Monday, September 9th, 2013

Urban Decay Black Market 24-7 Glide-On Pencil Set
Urban Decay Black Market 24-7 Glide-On Eye Pencil Set

Urban Decay Black Market 24-7 Glide-On Eye Pencil Set ($36.00 for 6 x 0.03 oz.) includes six eyeliners, five of them new and exclusive shades, with one that’s part of the permanent range. The pencils are 25% smaller than full-sized (0.03 oz. vs. 0.04 oz.), so the total value of the set is $85.50. This set is an easy way to try out Urban Decay’s eyeliner formula, if you haven’t previously, as for the price of less than two full-sized eyeliners, you can get six. And for many of us, we have far more eyeliners than eyes, so getting more colors in a slightly smaller size is really not an issue. 😉 Now, the only bummer is if you fall in love with one of the new shades, you won’t find it in the permanent range. (But Urban Decay does add previously exclusive shades into their permanent range from time to time, so maybe you’ll get lucky.) It’s available now at ULTA, but it officially launches tomorrow and is part of Urban Decay’s holiday collection!

Overall, the set includes six shades that all wore well on me (between eight and nine hours of good wear, then less stellar wear–such as thinner/faded but no issues with the eyeliners migrating or smudging). Some of the shades lacked really rich, intense pigmentation in one layer, so you will need to build the color up when applying, as most are quite buildable in two to three passes across the lash line.

West is described as “dark brown pearl.” It’s a medium-dark brown with a golden satin sheen and warm, slightly yellow-y undertones. It had nice color payoff in a single pass, and the color was fully opaque in one and a half passes across the lash line. It wore well for just over eight hours, and I saw some slight fading of the color after nine and a half hours. This shade is new and exclusive. Kat Von D Immortal Love is much darker. Urban Decay Whiskey is matte and more red-toned. Urban Decay Hustle is lighter, warmer. MAC Photogravure is darker. MAC Lord It Up is more sparkly. See comparison swatches.

Desperation is described as “deep taupe-gray matte.” It’s a medium-dark, gray-leaning taupe with soft brown undertones and a matte finish. This is part of the permanent range. It has decent color payoff in one pass, and it is buildable to more opaque color on the lash line. It lasted well for a full eight hours, and then it started to show signs of fading after nine hours–just a thinning of the color but no smudging or migrating. Laura Mercier Slate seems warmer. Urban Decay Stray Dog is lighter, shimmery. bareMinerals 11PM is darker. See comparison swatches.

Black Market is described as “charcoal black satin.” It’s a deep, gray-ish black with very, very subtle green/teal pearl. It had decent pigmentation in a single stroke and was buildable to opaque color on the lash line. It lasted eight hours well, and then after nine hours, I saw some thinning of the eyeliner. This shade is new and exclusive. MAC Black Swan is more glittery. bareMinerals Midnight is warmer. bareMinerals 11PM is lighter. See comparison swatches.

Riot is described as “smoky gray matte with violet and fuchsia micro-sparkle.” It’s a dark purple with subtle warm undertones and flecks of violet, purple, silver shimmer. It had sheerer color payoff when I applied a single layer, but it was buildable to mostly opaque color coverage. It lasted eight hours well on my lash line, but it was noticeably thinner after nine hours of wear. This shade is new and exclusive. Urban Decay Empire is similar–slightly brighter. Urban Decay Delinquent is warmer, darker. MAC Permaplum is less shimmery. See comparison swatches.

Apathy is described as “metallic olive green shimmer.” It’s a dark, forest green with olive and subtle brown undertones–while it is olive in tone, it is almost cool-toned because of the emerald green shimmer. It had weak color payoff in a single stroke, but it was more buildable with a few layers; on the lash line, it took three to four passes for mostly opaque color. It wore well for almost nine hours with some light fading (but no smudging/migrating) after ten hours. This shade is new and exclusive. MAC Devotion is similar, slightly darker. NARS Rue de Rivoli is lighter. Urban Decay Mildew is slightly warmer. See comparison swatches.

