Monday, September 9th, 2013

Urban Decay Anarchy Face Case
Urban Decay Anarchy Face Case

Urban Decay Anarchy Face Case ($44.00 for 0.43 oz.) includes five eyeshadows, one lip color, one eyeliner, two blushes, and one highlighter. Each eyeshadow is 0.03 oz., each blush is 0.05 oz., the highlighter is 0.05 oz., Super-Saturated High Gloss Lip Color is 0.10 oz., and the 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil is 0.03 oz. There is $54 worth of eyeshadows, $9 worth of blush (Urban Decay doesn’t currently sell powder blushes, so I took the price-per-ounce for the Naked Flush palette, which is the most comparable product I could think of), $19 worth of lip color, and $14 worth of eyeliner. The kit is at least $96 in value (the blush/highlighter could make the value higher if they were actually sold separately).

Two of the eyeshadows are quite glittery, so if you don’t like glitter eyeshadows, you may want to stay away. A third eyeshadow is sparkly but not as glittery as the other two. Provocateur hurts me on the inside, because it’s not just a glittery mess, but it’s poorly pigmented and gets everywhere and then some. It’s actually worse than it was last year. Scandal is amazing, and it’s a total bummer that the rest of the palette isn’t as good as the lip color. I hope Urban Decay will add Scandal to its permanent line-up of Super Saturated pencils in the future.

I also wish this palette was slimmer. It’s bulky to hold and handle; it just seems unnecessarily large. I just don’t see myself taking this to travel. I feel Urban Decay does everything bulky–it is rare that anything feels rightly-sized.

Scandal is described as a “bright metallic raspberry shimmer.” It’s a rich, vibrant pinky-red with metallic ruby shimmer and a glossy finish. This color knocked my socks off from the MOMENT I applied it to my lips. It is utterly spectacular in the coverage, consistency, and wear–it glides on with rich, even color that lasts five hours, plus a residual stain for another hour and a half or so. Milani Photo Flash is similar, not as red. Guerlain Pour Troubler is more muted. See comparison swatches.

Fetish is described as a “mauve-pink.” It’s a pinky-plum with a mostly matte finish. It had good color payoff, but it was a little stiff/dry, so it wasn’t as easy to blend as I would have liked to see. It wore well for seven and a half hours, and then it started looking faded after eight hours of wear. NARS Realm of the Senses #2 is darker. MAC Sweet Samba is more shimmery. NARS Oasis is more plum. Illamasqua Allure is bolder, deeper. See comparison swatches.

Quickie is described as a “bright pink.” It’s a bright, blue-based, light-medium pink with a matte finish. This had excellent color payoff with a soft, silky texture that was so soft that it was somewhat powdery. It did not look powdery on the skin, though, and it wore well for just under eight hours and started looking somewhat faded after eight and a half hours of wear. MAC Peony Petal is cooler-toned. MAC I’m the One is similar. Bobbi Brown Pastel Pink is similar. See comparison swatches.

Craze is described as a “pale gold shimmer.” It’s a pale, yellow-y beige with a frosted finish. It had good color payoff, but it can be sheered out or built up, depending on your desired intensity and finish. It slightly emphasized pores when applied with about medium coverage; if I blended it out a lot and went for a lighter coverage, it did not, but there’s some give and take there. It wore well for eight hours and looked slightly faded after nine hours of wear. Becca Moonstone is slightly yellower. theBalm Solid Gold is also a bit yellower. theBalm Mary Lou-manizer is also yellower. Illamasqua Aurora is similar but a cream product. See comparison swatches.

Redemption is described as a “deep gunmetal satin.” It’s a dark gray with cool undertones and a soft, frosted finish. It had good color payoff, and the texture was fairly soft and smooth. LORAC Slate is a touch lighter. Disney Jetsam is less blue. Disney Flotsam is less shimmery. theBalm Matt McDonald is lighter. Urban Decay Ace is less shimmery. Make Up For Ever #1 is a cream product. Bobbi Brown Gunmetal is similar. See comparison swatches.

