Wednesday, April 6th, 2011

Guerlain Mitsouko (140) Rouge Automatique
Guerlain Mitsouko (140) Rouge Automatique

Guerlain Mitsouko (140) Rouge Automatique

Guerlain Mitsouko (140) Rouge Automatique ($35.00 for 0.12 oz.) is a muted peach shimmered orange with hints of pink. It’s semi-sheer, which means that your natural lip color will play a larger role in the way the lipstick actually looks. On my lips, it looks like a soft, rosy coral with a frost finish. The orange hue seems to get lost when I wear it. I also felt that between sheer color and the frosted shimmer, the texture wasn’t as smooth; I could feel the shimmer particles when I pressed my lips together.

Guerlain’s description of the Rouge Automatique line describes the color as non-opaque, light, and luminous, so while this may be on the sheerer side, it still seems in line with the range–it definitely gave a visible color difference when worn, but this shade seems to embody what Guerlain described as “luminous, clear and pure color.”  (Nothing in Guerlain’s description of the new formula would make me think these are rich, pigmented lipsticks.)  I did feel I had to apply more than your average lipstick to get the color pay off as swatched, which is why it lost a couple of points.

my thoughts on the formula: Rouge Automatique lipsticks tend to have a very creamy, smooth consistency without being thick (in fact, I’d describe them as thin). They glide on with ease, and the majority of shades seem to deposit semi-opaque to opaque color. Mitsouko, however, is one of the sheerest shades I’ve tried (out of five!) and wear time is three to four hours. Wear for darker shades ranges from six to eight hours, while light to medium shades from four to six hours. It’s an excellent alternative to the luxury Rouge G lipstick–the formulas are comparable (and certainly so with a $11 price difference!), while the packaging gives up the luxury heft of Rouge G, it makes up for in the practicality. It’s a creamy, moisturizing, long-wearing formula with the subtle nuances and finishes I expect from Guerlain.

The Glossover

P
product

Mitsouko

C+
I've been like the the Rouge Automatique line quite a bit, and though I think this color is lovely (and very much a shade I personally gravitate towards), it isn't as smooth as some of the other shades I've tried. I think it's due to the frostier finish combined with the sheerer color that emphasizes that aspect.

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Friday, April 1st, 2011

Guerlain Champs-Elysees (165) Rouge Automatique Lipstick
Guerlain Champs-Elysees (165) Rouge Automatique Lipstick

Guerlain Rouge Automatique

Guerlain Champs-Elysees (165) Rouge Automatique Lipstick ($35.00 for 0.12 oz.) is a raspberry pink-red with a naturally semi-glossy finish and soft fuchsia micro-shimmer. Rouge Automatique is a new lipstick range slated for an April release with 25 shades (all permanent), and each shade is named after various Guerlain creations and places.

I wanted to try a deeper/darker shade first to test out the wear (and also to get started off on the right foot–with a more decadent color). I put Champs-Elysees through an all-day test that included drinking Starbucks and an Italian dinner of calamari fritti and fettuccine alfredo (oil + cream = known enemies of long-wearing lip color). It held up spectacularly! By the time I got home from dinner, I had been wearing it for six hours and didn’t feel the need to reapply. Some of the glossiness wore off, but there was still some reflective sheen, and the color was semi-opaque around the inner area of the lower lip, but overall, it looked remarkably well.

It does not have any of the usual hallmarks of a long-wearing lip color–it’s not clingy, drying, or matte. Instead, it is creamy (but thin, not thick at all), and feels a bit like lip balm when initially applied. It’s moisturizing, too, which is something one wouldn’t expect from a long-wearing lip color. It is amazing how lip color technology has improved so much in the past few years that clingy, drying, and painful-to-wear long-wearing products are being phased out. Deeper/richer shades like Champs-Elysees last six to eight hours, while lighter shades last four to five hours.

Rouge Automatique is really comfortable to wear, and the color range is definitely reminiscent (will be reviewing more shades soon) of the higher priced Rouge G line-up. The Rouge Gs wear a touch better and are slightly more moisturizing than the four shades I’ve tried from the Rouge Automatique line, but the formulas are certainly similar. Guerlain lipsticks are violet-scented but I found the scent rather subtle with these.

To open Rouge Automatique, one slides down a square pull, and the lid pulls down and the lipstick pushes out. I beat up mine quite a bit, probably sliding it down fifty times or more, to test the durability of the mechanism. It didn’t show any signs of catching or wear. It’s solid enough that it shouldn’t slide down on its own–it requires enough pressure and push from a third party that I wouldn’t expect it to open up in your bag. The slider also needs to pushed own about a quarter of the way before the lid pulls downwards enough to reveal the lipstick, and it’s quite difficult to exert enough pressure to push the lid (without pushing the slider) to open the lipstick.

