Thursday, February 27th, 2014

Chanel Aqualumiere Gloss
Chanel Aqualumiere Gloss

The Chanel Jardin de Camelias Collection (an online exclusive) includes four shades of Aqualumiere Glosses ($29.50 for 0.20 fl. oz.). My information listed all of these as limited edition, but Chanel’s website is only listing Pink Pivoine (88) as being limited edition. If you’re not familiar with Aqualumiere Glosses, the formula is supposed to be comfortable to wear, give a “sheer wash of colour,” and have mirror-like shine. It has a brush-type applicator, while the consistency of the gloss is fairly thick but non-sticky. They’re very comfortable to wear, but I’ve never found them to last too long, so they need frequent reapplication. The formula is lightly hydrating and aren’t heavy, but they’re not lightweight (you can tell you’re wearing gloss). I didn’t notice any scent or taste when trying these.

Eau de Rose (86) has a sheer, pink-tinged base with cool-toned, icy, iridescent pink shimmer. It wore for two hours on me. MAC Asian Butterfly (LE, $19.00) is pinker. MAC Butterfly Dream (LE, $20.00) is less shimmery. Chanel Charming (LE, $29.50) is not quite as iridescent. MAC Icescape (LE, $15.00) is similar. See comparison swatches.

Rosace (87) is a light-medium, yellow-toned pink with soft white shimmer. It had semi-sheer color coverage, and it applied evenly for the most part. This shade lasted two and a half hours on me. bareMinerals Heartbreaker (LE, $18.00) is more opaque. Maybelline Petal Plush (100) (P, $8.99) is lighter. Maybelline Caramel Infused (065) (P, $8.99) is darker, pinker. See comparison swatches.

Pink Pivoine (88) is a medium, lightly warm-toned pink with no shimmer. It had semi-sheer color coverage, and it wore well for two hours on me. Urban Decay Flushed (P, $19.00) is less glossy, more pigmented. Chanel Murmure (179) (P, $29.50) is lighter. Paul and Joe Beaute Carnaval (06) (P, $29.00) is pinker. Maybelline Captivating Carnation (080) (P, $8.99) is cooler-toned. Maybelline Caramel Infused (065) (P, $8.99) is a little lighter. See comparison swatches.

Baie Rose (89) is a cool-toned, light-medium pink with blue undertones and a creamy, no-shimmer finish. It had semi-sheer color payoff, but it applied unevenly and looked splotchy. The color wore well for two and a half hours on me. Milani Pink Lady (07) (P, $5.49) is more pigmented. L’Oreal Florid Pink (LE, $7.99) is more pigmented, less glossy. Edward Bess First Kiss (P, $30.00) is more pigmented. MAC Petite Indulgence (LE, $20.00) is very similar. Chanel Insolence (P, $32.00) is very similar. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

LE
product

Eau de Rose (86)

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

6.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
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LE
product

Rosace (87)

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

Pink Pivoine (88)

B+

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

6.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Wednesday, February 26th, 2014

theBalm Eyeshadow Pans
theBalm Eyeshadow Pans

#13 is a dark, muted reddish burgundy with a satin-matte finish. It had fairly good color payoff, but the texture was somewhat powdery. It wore well for eight hours before showing signs of fading. Tom Ford Beauty Orchid Haze #4 (P) is purpler. Laura Mercier Kir Royal (P, $22.00) is more shimmery. MAC Festive Delight (LE, $15.00) is brighter. Chanel Eclosion #4 (P) is brighter, purpler, more shimmery. Le Metier de Beaute Crucible (LE, $30.00) is more shimmery. See comparison swatches.

#14 is a light, peachy-beige with warm undertones and a frosted finish. It had good pigmentation, and the texture was soft, smooth, and buttery. The color lasted well for eight and a half hours before beginning to fade. theBalm #4 (P, $6.50) is a smidgen warmer. Dior Pastel Fontanges #5 (LE) is pinker. NARS Jezebel (P) is warmer. Kat Von D Precious (LE) is similar. theBalm D2 (LE, $16.00) is similar. Tom Ford Beauty In the Pink #2 (LE) is darker. LORAC Champagne (P) is lighter. MAC Summer Honey (LE, $21.00) is more shimmery. theBalm Stubborn (P, $16.00) is darker. MAC Hush (P, $15.00) is less shimmery. Chanel Raffinement #2 (P) is less warm-toned. See comparison swatches.

#15 is a purple-shimmered, blackened eggplant–it ends up looking like a sooty, warm-toned gray with flecks of plummy-purple shimmer on top. The texture was dry and powdery, which resulted in uneven, semi-sheer color payoff. When applied to the lid, it had some slight fading after seven hours of wear. This one was difficult to dupe, partially because the color doesn’t quite translate from the pan to the swatch. Guerlain Crazy Paris #5 (LE) is purpler. MAC Beautymarked (P, $15.00) is darker. MAC Graphology (DC, $15.00) is darker, purpler. See comparison swatches.

