Tuesday, September 24th, 2013

Wet 'n' Wild I Don't Do Camouflage Color Icon Eyeshadow Trio
Wet ‘n’ Wild I Don’t Do Camouflage Color Icon Eyeshadow Trio

Wet ‘n’ Wild I Don’t Do Camouflage Color Icon Eyeshadow Trio ($2.99 for 0.12 oz.) is one of four new–and limited edition–Color Icon Eyeshadow Trios for fall. According to the brand, each trio features “highly pigmented shades” with a variety of finishes and pre-packaged with a tube of Mega Protein Mascara as a bonus. The trio will be available at local drugstores (not online as far as I know), though I haven’t spotted any displays near me yet (but I never seem to catch them!). I’m afraid that this trio is a major miss for me, once again. I had fingers and toes crossed for a return to pigmentation, but all three shades were lacking in quality. The eyelid shade had promising pigmentation, but the powdery texture was worrisome and ultimately was its downfall. I tried these on bare lids (about two to three hours of wear), with eyeshadow primer (NARS and Urban Decay) (four to five hours of wear), and then over NYX’s Milk (creamy white) and nothing was working. Even over what is typically the saving grace of most pitiful eyeshadows, it was faded, patchy, and uneven within three hours (and then almost gone entirely by the sixth hour).

I hope to review the other trios soon, but as a heads up, I’m not sure I will be reviewing any additional releases of the Color Icon Eyeshadow formula unless there is a drastic improvement. At this point, I think it’s clear that there is something different about the recent iterations of the formula compared to the previous (as well as what’s permanently available).

I Don’t Do Camouflage #1 is a pale, cool-toned blue with hints of purple and an icy silver shimmer. The texture was very powdery, and as a result, the color payoff was semi-sheer. This shade gave me the most trouble in the palette, as it was prone to blending away to nothing when applied to the lid. CoverGirl Ice Flame is a cream product. MAC Water & Ice is more frosted, more silver. MAC Bright Moon is darker. See comparison swatches.

I Don’t Do Camouflage #2 is a blackened navy blue with lighter navy blue satin shimmer. It had so-so color payoff, but the texture was somewhat stiff and dry. I recommend using a stiff brush and jabbing at the surface to dislodge more product before applying. NARS Ubangi is a cream product. Disney Midnight is similar. Urban Decay Occupy is brighter. MAC Waft is darker. MAC Shop & Drop is a bit bluer. bareMinerals Shaken Not Stirred is slightly bluer. Make Up For Ever #147 is similar. See comparison swatches.

I Don’t Do Camouflage #3 is a brightened, medium-dark cornflower blue with a soft, satin shimmer. It had good color payoff, though the texture was somewhat powdery. Uhnfortunately, I had a really tough time trying to pat this and have it stick to the lid, even when I used an eyeshadow primer or NYX Milk, which is a creamy eyeshadow pencil. It had such potential, but the powderiness just ruins it. Sephora My Boyfriend’s Jeans is darker. Sugarpill Velocity is brighter. Urban Decay Chaos is darker, more matte. NARS Rated R #2 is lighter. Sugarpill ROyal Sugar is brighter, more sparkly. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

LE
palette

I Don't Do Camouflage

F

Product

4.5/10

Pigmentation

6.5/10

Texture

6/10

Longevity

3.5/10

Application

3/5

Results
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LE
product

I Don't Do Camouflage #1

F

Product

4/10

Pigmentation

4/10

Texture

6/10

Longevity

3/10

Application

3/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

I Don't Do Camouflage #2

F

Product

4/10

Pigmentation

6.5/10

Texture

5/10

Longevity

3/10

Application

3/5

Results
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Dupes
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Monday, September 23rd, 2013

Le Metier de Beaute Champagne Shimmer True Colour Creme Eyeshadow
Le Metier de Beaute Champagne Shimmer True Colour Creme Eyeshadow

Le Metier de Beaute True Colour Creme Eyeshadow ($28.00 for 0.17 oz.) is described as a “long-wearing,” “waterproof,” and crease-resistant. I will respectfully disagree with all three things and not just slightly but fully. Both shades were extremely emollient, and they never set or dried down; they remained movable, slippery, and as a result, slid around and settled into creases with great delight within a half hour. This occurred whether applied at more opaque color or as a barely-there, sheer wash of color. So, long-wearing and crease-resistant–not at all. They’re more water-resistant than waterproof (which is actually a separate claim that gets made: -resistant vs. -proof), as they won’t immediately start running or bleeding when in contact with water, but they do migrate somewhat and will move if you rub. The latter probably has more to do with the fact that they don’t set/dry down.