Fray is described as a “warm mauve matte.” It’s a neutral, pink-beige with a matte finish. It was soft, finely-milled, and just a tiny bit powdery. The color payoff was good, though, and it was easy to blend on the lid. Urban Decay Freestyle is warmer. Urban Decay Laced is a touch darker. MAC Bloom On is similar. Chanel Rose de Mai is darker, pinker. Inglot #341 is darker, warmer. See comparison swatches.

Vaporize is described as a “deep metallic gray-taupe shimmer.” It’s a neutral-cool taupe–a mix of gray and brown–with a sparkly, almost glittery, finish. I had issues with fall out with this one, even though it was fairly pigmented. Marc Jacobs The Starlet #7 is similar, less glittery. Disney Kill Joy is lighter. theBalm Selfish is less sparkly. Urban Decay Armor is darker, grayer. NARS Grand Palais #1 is lighter. MAC Satin Taupe is darker, less sparkly. See comparison swatches.

Provocateur is described as a “light metallic mauve shimmer with multidimensional micro-glitter.” It’s a muted, rosy pink with darker pink glitter. This shade had really poor color payoff and really chunky, loose glitter that just got everywhere. It was fall out during application but throughout the wear. I ended up needing to re-test the shades in this without using this, because it was impossible to tell if any others were responsible! It’s actually worse than it was in last year’s Vice palette. Tom Ford Enchanted is similar but less glittery. MAC Heirloom is less pink, cream. Giorgio Armani #29 is pinker, less glittery. Bobbi Brown Pink Rose is similar. See comparison swatches.

Revolt is described as a “bright metallic silver shimmer with silver micro-glitter.” It’s a bright silver with silver micro-glitter. It had so-so pigmentation and was incredibly glittery–not as bad asd Provocateur but still frustrating to work with. Urban Decay Shellshock is more pigmented and less glittery. Giorgio Armani Silver Chafer is more metallic, less glittery. Marc Jacobs The Starlet #6 is less glittery. NARS Silver Factory is a cream product. MAC Extra Silver is more metallic, less glittery. See comparison swatches.

Perversion is described as a “blackest black matte.” It’s a deep, dark black with a matte finish. This is part of the permanent range, and if you tend to buy Urban Decay products, you probably have this already. It wears long and well for at least eight hours and then starts to thin out for me after nine to ten hours of wear, but it doesn’t migrate or smudge. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

LE
palette

Anarchy

B-

Two of the eyeshadows are quite glittery, so if you don't like glitter eyeshadows, you may want to stay away. A third eyeshadow is sparkly but not as glittery as the other two. Provocateur hurts me on the inside, because it's not just a glittery mess, but it's poorly pigmented and gets everywhere and then some. It's actually worse than it was last year. Scandal is amazing, and it's a total bummer that the rest of the palette isn't as good as the lip color. I hope Urban Decay will add Scandal to its permanent line-up of Super Saturated pencils in the future.

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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LE
product

Scandal

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

Fetish

C+

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Monday, September 9th, 2013

Urban Decay Naked Illuminated Shimmering Powder
Urban Decay Naked Illuminated Shimmering Powder

Urban Decay Naked Illuminated Shimmering Powder ($29.00 for 0.20 oz.) is described as a “soft, glowing beige powder.” It’s a pale, champagne-beige with warm white sparkle and shimmer. The finish is rather frosted, somewhat metallic. Kevyn Aucoin has a much, much finer shimmer that translates to a more luminous glow. NARS Debbie Harry Highlighter is less sparkly. NARS Albatross is more golden. Chanel Poudre Signee de Chanel is slightly pinker. Chanel Lumiere Sculptee de Chanel is less shimmery. See comparison swatches.

