Video Review: NARS Spring 2012 Collection – First Impressions & Swatches

I’ve reviewed everything I have from NARS’ latest collection, which you can view at the links below.  My favorites were Paramaribo and Valparaiso.

• NARS Dark Rite
• NARS Paramaribo Eyeshadow Duo
• NARS Mexican Rose Velvet Gloss Lip Pencil
• NARS Bilbao Lipstick
• NARS Douce France Eyeshadow Trio
• NARS Gaiety Blush
• NARS Lhasa Eyeshadow
• NARS Valparaiso Pure Matte Lipstick

NARS Dark Rite Soft Touch Shadow Pencil

NARS Dark Rite Soft Touch Shadow Pencil ($24.00 for 0.14 oz.) is described as a “navy blue.” It’s a dark navy blue with a shimmery finish. I feel it necessary to do a full copy-and-paste from spring’s press release regarding this product, because too often I receive comments and emails saying I’m being unduly harsh and unfair, all because NARS “meant” for this product to crease; that this is supposed to have that “creased” look.  I’m harsh, but I don’t think unduly so; this is an atrocious product, and from a high-end brand that can and does put out quality products, it’s appalling. I don’t make excuses for brands, least of all when they create products that perform this poorly.

This is what the press release states: “The navy blue Soft Touch Shadow Pencil complements any warm-weather look. Use the creamy, long-wearing formula alone, as a base for layering with powder shadow, or to line and sculpt the eye.” This product is long-wearing by itself, can be used as a base beneath powder eyeshadow, as well as an eyeliner. There is nothing about this product creasing, migrating, moving, turning to sludge, or otherwise indicating it’s supposed to look like this on the lid.

Whenever I wear/experiment NARS’ Soft Touch Shadow Pencils, I notice my eyes are a bit irritated; there’s a burning sensation (not on the lid but of my eye), especially when I use these as eyeliners. I’ve tried Dark Rite in the three methods that NARS states: alone, as a base, and as an eyeliner. None of these methods was successful. The good news is this product creases so quickly that it takes very little time to go through all those tests!

Alone, it fades, smudges on the beneath the lower lash line (from the lid!), creases, and pools into creases. It isn’t dry to the touch after a half hour of wear, which is obviously going to be a problem–if it doesn’t dry, it doesn’t set, so it won’t stay in place. It applies somewhat evenly but does have problems; if you apply with a finger, it seems to just slide around but I wasn’t able to get a really even look with it using my fingers. I had the best luck doing one pass and doing my best not to layer.

As a base with powder eyeshadows on top, it’s both a pain to use (because it’s wet, the powder eyeshadow tends to clump and stick to it but not blend out well; the darker hue also has a tendency to “eat” the eyeshadow) and wear (because it creases after five minutes, just not as bad as it was alone). In the past, I have tried several of these pencils over/under various bases, with/without eyeshadow, and the results are dismal  (See Celebrate.).  I tried the same methods with this one as well with the same disappointing results, whether it’s used alone, underneath eyeshadow, or over a primer, it’s a one-way trip to Crease City.

Finally, as an eyeliner, it smudges and travels further and further away from the lash line. I don’t need any help making my under eye circles look any darker, but this product excelled at it.

The only reason it earns any points is that it is pigmented, but the pigmentation is patchy and uneven, which does impact the overall pigmentation score.  The texture is creamy enough that it glides on the lid without too much tugging or pulling, which accounts for some points.  But you’ll notice that when it comes to overall product score and longevity, there are none.  These continue to be one of the worst formulas I’ve come across.  At $24, it’s a slap in the eye.

If you want a shadow pencil that actually works, consider Urban Decay 24/7 Shadow Pencils, which not only wear all day long without trouble, they’re four bucks cheaper. Here are some navy blue eyeliners to consider as well.

The Glossover

	Dark Rite F
	If you're been looking for a product to deliver a creased, glossy look, perhaps for an editorial, maybe this is up your alley. I suspect you could find a cheaper cream product to do something similar or else pat Vaseline or gloss over your favorite navy blue eyeshadow.
	Product 0/10 Pigmentation 7/10 Texture 5/10 Longevity 0/10 Application 2.5/5
	Where to Buy
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NARS Dark Rite Soft Touch Shadow Pencil

NARS Dark Rite Soft Touch Shadow Pencil

NARS Dark Rite Soft Touch Shadow Pencil

NARS Dark Rite Soft Touch Shadow Pencil – 30 seconds

NARS Dark Rite Soft Touch Shadow Pencil – 5 minutes

NARS Dark Rite Soft Touch Shadow Pencil – 30 minutes

NARS Spring 2012: Paramaribo Eyeshadow Duo

NARS Paramaribo Eyeshadow Duo ($34.00 for 0.14 oz.) is described as “metallic shades of brass and bronze.” For whatever reason, this is one of the few limited edition shades for spring, which is totally too bad–it’s a gorgeous product and my favorite from the spring collection.

