Skill Level: Beginner-Moderate



Start with a clean, blank eye – unlike me (WTF to the dark fall out, I just came out of the shower!). You will need the following products: Melon pigment, Pinked Mauve pigment, Blue pigment (RR), Rule e/s, Fuchsia pigment, Freshwater e/s, Deep Truth e/s, Living Pink e/s, Orange Tangent e/s, Nylon e/s, Pink Papillon e/s, Goldmine e/s, and Reflecto soft glitter liner. Use skin , mascara, and lip products of your choice. I chose Foolish Me blush for my cheeks, and a combination of Vibrant O l/s and Petit Four l/g for my lips.


Using your pigment brush, dampen it slightly with MAC’s water-based mixing medium and pick up some Melon pigment. Apply using the brush flat against your inner lid. Precision is not necessary. We will be splitting the lid into three distinctive color sections, so you are looking to cover about one third or less of the lid in Melon pigment.

Like so.

Repeat the technique you used for Melon pigment, only pick up Pinked Mauve pigment. The placement should occur on the middle of your lid, and again, the brush can be held flat against the lid starting just above the crease and dragging it downwards.

It should look something like this after you’ve applied it.

Again, the same technique will be used with Blue pigment (Rebel Rock edition) on the outer lid (the last third).

After you have applied the three pigments, your lid should resemble this. Congratulations, you have just applied your base.

Notice that all three colors, when applied, go above the crease line. This is important because this allows us to blend in a crease color easily.

Using your shadow brush, pick up some Rule e/s and pack it over the Melon pigment.

Even out any problems by holding your brush vertical and brushing outwards, but be careful not to brush too far, otherwise you will turn your Pinked Mauve into Oranged Mauve.

Ooh, bright orange, yes!

The same application technique used for applying Pinked Mauve applies to Fuchsia pigment. We will be using this dry, not wet (like the other pigments), and you want to hold the brush flat against the middle of your lid, starting at the top of the Pinked Mauve.

Gently drag your brush downwards to spread out the Fuchsia pigment onto the area.

When you finish, you should have a bright pink color area that looks like this.

Again, similar to the technique on applying the Blue pigment, we do it with Freshwater e/s. Freshwater e/s is nearly identical to Blue pigment, but this helps to even out the consistency of the shades and really bring that blue color together.

The line between the pink and the blue is very harsh, though not completely ugly. I prefer well-blended lines, so, pick up some Living Pink e/s with your shadow brush. Hold the brush vertically against your lid, over the pink region, right before it changes to blue, and then pull the brush outwards, slightly over the blue. This will change it to purple, don’t be scared, that’s what happens when pink meets blue.

You can further ensure you’ve blended it appropriately by turning the brush horizontal to your lid and gently jiggle it down the purple area.

This is what you should have on your lid right now.

Not enough pink, so I went back and added a little more Fuchsia pigment to the pink area.

Which will yield this result; subtle, but still there.

Using the shadow brush, pick up some Deep Truth e/s; this shadow has enormous color payoff, so a little is all you need. It’s easier to go back and darken or add color than it is to reduce it. Start on the very outer edge of the blue color region, and hold your brush vertical to your lid, and dab the color on. Softly sweep it into the regular bright blue color, but don’t cover the entire blue area with Deep Truth e/s; that would defeat the purpose of having dimension/color differences.

Bring Deep Truth e/s up and into your crease by twisting your brush and pulling the color from the outer edge and into the crease.

Go as far as your inner crease, but do not go too far down into the orange area.

You will get something similar to this, and yes, it is purple, not blue anymore.

Go back and pick up more Rule e/s and apply it to your inner corner and inner crease. This will lighten out some of the purple, as it mixes with the orange area and the crease.

Pull the orange shadow all the way up, right under your inner brow, go as far into the crease as the middle.

See how the added Rule e/s has significantly altered the purple crease we had before? But note that it is still darker than the orange itself.

Using your shadow brush, pick up plenty of Orange Tangent e/s and place your brush horizontally against your brow, and place the color there.

Drag your brush up towards your arch, and then downwards and outwards, following the line of your brow.

Similarly, pick up some Pink Papillon e/s and apply it between the crease area we were working on before and the brow highlight we just finished with, and place it there, and gently brush upwards and outwards, following the same line as you did with Orange Tangent e/s.

You should now have an eyelid that looks like this.

The crease line still seems out of place, so to correct whatever errors [I have] made in the process, using your shadow brush, pick up some Goldmine e/s. Apply right over the middle of the crease with your brush held horizontally. Place in the middle crease, but do not extend to the outer crease, instead move your brush so that it goes over it slightly.

This looks better, especially because it sort of turns orangey when mixed with the previous Pink Papillon e/s that was applied in the same area. Next, add Deep Truth e/s to your lower lash line by holding the brush horizontally against your lower lash line. Don’t pull the skin downwards, rather just look straight and out. Take your time, so you don’t end up turning your eyeball blue. After this, add Reflecto soft pencil glitter liner to your lower lash line (not your waterline…), slather your lashes with your mascara of choice, and finish your face with the rest of the products you generally use.

I used Melon pigment, Pinked Mauve pigment, Blue pigment (RR), Rule e/s, Fuchsia pigment, Freshwater e/s, Deep Truth e/s, Living Pink e/s, Orange Tangent e/s, Nylon e/s, Pink Papillon e/s, Goldmine e/s, and Reflecto soft glitter liner. I chose Foolish Me blush for my cheeks, and a combination of Vibrant O l/s and Petit Four l/g for my lips.