique, finding the hollow of the cheekbones is still easiest when I suck in my cheeks and make the ever-glamorous “fishy face.” It’s important to use your fingertips to feel for your bone structure, and you want to make sure the contour isn’t too low on the face, so I usually use the structure as my guide and contour right below it. You’ll want to have the contour shade applied from about the ears to half-way to two-thirds down the face. Let your face and natural bone structure be your guide, and you can always soften and blend out if it is too heavy–or add more definition if it is too subtle.

STEP 9: Set all of your hard work with a loose or pressed setting powder. (I used NARS Light Reflecting Loose Setting Powder applied with a lightly fluffy, large powder brush all over the face.  To finish, apply your eyeliner, mascara, lip color, and so forth.  For lips, I went with a mix of NARS Hyde Park and Jardin des Plantes Satin Lip Pencils.)

BONUS: Apply blush and/or a shimmery highlighter to further define cheeks. (For this, I used NARS Dolce Vita to blush and Albatross to highlight the tops of cheekbones and lightly around the cupid’s bow.)

Before Contouring / After Contouring with NARS Radiant Cream Compact Foundation

Before Blush/Powder Highlighter / After Blush/Powder Highlighter with NARS Dolce Vita and Albatross

Before Contouring / After Contouring / After Blush/Powder Highlighter

After Contouring with NARS Radiant Cream Compact Foundation

After Blush/Powder Highlighter with NARS Dolce Vita and Albatross

The new Urban Decay Electric Pressed Pigment Palette (review) went up for sale this morning, and here are two looks featuring the new palette with quick step-by-step instructions.  Just to reiterate, as per the back of the palette: “Warning: Slowburn, Savage, Jilted, and Urban are not intended for the immediate eye area.”.  Here’s Urban Decay’s response (per Facebook): “A few shades contain a colorant that has not yet been approved for the use around the immediate eye area. However, this restriction only applies in the U.S.; in every other country where Urban Decay is sold, these shades are approved for use around the eyes. Bottom line? We didn’t want to limit the Electric Palette to eyeshadow. It’s an artistry palette with unlimited possibilities! How you use these shades is up to you. (And no matter where you use them, you’ll get insane color payout.).”

Look #1

1. Apply Urban Eyeshadow to the lower third of the lid going horizontally across the upper lash line.
2. Apply Savage Eyeshadow to the upper third to half of the lid (right before the crease), lightly overlaying Urban Eyeshadow to blend.
3. Apply Slowburn Eyeshadow into the crease and blending above, towards the brow bone.
4. Apply X Eyeshadow above the crease and along the inner tearduct to soften and blend out Slowburn Eyeshadow.
5. Apply ABC Gum Eyeshadow on the brow bone and layer over the edge of Chaos Eyeshadow to bring everything together.
6. Apply darkest shade in Brown Sugar Brow Box with an angled brush to define brows.
7. Apply Scorch 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil to lower lash line.
8. Apply two coats of Supercurl Mascara to upper and lower lashes.
9. Apply Naked Skin Liquid Foundation (3.0 and 4.0) and buff into skin.
10. Apply Naked Flushed Bronzer to cheeks to add subtle warmth, and then lightly dust Naked Flushed Highlighter to cheek bones to highlight.
11. Apply Jilted Revolution Lipstick to lips and pat on Naked Ultra Nourishing Lipgloss for a bolder look or apply Naked Ultra Nourishing Lipgloss and mix in Streak Ultra Nourishing Lipgloss for a subtler lip color.

Look #2

1. Apply Thrash Eyeshadow to the inner third of the lid by patting shadow into place.
2. Apply Freak Eyeshadow to the middle of the lid and blend into Thrash.
3. Apply Fringe Eyeshadow to the outer third of the lid and blend into the outer corner/crease.
4. Apply Chaos Eyeshadow into the crease and blend above the crease.
5. Apply ABC Gum Eyeshadow on the brow bone and layer over the edge of Chaos Eyeshadow to bring everything together.
6. Apply darkest shade in Brown Sugar Brow Box with an angled brush to define brows.
7. Apply Chaos 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil to lower lash line, and then smudge Freak Eyeshadow underneath the eyeliner to brighten.
8. Apply two coats of Supercurl Mascara to upper and lower lashes.
9. Apply Naked Skin Liquid Foundation (3.0 and 4.0) and buff into skin.
10. Apply Naked Flushed Bronzer to cheeks to add subtle warmth, and then lightly dust Naked Flushed Highlighter to cheek bones to highlight.
11. Apply Streak Revolution Lipstick to lips.

See more photos!