I did try using the Champagne Shimmer shade on my cheeks and brow bone as a highlight, but the look is very, very dewy–or in my eyes, greasy–and separated my foundation within an hour. I also tried applying these over a primer and then patting on powder eyeshadow on top, which was the most successful way to use them, but I had significant creasing after four and a half hours.

Champagne Shimmer is a light-medium brown with warm, reddish-orange undertones, and a champagne and copper shimmer. It had good color payoff and could be applied as a light wash of color or more intensely for opaque color. A little goes a long way, so apply just a smidgen for a wash of color. CoverGirl Scorching Cocoa is a bit darker, not as red-toned. Clinique Ample Amber is less red-toned. Tom Ford Platinum is slightly darker. Illamasqua Focus is grayer. See comparison swatches.

Starry Night is a medium-dark black with silver sparkle. It can be applied with mostly opaque color or a semi-sheer wash of color. MAC Blacklit is similar. Chanel Mirifique is darker and more sparkly. Buxom Black Lab is similar. See comparison swatches.

Also, this is also a “review” so-to-speak of the September 2013 Beauty Vault VIP Subscription Box, as both of these shades were what I received in this past month’s box. The box, then, had a total value of $56 (and the subscription works out to be $29/month). The box also included a postcard that provided information about the included products. Subscribers did receive the products ahead of them officially being released on Saks by a week or two. After two months, we’re at a total value of $310.

The Glossover

P
product

Champagne Shimmer

F

Product

2/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

1/10

Application

2/5

Results
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Dupes
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product

Starry Night

F

Product

2/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

1/10

Application

2/5

Results
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Dupes

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Wednesday, September 18th, 2013

MAC Smoked Cocoa Eyeshadow Quad
MAC Smoked Cocoa Eyeshadow Quad

MAC Smoked Cocoa Eyeshadow Quad ($44.00 for 0.19 oz.) is a new and limited edition palette from the upcoming RiRi Hearts MAC (Fall Edition) that launches at MAC stores on September 26th, online on September 30th, and counters and international locations on October 3rd.

Edited at 9/18 at 10:24AM PST: It features four eyeshadows, and the eyeshadows do not have names (only the actual quad has a name). Originally, the shades were listed with working names (so they are not finalized and often serve as placeholders). When I wrote the review, I swatched each shade to the corresponding working name (because they were permanent shades) to try to determine if, in fact, they were the same. I’ve kept that information below, but I wanted to update and clarify based on information I received this morning. I also received official shade descriptions and corresponding finishes, which I’ve added to the shades below.

To that end, I swatched each supposedly permanent shade against the individual, permanent eyeshadow I had previously (some of mine are quite old, so you may find quality differences even when colors are similar). I’ve included these swatches below for your reference. The only one that was wildly different was Smoked Cocoa #1, which was listed as Shroom–it is much, much cooler-toned and lighter. My Copperplate (which is from the original release of the Matte2 formula, so several years ago) is darker/more pigmented than Smoked Cocoa #2–the texture of my original definitely had a more buttery, silky feel, but they looked nearly identical when I compared the pans.

Smoked Cocoa #1 is described as a “dirty cool champagne [with a Veluxe Pearl finish].” It is a cool-toned, off white with a frosted finish. It had fairly good color payoff, and it applied smoothly and evenly. It lasted well for eight hours before showing signs of fading. MAC Winterscape is similar. MAC Star Crystal is a touch pinker. MAC Creamy Bisque is less frosted. See comparison swatches.