It has a soft, silky texture that gives off quite a bit of shimmer/sparkle when you touch your brush to it, so I’d actually recommend using a light hand and a fluffy brush (maybe a fan or stippling brush). If you like more over-the-top highlighters or more metallic sheen, you’ll like this. If you prefer a very minimal glow or more of a soft sheen, this is probably going to be too much for you. Applied moderately, it definitely emphasized pores somewhat. If I applied just the teeniest, tiniest bit, it just barely emphasized the skin’s texture. There are also small, but visible, off-white sparkles. They’re fine enough that they really only present themselves as they catch the light, so they don’t look like dirt particles otherwise (sometimes more glittery products will look like dirt on the skin, if they aren’t reflecting light). The powder includes a small, domed-shaped flat brush, and I used that to apply the product in the swatches. It yielded light-medium coverage when I used it. It wears six and a half hours on me, which is not surprising given it is a baked product (and I generally get shorter wear with baked products across brands), and it can look faded/slightly patchy after eight hours. It is housed in a larger, square box with a “suede” finish (lightly velvety).

It’s online now at ULTA, and it is an ULTA exclusive, but it officially launches tomorrow, 9/10.

The Glossover

P
product

Naked

B-

If you like more over-the-top highlighters or more metallic sheen, you'll like this. If you prefer a very minimal glow or more of a soft sheen, this is probably going to be too much for you. Applied moderately, it definitely emphasized pores. If I applied just the teeniest, tiniest bit, it just barely emphasized the skin's texture.

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Monday, September 9th, 2013

YSL Violet Edition (01) Glossy Stain
YSL Violet Edition (01) Glossy Stain

YSL Violet Edition (01) Glossy Stain ($34.00 for 0.20 fl. oz.) is a deep, burgundy-berry with a glossy finish. MAC Lust for Life is lighter, pinker. Chanel Crushed Cherry is brighter, redder. MAC Rebel is more berry-hued. MAC Lasting Achievement is more muted, less red. See comparison swatches.

For the life of me, I could not get this to apply evenly; it just seemed to stick, settle, and gather in various places all over my lips. It’s not unusual that a deeper, vampier shade does some of that, but I was quite surprised the extent to which this did all those things. The color coverage is semi-opaque with a noticeable change and tint to the color, but the product has some translucency that enables the natural lip color to come through–just slightly. Obviously, given how wretched this looks on my lips, despite its long-wear of six and a half hours, it’s hard to recommend it. The glossiness lasts four to five hours, and then the color lingers and lingers well to six hours. There’s a residual stain that continues for another two hours or so. YSL’s Glossy Stains have a sweet, fruity scent but no discernible taste. I wouldn’t describe it as hydrating, but it’s not drying over the six hours it wears for.

The Glossover

P
product

Violet Edition (01)

B-

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

3/5

Results
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Sunday, September 8th, 2013

Bobbi Brown Rich Chocolate Eye Palette
Bobbi Brown Rich Chocolate Eye Palette

Bobbi Brown Rich Chocolate Eye Palette ($52.00 for 0.28 oz.) contains seven eyeshadows with five matte eyeshadows, one Shimmer Wash eyeshadow, and one Sparkle eyeshadow, plus a dual-ended brush all held in a glossy black palette. The matte eyeshadows are nicely pigmented and have a soft, smooth feel to them, though all of them were so soft that they had a tendency to also be somewhat powdery. The two shimmery shades were much less pigmented and had a drier, stiffer texture that made it difficult to pick up color–I really had to jab at the pan to get anything to loosen. Luckily, despite being somewhat powdery, the matte eyeshadows still wore well on the lid–they were not prone to fading as powdery eyeshadows sometimes can be. They lasted well for eight hours with very minor fading along the edges but no creasing. Unfortunately, when two of the seven eyeshadows are disappointing, it may make the whole palette a no-go. If you really love warm neutrals, though, you may still be tempted.