The first shade is a rich golden brass with a metallic-frost finish. It’s really smooth, opaque, and easy to work with. The way it binds together makes for a really adhesive, longer-wearing product, too. Make Up For Ever #11 is less golden in a way. OCC Cruising is darker, less yellow. Le Metier de Beaute Chameleon is browner. It also reminded me of the golden tones from MAC Golden Gaze. Urban Decay Rush is much browner.

The second shade is a softened bronze-shimmered brown. This shade is extremely soft and finely-milled, so it feels like silk against the skin and melts like butter once applied. Urban Decay Rush is not quite as dark. Giorgio Armani Khaki Pulse is less warm-toned. MAC Romp is more orange-toned. Urban Decay Deeper is similar. Urban Decay Smog is slightly less golden shimmered.

This eyeshadow formula is supposed to be crease-resistant, long-wearing, and highly pigmented.  Without a primer, they do look a little faded and have minor, but noticeable, creasing after eight hours of wear.  I don’t encounter those problems, typically, over a primer.  Some of the lighter, more powdery shades do fade a bit over a primer, but neither of these shades are like that.  The powders for both shades really bind together well, so they adhere better to the skin.

The Glossover

	NARS Paramaribo Eyeshadow Duo Review, Photos, Swatches A-
	Both shades have excellent color payoffs and beautiful, workable textures that feel soft as silk against the skin. They're warmed-up but not overly warm; there's an edge about them that keeps them from being your more traditional gold and bronze pairing.
	Product 8.5/10 Pigmentation 10/10 Texture 10/10 Longevity 8.5/10 Application 4.5/5
	Where to Buy
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NARS Paramaribo Eyeshadow Duo

NARS Paramaribo Eyeshadow Duo

NARS Paramaribo Eyeshadow Duo

NARS Paramaribo Eyeshadow Duo

NARS Paramaribo Eyeshadow Duo

NARS Paramaribo Eyeshadow Duo

NARS Paramaribo Eyeshadow Duo

NARS Paramaribo Eyeshadow Duo

NARS Spring 2012: Mexican Rose Velvet Gloss Lip Pencil

NARS Mexican Rose Velvet Gloss Lip Pencil ($24.00 for 0.09 oz.) is described as a “hot pink.” It’s new and permanent, just in time for spring. It’s a glossy raspberry pink with a touch of sheerness but is still very pigmented for a gloss and, overall, nearly opaque. There’s a shiny finish that makes the lips look almost wet. MAC Scandelicious is brighter, pinker. MAC Radiant Jewels is similar but less opaque and even. NARS Hot Wired is redder and has a shimmery iridescence. Lancome Electric Pink is a bit lighter and has shimmer.

I reviewed the formula in-depth here. I wore Mexican Rose to test out the wear, though, and it wore for three and a half hours. It’s comfortable to wear, because it has the texture of lip balm–thin, lightweight–but the high-gloss shine of your favorite lipgloss. You won’t get quite the lush lip look without some of the cushion-like texture of a true gloss, but you do get a good amount of added luminosity and fullness from the shine. I also really loved how evenly this applied.

The major downside is that these are not twist-up pencils, so they require sharpening. With the softness of the pencil (which actually broke on me while I was applying it for swatching), you’ll waste a lot if you don’t freeze them (many readers have said they had good luck freezing pencils like this!).

The Glossover

	Mexican Rose A-
	The packaging can be frustrating, but if you're OK with dealing with it, then it's more like an A- product. It feels comfortable on the lips, applies evenly, and yields true color.
	Product 9/10 Pigmentation 10/10 Texture 10/10 Longevity 8.5/10 Application 4/5
	Where to Buy
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NARS Mexican Rose Velvet Gloss Lip Pencil

NARS Mexican Rose Velvet Gloss Lip Pencil

NARS Mexican Rose Velvet Gloss Lip Pencil

NARS Mexican Rose Velvet Gloss Lip Pencil

NARS Mexican Rose Velvet Gloss Lip Pencil

NARS Mexican Rose Velvet Gloss Lip Pencil

NARS Spring 2012: Bilbao Lipstick

NARS Bilbao Lipstick ($24.00 for 0.12 oz.) is described as a “shimmering topaz.” It’s a soft, shimmery dusty beige. Though it seems like there’s some sheerness when swatched, it’s rather opaque on lips. On my lips, it takes on more of a peachy-nude appearance with yellowy-gold shimmer. NARS Pago Pago seems a bit more orange. MAC Lush Amber is more orange. Clarins Rosewood is darker and has more rosiness in it. MAC Martha is darker. MAC Viva Glam V seems quite similar but has less of a golden sheen. Chanel Stunning is not quite as pink.

