Tuesday, April 17th, 2012

NARS Trouville Nail Lacquer
NARS Trouville Nail Lacquer

NARS Trouville Nail Lacquer

NARS Trouville Nail Lacquer ($18.00 for 0.50 fl. oz.) is described as a “seashell pink.” It’s a soft pink with a hint of coral and yellow undertones. It’s nearly opaque in two coats–under diffused flash, there’s faint visible nail line, but in studio lighting, I couldn’t tell it wasn’t 100% opaque. OCC Femme is a yellow-toned pink, but it’s a bit pinker and has shimmer. Chanel Mistral is also a yellow-toned pink but darker, pinker, and has shimmer. Chanel Morning is the closest in tone, but it’s darker.

The consistency of Trouville was just slightly thicker than ideal, but it applied fairly evenly and easily. Each coat takes a little longer to dry, and if you go too quickly, you risk pulling up the color of the first coat a bit.  I think this is a really lovely choice for spring and summer; it’s warm, breezy, and feminine without being too pastel or too bright.  I could see this working well on toes, too!  I’ve had excellent luck with NARS’ formula–it wears like iron and lasts a full seven days without chipping.

The Glossover

LE
product

Trouville

A
I think this is a really lovely choice for spring and summer; it's warm, breezy, and feminine without being too pastel or too bright. I could see this working well on toes, too!

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4.5/5

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Saturday, April 14th, 2012

Tom Ford Flush Cheek Color
Tom Ford Flush Cheek Color

Tom Ford Flush Cheek Color ($55.00 for 0.28 oz.) is a vibrant coral-orange with a subtle satin-like sheen and a faint shimmer. It’s very similar to Illamasqua Dixie, which is a little pinker and has a cream formula. Tarte Blissful is also incredibly close, and it even has a similar texture. theBalm Frat Boy is similar but a touch pinker.

Flush can be applied sheerly with ease or built up to a medium color coverage–it has enough pigmentation to work on deeper skin tones without being too intense on lighter skin tones. The finish has a natural sheen that isn’t heavy, shimmery, or frosted, so it doesn’t emphasize pores or the texture of the skin. It’s a very flattering shade on warmer skin tones, and though it is more coral-orange than coral-pink, the vibrancy gives it more wearability on cooler skin tones.

The texture of Tom Ford’s blushes is impressive, and truth be told, of all the items from his makeup range, the blushes have been the most impressive. Everything else has left me lukewarm or just a little excited, but the blushes have been fantastic. The texture of Flush is slightly less dense than Lovelust and Wicked, but the texture is very finely-milled, so it feels like silk and melts against the skin. It wore for ten hours and looked just barely faded along the very top of my cheekbones.

The Glossover

P
product

Flush

A+

It's a very flattering shade on warmer skin tones, and though it is more coral-orange than coral-pink, the vibrancy gives it more wearability on cooler skin tones.

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

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Wednesday, April 11th, 2012

Estee Lauder Dramatic Black Pure Color Intense Kajal Eye Crayon
Estee Lauder Dramatic Black Pure Color Intense Kajal Eye Crayon

Estee Lauder Dramatic Black Pure Color Intense Kajal Eye Crayon

Estee Lauder Dramatic Black Pure Color Intense Kajal Eye Crayon ($22.00 for 0.08 oz.) is an intense black with brown undertones. It looks pure black in person, but as is often the case with photos, blacks will either lean brown or black, depending on their actual undertone. Urban Decay Perversion is still a little more intense and has better color payoff in a single stroke. It’s also comparable to MAC Black Black, though this has less of a sheen.

This formula is approved for usage on the lower inner rim of the eye (also known as the water line), which is important to note. It’s also long-wearing, smudge-proof, and budge-proof–once it sets. Because it is Kajal, it is smudge-able for about thirty seconds, but once it sets, it stays put all day long on the lower lash line. On the lower water line, it lasts between six to seven hours. The consistency is very creamy and smooth against the skin, but the pencil itself feels and seems hard–though there’s absolutely no tugging or pulling at the lid whatsoever. I recommend swatching it against your hand once, just to get past the initial sharpness of the point when you first receive it.