Bone is described as an “off white.” It’s a light beige with a matte finish. It had good color payoff, though the texture was incredibly soft and silky, it was powdery. I highly recommend applying in layers to minimize excess powder fall out. This shade is part of the permanent range. Urban Decay Broken is warmer, more shimmery. theBalm Adagio is similar. Urban Decay Kinky is similar, slightly cooler-toned. Urban Decay Walk of Shame is more beige. MAC Vanilla is slightly warmer. L’Oreal Endless Pearl is yellower. bareMinerals Chance is cooler-toned. Inglot #355 has a slight sheen. See comparison swatches.

Stone is described as a “medium ash brown.” It’s a medium, neutral-toned brown with a matte finish. It had fairly good pigmentation though the texture was slightly powdery but very soft. LORAC Taupe is similar. bareMinerals Get Ahead is cooler-toned. Urban Decay Faint is cooler-toned, darker. MAC Moleskin is lighter. Inglot #342 is slightlyd arker. See comparison swatches.

Frappe is described as a “medium ash beige.” It’s a light-medium brown with soft, yellow-peach undertones and a matte finish. It had decent to good color payoff, but the texture was powdery. MAC Layin’ Low is a cream product, warmer. Inglot #337 is darker, more red-toned. Edward Bess Cosmic Bliss #1 is lighter. MAC Arena is shimmery. See comparison swatches.

Caramel is described as a “silvery brown sparkle.” It’s a silver-sparkled, medium-dark brown with warm, yellow undertones. The color payoff was incredibly disappointing as the product was stiff and dry, so even to get something to show up, I really had to scrape the product out of the pan. The sparkle doesn’t bind with the underlying powder at all, so the end result is a very uneven amount of sparkles. Burberry Pale Nude #1 has no sparkle. Bobbi Brown Praline is more shimmery, less sparkly. See comparison swatches.

Champagne Truffle is described as a “warm pink beige.” It’s a light-medium copper with warm, orange undertones. This was in a previous palette, and it looked much darker and was much more pigmented, so I don’t know why this iteration is so poor in comparison. It was semi-sheer, and the texture was stiff and hard to work with. Disney All Aglow is similar. Disney Wanderin’ Free is lighter. Urban Decay Moonflower is darker. bareMinerals Golden Iris is more golden. See comparison swatches.

Cocoa is described as a “warm ashy brown.” This shade is part of the permanent range. Bobbi Brown Bittersweet is a cream product and slightly shimmery. LORAC Sable is lighter. MAC Swiss Chocolate is yellower. Make Up For Ever #162 is darker, redder in tone. See comparison swatches.

Rich Chocolate is described as a “dark brown.” It’s a deep, dark, burgundy brown with a matte finish. It had really intense color payoff, but like the other mattes, though the powder was soft to the touch, it was powdery. theBalm Matt Batali is cooler-toned. MAC Set to Dance is darker. MAC Graphology is darker, cooler-toned.
MAC Embark is less red-toned. Make Up For Ever #162 is browner. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

LE
palette

Rich Chocolate

B-
The matte eyeshadows are nicely pigmented and have a soft, smooth feel to them, though all of them were so soft that they had a tendency to also be somewhat powdery. The two shimmery shades were much less pigmented and had a drier, stiffer texture that made it difficult to pick up color--I really had to jab at the pan to get anything to loosen.

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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P
product

Bone

B+

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

Stone

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Sunday, September 1st, 2013

MAC Retro Matte Lipsticks
MAC Retro Matte Lipsticks

Here are the remaining three new shades from the MAC Retro Matte Collection, which will launch online the week of September 3rd and in-stores on September 12th (North America), and September 2013 for international locations.

Relentlessly Red is described as a “bright pinkish coral matte.”  It’s a brightened, medium-dark coral-red that almost looks cool-toned on me.  It had opaque color payoff, and the consistency was slightly dry with some drag when applied but with firm pressure, it will slide across lips well enough.  It lasted seven hours and left a stained behind.  It was somewhat drying.  MAC All Fired Up is definitely similar at a glance, and I think their undertones are slightly different, so it’s going to be a shade that may look more or less similar depending on your coloring and natural color of your lips.  All Fired Up is slightly pinker, less red/warm-toned but just barely. MAC Party Parrot is pinker. MAC Love Goddess is less matte. Guerlain Gigi is pinker, less matte. Guerlain Gourmandise is less red.  See comparison swatches.