Bilbao wore for three and half hours well and lingered to four before needing a reapplication. It was comfortable to wear, without being drying (though not particularly hydrating), and felt lightweight. The consistency is creamy, so it glides across the lips easily without tugging or dragging. NARS’ lipsticks are scent- and taste-free.

The Glossover

	NARS Spring 2012: Bilbao Lipstick A-
	If you tend to find nude lipsticks to be too light, pale, or "corpse"-like, then you may find Bilbao worth checking out. It's a darker nude, but it's not brown, so it's wearable but never looks dated. Though don't be afraid of brown lipstick :)
	Product 9/10 Pigmentation 10/10 Texture 9.5/10 Longevity 8/10 Application 4/5
	Where to Buy
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NARS Bilbao Lipstick

NARS Bilbao Lipstick

NARS Bilbao Lipstick

NARS Bilbao Lipstick

NARS Spring 2012: Douce France Eyeshadow Trio

NARS Douce France Eyeshadow Trio ($45.00 for 0.16 oz.) is described as a “shimmery icy pink, shimmery rose petal pink, and matte deep rose.” The trio is a limited edition shade from this spring’s collection.

The first shade is a very light ivory with a hint of pink and a touch of white sparkle. It’s almost a bit on the chalky side, which is partially because of how light the color is, and how the texture has more of a matte finish underneath the sparkle. I had a tough time getting this shade to adhere well to the lid, and I noticed it seemed to fade away, even over a primer, after eight hours. It’s similar to a shade in Guerlain Boulevard du Montparnasse. MAC Golden Flurry is pinker and more iridescent. Bare Escentuals Muse is frostier and brighter.

The center shade is a rosy pink with subtle yellow undertones. The finish is satiny; not too matte, but not shimmery or frosted. It has a very, very soft feel, but it will blend out easily if you are not careful. The color payoff is good but could use a little more (or else bind together a bit better). Inglot #359 and MAC Rose are slightly pinker.

The right-most shade is a matte, muted dark red. It’s not red red, but it’s not really berry or burgundy. There’s a muted quality to it that really makes it ring true to its description–it looks like the dark hues of a real rose. The texture of this shade is so soft and finely-milled without being powdery, and the color payoff is very good (the best out of the palette). It blends out well, too, because of the soft texture. Inglot #450 has more of a berry hue, plus it has a shimmery finish. I couldn’t think of any other potential dupes.

I love that NARS created their trios with individual pans, but it’s a bit of a let down that the price/quantity ratio makes the trios more expensive (by the ounce) than duos (but less than individual eyeshadows). Typically, there’s a bit of a “discount” when you buy duos, trios, quads, etc. Each eyeshadow is still a healthy amount (just over 0.05 oz. each), so you won’t run out of any shade easily.

NARS designed their powder eyeshadow formula to be crease-resistant, long-wearing, and highly pigmented, but I do experience some light fading and noticeable creasing afiter seven to eight hours of wear. The lightest shade in this palette was really faded after eight hours, but the other two shades were more intact. I still experienced a fair amount of fading with the lightest shade over a primer as well, which was disappointing. Thankfully, because it’s so light, the average onlooker wouldn’t have noticed it.

The Glossover

	NARS Douce France Eyeshadow Trio Review, Photos, Swatches B
	The fading is a big issue for me; it really affects the usefulenss and wearability of the palette. Who wants a shade that disappears even over a primer? The combination of hues work together exceptionally well, though, and on light and much deeper skin tones, this will work nicely. I felt like these shades got a little lost on my skin tone personally (which is not reflected in the grade).
	Product 8/10 Pigmentation 9/10 Texture 9/10 Longevity 7.5/10 Application 4/5
	Where to Buy
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NARS Douce France Eyeshadow Trio

NARS Douce France Eyeshadow Trio

NARS Douce France Eyeshadow Trio

NARS Douce France Eyeshadow Trio

NARS Douce France Eyeshadow Trio

NARS Douce France Eyeshadow Trio

NARS Douce France Eyeshadow Trio

NARS Douce France Eyeshadow Trio