Thursday, August 22nd, 2013

Guerlain Parure de Lumiere Foundation
Guerlain Parure de Lumiere Foundation

Guerlain Parure de Lumiere Foundation ($59.00 for 1.0 fl. oz.) is supposed to be moisturizing, light-diffusing, and have medium coverage with a “sheer satin” finish. It’s available in a mere eight shades (which continues to be Guerlain’s biggest weakness with their foundations–a lack of shade range). It is recommended for normal, dry, and combination skin types (note, oily was not listed).

I’m usually between 02 Beige Clair and 03 Beige Naturel in Guerlain’s foundations, and it was no different with Parure de Lumiere. I used one pump of each shade for light-medium coverage all-over. To get more medium coverage, I used one and a half pumps of each shade. 02 Beige Clair is mostly neutral with beige undertones, whereas 03 Beige Naturel has moderately strong yellow undertones. When 02 Beige Clair is blended out on my skin, it actually looks almost pink-toned. I really wish the shade range was larger, but I don’t expect so (their newest foundation just popped up on Nordstrom with only six shades!).

Parure de Lumiere is a lightweight, long-wearing, skin-smoothing foundation that makes skin appear natural, radiant, and luminous without looking oily or greasy. The coverage is buildable from sheer to medium, though it lends itself naturally to a light-medium to medium application. For sheer coverage, I spritz my brush with a little water, and then I work the foundation across the skin; this enables me to get the sheerest coverage all-over and then build up coverage in the areas I need it most. I’ve been using this foundation on and off since November 2012, so I’ve had ample opportunity to use it under various skin conditions, seasons (though “seasons” in California are obviously less meaningful), and with many tools. I like applying it with fingertips quite a bit, and sponges work well, too. I really liked using Tom Ford Cream Foundation Brush with this, as well as Hourglass #2 Foundation Brush. There hasn’t been a brush I’ve used with this that hasn’t done an admirable job of applying it, really; it’s not a tricky product to apply at all.

The consistency isn’t too thick or too thin, and it spreads well across the skin and looks very natural when it dries down. It’s not so dewy that it looks oily or wet, but it is definitely a more luminous finish, which is why I can see it not being recommended for oilier skin types. It is also somewhat hydrating, but it certainly wouldn’t replace your full-time moisturizer; it is one of the more forgiving foundations on dry patches and flakiness–especially after a half hour or so, as it absorbs into the skin. It lasts eight and a half hours well on my skin, but if I set with powder, I get closer to ten hours of wear.  The only downside (which isn’t that bad) is that it takes a little longer to dry down on its own if you don’t apply powder.

Ingredients

Active Ingredient: Titanium Dioxide 2.37%, Octinoxate (Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) 5.49%

Aqua (water), isododecane, glycerin, hydrogenated polyisobutene, methyl trimethicone, pentylene glycol, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, disteardimonium hectorite, butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, maris aqua (sea water), phenoxyethanol, chondrus crispus (carrageenan), polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, silica, dimethicone, calcium sodium borosilicate, PEG-10 dimethicone, stearic acid, sodium myristoyl glutamate, parfum (fragrance), alumina, silica silylate, propylene carbonate, aluminum hydroxide, butylphenyl methylpropional, linalool, citronellol, BYHT, alpha-isomethyl ionone, benzyl benzoate, geraniol, tropaeolum majus extract, tocopherol, limonene, citral, ethylhexylglycerin, [may contain: ci 77891 (titanium dioxide), ci 77492, ci 77491, ci 77499(iron oxides)]

The Glossover

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Parure de Lumiere

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Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

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Wednesday, August 21st, 2013

Giorgio Armani Maestro Foundation
Giorgio Armani Maestro Foundation

Giorgio Armani Maestro Foundation ($62.00 for 1.0 fl. oz.) is supposed to be a lightweight foundation with buildable coverage and a natural finish. Giorgio Armani Beauty really pushes that it is about getting the least amount of product with the most amount of bang; it’s supposed to “[look] invisible and [make] skin appear luminous.” It’s available in twelve shades. The brand says #2, 3, and 4 are best for fair skin tones; #4.5, 5, 5.5, 6.5, 7, and 8 for medium complexions; and #10, 11.5, and 12 for darker skin tones.