Runway Hit is described as a “light nude matte.”  It’s a light-medium coral with a hint of pink, warm undertones, and a matte finish. It had mostly opaque color, and I always find the lighter shades to be less forgiving on lips–somehow they’re a little drier.  This shade wore well for four and a half hours and did not stain.  It was slightly drying when worn for me and faded unevenly.  MAC Flavour is slightly lighter. NARS Bolero is lighter. NARS Montego Bay is not quite as matte. See comparison swatches.

Steady Going is described as a “light pink matte.”  It’s a cool-toned, blue-based, cotton candy pink with a matte finish.  It had opaque color coverage, but like Runway Hit it felt drier and was less forgiving on the lips.  It wore for four and a half hours but was slightly drying during that time.  I noticed that both shades faded somewhat unevenly and left more color on the outer edge of the lip. MAC Raspberry Swirl is lighter, less matte. Maybelline Pink Pop is less matte. MAC Asian Flower is purpler, less matte. MAC Divine Choice is less blue-based, less matte.  MAC Pink Nouveau is less matte, cooler-toned. MAC Naughty Saute is less matte, slightly more blue-based. See comparison swatches.

Repeated from part one:

The MAC Retro Matte Collection brings back MAC’s Retro Matte with a vengeance, as it includes seven new shades in the finish. The collection will launch online the week of September 3rd and in-stores on September 12th (North America), and September 2013 for international locations. There is some uncertainty whether all shades are permanent or only some; the answer I received from MAC’s PR was some, which is what I’ve gone with, but the nearest counter/store are both saying all are permanent. Each lipstick retails for $15.00 and contains 0.10 oz.

If you love the Retro Matte formula, then enjoy and purchase these–I felt like these four were consistent with the formula in general, though creamier than a Retro Matte from five years ago (or older), and are similar to the consistencies of the Retro Matte finishes released with RiRi Loves MAC. The real downside to the Retro Matte formula (in my experience, of course) is that they are drying. I’ve worn nothing but these since getting them on the 29th, and if it weren’t for catching up on hydration while I was sleeping (thank you, Jack Black!), it would be difficult to keep wearing this formula back-to-back. They have great pigmentation and wear exceptionally long, but for me, I would rather wear a more hydrating formula, or if I was aiming for matte, a formula that isn’t drying (Burberry Lip Velvets come to mind).

The always lovely xSparkage has a fantastic tutorial on making your lip color last that uses loose powder (and lip pencil) to really set and lock down the lip color, which also makes it appear matte, that can pretty much turn most of your favorite lipsticks into a long-wearing, mostly matte version. This is the same thing I do when I need all-day color and want to touch up very, very minimally (like at a conference).

The Glossover

P
product

Relentlessly Red

A-

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
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LE
product

Runway Hit

B-

Product

7.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

Steady Going

B

Product

7.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Saturday, August 31st, 2013

MAC Retro Matte Lipsticks
MAC Retro Matte Lipsticks

The MAC Retro Matte Collection brings back MAC’s Retro Matte with a vengeance, as it includes seven new shades in the finish. The collection will launch online the week of September 3rd and in-stores on September 12th (North America), and September 2013 for international locations. There is some uncertainty whether all shades are permanent or only some; the answer I received from MAC’s PR was some, which is what I’ve gone with, but the nearest counter/store are both saying all are permanent.  Each lipstick retails for $15.00 and contains 0.10 oz.

If you love the Retro Matte formula, then enjoy and purchase these–I felt like these four were consistent with the formula in general, though creamier than a Retro Matte from five years ago (or older), and are similar to the consistencies of the Retro Matte finishes released with RiRi Loves MAC.  The real downside to the Retro Matte formula (in my experience, of course) is that they are drying.  I’ve worn nothing but these since getting them on the 29th, and if it weren’t for catching up on hydration while I was sleeping (thank you, Jack Black!), it would be difficult to keep wearing this formula back-to-back.  They have great pigmentation and wear exceptionally long, but for me, I would rather wear a more hydrating formula, or if I was aiming for matte, a formula that isn’t drying (Burberry Lip Velvets come to mind).

