Y & KEI | MAC Face & Body Foundation mixed with Pearl Creme Colour Base was applied to the skin for fresh, dewy, sheer, ethereal skin. MAC Cork Eye Shadow was applied with Brush under the lower lash line and in the crease. The lower lash line was accentuated with layers of Kid, Cork and Embark Eye Shadows. To maintain bare lips, MAC PRO Lip Erase was patted onto the lips. For a slight gloss, MAC PRO Longwear Gloss Coat was layered on top.
“The inspiration for the show was Strange Beauty; imagine the most beautiful women in the world looking a little sick and tired,” says Gregory Arlt.
CHRISTIAN COTA | For designer Christian Cota’s presentation, makeup artist Christian McCulloch used thin sheer washes of dark colours; rich browns and wine burgundy — to create a new version of the natural look; a wash of cabernet in the crease of the eyes, and a dot of ruby lip pigment used to add roses to the pale skin. It’s all about using your old makeup shades and mixing them down with gels that are either shiny or matte and applying them with a brush so you stop at the desired texture you want.
BREAKDOWN | MAC Face and Body Foundation was buffed into the skin. Mineralized Skinfinish Blush in Spring Sheen was placed high on the cheekbones using MAC Brush 138. MAC Chocolate Brown and Satin Taupe Pigments were blended from lid to brow with a 217 Brush. The pigments were also applied along the lower lash line. MAC Eye Kohl in Fascinating was applied to the water line.MAC Chocolate Brown and Satin Taupe Pigments were blended from lid to brow with a 217 Brush. The pigments were also applied along the lower lash line. MAC Lipstick in Media was pressed onto the lips.
“Siberian ice princess. Wintery, dusky, mushroom, cool tones,” says Christian McCulloch.
REBECCA TAYLOR | To go with Rebecca Taylor’s chic American dresses and jackets, Romy Soleimani lined the eyes with a brown/black combo, using tawny pink and taupe to sculpt the cheek, and making the matte lip more modern by mixing washes of wine, pink and a little violet to create a new neutral that resembles a glass of sherry on the rocks. Yum.
BILL BLASS | Tom Pecheux’s face for Bill Blass was one of the most memorable of the week; “it’s glam rock,” is how he described a palette of shimmery plums. On the eyes, Pecheux chose an antiqued plum pigment shadow that went from lash to crease — then deepened the eye look by putting Carbon, a smoky eye shadow, in the crease, making the magenta gradient and rich. After using Smolder Eye Kohl inside the eyes and out — Pecheux mixed fuchsia and bright orange powder blushes high on the cheek in that seventies “V” shape to create cheekbones straight out of Studio 54. “It’s like a facelift with blush,” he laughed. The lips were blotted out with Lip Erase in Dim — for an all-over effect of Brooke Shields on an Interview cover in 1978.
BREAKDOWN | For matte skin, MAC Studio Fix Fluid Foundation was stippled onto the skin. Cheeks were coloured with a mix of Full Fuchsia and Orange Devil Blush. MAC Rouge Flambe Pigment was applied to the lids for a pop of plum and shimmer. Smolder Eye Pencil was lined onto the top and bottom lash lines. Carbon Eye Shadow was layered over the liner with an Eye Liner Brush, extending at the ends and winged upwards toward the hairline. The lip was kept very nude and natural with an application of Spice Lip Liner and MAC PRO Lip Erase in Pale.
“Sexy, 80s, Glam – rock – power girl.” Tom Pecheux – Key Artist
TOMMY HILFIGER | We saw a lot of blue eye shadow this week, used in new ways. Lisa Butler mixed a blue eye shadow with black on the eyelids at Tommy Hilfiger — then used the blue as eye liner — and even pushed it into the top lashes to really bring home the blue theme. Then she used Dainty Mineralize Blush and Chic Lipstick on the lips. “It’s very, very clean and tidy,” said Butler.