Smoked Cocoa #2 is described as a “muted mid-tone grey [with a Matte2 finish].” It’s a neutral-cool taupe with a matte finish. It had a soft, finely-milled texture but was noticeably less silky compared to my original Copperplate eyeshadow (which this was listed as in my information), and as a result, Smoked Cocoa #2 appeared lighter when swatched side-by-side, though in the pans they both looked the same. It applied easily and blended out well. This wore well without showing signs of fading until nine hours of wear. Maybelline Tough as Taupe is grayer and a cream product. bareMinerals Rowdy is cooler-toned. See comparison swatches.

Smoked Cocoa #3 is described as a “black with silver pearl [with a Lustre finish].” It is a darkened matte black base with fine silver sparkle and shimmer. This could be a number of eyeshadows, and it could very well be Black Tied as it was originally listed as, since Black Tied is essentially a matte black base with silver sparkle. If it’s any consolation, my permanent pan of Black Tied is even worse. The quality of this shade was horrendous; it was dry, patchy, and incredibly sheer. It was a total pain to apply and blend out on the lid. It seemed faded after seven hours. There are so many of these types of shades on the market, and the main way they differ is that some are more pigmented than others. See comparison swatches.

Smoked Cocoa #4 is described as a “dirty black charcoal [with a Satin finish].” It is a bluish black, so it looks almost gray at times, but it is still quite a dark shade. It looked really deep in the pan, but this did not translate in application as the pigmentation was very, very weak. The texture is dry, stiff, and a total pain in the behind to use. It didn’t want to apply smoothly, and blending this shade out took far more patience than I had. It looked noticeably faded after six hours of wear. There was a very fine hint of navy micro-shimmer in the shade that I didn’t really catch in my permanent pan of Nehru, so while I think they are certainly similar (especially when applied–those micro-shimmers never show up!), they may not be the same shade. MAC Fashion Legend is darker, less blue. LORAC Black is darker. MAC Typographic is grayer, matte. bareMinerals Amnesia is darker. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

palette

Smoked Cocoa

F

While two shades perform decently, two are not just poor, but truly horrendous shades from the pigmentation to texture to wear. They're not blendable, and at $44, there are so many better options on the market for a smoky eye palette. It's not just disappointing but feels like a genuine slap in the face as a long-time MAC customer and fan to see such a lack of quality in a palette created for a highly-anticipated launch.

Product

5/10

Pigmentation

5/10

Texture

5.5/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

3.5/5

Results
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LE
product

Smoked Cocoa #1

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

Smoked Cocoa #2

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Thursday, September 12th, 2013

Laura Mercier Sage Longwear Eye Pencil
Laura Mercier Sage Longwear Eye Pencil

Laura Mercier Sage Longwear Eye Pencil ($24.00 for 0.04 oz.) is a medium-dark, olive green with yellow undertones and a matte finish. It had decent color payoff in a single stroke, and it was somewhat buildable to semi-opaque color coverage. With three or four passes, it was mostly opaque on the lash line. This shade lasted well for nine hours but looked substantially thinned out (but no smudging or migrating) after twelve hours. MAC Forever Green is more shimmery. bareMinerals 10AM is darker, slightly shimmery. See comparison swatches. Even with all of these olive green eyeliners, the matte finish makes this one stand out.

Slate Longwear Eye Pencil ($24.00 for 0.04 oz.) is a neutral, medium-dark gray–or it would be if it had any color payoff whatsoever. It had a really waxy consistency, which I expect is part of the reason why this had such poor pigmentation. No matter how many times I tried to layer it, it was always sheer and uneven. It seemed to look as bad ten hours later as it did when I initially applied it; all that waxiness kept what little applied in place, I guess. Urban Decay Smoke is similar. Urban Decay Uzi has shimmer. bareMinerals 11PM is lighter. Bobbi Brown Smoke is cooler-toned. See comparison swatches.

Violet Longwear Eye Pencil ($24.00 for 0.04 oz.) is a medium-dark cool-toned purple with a matte finish. The consistency on this was slightly waxy with just so-so color payoff, but it was more buildable than Slate. For a purple, it wasn’t half bad. It wore well for eight and a half hours but was noticeably thinner after ten hours of wear. Urban Decay Vice is warmer and shimmery. Urban Decay Ransom is more shimmery, cooler-toned. NARS St. Marks Place is cooler-toned, more violet. Milani Perfect Purple is more shimmery. MAC Designer Purple is also more shimmery. See comparison swatches.