If you’ve had issues with lipstick caps coming off and exposing tubes in your bag, these might remedy that problem! After opening and closing the tube so often, I feel good saying that I also don’t see the lipstick catching on the lid accidentally or smooshing on the lid if you closed it too quickly. I did this many, many times and the lipstick stayed in perfect condition.

The only downsides to the packaging are the lack of the product name (just number) on the tube itself and lack of heft. It is lighter than the KissKiss Lipsticks (by about 5-7 grams), and the tube feels like plastic (and sounds like it). I tried to catch a magnet on the Rouge Automatique casing, but I had no luck–but I was able to feel the magnetic pull when I slid it against both the KissKiss and Rouge G lipstick cases.

It launches later this April at select Saks, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, and Bergdorf Goodman stores.

The Glossover

P
product

Champs-Elysees

A
It’s an excellent alternative to the luxury Rouge G lipstick–the formulas are comparable (and certainly so with a $11 price difference!), while the packaging gives up the luxury heft of Rouge G, it makes up for in the practicality. It’s a creamy, moisturizing, long-wearing formula with the subtle nuances and finishes I expect from Guerlain.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Wednesday, March 23rd, 2011


Guerlain Rouge Automatique Launches

“The 21st-century Rouge Automatique is created for a mischievous and stylish woman. In one flick of a finger, she reveals the lipstick that will embellish her smile and make her glow with radiance.” — Olivier Échaudemaison, Guerlain Creative Director

While searching through the immense Guerlain archives, Olivier Échaudemaison found a small Art Deco wonder created in 1936 that captured his attention: the original “Rouge Automatique.” Though the legendary lipstick’s craftsmanship and hand finishes were commonplace at the time, the lipstick packaging was a revolution in itself with its single hand push to reveal luxurious color. Olivier now reinterprets Rouge Automatique for the 21st century – re-innovating the piece as the first lipstick without a cap and with an application technique requiring only a single hand.

With “Ne m’oubliez pas” (Forget me not) in 1870, Aimé Guerlain was the first to create the wax lipstick in a gold plated tube – inspired by a cylinder used to mold candles. The new Rouge Automatique builds on this heritage with a lipstick encased in a sleek, structural, gold chamber. Simple, clever and coveted. An elegant accessory steeped in history. And featuring an innovative new formula with a fine, sensual texture that glides over lips to melt on the mouth like second skin…

  • Second-Skin Texture: Sensory oils + waxes with different fusion points gradually liquefy during application, depending on temperature of the lips. The result is a soft sensory film that becomes one with skin, offering impeccable coverage that is neither too oily nor too thick. A lipstick so comfortable that you’ll forget your wearing it.
  • Boosted Colours: Cristal Pigment is a non-opaque pigment that makes it possible to obtain luminous, clear and pure colors. The result is unprecedented light and luminous beiges and pinks that feature tailor-made shine with made-to-measure sheerness.
  • Long-Lasting Hold: Offering exceptional shine, stay-put and feather-proof color, the formula utilizes a complex of oil and resin that act in harmony to accentuate shine and hold. The oil is rich, not sticky, with high refraction power.

There are 25 shades with legendary names, alluding to the Guerlain spirit and creations. Each shade retails for $35.

Unforgettable Beiges

  • 100 Apres l’Ondee
  • 101 Voilette de Madame
  • 102 Ne M’Oubliez Pas
  • 103 Chant d’Aromes
  • 104 Jicky
  • 105 Vol de Nuit

Passionate Reds

  • 120 Coque d’Or
  • 121 Rouge d’Enfer122 Liu
  • 123 Habit Rouge
  • 124 Samsara
  • 125 Vega

Flamboyant Oranges

  • 140 Mitsouko
  • 141 Quand Vient l’Ete
  • 142 Fleur de Feu
  • 143 Nahema

Loving Pinks

  • 160 Bal de Mai
  • 161 Cherry Blossom
  • 162 Bloom of Rose
  • 163 Rose Bengale
  • 164 Chamade
  • 165 Champs-Elysees
  • 166 Shalimar
  • 167 Guet-Apens
  • 168 L’Heure Bleue

availability: April 2011 at select locations of Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and at Bergdorf Goodman

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Friday, February 25th, 2011

Guerlain Rouge Automatique to Launch

In April, Guerlain will launch Rouge Automatique, a 25-color range of lipstick. Each shade is named for a Guerlain fragrance from the past, present, or future. Olivier Echaudemaison, Guerlain’s creative director, stated that it’s supposed to be somewhere between Guerlain’s Rouge G and Kiss Kiss Lipstick Lines. It’s texture is to be a balance of shiny and long-lasting (3 hours), have a “second skin effect” such that it becomes liquid when it touches the lips. The pigments are encapsulated in glass, which are supposed to make the colors truer and more vivid. Though no price was listed, it sounds like it will be in the upper $30s range (KissKiss being $31 and Rouge G being $46).

Source: WWD