BREAKDOWN | MAC Face and Body Foundation was applied with a 190 Brush and Mineralized Skinfinish in Natural was dusted over from center out to create a sheer finish. Cheeks were coloured lightly with Fleur Power Blush. MAC Blue Storm Eye Shadow was applied with Brush 209 to the top lash line for a soft, bright blue line. Lashes were curled and MAC PRO Lash Mascara was applied to lashes to create dark, separated lashes. Lingering Brow Pencil was softly applied to brows with Brush 311. MAC Vegas Volt Lipstick was brushed on the lips with Brush 194 for a sheer, bright coral stain.
“Young, chic, clean and well-mannered. The neatness of Lily Allen,” says Lisa Butler.
ZAC POSEN | Take the Robert Palmer video vixens, add in French ballerinas, Suzy Parker in haute couture in the early sixties — and Minnie Mouse — and you have Zac Posen’s cheeky, chic-y girls. With their hair slicked into Balanchine buns that had Mouse ear pom poms attached, these girls practically cried out for matte red lipstick — and, courtesy of Charlotte Tilbury, they got it. She covered the lips with Beet Lip Pencil, then covered it with Ruby Wu Lipstick, “the best blue-red matte on the market,” she said. Then she made the mouth more rose-like and deeper by adding burgundy in the center. The eyes were, as Tilbury described, “sweaty” — “this is a girl who’s been partying all night. She’s the ultimate Helmut Newton girl.” The sweaty nightlife eye was gunmetal, grey and indigo mixed with gloss. The overall look was couture goes to clubs â€“ and does ballet on the dance floor.
BREAKDOWN | MAC Moisturecover Concealer was applied where needed. Blot Powder Loose was applied to the center of the face with Brush 168. MAC Eye Kohl in Smolder was applied on top and bottom lash lines, around the eyes. Sharkskin Shade Stick mixed with MAC Gloss Texture was applied on lids and crease and extended past the outer corner of the eyes using Brush 217. MAC Zoom Lash Mascara in Black was applied to top and bottom lashes. Brows were combed with Brow Set Clear. MAC Cherry Lip Pencil was used to line the lips. MAC Ruby Woo Lipstick was applied to the entire lip, followed by Charred Lipstick placed in the center of the lip and blended with Brush 316.
“It’s a sexy, mannequin look. Just like the girls have been partying all night,” says Charlotte Tilbury.
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NANETTE LEPORE | We’ve seen a lot of new looks for fall this week; colour on the eyes, purple lips, gradient eye makeup, and eye colour that goes from lid to brow. But there are plenty of New York designers who still love the “clean, modern, fresh” girl of New York who doesn’t try to look good — she just does. Polly Osmond gave Nanette’s wavy-haired women a pale pink lip with tinted moisturizer, and a very groomed brow with Brow Set and pencil — and went for the cat eyes with dark grey shadow at the upper and lower corners of the models’ eyes — giving them those far apart eyes that became so trendy a few years ago. “Nanette wanted them to be modern pretty,” said Polly. And they were.
MILLY | The clothes at Milly are always très femme — this time in a palette of black and white and grey — but the hair for fall was highly stylized; tight, almost frizzy, Edith Piaf marcel waves. So Romy Soleimani matched the Parisian hair with a very soft red lip that was matted and made sheer to the point of being almost pale. Call it “modern red.” The only other facial element outside of concealer was a bit of black eyeliner at the edges of the eye, done with a pencil and pigment, and extended out. The cheeks were clean, and berets completed the jaunty Frenchy face.
BREAKDOWN | For a silky, clean finish, MAC Studio Sculpt Foundation was pressed onto skin with brush. Nude Crème Colour Base was applied lightly in the corner of the eyes and on the cheekbones to highlight. MAC Studio Moistureblend Concealer was applied where needed. Smolder Eye Pencil was smudged into root of top and bottom lash lines with Eye Liner Brush. Top lashes were curled and both top and bottom were defined with a light coat of Zoom Lash Mascara. MAC Desire Lipstick was applied from the center of the lips outward with a Lip brush. The lips were then lightly patted with fingers to create a slight stain.
“A cool French girl drinking a glass of champagne, watching a foreign film or walking downtown. Looking fabulous with little effort,” says Romy Soleimani.
