Temptalia

NYFW Fall 2009 – Backstage @ Tommy Hilfiger, Catherine Malandrino, Zac Posen

Christine — Fri, 20 Feb 2009 21:31:11 +0000

Tommy Hilfiger | Lisa Butler

Inspiration: “The look is based on a late 1970’s Lauren Hutton kind of makeup – very American, very glamorous but low key and natural.”

Eyes: Goldmine eye shadow – blended over the eyelids. Cocomotion Pigment – buffed into the crease of the eyelids . Powersurge Eye Kohl – placed along the lower lashline then smudged slightly with a brush to blend into the lashline. Prolash Mascara in Black – applied to top and bottom lashes .

Skin: Full Coverage Foundation – brushed onto the skin for a flawless face. Mineralize Skinfinish Natural – blended over the face to set foundation. Refined Golden Bronzer – applied lightly under cheek bones as a subtle contour. Intenso and Earth to Earth Mineralize Blush – blended together onto the apples of the cheeks for a soft glow.

Lips: Lip Conditioner mixed with Tickle Me Pink cream colour base or Virgin Isle cream colour base – pressed on with fingers for a sheer pink or coral lip.

See breakdowns for Catherine Malandrino and Zac Posen…

Catherine Malandrino | Tom Pecheux

Inspiration: “A modern interpretation of the optical effects of Man Ray.”

Eyes: Vex and Scene eye shadows – blended over eyelids, up past the crease of the lids and along the lower lashline to create a gray wash on the eyes. Print eye shadow – gently applied over gray shadow to add a blue tint. Blacktrack Fluidline – lining the top lashline and slightly extended past the outer corner of the eyes. Another thin black line was created by following the arch of the brow bone above the crease of the lid, and another following the lower lashline under the eyes.

Skin: Studio Sculpt SPF 15 Foundation – applied to the face for a natural but finished face. Invisible Set Powder – brushed over the entire face to set foundation.

Lips: Lip Erase in Dim – pressed onto lips to create a skin tone mouth.

Zac Posen | Lucia Pieroni

Inspiration:

NYFW Fall 2009 – Backstage @ Nanette Lepore, Doo.Ri, Proenza Schouler

Christine — Fri, 20 Feb 2009 16:29:09 +0000

Nanette Lepore | Polly Osmond

Inspiration: “The look uses shades of rose gold in a bohemian traveller sort of way.”

Eyes: Studio Sculpt Concealer – spread on lids to even out skin tone. Coffee Eye Pencil – Applied to the top and bottom lashline. Powersurge Eye Kohl – Applied to the inner rim of the eye to open up the eye. Brassy Fluidline – Applied to eyelid and under eye to create a smoky look. Rose Gold Pigment – Applied on eyelids and under eye. Plushlash Plushblack Mascara – Applied to the top and bottom lashes to separate and elongate lashes. Lingering Eye Brows – Applied to eyebrows to create fullness.

Skin: Face & Body Foundation – Applied to face as a sheer base. Laid Back Blushcreme – Applied to apples of cheeks to give a rosy glow. Antique Rose Cream Colour Base – Applied over blushcreme to create a highlighted effect. Invisible Set Powder – Applied to the t-zone to matti fy.

Lips: Diva Lipstick – blotted onto lips with finger to create a stained look. Brassy Fluidline – Applied to the center of lips.

See breakdowns and face charts for Doo.Ri and Proenza Schouler…

Doo.Ri | Tom Pecheux

Inspiration: “The look is graphic and powerful but the shimmer makes it a bit glamorous. She is made up but in a very young way.”

Eyes: Invisible Set Powder – applied to lids as a base. A blend of Black Tied eye shadow and Pearl Reflects Glitter – drawn along top lashline in a wedge shape tapered at inner corners and thick at the outer corners of the eyes. Blacktrack Fluidline – brushed onto top lashline for definition .

Skin: Studio Sculpt SPF 15 Foundation – applied to the face in shades matching natural skin tone. Prep + Prime Powder – blended over foundation to give skin a natural matte finish.

Lips: Studio Finish Concealer mixed with Black Lipmix – patted onto lips for a sheer gray mouth allowing some of the natural lip colour to show through.

Proenza Schouler | Diane Kendal

Inspiration: “Its a worn in kind of look. The creamy brown eye makeup has a bit of a 90’s feel to it. Its giving the girls a coolness without glamorizing the makeup too much.”