#16 is a medium-dark, olive green with warm undertones and a golden sheen. It had fairly good pigmentation, and the texture was soft but not powdery. It lasted for eight hours before starting to fade along the edges. Tarina Tarantino Dandy Lion (LE) is darker. Makeup Geek Kryptonite (P, $6.99) is also darker. Urban Decay Jealous #1 (LE, $18.00) is darker. Urban Decay Mildew (P, $18.00) is darker. Dior Garden Pastels #1 (LE) is lighter. Inglot #412 (P, $6.00) is lighter. See comparison swatches.

#17 is a muted, medium-dark blue with a frosted finish. It had good color payoff, and the texture was soft, smooth, and blendable. The color wore well for just over eight hours before I saw some fading on the edges. Ulta Teal (P, $10.00) is brighter, lighter. L’Oreal Timeless Blue Spark (760) (P, $7.99) is brighter, lighter. bareMinerals Controversy (LE) is brighter. bareMinerals Vapor (P, $16.00) is lighter. See comparison swatches.

#18 is a light beige with warm undertones and a frosted finish. It had excellent pigmentation, and the consistency was really soft, smooth, and buttery. It wore well for eight and a half hours before it seemed to fade. Tarina Tarantino Jasper (P) is similar. bareMinerals Celebrate (LE) is lighter. MAC Tenderly (LE, $15.00) is less frosted. NARS Mississippi Mermaid (LE, $24.00) is pinker. theBalm D2 (LE, $16.00) is similar. LORAC Nude (P) is pinker. MAC Butternutty (LE) is a cream product. Dior Fairy Golds #1 (LE) is pinker. See comparison swatches.

There are forty-four shades of eyeshadows available in pan-form from theBalm, which launched at the beginning of this year. They can be purchased at their San Francisco store or by calling 415-817-1800. Each eyeshadow pan is available for $6.50 and comes in a cardboard sleeve. The 9-pan palette is $8.00, while the 16-pan palette is $10. If you fill either the 9- or 16-pan palette up at the time of purchase, they will run you $44.00 (normally, $66.50) and $64.00 (normally, $114.00) respectively. Each palette is made out of thick cardboard–same as theBalm’s eyeshadow palettes have been in the past–and come with full-sized mirrors on the top flap. For more information about sizes, the palettes, and a general overview of the custom palette/eyeshadow pan system, please read this post. You can view swatches all of them in the Swatch Gallery here or view photos and swatches on theBalm’s Eyeshadow Single product page.

The Glossover

P
product

#13

C+

Product

7.5/10

Pigmentation

7/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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P
product

#14

A

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
P
product

#15

F

Product

5/10

Pigmentation

5/10

Texture

5.5/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Tuesday, February 25th, 2014

NARS Vientiane Matte Multiple
NARS Vientiane Matte Multiple

NARS Vientiane Matte Multiple ($39.00 for 0.26 oz.) is described as a “copper bronze.” It’s a medium-dark brown with warm, orange-yellow undertones and a satin finish. It is surprisingly similar to NARS Cappadoce (P, $39.00), except Vientiane appears and applies darker on cheeks/lips. Guerlain Moyen Brunettes (05) (LE, $75.00) is a powder. Too Faced Sun Bunny #1 (P) is more shimmery, powder. Clarins Splendours (LE, $35.00) is brighter. Le Metier de Beaute Sun Drenched (P, $55.00) is very similar but a powder. See comparison swatches.

The finish of Vientiane seemed more like a true satin than a satin-matte or matte–there was a bit more sheen there. It was richly pigmented in a single swipe; there’ll be no trouble getting true-to-tube color with this shade. The formula is very much like the other six; velvety in feel, blendable, and not at all tacky. It dries down in two to three minutes giving you enough time to work with it to blend and sheer out as desired but not so long that it slips or slides on the skin. This shade wore well for almost eight hours (as a blush) and four hours (as a lip color) before starting to show signs of fading on me. It was moderately drying when worn as a lip color. For more of an overview of the Matte Multiple formula, check out this post.

The Glossover

P
product

Vientiane

B+

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Tuesday, February 25th, 2014

NARS Siam Matte Multiple
NARS Siam Matte Multiple

NARS Siam Matte Multiple ($39.00 for 0.26 oz.) is described as a “warm poppy red.” It’s a bright, deep red with warm undertones and a satin-matte finish–it is very true-to-description. theBalm Cobbler (P) is similar in color but has more of a sheen. Kevyn Aucoin Fira (P) is more orange, powder. NARS Exhibit A (P, $29.00) is more orange, powder. See comparison swatches.