CARLOS MIELE | Christian McCulloch went ultra minimal because, he told us, “Carlos Miele’s clothes are so glam, I wanted the clothes to speak for themselves.” So a groomed brow, grey eye liner and a sheer coral lip — neutral with just a touch of red and brown pigments mixed together — looked finished in the only show to feature ultra straight hair parted in the middle.
BREAKDOWN | For clean, beautiful, sheer skin, MAC Face and Body Foundation was applied with a brush, followed by a dust of Blot Powder Loose. Melon Pigment was sheered out on the cheeks to highlight. To create a smoky eye, MAC Greensmoke Eye Shadow was blended on the lid and applied to the lower lash line. Tealo Powerpoint Eye Pencil lined the upper lash line and Tarnish Eye Kohl was used to colour the water line. MAC Black X Mascara was coated onto the top and bottom lashes. MAC PRO Lip Erase in Dim was patted onto the lips followed by a touch of Fresco Cream Colour Base to create a perfect pale, beige lip.
“Classic, sexy, cool, rocker chick – Kate Moss,” says Christian McColloch.
RICHARD CHAI | Wednesday was the day of minimalist makeup around New York. But then, James Kaliardos knows that Richard Chai does straight-ahead American sportswear in great fabrics. So he gave the models the “classic New York face”: a taupe cheek that sculpts and contours, nude lips — blotted out with tinted concealer — and a feline brow to match a feline eye, shadowed with a bit of tawny pink. It felt right with Chai’s more boyish aesthetic this fall.
BREAKDOWN | MAC Face and Body Foundation was brushed on to the face. A mix of Strobe Cream and Pearl Cream Colour Base was applied to the cheekbones and nose to highlight. Fleur Power Blush was placed high on the cheek for a touch of shimmer and color. MAC Naked Lunch Eye Shadow was applied from lash line to crease. A line of Phone Number Eye Kohl and Print Eye Shadow was brushed onto the crease and shaded to break up the linear feel. Pale Yellow Eye Pencil was shaded into the inner corner of the eyes. MAC Hollywood Eye Shadow in Kitty was applied on the outer corner of the eyes. Lashes were kept bare. To pale down the lips, MAC PRO Lip Erase in Dim was patted on and 3N Lipstick was layered over.
“Graphic and precise – a design that feels new,” says James Kaliardos.
TEMPERLEY | There’s a strong “boy” aesthetic for fall — but you’ll never get that from Alice Temperley, whose pure Brit “frocks” could come straight out of Shakespeare’s”Midsummer Night’s Dream.” She’s so very English that Charlotte Tilbury gave her English Rose pale skin with pinkish cheeks and a bit of highlight above them, a matte pink berry mouth — a combo of rose and coffee coloured lipsticks for fall and a shiny liquid eye dotted with rose, brown and gold, and lots of lashes, top and bottom. Very, very girl — no boys allowed here.
BREAKDOWN | Studio Fix Fluid was applied to the face. Using Brush 116, Matte Bronze was brushed lightly for a soft contouring and hint of colour. MAC Blackground Paint Pot was applied in the crease and pulled out in a straight line to extend the shape of the eye. Blackground Paint Pot was also blended out on the top lash line. Dark Brown Cream Colour Base was applied to the center of the lid, smudged into the Blackground Paint Pot with Brush 242. The inner corners of the eyes were highlighted with Silverfog Pigment with Brush 239, as well as layered lightly on the lid. Smolder Eye Pencil was applied to the bottom lash line and smudged with Brush 242. Top lashes were coated with Loud Lash Mascara. Browset Clear was used to comb the brows upward. MAC PRO Lip Erase was applied to the lips, followed by Lip Conditioner for a light, nude lip.
“It’s a smoky eye. She’s a 70s woman playing poker,” says Charlotte Tilbury.
CAROLINA HERRERA | “Eclectic” is a way to describe the new fall aesthetic, but “texture” is also coming into play along with “color.” At the show, Diane Kendal went for a big pop of color on the lips to get a “really dark stained mouth.” She started with a brown base with a burgundy base layered on top, dusted lightly with powder, and then coating with a brown-burgundy lipstick. Finally, she dotted black pigment on the center of the lower lip for a “bitten effect.” She then used the same burgundy base to smudge onto cheeks and finished with a flourish of mascara. “It’s all about a strong mouth. It’s sophisticated, but playful at the same time,” says Diane Kendal.