Eyes: Dark Brown Cream Colour Base – applied more intensely along the lashline and eyelid crease, then blended over the lids, up toward the brow and toward outer corners of the eyes. Blacktrack Fluidline – used to fill in the top and bottom lashlines. Clear Brow Set – Combed through brows.

Skin: Studio Sculpt SPF 15 Foundation mixed with a M

NYFW Fall 2009 – Behnaz Sarafpour, Rodarte, Matthew Williamson

Christine — Fri, 20 Feb 2009 02:32:07 +0000

Behnaz Sarafpour | Gordon Espinet

Inspiration: “The look is not made up but quite perfected, deliberately perfected.”

Eyes: Smolder Eye Kohl – drawn along top and bottom lashlines and water line theN slightly smudged with a brush. Carbon Eye Shadow – blended into lashline to set eye kohl.

Skin: Studio Sculpt Concealer – applied where needed to even out and perfect the complexion. Mineralize SkinFinish Natural – blended into the skin for a natural flawless face. Emphasize sculpt and Shape powder – highlighting the tops of cheekbones.

Lips: Lip erase — applied to moisturized lips to create a skin toned mouth.

See breakdowns for Rodarte and Matthew Williamson…

Rodarte | James Kaliardos

Inspiration: “The look is a stone face. The idea behind it is sculpture – to deconstruct and reconstruct the face in an abstract way emphasizing each part.”

Eyes: Scene Eye shadow – placed in a thick line in the crease and tapered toward the outer portion of the eye. Warm Light Sculpting powder – diffused from inner corners of the crease of the eye lids and pulled out in a linear shape straight toward the temples to the hairline. Frozen White Pigment – placed precisely in the inner corners of the eyes.

Skin: Pure White Paintstick – blended into skin for a pale white base under the eyes and wrapped up toward the temples in a “c” shape . Frozen White Pigment – blended over paintstick for a satin frost . Warm light sculpting powder – brushed from under the cheek bone up to the temples in at sharp angle for severe contouring.

Lips: Dark Brown cream colour base, Polished Ivory, Pure white and Black black paint sticks – blended together to create a stone gray/brown lip. Frozen white pigment – highlighting the bow of the lips.

Matthew Williamson | Charlotte Tilbury

Inspiration: “The look is very done but in a neutral way – she’s a chic early 90’s woman.”

Eyes: Knight Divine, Brun, and Print Eye shadows – buffed over lids up toward the brows and along the lower lashline in an oval shape. Plushblack Plushlash Mascara – applied to top lashes only.

Skin: Matte Bronze bronzing powder – applied in a sheer wash to contour the cheekbones.

Lips: Stripdown lip pencil –precisely lining the lips. Half and Half Lipstick – brushed on to fill in the lips.

New York Fashion Week Fall 2009 – Donna Karan, Caroline Herrera, Luca Luca

Christine — Wed, 18 Feb 2009 17:28:10 +0000

Donna Karan | Charlotte Tilbury

Inspiration: “The look is inspired by 1930’s photographs – sepia tone shading but with a slick gloss on the eyes to make it modern.”

Eyes: Dusk cream colour base – blended through crease, over lids and along lower lash line to create shading and depth. Copper Walnut PRO Gloss mixed with a bit of Reflects Gold – applied from lid to brow for a wet look on the eyes.

Face: Fast Play lipstick – blended onto the apples of the cheeks. Pearl cream colour base – swept over cheek bone, bridge of nose, and bow of lips to highlight.

Lips: Half and half lipstick – lightly patted onto the lips.

See breakdowns from Caroline Herrera and Luca Luca…

Caroline Herrera | Diane Kendal

Inspiration: “The look is about beautiful fresh skin, enhancing nat ural highlights where light hits the face.”

Eyes: Deep Dark Pro pigment – blended into crease of the eyelid, around the outer corner of the eyes and along the lower lashline. Studio Touch-up stick concealer – buffed onto eyelids as a base. White Pigment-glazed over the eyelids.

Face: Studio Sculpt SPF 15 Foundation – applied in a sheer layer one shade lighter than nat ural skin tone. Hand Finish Mineralize Blush – blended on to the apples of the cheeks. White Frost Pigment – touched onto cheek bones to highlight.

Lips: Twig lipstick – feat hered onto lips with a lip brush. Local Colour Dazzleglass – applied in the center of the lips.