The always lovely xSparkage has a fantastic tutorial on making your lip color last that uses loose powder (and lip pencil) to really set and lock down the lip color, which also makes it appear matte, that can pretty much turn most of your favorite lipsticks into a long-wearing, mostly matte version. This is the same thing I do when I need all-day color and want to touch up very, very minimally (like at a conference).

All Fired Up is described as a “bright fuchsia matte.” It’s a brightened, reddish-fuchsia–the kind of fuchsia that almost looks warm, because it doesn’t have strong blue undertones to it. It has a fully matte finish. The texture is fairly dry but doesn’t tug too much on lips. It had opaque color payoff and wore well for seven hours and left a stain behind. I found it somewhat drying on lips, and I would highly recommend exfoliating and hydrating lips prior to application and potentially dabbing on a little bit of clear lip balm throughout the day to keep lips from drying out. Urban Decay Catfight is redder, luminous. Chanel Suspense is lighter, less matte. Revlon Sorbet is cooler-toned, sheerer, less matte. Guerlain Girly is more fuchsia. Guerlain Gigi is less matte. Guerlain Gourmandise is similar–especially as it sets. See comparison swatches.

Dangerous is described as a “orangey red matte.” It’s a medium-dark, orange with strong red undertones and a flat, matte finish. It had opaque color playoff, was just barely creamy enough to apply without tugging or dragging, but you will need firmer pressure. It doesn’t just glide across lips like it’s on ice skates. It lasted six hours and had a slight stain afterward. When I wore it, the formula was slightly drying. Maybelline Orange Edge and Maybelline Vibrant Mandarin are close in color but have a glossier finish. MAC Scarlet Ibis is similar–slightly brighter. MAC Sail La Vie is also similar in color but less matte. MAC Lady Danger is brighter, less red. Buxom Rogue is glossier, less red, brighter. OCC Psycho has more brown tones to it. See comparison swatches.

Fixed on Drama is described as a “rich wine matte.” It’s a dark, burgundy red with neutral undertones (reads almost warm on me, as it has a slight brown tone) and a matte finish. This seemed to have less of a flat matte finish compared to other shades, and it was drier and stiffer to work with, which resulted in less opaque color coverage, too. This would be best applied with a lip brush and then layered for best color payoff. It wore for six and a half hours and left a stain behind, but I noticed it faded unevenly. Like the other shades, this was somewhat drying. Urban Decay Shame is warmer, glossier. MAC Endless Drama is similar–a touch darker, maybe, and less matte. MAC What Joy is more berry-hued. Guerlain Gigolo is brighter, less brown, glossy. See comparison swatches.

Flat Out Fabulous is described as a “bright plum matte.” It’s a cool-toned, fuchsia-plum with a flat, matte finish. It had mostly opaque color payoff, and the consistency is slightly dry and does tug somewhat on lips. It does warm up as you try to apply it from the tube, so there is that, but your best bet would be applying with a lip brush to avoid dragging the product across the lips. This was the fourth I’d tested, and my lips were progressively getting drier and drier, so I’d also have to call this one drying. It lasted well for six and a half hours and then started to fade but did leave behind a stain. Urban Decay Anarchy is brighter, luminous. Maybelline Electric Fuchsia is brighter, lighter, less matte. Maybelline Hot Plum is slightly more plum and less matte. MAC Night Blooming is purpler, less matte. MAC Quick Sizzle is just slightly pinker. MAC Pink Pigeon is brighter, pinker. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

P
product

All Fired Up

B+

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4/5

Results
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P
product

Dangerous

A

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

Fixed on Drama

B-

Product

7.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4/5

Results
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