Look breakdown | MAC Studio Tech Foundation was applied where needed for fresh, moisturized skin. Burgundy Paintstick was blended onto the apples of the cheeks with fingers. A small about of MAC Fluidline in Blacktrack was applied to the lash line with Brush 210. Eye lashes were curled and coated with Plush Lash Mascara in Black – heavy on the top lashes and light on the bottom lashes. A mixture of MAC Lip Pencils in Nightmoth and Chestnut were sheared out on the lips and Media Lipstick was layered over. A touch of MAC Créme Colour Base in Black was blended into the center of the lips with Brush 316.
MALADRINO | Tom Pecheux went with green eyes to keep with the show’s theme of green and organic. He used a dark green, lime green, and moss green to create a rounded eye up to the crease of the eye. The models had bare cheeks and a matte nude lip that was created by MAC’s Lip Erase that Pecheux described as “it’s like a concealer and lipstick in one.” “Very organic. Very green. Reminiscent of leaves,” says Tom Pecheux.
Look breakdown | For very matte skin, MAC Studio Fix Fluid was applied to the face, followed by Blot Powder Loose. Using MAC Brush 224, Bitter Eye Shadow was applied very lightly all over lids and softly in the crease. Velvet Moss Eye Shadow was brushed onto the lower lash line, followed by Tealo Powerpoint Eye Pencil layered gently over lower lash line. Using MAC Brush 224, Bitter Eye Shadow was applied very lightly all over lids and softly in the crease. Velvet Moss Eye Shadow was brushed onto the lower lash line, followed by Tealo Powerpoint Eye Pencil layered gently over lower lash line. Lips were conditioned with Lip Conditioner to help with texture, followed by Lip Erase.
LUCA LUCA | Again, Tom Pecheux created a look that represented the Luca Luca lady who is “cash–and sass,” so he opted for gold on the lid and crease. The lips were a sheer coral so keep the emphasis on the eyes with everything else more understated. “Sophisticated glam rock,” says Tom Pecheux.
Look Breakdown | MAC Studio Fix Fluid was applied where needed on the face, followed by Select Sheer Loose Powder. MAC Carbon and Ground Brown Eye Shadows were blended from lash line to just above the crease for a smoky eye. Satin Taupe Eye Shadow was placed in the corners of the eyes brushed out and up towards the brows with Brush 224. MAC 7 Lashes were applied, followed by MAC PRO Lash in Black. A sheer lip was created with applying MAC Lust is Lush Lipgelee.
PORTS 1961 | Isabelle LaPage created a look that represented the pink skin of a Scottish girl, only she went with played down lips using burgundy pigmented mixed with MAC’s Matte Gel. She kept eyes glossy with high shine by using a berry lip gelee. She placed clear plastic pieces on top, “so it was little like a cherry popsicle highlighted the eyes.”
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HERVE LEGER | “She’s mean,” is how Val Garland described the tough sexy woman who prances in Herve Leger bandage dresses. “The Leger lady is severely sexy — not obvious sexy.” She threw out the smoky cat eye and instead did a liquid sparkly gold eye with a very chalky pink matte lip complimented by a matte cheek with a subtle shine like wetness.
DKNY | Charlotte Tilbury opts to go for a fresh, wide-eyed kind of look. She used MAC’s to-be-launched mascara for dazzling lashes, while the lips were a mixture of Lush and Rapturous mattene lipsticks. Cheeks were sculpted and painted a soft pink.
PREEN | James Kaliardos went for a colorface that is reminscent of Kim Basinger in “Nine and a Half Weeks.” He created a grey, taupe rounded eye using regular powder shadows in combination with cream shadows, and he contrasted it with a red lip. It wasn’t a scarlet or blood red, but more like a blue based red that borderlines fuchsia with a touch of gold opalescence.
