Monday, September 9th, 2013

Urban Decay Black Market 24-7 Glide-On Pencil Set
Urban Decay Black Market 24-7 Glide-On Eye Pencil Set

Urban Decay Black Market 24-7 Glide-On Eye Pencil Set ($36.00 for 6 x 0.03 oz.) includes six eyeliners, five of them new and exclusive shades, with one that’s part of the permanent range. The pencils are 25% smaller than full-sized (0.03 oz. vs. 0.04 oz.), so the total value of the set is $85.50. This set is an easy way to try out Urban Decay’s eyeliner formula, if you haven’t previously, as for the price of less than two full-sized eyeliners, you can get six. And for many of us, we have far more eyeliners than eyes, so getting more colors in a slightly smaller size is really not an issue. 😉 Now, the only bummer is if you fall in love with one of the new shades, you won’t find it in the permanent range. (But Urban Decay does add previously exclusive shades into their permanent range from time to time, so maybe you’ll get lucky.) It’s available now at ULTA, but it officially launches tomorrow and is part of Urban Decay’s holiday collection!

Overall, the set includes six shades that all wore well on me (between eight and nine hours of good wear, then less stellar wear–such as thinner/faded but no issues with the eyeliners migrating or smudging). Some of the shades lacked really rich, intense pigmentation in one layer, so you will need to build the color up when applying, as most are quite buildable in two to three passes across the lash line.

West is described as “dark brown pearl.” It’s a medium-dark brown with a golden satin sheen and warm, slightly yellow-y undertones. It had nice color payoff in a single pass, and the color was fully opaque in one and a half passes across the lash line. It wore well for just over eight hours, and I saw some slight fading of the color after nine and a half hours. This shade is new and exclusive. Kat Von D Immortal Love is much darker. Urban Decay Whiskey is matte and more red-toned. Urban Decay Hustle is lighter, warmer. MAC Photogravure is darker. MAC Lord It Up is more sparkly. See comparison swatches.

Desperation is described as “deep taupe-gray matte.” It’s a medium-dark, gray-leaning taupe with soft brown undertones and a matte finish. This is part of the permanent range. It has decent color payoff in one pass, and it is buildable to more opaque color on the lash line. It lasted well for a full eight hours, and then it started to show signs of fading after nine hours–just a thinning of the color but no smudging or migrating. Laura Mercier Slate seems warmer. Urban Decay Stray Dog is lighter, shimmery. bareMinerals 11PM is darker. See comparison swatches.

Black Market is described as “charcoal black satin.” It’s a deep, gray-ish black with very, very subtle green/teal pearl. It had decent pigmentation in a single stroke and was buildable to opaque color on the lash line. It lasted eight hours well, and then after nine hours, I saw some thinning of the eyeliner. This shade is new and exclusive. MAC Black Swan is more glittery. bareMinerals Midnight is warmer. bareMinerals 11PM is lighter. See comparison swatches.

Riot is described as “smoky gray matte with violet and fuchsia micro-sparkle.” It’s a dark purple with subtle warm undertones and flecks of violet, purple, silver shimmer. It had sheerer color payoff when I applied a single layer, but it was buildable to mostly opaque color coverage. It lasted eight hours well on my lash line, but it was noticeably thinner after nine hours of wear. This shade is new and exclusive. Urban Decay Empire is similar–slightly brighter. Urban Decay Delinquent is warmer, darker. MAC Permaplum is less shimmery. See comparison swatches.

Apathy is described as “metallic olive green shimmer.” It’s a dark, forest green with olive and subtle brown undertones–while it is olive in tone, it is almost cool-toned because of the emerald green shimmer. It had weak color payoff in a single stroke, but it was more buildable with a few layers; on the lash line, it took three to four passes for mostly opaque color. It wore well for almost nine hours with some light fading (but no smudging/migrating) after ten hours. This shade is new and exclusive. MAC Devotion is similar, slightly darker. NARS Rue de Rivoli is lighter. Urban Decay Mildew is slightly warmer. See comparison swatches.

Ink is described as “deep navy blue satin.” It’s a rich, navy blue with cool undertones and a subtle, pearly sheen. It had great color payoff in one pass, and it was buildable as well (if you desired). It wore well for eight and a half hours, and it started to thin after nine and a half hours. This shade is new and exclusive. Urban Decay Sabbath is less shimmery, darker. NARS Rue Saint-Honore is brighter. MAC Blue Stripe is more muted. MAC Petrol Blue is more sparkly. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

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Black Market

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Overall, the set includes six shades that all wore well on me (between eight and nine hours of good wear, then less stellar wear--such as thinner/faded but no issues with the eyeliners migrating or smudging). Some of the shades lacked really rich, intense pigmentation in one layer, so you will need to build the color up when applying, as most are quite buildable in two to three passes across the lash line.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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LE
product

West

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Desperation

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Sunday, September 8th, 2013

Bobbi Brown Baby Pink Lip Color
Bobbi Brown Baby Pink Lip Color

Bobbi Brown Baby Pink Lip Color ($25.00 for 0.12 oz.) is a light-medium, pink beige with subtle warm undertones and a soft, pearly finish–not a satin but not a full-on frost. It had mostly opaque color coverage with a lightly creamy consistency that glided across lips without pulling or tugging. This shade lasted well for four hours. Flower Beauty Petal Kiss is pinker, more matte. Giorgio Armani Blush is pinker, less shimmery. Guerlain Mitsouko is sheerer. Chanel Gardenia is slightly pinker. Make Up For Ever #4 is darker, pinker, matte. See comparison swatches.