I’ve used up an entire bottle of #5.5, having first used it around late November/early December, and recently finished it about a week ago. It usually takes me quite awhile to really determine if I love or just like a foundation. #5.5 is slightly light on me (but forgiving enough to be worn), while #7 is definitely too dark.  There are some I fall in love with right away; others I never want to wear again, but usually I fall in the middle and waffle. Maestro had a unique texture (to me), because it almost felt like a silicone primer and foundation in one; it has that velvety-smooth, mostly matte finish and feel once applied to the skin. The actual texture is thin and very liquid, so it is easy to apply a very sheer layer of coverage or build up without getting too much coverage (if undesired). It feels a bit like a dry oil, so synthetic brushes, sponges, and fingertips tended to be best for application in my experience. It is lightly scented with something, but I couldn’t put my finger on it; I did not notice the scent when applied or as I wore it, but it’s not scent-free in the bottle.

The brand recommends applying three drops in the palm of your hand, though I’m not certain what constitutes a drop, because you can fill the entire stem with product and really get all of it out, or you can do small squeezes and get small drops out. Three drops is half of what I need, and a whole stem-full is more than enough–so don’t be afraid if you’re bewildered and find yourself needing more than three drops! I’m not keen on the droplet applicator. I’d rather a pump or an open bottle, as the cap with the stem attached to it wobbles around if you just want to get some directly out of the bottle, so you can get bits of foundation on the surface it’s lying on. Dropping it directly on the face was also a 50/50 proposition where it would dribble down my face and land on my shirt. So, most of the time, I filled the stem and then squeezed it on the back of my hand. I would have much preferred a pump, though. I haven’t traveled with mine at all, but I have heard some people have had issues with the packaging surviving travel.

The coverage is light to light-medium, with almost medium coverage possible with layering, but overall, light to light-medium coverage, and it had a semi-matte finish. It wasn’t a totally flat, dull matte finish, but it was still quite matte. Between the finish and texture, I felt this was most appropriate for normal to oily skin. On drier skin, especially if you have any visible signs dryness, it can accentuate dry patches or flakiness. I only experienced this when my skin was at its driest and did not find it a problem for most of the time I wore it. The other thing to note is that when I did have some visible dry patches, while initially accentuated, after twenty to thirty minutes, they were less noticeable than they were initially, so there appeared to be some hydration coming from the formula itself. It has alcohol denat. as the fourth ingredient, which is drying in high concentrations (it is often used as an antiseptic and a solvent), but in my experience, appeared to be offset by the other ingredients as my skin did not get drier, so your mileage may vary and consider your skin and what it is/isn’t affected by (note: I am not a chemist, esthetician, or scientist!).

It’s a comfortable, long-wearing foundation, too, and you don’t always get supreme comfort with a longer-wearing product (which are often tight-feeling). With Maestro, it typically lasts me between eight and ten hours, without a primer or setting powder. With setting or finishing powder, the wear is usually more consistent and closer to ten hours with no patchiness or visible fading. Maestro photographs very well for me, and it performed well at evening out the complexion, hiding mild to moderate post-acne marks or scars, and refraining from settling into fine lines.  I would not recommend using this as your sole source of SPF; you’re not going to get the protection needed based on amount applied.

Ingredients

Active Ingredient: Octinoxate 3%

Cyclohexasiloxane, dimethicone, isododecane, alcohol denat, vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, phenyl trimethicone, acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer, peg-10 dimethicone, disteardimonium hectorite, fragrance, nelumbium speciosum flower extract, limonene, benzyl salicylate, synthetic fluorphlogopite, linalool, benzyl alcohol, propylene carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, disodium stearoyl glutamate, water, citrus aurantium amara (bitter orange) flower oil, butylphenyl methylpropional, aluminium hydroxide, hexyl cinnamal; may contain: iron oxides, titanium dioxide

The Glossover

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Maestro Foundation

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For normal to oily skin types, this could be a nice foundation, as it has a natural matte finish (not too flat, but not too luminous) with light-medium coverage that wears well. For drier skin types, it can emphasize dry patches or flaking.

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4.5/5

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Monday, August 19th, 2013

OCC Anita Lip Tar
OCC Anita Lip Tar

OCC Anita Lip Tar ($18.00 for 0.33 fl. oz.) is described as a “browned burgundy.” It’s a deep, dark brown with reddish-burgundy undertones; it seems more brown than burgundy to me, but it is certainly a mix of the two. It’s incredibly pigmented, and as is par for the formula, a little goes a very, very long way. It seemed slightly thinner than other Lip Tars, so it was more unforgiving during application.   This shade lasted eight hours on me and continued to linger on as a stain for another two. OCC Black Metal Dahlia is lighter, more cool-toned, less brown. Urban Decay Shame is brighter, redder. MAC Soulfully Rich and MAC Prince Noir are cooler-toned. MAC Chestnut is browner, less red. OCC Black Dahlia is cooler-toned, less brown. See comparison swatches.