Laura Mercier’s new Longwear Creme Eye Pencils are supposed to apply smoothly and evenly, be richly pigmented, last for 12 hours (yes, a full 12!), be “water-poof, smudge-proof, transfer-proof, and tear-resistant.” Each pencil comes with a pencil sharpener as well. They’re definitely water-resistant to water-proof overall, though I will say that it was difficult to determine the outcome of Slate when splashed with water, given it already looked faded from the get-go! I was disappointed in the texture of Slate and Violet, with Violet being salvageable, but Slate had no redeeming factors.

The Glossover

P
product

Sage

B+
It had decent color payoff in a single stroke, and it was somewhat buildable to semi-opaque color coverage. With three or four passes, it was mostly opaque on the lash line. This shade lasted well for nine hours but looked substantially thinned out (but no smudging or migrating) after twelve hours.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
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product

Slate

F
It had a really waxy consistency, which I expect is part of the reason why this had such poor pigmentation. No matter how many times I tried to layer it, it was always sheer and uneven.

Product

3/10

Pigmentation

3/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

2.5/5

Results
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Dupes
P
product

Violet

C+
The consistency on this was slightly waxy with just so-so color payoff, but it was more buildable than Slate. For a purple, it wasn't half bad. It wore well for eight and a half hours but was noticeably thinner after ten hours of wear.

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

7.5/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Dupes

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Sunday, September 8th, 2013

Bobbi Brown Rich Chocolate Eye Palette
Bobbi Brown Rich Chocolate Eye Palette

Bobbi Brown Rich Chocolate Eye Palette ($52.00 for 0.28 oz.) contains seven eyeshadows with five matte eyeshadows, one Shimmer Wash eyeshadow, and one Sparkle eyeshadow, plus a dual-ended brush all held in a glossy black palette. The matte eyeshadows are nicely pigmented and have a soft, smooth feel to them, though all of them were so soft that they had a tendency to also be somewhat powdery. The two shimmery shades were much less pigmented and had a drier, stiffer texture that made it difficult to pick up color–I really had to jab at the pan to get anything to loosen. Luckily, despite being somewhat powdery, the matte eyeshadows still wore well on the lid–they were not prone to fading as powdery eyeshadows sometimes can be. They lasted well for eight hours with very minor fading along the edges but no creasing. Unfortunately, when two of the seven eyeshadows are disappointing, it may make the whole palette a no-go. If you really love warm neutrals, though, you may still be tempted.

Bone is described as an “off white.” It’s a light beige with a matte finish. It had good color payoff, though the texture was incredibly soft and silky, it was powdery. I highly recommend applying in layers to minimize excess powder fall out. This shade is part of the permanent range. Urban Decay Broken is warmer, more shimmery. theBalm Adagio is similar. Urban Decay Kinky is similar, slightly cooler-toned. Urban Decay Walk of Shame is more beige. MAC Vanilla is slightly warmer. L’Oreal Endless Pearl is yellower. bareMinerals Chance is cooler-toned. Inglot #355 has a slight sheen. See comparison swatches.

Stone is described as a “medium ash brown.” It’s a medium, neutral-toned brown with a matte finish. It had fairly good pigmentation though the texture was slightly powdery but very soft. LORAC Taupe is similar. bareMinerals Get Ahead is cooler-toned. Urban Decay Faint is cooler-toned, darker. MAC Moleskin is lighter. Inglot #342 is slightlyd arker. See comparison swatches.

Frappe is described as a “medium ash beige.” It’s a light-medium brown with soft, yellow-peach undertones and a matte finish. It had decent to good color payoff, but the texture was powdery. MAC Layin’ Low is a cream product, warmer. Inglot #337 is darker, more red-toned. Edward Bess Cosmic Bliss #1 is lighter. MAC Arena is shimmery. See comparison swatches.