Ink is described as “deep navy blue satin.” It’s a rich, navy blue with cool undertones and a subtle, pearly sheen. It had great color payoff in one pass, and it was buildable as well (if you desired). It wore well for eight and a half hours, and it started to thin after nine and a half hours. This shade is new and exclusive. Urban Decay Sabbath is less shimmery, darker. NARS Rue Saint-Honore is brighter. MAC Blue Stripe is more muted. MAC Petrol Blue is more sparkly. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

product

Black Market

A-

Overall, the set includes six shades that all wore well on me (between eight and nine hours of good wear, then less stellar wear--such as thinner/faded but no issues with the eyeliners migrating or smudging). Some of the shades lacked really rich, intense pigmentation in one layer, so you will need to build the color up when applying, as most are quite buildable in two to three passes across the lash line.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
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LE
product

West

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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product

Desperation

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Monday, September 9th, 2013

Bobbi Brown Bittersweet Long-Wear Cream Shadow Stick
Bobbi Brown Bittersweet Long-Wear Cream Shadow Stick

Bobbi Brown Bittersweet Long-Wear Cream Shadow Stick ($28.00 for 0.05 oz.) is a dark brown with a satin finish and strong warm, orange undertones. Tom Ford Illicit is redder-toned and shimmery. MAC Life’s Luxury is darker, less warm-toned. MAC Eclair is lighter, more coppery. Chanel Ebloui is less orange. Make Up For Ever #14 is shimmery. See comparison swatches.

The consistency of the pencil is creamy without being too thick or slick, so it glides on evenly and smoothly depositing rich color even in a single pass. It covers the lid well, but it sets quickly, so you’ll want to work equally quickly and better to do one eye at a time. Once it sets, it stays in place well for a full eight hours; after nine hours, I get very minor creasing towards my inner lid (where I have the most creases). Bobbi Brown only markets these with eight-hour wear (reasonable, one thing I appreciate!), but if you need them to go longer, you may want to layer your favorite primer underneath, which definitely helps extend the wear for me by an additional two to three hours.

The Glossover

LE
product

Bittersweet

A
The consistency of the pencil is creamy without being too thick or slick, so it glides on evenly and smoothly depositing rich color even in a single pass. It covers the lid well, but it sets quickly, so you'll want to work equally quickly and better to do one eye at a time. Once it sets, it stays in place well for a full eight hours.

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Sunday, September 8th, 2013

Bobbi Brown Baby Pink Lip Color
Bobbi Brown Baby Pink Lip Color

Bobbi Brown Baby Pink Lip Color ($25.00 for 0.12 oz.) is a light-medium, pink beige with subtle warm undertones and a soft, pearly finish–not a satin but not a full-on frost. It had mostly opaque color coverage with a lightly creamy consistency that glided across lips without pulling or tugging. This shade lasted well for four hours. Flower Beauty Petal Kiss is pinker, more matte. Giorgio Armani Blush is pinker, less shimmery. Guerlain Mitsouko is sheerer. Chanel Gardenia is slightly pinker. Make Up For Ever #4 is darker, pinker, matte. See comparison swatches.

Bobbi Brown Berry Lip Color ($25.00 for 0.12 oz.) is a raspberry pink with cool undertones and a luminous finish. It had very nearly opaque color but was just the slightest bit translucent–it kept it from looking too heavy on the lip. The color applied evenly and smoothly without dragging across the lip as the consistency was nicely creamy. It lasted six hours well without drying my lips out. Chanel Esprit is redder. Urban Decay Catfight is brighter. Chanel Suspense is similar. Chanel Fiction is slightly redder. Revlon Sorbet is a touch pinker. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

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product

Baby Pink

A-
It had mostly opaque color coverage with a lightly creamy consistency that glided across lips without pulling or tugging. This shade lasted well for four hours.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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LE
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Berry

A
It had very nearly opaque color but was just the slightest bit translucent--it kept it from looking too heavy on the lip. The color applied evenly and smoothly without dragging across the lip as the consistency was nicely creamy. It lasted six hours well without drying my lips out.