Urban Decay Electric Pressed Pigment Palette Look

Urban Decay Electric Pressed Pigment Palette Look

Urban Decay Electric Pressed Pigment Palette Look

Urban Decay Electric Pressed Pigment Palette Look

Urban Decay Electric Pressed Pigment Palette Look

Urban Decay Electric Pressed Pigment Palette Look

Urban Decay Electric Pressed Pigment Palette Look

COVERGIRL recently launched their Bombshell collection, which features new cream eyeshadows, mascara, and liquid eyeliner. They asked me to create a tutorial featuring some of the new products, so here’s what I came up with: a sultry, smoky eye that can be paired with a softer pink lip or a more intense, fuchsia-hued lip–depending on just how bold you want to go.

Beginning January 5th through January 25th, all COVERGIRL products will be buy one, get one 50% off at ULTA Beauty.  Plus, we’re giving away products from the COVERGIRL Bombshell collection with a $100 ULTA Beauty gift card!   COVERGIRL will be hosting a Twitter Party on January 6th at 9PM EST, so be sure to check that out!

a Rafflecopter giveaway

Products You’ll Need

• COVERGIRL Bombshell Shine Shadow by LashBlast in Ice Queen, Ooh La Lilac, Platinum Card
• COVERGIRL Flamed Out Shadow Pot in Melted Caramel, Charcoal, Molten Black
• COVERGIRL Bombshell Intensity Liner in Pitch Black Passion
• COVERGIRL Bombshell Volume by LashBlast Mascara in Very Black
• COVERGIRL LipPerfection LipColor in Bombshell, Darling
• Flat, firm brushes for cream eyeshadow application
• Small crease brush
• Fluffy blending brush
• Small eyeliner brush

See more photos and get the how-to!

How-to:

1. With a flat, firm brush, apply COVERGIRL Bombshell Shine Shadow by LashBlast in Ice Queen over the inner third of the lid. Lightly pat and pull the color across the skin, and then with very light, feathery motions, move the edge of the brush horizontally against the harsh edge to soften.
2. Then, apply COVERGIRL Bombshell Shine Shadow by LashBlast in Ooh La Lilac to the middle and outer portions of the lid using another flat, firm brush. You’ll want to bring it just barely into the crease, and then soften that edge.
3. To add some depth, apply COVERGIRL Bombshell Shine Shadow by LashBlast in Platinum Card to the outer corner and the outer crease using a smaller, flat and firm brush. Lightly pat and feather the brush across the skin to soften and blend out any harsh lines.
4. Next, apply COVERGIRL Flamed Out Shadow Pot in Molten Black with a small, slightly tapered, crease brush to the outer corner and crease to provide additional darkness and depth to the look. Use short, small strokes and concentrate on blending out the color so it creates a gradient above and over the crease, towards the brow bone.
5. Using the same small crease brush, apply COVERGIRL Flamed Out Shadow Pot in Melted Caramel along the edge of the soft black crease color, as this color will help to transition and ease the gradient as it moves towards the brow bone. For fairer complexions, you may want to use something just slightly darker than your natural skin tone.
6. With a fluffy brush, apply your favorite highlight shade underneath the brow, along the brow bone, to accentuate and pull it forward.
7. For cheeks, a soft, natural brown works well to give a little definition and color to cheeks without being dramatic. I lightly patted COVERGIRL Flamed Out Shadow Pot in Melted Caramel with fingertips just underneath my cheek bones.
8. Now, for lips, you can choose your own adventure! Smoky eyes pair well with beiges, peaches, light pinks, or even bolder shades like fuchsia, berry, plum, and red. For a lighter lip color, I went with COVERGIRL LipPerfection LipColor in Darling. For the bolder lip color, I wore COVERGIRL LipPerfection LipColor in Bombshell.

With a bolder lip color

With a lighter lip color

How-to: Merry Makeup

This is my look for Christmas Eve  It is definitely similar to what I normally opt for over Christmas!  This year, I decided to use green eyeliner rather than green eyeshadow.  You could add glitter over the lid for added sparkle, too.

Eyes: Begin by using a fluffy crease brush (I used MUFE #17S) and apply a red-burgundy eyeshadow (I used Inglot #450 Eyeshadow) into the crease and blending towards the outer corner as well. Next, apply a honey gold eyeshadow (I used Inglot #430 Eyeshadow) with a firm eyeshadow brush (I used MAC 239) on the outer two-thirds of the lid. Apply a soft, warm orange eyeshadow (I used Inglot #403 Eyeshadow) on the inner third of the lid. To highlight the brow bone, apply a shimmery beige/white eyeshadow (I used Inglot #395 Eyeshadow) just underneath the brow bone, then pat a matte beige eyeshadow (I used Burberry Trench) between the crease color and the brow highlight to soften the shimmer finish. Finally, line the lower lash line with a deep green/teal (I used MAC Junkie), and then apply a liquid gold eyeliner (I used Urban Decay Eldorado) to brighten and add sparkle.