TULEH | Polly Osmond thought of Charlotte Rampling in the 70s for inspiration, which meant a shiny metallic eye that dominated. She used bronze pigment on the eye with a chocolate shadow in the crease. Emote blush was used to shade and sculpt the cheeks. Polly went for tofee lips using 4N lipstick with 2N lipglass.
JOHNATHAN SAUNDERS | Val Garland mixed and layered warm wine tones; claret, tawny port, merlot — and even a little champagne — to add to the list of fall 2008 faces that are romantic, flushed, wind-touched, with both matte and shiny elements. She calls it “sexy texy.”
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SARI GUERON | “Sari’s clothes have a lot of volume this season,” explained makeup artist Gucci Westman. To counteract this, she opted for “Grey, smudgy, and slept in – very real girl” eyes with nude pink lips. “She’s the girl we all want to be,” laughed Westman. “She doesn’t take hours to do her makeup and she still looks good.”
RUFFIAN | It was all about the eyes as James Kiliardos designed the look for the show. He smeared eyes with a pale gray mixed with violet, followed by gloss “for a hollowed wood nymph effect.” He did focus on the lips by adding a bright pop of a semi-matte red and purple that showed up as a shocking fuchsia. He skipped mascara as well as sculpting the cheeks, so the lips could stand out even more.
THREEASFOUR | Gordon Espinet describes the fall look as “radiance,” which inspired his look for the ThreeAsFour show. The skin is no longer powdered or shiny, just flawless. He applied MAC’s new mineralized blush to give a look of “faces on a cold winter day” and used a rose lip color that was high glossy in finish and yet not at all frosty. He used MAC’s #20 lashes along with Royal Winkd fluidline to make the eyes really pop.
ALEXANDRE HERCHCOVITCH | “Think Bauhaus and pop art,” Philppe Chansel said as he described his inspiration for the looks of the show. He used bright pops of colors in various uses from blue to green or pink or orange from MAC Chromacakes. They were created in dome shapes with black liner and false lashes. He went for a beigey pink gloss on the lips and natural cheeks.
COSTELLO TAGLIAPIETRA | Makeup artist Kabuki was responsible for the makeup seen at the show, where he layered burgundy, pink, and beige pigments to give faces a romantic appeal. “Think Mary Shelley and Frankenstein,” he described as influences. “She’s a little bit witch, a haunted woman straight out of the 19th century romanticism.” She used MAC’s Burnt Burgundy paint stick around the eyes with Taupe over it and adding a coat of gloss.
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JASON WU | In fall 2008, we saw the bright lip, while in spring 2008, it was all about cheeks and alshes. For fall 2008, it is about the glitter eye. At Jason Wu, we saw a very fifties/seventies-lady show of chiffons, florals, and A-line skirts with fur-trimmed sweaters. Artist Romy Soleimani said she gave models’ lips a wine color with layered peach pink over it, to give the illusion that she had just been sipping sherry. She created a gold on grey glitter eye — “grey for cool, and gold for warm,” she said — using MAC’s Reflects, a fine powder glitter. The eyes were soft, not disco, but rather “The harbinger of a whole new zeitgeist.” The cheeks were sculpted using the latest sculpt/shape line.
NICOLE MILLER | “Think Stephanie Seymour or Karen Mulder, the supes of yore,” said Romy Soleimani, who was the key artist for the show featuring brocaded cocktail dresses and coats in yellow or cobalt. It was a rather 80s kind of feel. She used glitter as inspiration with a maroon base that was topped with an olive gold from MAC Reflects glitter. She opted for lipstick in a rosewood color that was put sheerly on without liner, and no gloss. Lashes were looking false, looking incredibly long, but very fluttery–but they weren’t, chalk it up to the newest gel mascara MAC plans to launch later this year.
BABY PHAT | Christopher Ardoff noted Kimora’s inspiration was the 1920s, so he opted for a Clara Bow, Josephine Baker, Billie holiday kind of look. He blocked out brows using a nude pencil while he used grey glitter in a rounded crescent shape for the eyes. He paitned lips a red-orange kind of color that truly stood out. For darker skintones, he added more depth with burgundy glitter to eyes. (See photos below.)