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Wednesday, September 4th, 2013

Too Faced In the Buff La Creme Lipstick
Too Faced In the Buff La Creme Lipstick

Too Faced In the Buff La Creme Lipstick ($21.00 for 0.11 oz.) is described as a “warm beige.” It’s a light-medium peach with brown/beige tones and a luminous finish. It had mostly opaque color coverage with a very creamy, glide-on consistency. Because the color is lighter and though the texture feels lightweight, the lipstick itself is thicker, so it can bunch up on itself and create “lines” if you press your lips together. Thankfully, it was not something that was noticeable from afar. In the Buff wore for four hours, was lightly hyrating when worn, and faded evenly. Urban Decay Naked 2 is lighter, more beige. Edward Bess Forbidden Flower is slightly lighter. NARS Isola Bella is more orange. MAC Posh Tone is similar. MAC Cozy Up is a touch lighter, more beige. See comparison swatches.

Naughty Nude La Creme Lipstick ($21.00 for 0.11 oz.) is described as a “chestnut.” It’s a light-medium, peach with beige undertones and a luminous finish. It had nearly full color coverage (there’s a bit of my lip freckle peeking through still). The consistency was creamy and easy-to-apply, though due to the lightness of the shade and the slight thickness of the formula, if you press your lips together, it can create lines or cause the product to push onto itself. Naughty Nude lasted four hours on me and was lightly hydrating during that time. It was actually really fitting that I ended up reviewing these two together, because they are very, very similar. In the Buff is the slightest bit warmer/more orange, but I was surprised to see them be nearly the same. To that end, this shade has the same similar shades. Urban Decay Naked 2 is more beige. Edward Bess Forbidden Flower is similar. NARS Isola Bella is more orange. MAC Posh Tone is darker. MAC Cozy Up is a touch lighter, more beige. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

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product

In the Buff

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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product

Naughty Nude

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

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Wednesday, September 4th, 2013

theBalm Toile Instain Long-Wearing Staining Powder Blush
theBalm Toile Instain Long-Wearing Staining Powder Blush

theBalm Toile Instain Long-Wearing Staining Powder Blush ($22.00 for 0.20 oz.) is described as a “strawberry.” It’s a bright, bold coral-pink with a barely-there satin sheen. MAC Simmer is similar. NARS Amour is slightly more muted, less warm-toned. See comparison swatches.

It’s incredibly pigmented with true-to-pan color, but the coverage is more buildable than over-the-top. I would still recommend using a lighter hand when initially applying so that you can adjust the intensity more readily. The texture is soft, finely-milled, and it wasn’t powdery. As I applied Toile to the skin, it blended out easily initially, but it tends to stick in place once it is sheered out slightly. The blush wore nine and a half hours on me without fading, so it lived up to its long-wearing claim. I wouldn’t describe this so much as a product that stains, as it easily removes with regular makeup remover with no extra elbow grease required.

The Glossover

P
product

Toile

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Saturday, August 31st, 2013

MAC Retro Matte Lipsticks
MAC Retro Matte Lipsticks

The MAC Retro Matte Collection brings back MAC’s Retro Matte with a vengeance, as it includes seven new shades in the finish. The collection will launch online the week of September 3rd and in-stores on September 12th (North America), and September 2013 for international locations. There is some uncertainty whether all shades are permanent or only some; the answer I received from MAC’s PR was some, which is what I’ve gone with, but the nearest counter/store are both saying all are permanent.  Each lipstick retails for $15.00 and contains 0.10 oz.