Bobbi Brown Berry Lip Color ($25.00 for 0.12 oz.) is a raspberry pink with cool undertones and a luminous finish. It had very nearly opaque color but was just the slightest bit translucent–it kept it from looking too heavy on the lip. The color applied evenly and smoothly without dragging across the lip as the consistency was nicely creamy. It lasted six hours well without drying my lips out. Chanel Esprit is redder. Urban Decay Catfight is brighter. Chanel Suspense is similar. Chanel Fiction is slightly redder. Revlon Sorbet is a touch pinker. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

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Baby Pink

A-
It had mostly opaque color coverage with a lightly creamy consistency that glided across lips without pulling or tugging. This shade lasted well for four hours.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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LE
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Berry

A
It had very nearly opaque color but was just the slightest bit translucent--it kept it from looking too heavy on the lip. The color applied evenly and smoothly without dragging across the lip as the consistency was nicely creamy. It lasted six hours well without drying my lips out.

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Saturday, September 7th, 2013

theBalm Swiss Dot Instain Long-Wearing Staining Powder Blush
theBalm Swiss Dot Instain Long-Wearing Staining Powder Blush

theBalm Swiss Dot Instain Long-Wearing Staining Powder Blush ($22.00 for 0.20 oz.) is described as a “peach.” It’s a medium-dark orange with subtle red undertones and a matte finish. Chanel Presage is similar but a cream product. NARS Gilda is slightly pinker. MAC Early Morning is a touch more muted. MAC Out for Fun is slightly redder and brighter, also a cream product. Guerlain Peach Boy #1 is pinker/redder. Chanel Frivole is slightly lighter. See comparison swatches.

It’s intensely pigmented with rich color payoff. The texture is soft and finely-milled without being powdery. It does have a tendency to cling to the skin almost immediately, so I highly recommend applying over totally dry/set foundation (if it is liquid/cream) with a light hand and patting, then blending. You may consider lightly dusting cheeks with a finishing or setting powder and then applying the blush, because this will help it blend better. Even on bare skin, it sometimes would stick where it landed, and it would be difficult to blend out. Swiss Dot wore well, though, for eight and a half hours, and after ten hours of wear, it started looking patchy, so it lives up to its long-wearing claim.

The Glossover

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Swiss Dot

A-
It's intensely pigmented with rich color payoff. The texture is soft and finely-milled without being powdery. It does have a tendency to cling to the skin almost immediately, so I highly recommend applying over totally dry/set foundation (if it is liquid/cream) with a light hand and patting, then blending.

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Thursday, September 5th, 2013

Laura Mercier Cobalt Longwear Eye Pencil
Laura Mercier Cobalt Longwear Eye Pencil

Laura Mercier Cobalt Longwear Eye Pencil ($24.00 for 0.04 oz.) is a medium, navy blue–there’s just a little brightness so it’s not a full-on navy blue. If it were actually intensely pigmented, it would be really quite a rich shade of blue with a nice balance between bright and dark, so it wouldn’t read neon on the lash line but add more pop than something more muted. The consistency was still creamy, but it was sheer and hard to build up the color even when I went back and forth. It seemed to last about seven hours on the lash line, and then it looked thinner but not smudged or migrated, after eight hours. Sephora My Boyfriend’s Jeans has slight pearl and is brighter. Urban Decay Chaos is brighter. See comparison swatches.

Espresso Longwear Eye Pencil ($24.00 for 0.04 oz.) is a rich, medium-dark mahogany brown with warm, red undertones and a mostly matte finish. It had good color payoff in a single pass, and it was buildable to fully opaque color in two passes on the lash line. The consistency was creamy and didn’t tug or pull on the skin or eye area. This shade wore well for eight and a half hours without fading, migrating, or smudging, but it does take a little longer to set (which is nice if you tend to smudge your eyeliner). NARS Via de Martelli is lighter, warmer. Make Up For Ever #25L is less warm-toned. Urban Decay Bourbon is similar. NARS Via Appia is darker. MAC Brown Border is similar. MAC Seasonally Spicy is similar, slightly lighter. Make Up For Ever Gypsy is darker. See comparison swatches.

Noir Longwear Eye Pencil ($24.00 for 0.04 oz.) is a medium-dark black with subtle warm undertones and a mostly matte finish. It had decent pigmentation in a single stroke, but it builds up nicely in two or so passes along the lash line. It wore well for ten hours with very light thinning but no smudging or migrating. Every line needs a black, but you likely already have one in your stash! See comparison swatches.

