Friday, February 20th, 2009

3.1 Phillip Lim | Ayako

Inspiration: The Fall 2009 collection took inspiration from the mythical spirit of rock and roll, while the hair and makeup was created to emulate Tao Okamoto’s look, a Japanese model in Phillip Lim’s Fall 2009 collection. Fused together, Phillip wanted the makeup look to mirror Tao’s mod style with a touch of rock n’ roll. With this in mind, Ayako created a look centered around “poetic mod-rock.”

Look: False lashes were placed on the outer half of the bottom lash line and was the central focus of the look. For an exaggerated effect, matte charcoal shadow was used with a wet eyeliner brush to draw lashes beneath, as if to create a shadow effect. “This is the poetic part of the look,” said Ayako. As a complement to the wispy lashes, shimmering pink and gold shadows covered the lids, while the lips were muted with concealer. Skin was made flawless with the newly formulated sheer matte foundation (NEW for Fall 2009) to counteract the sleepy look of the lengthy bottom lashes. Atop the matte skin, a gentle sweep of shimmer was added to cheekbones to catch the light.

Face: Apply NARS Concealer generously, to cover any imperfections. Use a small amount of NARS Sheer Matte Foundation (NEW for Fall 2009) to create even, beautiful skin. With NARS Yachiyo Brush, dust NARS Single Eyeshadow in Bombshell from apple of cheeks up to temples for a light shimmer without pigment

Eyes: Line lower lashes with NARS Glittler Pencil in Danceteria. Smudge with finger to bring out gold shine. Use NARS Eye Contour Brush to layer rose gold with golden flecks side of NARS Duo Eyeshadow in Silk Road (NEW for Fall 2009) over Danceteria. Apply frosted champagne side of NARS Duo Eyeshadow in Indian Summer (NEW for Fall 2009) over entire lid, blending up to brow. Cut a set of false eyelashes in half and apply to outer half of lower lash line. Apply NARS Larger than Life Volumizing Mascara (NEW for Fall 2009) to lower lashes. Wet NARS Liquid Eyeliner Brush and apply matte charcoal side of NARS Duo Eyeshadow in Brumes (NEW for Fall 2009), drawing lash shadows on outer half of lower lash line

Lips: Apply a generous amount of NARS Concelear to entire lip

See face chart… Continue reading →

Thursday, February 19th, 2009

François Nars | Marc Jacobs

After a 10 year hiatus, François Nars marked his return to the fashion runway in a larger than life way by leading the makeup direction for Marc Jacobs’ Autumn/Winter 2009 show. It included working with 65 models, and creating 65 different makeup looks. Nars’ unexpected return to fashion week can be attributed solely to Marc Jacobs. “We’ve known each other since the beginning so it was really fun to work with Marc again. I really love what he does,” said Nars.

Inspiration: The Marc Jacobs Fall 2009 collection paid homage to the New York night club scene of the 1970s and ‘80s. Drawing inspiration from these decades and the works of Sprouse, St. Laurent, and Halston, François Nars took into consideration each model’s individual beauty before creating a separate edgy look, reminiscent of the past but still very modern. “We are doing quite an eclectic look,” he said. The inspiration for diversity came from Nars’ book XRAY. “[Marc] wanted to keep that feeling,” said Nars, “the variety of looks, the same way we do the campaigns for NARS.” Overall, it was important that each girl look beautiful, even with strong theatrical looks. Much like the fashion, Nars emphasized having fun with makeup for the coming year, despite the times we live in- “It’s a good antidote.”

Look: Focusing on an edgy, night clubbing look, strong eyes and bold color were a major theme. Black shadow laid the foundation for creating the dramatic eye, to which the artists added cobalt blues, deep greens, bright purples, reds, fuchsias, and glitter. “There is a wide variety of color,” said Nars, “it’s whatever looks good on the girl.” For many of the models, porcelain skin was a key component, allowing the black eyes and bright colors to pop. “You want to play with makeup,” says Nars, “makeup is a great accessory – that is the message.”

I have to say that the Marc Jacobs show had some really fun, crazy and totally out-there looks, which is what made it one of my favorites this season! While Barbie’s show had the cuteness, Marc Jacobs has an edginess that I always look forward to seeing to during NYFW.

See several more images of the vibrant looks created at the Marc Jacobs show, plus some fun backstage shots! Continue reading →

Wednesday, February 18th, 2009

Hervé Léger | Diane Kendal

Inspiration: For Fall 2009, Hervé Léger drums to the beat of an urban tribe with a gradient palette of earth tones polished by rich shades of deep ebony. Makeup artist Diane Kendal drew inspiration from Helmut Newton photographs, using the concept of a brave warrior – strong and fierce. “The collection is very hard and sculpted so we wanted to keep the skin neutral and show strength through the eyebrows,” said Diane.

Look: The focus was a very strong eyebrow with glowy skin, communicating strength without being too bold. “We created very fresh, dewy skin by using the NARS Sheer Glow Foundation. It really allowed the skin’s natural highlights to shine through,” said Diane.

Face: Use NARSskin Hydrating Moisture Cream to moisturize. Apply NARS Concealer as needed, to cover any imperfections. Use a minimal amount of NARS Sheer Glow Foundation (NEW for Fall 2009) to even skin tone

Eyes: Brush brows to define natural shape. With NARS Single Eyeshadow in Bali, fill in brows. Brush again for even, natural look. Apply gentle dusting of NARS Single Eyeshadow in Sophia to entire lid, blending up towards brows for natural shading. Curl lashes with NARS Eyelash Curler

Lips: Apply NARS Lip Therapy Treatment in Rain to entire lip. Use NARS Concealer over Rain to mute color

See the face chart… Continue reading →