Sebastian Lip Tar ($18.00 for 0.33 fl. oz.) is described as a “plum-toned taupe.” It’s exactly that: a mix of gray and beige with a hint of plum. It had opaque color coverage, and again, a little went a long way. It’s certainly an interesting and more unique color (I couldn’t think of any dupes for it, though that doesn’t mean there isn’t something else like it out there–feel free to chime in with a dupe if you have one!). Sebastian wore well for seven hours but didn’t leave behind a stain (which wasn’t surprising, as it is lighter hue).

Both shades will launch at Sephora on August 27th.

P.S. — Please keep an open mind. Just because you don’t like the color(s) or don’t see the point in them, doesn’t mean someone else doesn’t. One person’s everyday color is another person’s once in a blue moon shade–and vice versa. Please be respectful when sharing your opinion. Not liking it on you is one thing, telling others they’re ugly if they wear it is quite different.

The Glossover

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Anita

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Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4.5/5

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Sebastian

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Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

5/5

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Sunday, August 18th, 2013

Benefit Rockateur Box o' Powder
Benefit Rockateur Box o’ Powder

Benefit Rockateur Box o’ Powder ($28.00 for 0.17 oz.) is described as a “rose gold.” Rose gold is a fairly apt way to describe it; it’s a mix of pink, beige, and brown with slight warm undertones and a satiny shimmer. It is darker than rose gold to me; and of course, the low shimmer makes it less shiny and metallic. There is a very sparkly overlay that can be brushed away after one use (or, if you prefer, brushed away before using). MAC Taste Your Senses is a cream product, less shimmery. Edward Bess Secret Affair is lighter, pinker. Tom Ford Love Lust is more shimmery, pinker. Urban Decay Naked Flushed is more matte, pinker. MAC Stereo Rose is slightly lighter, more shimmery. MAC Light Year is lighter, more shimmery. See comparison swatches.

The texture is softer than any Box o’ Powder I’ve tried, and frankly, the texture feels quite different than the other shades, too. It is sumptuously soft and velvety, and it almost feels like an incredibly finely-milled baked product.  It has a baked feel, but it’s more finely-milled and smoother than traditional baked products. It’s rather like Laura Mercier’s Illuminators and Estee Lauder’s Gelees.  The color payoff was true-to-pan and buildable, so it could be applied at full intensity or applied with a lighter hand for something softer.  It has a very subtle satin finish that becomes more and more glow-inducing as it gets blended and buffed into the skin.  When I wore it, Rockateur lasted well for eight hours and started looking faded after nine hours of wear.  I didn’t notice it emphasizing pores or skin imperfections.

Just a heads up: this contains significantly less product than other Box o’ Powders (which are 0.25 or 0.28 oz. usually) at 0.17 oz., though the price is the same.

The Glossover

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Rockateur

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Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

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Saturday, August 17th, 2013

MAC Indulge Lipsticks
MAC Indulge Lipsticks

MAC’s Indulge Collection (online at MAC now, online elsewhere and in-stores on August 22nd for North America locations) features five lipstick shades in various colors and finishes. The only shade I’ve haven’t worn to test is Just a Bite, as it is very much your standard red lipstick from MAC (which isn’t a bad thing), so I expect it to wear well and long, but will test it in full tomorrow.

By Design Lipstick ($15.00 for 0.10 oz.) is described as a “soft shimmering beige [with a Frost finish].” It’s a warm peach with a frosted, m etallic finish. It had semi-opaque color coverage and lasted three hours on me–it was a little drying, too. MAC Posh Tone, MAC Delectable, and MAC Freckletone are all similar in color but lack the metallic finish. See comparison swatches.

Feed the Senses Lipstick ($15.00 for 0.10 oz.) is described as a “mid-tone mauvey nude [with a Lustre finish].” It’s a soft, neutral pink with a subtle mauve tint. It had semi-opaque color coverage, and it lasted for two and a half hours on me. Urban Decay Native is warmer. MAC Haute Altitude is similar–more opaque, a touch darker. Dior Candide is cooler-toned. Chanel Confidentielle is shimmery. See comparison swatches.

Just a Bite Lipstick ($15.00 for 0.10 oz.) is described as a “mid-tone blue red [with a Satin finish].” It’s a medium-dark, cool-toned red with blue undertones and a natural sheen. It had mostly opaque color coverage, and I expect it would wear between five and six hours with some staining. MAC has released reds like this before. NARS Mascate is more matte. MAC Such Flare is more matte. MAC Runaway Red is slightly lighter. Guerlain Liu is pinker. MAC Absolute Power is also similar. See comparison swatches.