Laura Mercier’s new Longwear Creme Eye Pencils are supposed to apply smoothly and evenly, be richly pigmented, last for 12 hours (yes, a full 12!), be “water-poof, smudge-proof, transfer-proof, and tear-resistant.” Each pencil comes with a pencil sharpener as well. I can’t say I wet swimming in these, but I did splash my face/eye area with water, and I didn’t experience any of the colors running or bleeding as a result. Cobalt was very prone to being rubbed away (but it didn’t bleed), but Espresso and Noir clung on a lot better and really held up quite well to when in contact with water.

The Glossover

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Cobalt

D-
The consistency was still creamy, but it was sheer and hard to build up the color even when I went back and forth. It seemed to last about seven hours on the lash line, and then it looked thinner but not smudged or migrated, after eight hours.

Product

4/10

Pigmentation

5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

2.5/5

Results
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Espresso

A-
The consistency was creamy and didn't tug or pull on the skin or eye area. This shade wore well for eight and a half hours without fading, migrating, or smudging, but it does take a little longer to set (which is nice if you tend to smudge your eyeliner).

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Noir

A-
It had decent pigmentation in a single stroke, but it builds up nicely in two or so passes along the lash line. It wore well for ten hours with very light thinning but no smudging or migrating.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Thursday, September 5th, 2013

NARS Tatar Eye Paint
NARS Tatar Eye Paint

NARS Tatar Eye Paint ($25.00 for 0.08 oz.) is described as a “black with purple shimmer.” It’s a subtly violet-tinted black with violet, purple, and fuchsia micro-shimmer–which translates as a shimmery, blackened purple. Urban Decay Delinquent appears lighter with larger purple sparkle. MAC Permaplum is lighter, less shimmery. Estee Lauder Blackened Plum is matte. Bobbi Brown Twilight Night is slightly warmer. See comparison swatches.

I was worried this was going to perform like Ubangi, but this didn’t have as much slip (a good thing!), so while it was creamy and easy to spread out, it didn’t sheer out right off the bat. It ended up being more like Snake Eyes in terms of consistency and wear.  As an eyeliner, it applies pretty much with opaque color without skipping or dragging, and as an eyeshadow, it goes on mostly opaque with just a little sheerness.  The formula is buildable, so you can achieve full color coverage by lightly patting on a second layer in the places that need it.  It held up better on the lash line–nine hours without fading or smudging–than on the lid, which is wear it had some slight creasing after eight hours of wear.

You can view all of the other shades of Eye Paint here (which have all been previously reviewed).

The Glossover

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product

Tatar

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Wednesday, September 4th, 2013

KBShimmer The Grape Beyond Nail Lacquer
KBShimmer The Grape Beyond Nail Lacquer

KBShimmer The Grape Beyond Nail Lacquer ($8.75 for 0.50 fl. oz.) is described as a “matte purple polish … with very subtle turquoise shimmer.” The shimmer is only supposed to be noticeable in the light and when used with a top coat, otherwise, it is medium-dark purple with a matte finish and subtle reddish-plum tones. There is a fine dusting of teal micro-shimmer that definitely comes out to play more so with a glossy top coat on top. I didn’t realize it when I was swatching these two, but it was actually designed to work specifically with Would Jubilee It?, which is a glitter top coat. What’s nice about a matte finish is you can always add a top coat to change it up. The first coat was slightly streaky, and the second coat was better, though there was some slight visible nail line even after two coats. If you have noticeable ridges (like me), you might want to add a ridge-filling base coat prior. Illamasqua Faux Pas is a bit darker and has a rubber finish. Zoya Mira is less muted, has a shinier finish. See comparison swatches.

Would Jubilee It? Nail Lacquer ($8.75 for 0.50 fl. oz.) is described as “circle glitters in fuchsia, aqua, and silver; hex glitters in sapphire and turquoise; and micro slices in fuchsia, aqua, and silver.” It’s an assortment of large circular glitter in fuchsia, silver, and turquoise; then smaller hexagon-shaped glitters in navy blue and turquoise, and then even smaller glitters in fuchsia, silver, and turquoise. There were also short bars of turquoise, fuchsia, and silver glitter. I applied one coat over The Grape Beyond, and then I applied two coats of the glitter top coat alone on my thumb, plus one coat of KBShimmer’s Top Coat (as recommended). You’ll need to push and pull the glitters into place so they don’t bunch up in places. I found the large circular glitter to be more difficult to drag into place, and they tended to just stay where they initially landed. I think one coat isn’t dense enough, but two coats might be too dense, so you’ll have to maneuver and dab as needed to get the right coverage. I typically get a week of wear with KBShimmer’s formula, both regular and glitter top coats.

I also want to give praise to KBShimmer for their really clear, straight-forward descriptions–not only in regards to the type of product, how many coats to use, but they also provide insight as to the glitter size and load. For The Grape Beyond, there was a note that mentioned that “the first coat [is] a bit streaky, but the second went on perfectly for full coverage,” how many brands are willing to admit something like that? Kudos!

The Glossover

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The Grape Beyond

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Would Jubilee It?

B

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

3/5

Results
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