If subtle blush is your game and fuss-free application is your name, Siam isn’t going to be up your alley. On the other hand, if you love richly pigmented, in-your-face blushes where a mere dab of color will get you a just-flushed coloring, you’ll love Siam. Even just a dab or two blended out is still very opaque and intense–a teeny tiny bit goes a very long way. This one was less blendable than the rest, and I think part of that is just the way the color can look the more it gets fussed with, which is splotchy, so it was really important to apply very little and build up, because if I applied too much, it didn’t blend out evenly. It could only be blended so much before it seemed to set and dry down, and then it was like, “Nope! Not budging.” NARS warns, on their website, that this shade may stain, and it does stain both cheeks as well as lips. I had very slight staining on my cheeks even eight hours after removing it, so you have to love the color. On my lips, the staining only lasted for a few hours after the lip color was removed. As a blush, the color lasted for nine hours before I removed it, and as a lip color, the color was still going strong after five hours but had noticeably settled into lip lines, so I would say good wear is only for about four hours. The lingering stain on the lips helped to downplay the settling, though. It also seemed more drying than some of the other shades I tried as a lip color. For more of an overview of the Matte Multiple formula, check out this post.

The Glossover

P
product

Siam

B+
Keep in mind, the rating is a reflection of the product used on cheeks as well as on lips, and the formula is clingy and drying when worn on the lips, whereas it performs better as a cream blush. Depending on what you're looking for, you might bump up the grade (in your mind) if you only would wear it on cheeks, or drop the overall rating if you just wanted a lip product.

Product

7.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Tuesday, February 25th, 2014

NARS Exumas Matte Multiple
NARS Exumas Matte Multiple

NARS Exumas Matte Multiple ($39.00 for 0.26 oz.) is described as a “pink apricot.” It’s a medium-dark, coral-orange with a smidgen of pink and a satin-matte finish. Sleek MakeUP Pink Mint (P, $6.99) is more shimmery, powder. NARS Final Cut (LE, $29.00) is lighter, powder. Make Up For Ever #410 HD Blush (P, $26.00) is pinker. Fyrinnae Nordic Angel (P, $6.50) is lighter, powder. Illamasqua Sleek (P, $26.00) is darker, pinker. Chanel Presage (62) (LE, $38.00) is slightly darker. theBalm Swiss Dot (P, $22.00) is more orange, powder. MAC Early Morning (LE, $25.00) is darker, powder. MAC Fiery Impact (LE, $25.00) is darker, more shimmery, powder. See comparison swatches.

The pigmentation was very true-to-tube with rich, intense color payoff in a single pass. The consistency had a velvety, silicone-heavy feeling that helped it apply smoothly and evenly, and it didn’t feel tacky or slick on the skin. It sets in a few minutes, and Exumas wore well for seven and a half hours on me (as a blush) and three hours (as a lip color). As a blush, I found the color and texture to be very blendable. For this type of texture, I really like applying the initial load of color with a stippling brush, and then I like to pat and blend into place with my fingertips. Again, I had trouble with this as a lip color, as it was quite drying and clingy, and it also appeared a bit lighter as a lip color than as a blush or as it seemed in the tube. For more of an overview of the Matte Multiple formula, check out this post.

The Glossover

P
product

Exumas

B+
Keep in mind, the rating is a reflection of the product used on cheeks as well as on lips, and the formula is clingy and drying when worn on the lips, whereas it performs better as a cream blush. Depending on what you're looking for, you might bump up the grade (in your mind) if you only would wear it on cheeks, or drop the overall rating if you just wanted a lip product.

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Monday, February 24th, 2014

NARS Cappadoce Matte Multiple
NARS Cappadoce Matte Multiple

NARS Cappadoce Matte Multiple ($39.00 for 0.26 oz.) is described as a “golden bronze.” It’s a medium-dark, orange-toned brown with strong, warm orange-yellow undertones and a semi-matte finish. Guerlain Moyen Brunettes (05) (LE, $75.00) is lighter, less warm-toned. MAC Exotic Ember (LE, $25.00) is darker, more shimmery. MAC Hibiscus Kiss Bronzer (LE, $25.00) is lighter. Clarins Splendours (LE, $35.00) is lighter. MAC Billionaire Bronze (LE, $29.50) is darker, shimmery. Le Metier de Beaute Sun Drenched (P, $55.00) is very similar but a powder product. See comparison swatches.

It was intensely pigmented, so there should be no trouble getting true-to-tube color! A little goes quite a long way, so I would recommend using a stippling brush to initially apply and build up the color. Depending on your skin tone, it may be a bronzer or contour shade (it seems a little warm to be a true contour, but it will depend on your natural undertones and coloring). To get a sheerer result, apply with a wet brush or sponge. The consistency was just lightly creamy and felt very silicone-like with a velvety, smooth texture. It was moderately drying (though slightly less drying than other shades) when worn on lips, and the color itself lasted for four hours. On cheeks, the color wore well for seven and a half hours before showing signs of fading. For more of an overview of the Matte Multiple formula, check out this post.

The Glossover

P
product

Cappadoce

B+

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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