It’s fairly opaque in a single pass, though it could use a wee bit more pigment to be truly opaque in one go. It builds up and layers with itself nicely, so it enables even, opaque color coverage with two passes or so.

The Glossover

LE
product

Dramatic Black

A
I love the creaminess of the formula and how well it wears on the lash line! I also love the really matte finish this particular shade has. My only wish is for more color payoff so it would be really opaque in one stroke!

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

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Tuesday, April 10th, 2012

Deborah Lippmann Ray of Light Nail Lacquer
Deborah Lippmann Ray of Light Nail Lacquer

Deborah Lippmann Ray of Light Nail Lacquer

Deborah Lippmann Ray of Light Nail Lacquer ($18.00 for 0.50 fl. oz.) is described as “indigo” and it has a “3D holographic” finish. It’s a rich, deep blue-purple that really does rather close to indigo, though perhaps it’s a little closer to violet. It has holographic flakes that are really well-mixed with the base color. The holographic flakes shift from green to orange to copper to red, though it’s a subtler shift–it tends to look more coppery-red overall. I don’t know of a polish that has both this base color with the holographic flakes in it. SpaRitual Illume has the closest base color, but it is purpler, less blue-toned. ORLY Lunar Eclipse is more of a blue-violet hue, but it’s so much brighter that it looks very different in comparison. SpaRitual Twinkle is also a bit similar, though it’s bluer, and richer–it doesn’t have the jelly-like quality of Ray of Light that makes it look a bit muted. You could try a violet/indigo base color and a holographic top coat perhaps. You won’t quite get the really integrated, smooth look of this shade, but you will probably come close.

Ray of Light was opaque after two coats of polish, though the consistency was a little thicker than ideal and thicker than Deborah Lippmann’s polishes in general. I was surprised it didn’t pool around the edges given the consistency, but it applied fairly easily and evenly.  I wish the formula was a little closer to perfection at this price point, but at least the shade isn’t one I can think of five cousins right away.  A little thinner would likely help the consistency, if you have it on hand.  Deborah Lippmann’s formulas wear really well on me–I get a week of wear with very minor tip wear but no chipping.

The Glossover

LE
product

Ray of Light

A
I like that it's not something I have in my collection, but the formula is on the thicker side, which is disappointing. The color coverage is excellent, and I didn't have any problems during application, despite the thicker consistency.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4.5/5

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Monday, April 9th, 2012

Essie Navigate Her Nail Lacquer
Essie Navigate Her Nail Lacquer

Essie Navigate Her Nail Lacquer

Essie Navigate Her Nail Lacquer ($8.00 for 0.50 fl. oz.) is described as a “new growth green.” It’s a soft pastel green with subtle warm yellow undertones. The closest dupe I could think of was Zoya Tracie, which has subtle metallic shimmer running through it. It’s also a little yellower. Barielle Myrza’s Meadow is also a bit similar, though a touch lighter, and it has multi-colored flecks of sparkle.  I love the yellow component to this, because it keeps it from being a cool, minty green that screams winter to me; the warmth gives it the freshness of springtime to me.

Navigate Her was opaque in two coats. The initial coat was a little streaky, but it was opaque and even with the second coat. It had a well-balanced consistency that was neither too thick or too thin, so it applied fluidly and evenly without pooling or bubbling. I tested Navigate Her for wear, and it managed a full seven days without chipping and had minimal tip wear at the end of the week.

The Glossover

LE
product

Navigate Her

A
This will be beautiful against neutral and warm skin tones in particular--though it has subtle warm undertones, so I think cooler complexions can still pull this off. The formula was really easy to work with, and there was excellent color payoff.