Face: Prep face by moisturizing, then applying any face primers (I used Eve Pearl’s Moisturizing Primer). I applied a few drops and dabs of liquid foundation (I used Giorgio Armani Maestro) and blend out using a dense foundation brush (I used Hourglass’ Foundation Brush). Next, apply a natural blusher, which will depend on your complexion, with either brown or plum tones (I used Kevyn Aucoin Natura) with a soft blush brush (I used Bobbi Brown’s Blush Brush). Finish the look by setting with pressed or loose powder (I used Guerlain Wulong) with a large, bluffy brush (I used MAC 138).

Lips: Prep lips by keeping them hydrated prior to applying lip color–I usually have lip balm on whenever I’m not wearing a lip color, but if you don’t usually do this, try applying a lip balm 20 minutes prior (or more), then lightly blot off right before you apply your lip color. Apply a berry-red lipstick (I used Guerlain Gigolo) onto lips, and then lightly pat a shimmering gold gloss (I used Bobbi Brown Canary) on top for sparkle and shine.

One more photo of the whole kit ‘n’ caboodle look… 

Video: DIY Halloween Blood, Slime, Scars, and Gore

A special treat (or is it a trick?) for Temptalia readers from the incredibly talented Dusty! (And his alter-ego Count Raven InSaNe, who you’ll see in the intro and outro!) Check out Dusty’s YouTube channel for more amazing Halloween tutorials! You can also get in-depth reviews on Halloween beauty products (and non-Halloween products, during the rest of the year!) on his blog.

About Dusty

Born and raised in the Pacific Northwest, Dustin Hunter has been designing various media since his early teen years. Studying several different art forms, Hunter’s creative background ranges from illustration and photography to fashion and interior design to music production and makeup artistry. He has worked for over a decade as a professional illustrator and his retail interior design concepts have been featured in nation-wide publications, receiving recognition for their uniqueness and creativity. As a makeup artist, Dustin Hunter combines his love of music and visual art to construct images of experimental beauty for both stage and photography; creating avant-garde makeup looks for photographers, performers and musicians.

Video: Mid-Week in Review, Vol. 004

We spent the majority of the beginning of the week taking a look at MAC’s Office Hours Collection, which hits stores today. Don’t forget to subscribe!

Products mentioned:

• MAC Pro Longwear Lipglasses
• MAC Pro Longwear Blushes (Part 2)
• MAC Pro Longwear Eyeshadows (Part 2)

Makeup Breakdown

On eyes: Hourglass Suede Eyeshadow Duo (beige), Hourglass G*psy Eyeshadow Duo (burgundy), Inglot #452 Eyeshadow, Burberry Trench Eyeshadow, Tarina Tarantino Ultraviolet Eyeliner, Giorgio Armani Eyes to Kill Intense Waterproof Mascara. On face: Guerlain Parure Gold (02 and 03), Guerlain Les Voilettes (03), Buxom Swept Away. On lips: Guerlain Bee Rouge G Lipstick.

Video: Week in Review, Vol. 003

It’s been a rather busy week!  Over the past few days, we looked at a new holiday palette from theBalm, MAC’s most recent Viva Glam release, as well as a collaboration lipstick called Yung Rapunxel. We also discovered two fun Illamasqua pieces this week!  Subscribe to our channel if you enjoy the videos!

Products Mentioned

• theBalm Balm Jovi Face Palette
• Illamasqua Naked Rose Blush
• MAC Viva Glam Nicki Lipglass
• Illamasqua Obsidian Eyeshadow
• MAC Lipsticks
• Zoya Suri Nail Lacquer
• MAC Yung Rapunxel Lipstick
• NARS Andy Warhol Collection

Makeup Breakdown

On eyes: Tom Ford Emerald Lust Eye Color Quad, Burberry Trench Eyeshadow, Tom Ford Exotic Teal Eye Defining Pencil, and Giorgio Armani Eyes to Kill Waterproof Mascara. On cheeks: Buxom Euphoria Blush. On lips: Bobbi Brown Canary High Shimmer Lipgloss, Revlon Sizzle ColorBurst Lipgloss, Clarins 05 Gloss Prodige.

Video Review: Urban Decay Dangerous, Feminine, Fun, Ocho Loco

Video overview of the recent holiday releases from Urban Decay!

Products Mentioned

• Urban Decay Dangerous Eyeshadow Palette (2012)
• Urban Decay Feminine Eyeshadow Palette (2012)
• Urban Decay Fun Eyeshadow Palette (2012)
• Urban Decay Ocho Loco 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil Set

Makeup Breakdown

On eyes: Urban Decay Fun Palette (Maui Wowie on inner tear duct, Stray Dog on middle of lid, Deep End on outer lid, Fishnet in crease and diffused above, Freakshow in crease, Sellout on brow bone), Urban Decay Perversion Eyeliner (waterline), Urban Decay LSD Eyeliner (lower lash line), and Giorgio Armani Eyes to Kill Lengthening Mascara. On face: Make Up For Ever HD Foundation (125), NARS Satellite of Love Highlighting Blush, Guerlain Les Voilettes Mineral Powder. On lips: Revlon Hot Pink ColorBurst Lipgloss.