Smash Hit Lipstick ($15.00 for 0.10 oz.) is described as a “sheer golden sparkle [with a Dazzle finish].” It’s a mix of pale gold, copper, and pink micro-glitter and large sparkle. It doesn’t deposit much color, mostly sparkle. It does have a noticeably gritty texture from the glitters. It wears for about two hours or less, but the glitter travels a lot. This shade is a repromote. MAC Ruffian Gold is less sparkly. Guerlain Altoum is more golden. See comparison swatches.

Sweet Succulence Lipstick ($15.00 for 0.10 oz.) is described as a “deep glossy plum [with a Lustre finish].” It’s a purplish berry with cool undertones. It was semi-sheer, and it had a tendency to settle into lip lines and took some blending to apply evenly. It lasted three hours on me. NARS Valparaiso is brighter, more opaque, matte. NARS Afghan Red is more matte. MAC Red Dwarf is slightly pinker. MAC Positively Dashing is lighter. MAC Deliciously Forbidden is much pinker. MAC Plum Bright is purpler. Guerlain Bee is more berry-colored.
See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

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By Design

B-

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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LE
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Feed the Senses

B-

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

6/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Just a Bite

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Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Saturday, August 17th, 2013

MAC Beluga Eyeshadow
MAC Beluga Eyeshadow

MAC’s Indulge Collection (online now, in-stores on August 22nd for North America locations) features eight eyeshadows. Beluga was the hardest to apply and use, as it was stiff and harder to blend around the edges, while Gilty Morsel has sparkle that doesn’t really bind with the base color, so there is fall out during application, and even though I’ve only been wearing the eyeshadows for around five hours (so far), there is noticeable (currently minor, though) fall out from it. I’ll update this post with actual wear times after I’ve finished wearing them later today, so the longevity ratings are based on my average experience with MAC’s eyeshadows (with wear in relation to finish, color, and quality). I’m four hours in, so far so good. :)

MAC Beluga Eyeshadow ($15.00 for 0.05 oz.) is described as a “dark charcoal with multi-dimensional pearl [with a Veluxe finish].” It’s a cool-toned, dark brown with flecks of green sparkle. It had so-so color payoff, but the texture was noticeably dry and more difficult to blend out on the skin as it was stiff. Disney Cinders is warmer. MAC Mystery is lighter, more matte. MAC Black Magique is more matte. See comparison swatches.

Divine Decadence Eyeshadow ($15.00 for 0.05 oz.) is described as a “soft bronze [with a Veluxe finish].” It’s a rich, copper-shimmered bronze with warm, red and copper undertones and a frosted finish. This was, by far, the very best of the collection: intensely pigmented with a creamy, buttery texture that felt like silk. MAC Copper Strip is less frosted. NARS Isolde #2 is slightly more copper-hued. MAC Antiqued is similar. See comparison swatches.

Gilty Morsel Eyeshadow ($15.00 for 0.05 oz.) is described as a “glittery light gold [with a Lustre finish].” It’s a pale, light-medium gold with yellow undertones and flecks of pale gold sparkle. It performs a lot like most Lustre finishes, which means it has a slightly dry, gritty texture and sheerer color payoff so it looks more like a wash of color than anything else. Chanel Convoitise is a cream product. MAC Greenluxe #2 is more metallic. Disney Sand in the Glass is less sparkly. Giorgio Armani #18 is yellower. Chanel Pearl River #2 is less sparkly. Buxom Poodle is a cream. See comparison swatches.

Palace Pedigreed Eyeshadow ($15.00 for 0.05 oz.) is described as a “dark plum [with a Satin finish].” It’s a deep plum with strong red undertones and a barley-there satin sheen. Though the texture was a little dry and thin, it still yielded a good amount of color. I didn’t have any trouble getting the color to show up, and it was buildable to fully opaque color coverage. The texture makes it slightly harder to blend, but it is much, much improved from the last time I tried it. Chanel Delicatesse #4 is warmer. MAC Double Feature #1 #2 is similar, purpler. MAC Plum Dressing is brighter. Guerlain Boulevard du Montparnasse is purpler. Le Metier de Beaute Fig is warmer, browner. Make Up For Ever #160 is very similar–slightly darker. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

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Beluga

B-

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Divine Decadence

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Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Gilty Morsel

C+

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

4/5

Results
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