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

5/5

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Friday, April 6th, 2012

Tom Ford Platinum Cream Color
Tom Ford Platinum Cream Color

Tom Ford Platinum Cream Color

Tom Ford Platinum Cream Color ($40.00 for 0.21 oz.) is a medium-dark brown with subtle, warm red undertones. There is an ever-so-slight hint of gray that makes it almost taupe when it’s not sheered out, but it kept looking brown, brown, brown on me. I thought my eyes were playing tricks on me, because it’s called Platinum and the online “swatch” shows it as more of a pewter-like hue. Even in the pot, it looks more taupe-brown.  But here’s the thing: it does seem to go on less brown on the lids–it does look a little closer to platinum, but it is one finicky shade to photograph. So to that end, all of the possible dupes are browner.  It appears that the silver sheen comes out when there’s a lot of light; as I sat in my office with just a floor lamp on, it looked decidedly brown-taupe.  This is the sign of a complex shade, I suppose.

To me, it seemed like this color was more dupe-able than not. I had so many shades pulled up to compare this to. Urban Decay Midnight Rodeo is very similar, perhaps less red-toned. Bobbi Brown Champagne Truffle is more metallic but similar in color to the sheered out swatch. MAC Aloha is a little grayer. Buxom Mutt is similar to the sheered out swatch, though less warm. Urban Decay YDK is similar but a hint redder. MAC Buckwheat is darker, less shimmered. Urban Decay Wreckage is grayer. MAC Sable is richer, deeper. Urban Decay Toasted is similar to the heavier swatch, no gray tint.

Tom Ford describes the formula as “highly reflective,” “ultra-pigmented”, “non-creasing”, and “long-wearing.” Boy, I had some mixed emotions when I tested these. First, PR had already informed that these were nearly sold out in-stores, which lit some fuel under my butt to test it ASAP. The spring collection just launched on both Saks and Neiman Marcus, though, and everything appears to be in-stock, so not to fear if you’ve been looking for a way to blow $40. Second, as soon as I opened the pot and saw the consistency that awaited me, I was like, “This is going to be a big ol’ mess!” Looks are, thankfully, extremely deceiving!

Platinum delivers good results overall, though it does crease faintly after eight hours of wear without a base. It’s not smudge- or budge-proof–if you press your fingertip against your eyelid, you’ll see a fair amount of product transfer. I didn’t experience any fading, fall out, or migration while wearing this shade yesterday (ten hours in total). The consistency is a lightweight cream, almost more like a mousse because of its airy quality, that spreads and smooths out easily and evenly. From recent memory, the texture reminded me of a lighter, more airy version of MAC’s Big Bounce eyeshadows (you can see why I was wary!).

I used MAC’s 242 brush, which is a firm, flat bristled brush, to apply it to my eyelids, and I had no problem getting an opaque layer of color in one go. If you want a sheerer look, I’d recommend dabbing on very little and then blending. I figured I’d go crazy and opt to apply a good layer of it, as it was described as “ultra-pigmented.” I really thought it was going to crease right then and there, but it dries down quickly but remains smudgeable around the edges, since it is not smudge-proof.

What’s hard to see in photos is the soft, luminous side of the shade. It plays with the light in a subtle way that’s both dazzling and sophisticated. This is not glitter, and it’s not even a frost. I’d like to coin the phrase “satin metallic,” because I feel like that’s the most apt description of the finish here. Platinum was really lovely all on its lonesome, not as a wash, but as a full-color coverage product, just taken above the crease and blended out.  It’s packaged in a screw-top glass jar and holds a little more than the average cream eyeshadow does. I’m a little surprised to see that the TF logo is a sticker pressed on top. At first, I thought it was just a clear sticker over the actual TF, but I peeled it all the way off and the entire thing came off.

The Glossover

product

Platinum

A

I'm torn--there's a part of me that's still chafing at the price tag. For a cream eyeshadow? Really? What? And then another part of me that knows this is Tom Ford, this is luxury, and that is really the point. Thankfully, it performs fairly well, and it is extremely well-pigmented. The texture is what will sell it, though, because it's so smooth.

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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