Luca Luca | James Kaliardos

Inspiration:

New York Fashion Week Fall 2009 – DKNY, Diane Von Furstenberg, Tuleh

Christine — Tue, 17 Feb 2009 14:41:54 +0000

DKNY | Charlotte Tilbury

Inspiration: “The look is inspired by the late 50’s – she is a modern take on a punky 50’s school girl.”

Eyes: Black Black chromaline – lining the top lashline in a thick rectangular shape extended out past the outer corner of the eyes. Ebony eye pencil – applied to the waterline. Black prolash mascara – applied to top lashes only. Fling eye brows – drawn into brows to slightly define the shape and add a bit of an arch.

Face: Face and Body foundation – smoothed on to even out skin tone in a sheer application. Blot powder – brushed over the t-zone to diminish extra shine. Laid Back blushcreme – blended high on the cheek bones.

Lips:: Laid Back blushcreme – patted on to lips for a sheer stain.

See breakdowns for Diane Von Furstenberg and Tuleh…

Diane Von Furstenberg | James Kaliardos

Inspiration: “A woman who’s home is everywhere – nomad chic.”

Eyes: Soba eye shadow – blended over lids, up past crease, out toward temples and along lower lashline. Pearl cream colour base – to highlight the inner corner of the eyes. Pro Barelash – foundation toned product applied with a mascara wand combed through brows to diminish natural hair colour.

Face: Studio Sculpt spf 15 foundation – applied as a minimal base to the face. Pro sculpting powder – blended under cheek bones and up toward temples to contour. Pearl cream colour base – touched on the high plane of the cheek bone for highlight.

Lips: Lip Erase – applied in a sheer layer to pale down the lips. Sculpt and Shape in Bone Beige – applied with a lip brush to line the mouth.

Tuleh | Polly Osmond

Inspiration: “She’s a 1930s parisian with a soft smokey eye and mauve lip.”

Eyes: Copperplate eye shadow – applied heavier toward the lash lines and diffused up toward the brows for soft smoky eyes. Stud brow pencil – drawn in a thin line to elongate brows.

Face: Face and Body foundation – applied to the face in tones matching skin for a natural dewy look.

Lips:: dark side and dark knight lipsticks – pressed on to the lips with fingers for a mauve stain.

New York Fashion Week – Breakdowns for Adam, ThreeAsFour, Ruffian

Christine — Tue, 17 Feb 2009 03:41:34 +0000

Adam | Romy Soleimani

Inspiration: “The look is inspired by japanese water colour – the way colours mix, blend and diffuse when you mix them with water.”

Eyes: Beautiful Iris eye shadow – swept lightly over eyelids. Cornflower Blue pigment – applied in a sheer layer over lids to add depth. Teal pigment – blended in a thick diffused line along lower lashline. Tealo pencil – drawn along lower lashline.

Face: Love Rock mineralize blush duo mixed with White Frost Pigment – brushed high on cheekbones almost up to lashline for a pink watercolour haze.

Lips: Dim lip erase – blotted on to lips with fingers to slightly diminish natural lip colour.

See breakdowns for ThreeAsFour and Ruffian…

ThreeAsFour | Gordon Espinet

Inspiration: “The idea is to create a look with an other worldly glow.”

Eyes: Pearl cream colour base mixed with emphasize sculpting powder blended onto eyelids and under eyebrows to highlight.

Face: Mineralize skinfinish natural – applied in the lightest tones possible to even out the skin. Pearl cream colour base mixed with emphasize sculpting powder brushed over cheek bones, bridge of the nose, chin and just above the lips to highlight.

Lips:: Tinted Lip Conditioner in soothing beige – patted on to lips.

Ruffian | James Kaliardos

Inspiration: “The look is inspired by carolyn bessette, it’s young and confident.”

Eyes: Light Sweep sculpting powder – blended down from the crease over the eyelids. Dazzleblack mascara – delicately swept onto the top lashes.

Face: Studio Sculpt SPF15 foundation – applied to the face as a base. Light Sweep and Accentuate sculpting powder – countouring the cheek bones and temples in an angular shape. Emphasize sculpting powder – blended into cheek bones for highlight. Loose Prep+Prime powder – brushed on to set the face.

Lip: Cherry lip pencil – applied first to fill in the lips Ruffian Red Liptick – created by m•a•c in celebration of Ruffian’s fall/winter 09 collection. This lipstick was painted onto the lips with a soft diffused edge.