Caramel is described as a “silvery brown sparkle.” It’s a silver-sparkled, medium-dark brown with warm, yellow undertones. The color payoff was incredibly disappointing as the product was stiff and dry, so even to get something to show up, I really had to scrape the product out of the pan. The sparkle doesn’t bind with the underlying powder at all, so the end result is a very uneven amount of sparkles. Burberry Pale Nude #1 has no sparkle. Bobbi Brown Praline is more shimmery, less sparkly. See comparison swatches.

Champagne Truffle is described as a “warm pink beige.” It’s a light-medium copper with warm, orange undertones. This was in a previous palette, and it looked much darker and was much more pigmented, so I don’t know why this iteration is so poor in comparison. It was semi-sheer, and the texture was stiff and hard to work with. Disney All Aglow is similar. Disney Wanderin’ Free is lighter. Urban Decay Moonflower is darker. bareMinerals Golden Iris is more golden. See comparison swatches.

Cocoa is described as a “warm ashy brown.” This shade is part of the permanent range. Bobbi Brown Bittersweet is a cream product and slightly shimmery. LORAC Sable is lighter. MAC Swiss Chocolate is yellower. Make Up For Ever #162 is darker, redder in tone. See comparison swatches.

Rich Chocolate is described as a “dark brown.” It’s a deep, dark, burgundy brown with a matte finish. It had really intense color payoff, but like the other mattes, though the powder was soft to the touch, it was powdery. theBalm Matt Batali is cooler-toned. MAC Set to Dance is darker. MAC Graphology is darker, cooler-toned.
MAC Embark is less red-toned. Make Up For Ever #162 is browner. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

LE
palette

Rich Chocolate

B-
The matte eyeshadows are nicely pigmented and have a soft, smooth feel to them, though all of them were so soft that they had a tendency to also be somewhat powdery. The two shimmery shades were much less pigmented and had a drier, stiffer texture that made it difficult to pick up color--I really had to jab at the pan to get anything to loosen.

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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product

Bone

B+

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

Stone

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Friday, September 6th, 2013

Wet 'n' Wild To Muse and Carouse Color Icon Eyeshadow Trio
Wet ‘n’ Wild To Muse and Carouse Color Icon Eyeshadow Trio

Wet ‘n’ Wild To Muse and Carouse Color Icon Eyeshadow Trio ($2.99 for 0.12 oz.) contains a peachy-orange, medium-dark brown, and light-medium blue all with matte finishes. Everything was powdery, and two of the shades were also chalky. I had major wear issues with these, as the eyeshadows on their own (not to sound like a broken record, but Wet ‘n’ Wild advertises the Color Icon formula as long-wearing and highly-pigmented, which is why the poor wear is such a problem) disappear in their entirety after five hours of wear–they were half-gone after three hours. It was like my lids were hungry for eyeshadow. Over a primer (I used Too Faced Shadow Insurance), they were slightly better–six hours with a fair amount of fading. Over a creamy base (I used NYX Milk), they performed the best and wore fairly well for seven hours, but you’ll be packing on the eyeshadow to get the color payoff to be true-to-pan.

To Muse and Carouse #1 is a light-medium orange with a matte finish. It’s chalky and somewhat powdery, but it had so-so color payoff. See comparison swatches.

To Muse and Carouse #2 is a medium-dark, warm-toned brown with a mostly matte finish. It was very powdery. See comparison swatches.

To Muse and Carouse #3 is a light-medium blue with a matte finish. It was incredibly sheer, powdery, and chalky. See comparison swatches.

* Please note: This is a quick review, so while I’ve still pulled dupes, I just haven’t gone through them one-by-one and broken out how they differ.

The Glossover

palette

To Muse and Carouse

F

The eyeshadows were powdery, chalky, and dry, which resulted in poor color payoff, uneven color application, color to fade quickly, and all-around disappointment.

Product

5/10

Pigmentation

6/10

Texture

5/10

Longevity

4.5/10

Application

3/5

Results
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LE
product

To Muse and Carouse #1

D-

Product

6/10

Pigmentation

7/10

Texture

6/10

Longevity

5/10

Application

3/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

To Muse and Carouse #2

D-

Product

6.5/10

Pigmentation

7/10

Texture

6/10

Longevity

5/10

Application

3/5

Results
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