If you love the Retro Matte formula, then enjoy and purchase these–I felt like these four were consistent with the formula in general, though creamier than a Retro Matte from five years ago (or older), and are similar to the consistencies of the Retro Matte finishes released with RiRi Loves MAC.  The real downside to the Retro Matte formula (in my experience, of course) is that they are drying.  I’ve worn nothing but these since getting them on the 29th, and if it weren’t for catching up on hydration while I was sleeping (thank you, Jack Black!), it would be difficult to keep wearing this formula back-to-back.  They have great pigmentation and wear exceptionally long, but for me, I would rather wear a more hydrating formula, or if I was aiming for matte, a formula that isn’t drying (Burberry Lip Velvets come to mind).

The always lovely xSparkage has a fantastic tutorial on making your lip color last that uses loose powder (and lip pencil) to really set and lock down the lip color, which also makes it appear matte, that can pretty much turn most of your favorite lipsticks into a long-wearing, mostly matte version. This is the same thing I do when I need all-day color and want to touch up very, very minimally (like at a conference).

All Fired Up is described as a “bright fuchsia matte.” It’s a brightened, reddish-fuchsia–the kind of fuchsia that almost looks warm, because it doesn’t have strong blue undertones to it. It has a fully matte finish. The texture is fairly dry but doesn’t tug too much on lips. It had opaque color payoff and wore well for seven hours and left a stain behind. I found it somewhat drying on lips, and I would highly recommend exfoliating and hydrating lips prior to application and potentially dabbing on a little bit of clear lip balm throughout the day to keep lips from drying out. Urban Decay Catfight is redder, luminous. Chanel Suspense is lighter, less matte. Revlon Sorbet is cooler-toned, sheerer, less matte. Guerlain Girly is more fuchsia. Guerlain Gigi is less matte. Guerlain Gourmandise is similar–especially as it sets. See comparison swatches.

Dangerous is described as a “orangey red matte.” It’s a medium-dark, orange with strong red undertones and a flat, matte finish. It had opaque color playoff, was just barely creamy enough to apply without tugging or dragging, but you will need firmer pressure. It doesn’t just glide across lips like it’s on ice skates. It lasted six hours and had a slight stain afterward. When I wore it, the formula was slightly drying. Maybelline Orange Edge and Maybelline Vibrant Mandarin are close in color but have a glossier finish. MAC Scarlet Ibis is similar–slightly brighter. MAC Sail La Vie is also similar in color but less matte. MAC Lady Danger is brighter, less red. Buxom Rogue is glossier, less red, brighter. OCC Psycho has more brown tones to it. See comparison swatches.

Fixed on Drama is described as a “rich wine matte.” It’s a dark, burgundy red with neutral undertones (reads almost warm on me, as it has a slight brown tone) and a matte finish. This seemed to have less of a flat matte finish compared to other shades, and it was drier and stiffer to work with, which resulted in less opaque color coverage, too. This would be best applied with a lip brush and then layered for best color payoff. It wore for six and a half hours and left a stain behind, but I noticed it faded unevenly. Like the other shades, this was somewhat drying. Urban Decay Shame is warmer, glossier. MAC Endless Drama is similar–a touch darker, maybe, and less matte. MAC What Joy is more berry-hued. Guerlain Gigolo is brighter, less brown, glossy. See comparison swatches.

Flat Out Fabulous is described as a “bright plum matte.” It’s a cool-toned, fuchsia-plum with a flat, matte finish. It had mostly opaque color payoff, and the consistency is slightly dry and does tug somewhat on lips. It does warm up as you try to apply it from the tube, so there is that, but your best bet would be applying with a lip brush to avoid dragging the product across the lips. This was the fourth I’d tested, and my lips were progressively getting drier and drier, so I’d also have to call this one drying. It lasted well for six and a half hours and then started to fade but did leave behind a stain. Urban Decay Anarchy is brighter, luminous. Maybelline Electric Fuchsia is brighter, lighter, less matte. Maybelline Hot Plum is slightly more plum and less matte. MAC Night Blooming is purpler, less matte. MAC Quick Sizzle is just slightly pinker. MAC Pink Pigeon is brighter, pinker. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

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product

All Fired Up

B+

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4/5

Results
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P
product

Dangerous

A

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

Fixed on Drama

B-

Product

7.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4/5

Results
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