Monday, February 13th, 2012

By Angela, Cosmetic Chemist

One of the leading brains behind beauty, Angela is an industry-renowned Cosmetic Chemist with over 11 years training and experience in developing cosmetics and toiletries. Having been immersed in the wondrous beauty world from an early age, she was instantly captivated by the rituals, the artistry and the allure. This initial intrigue soon developed into an unequivocal beauty obsession partly fuelled by teenage skin dilemmas but also stemming from a deep seated creativity and desire for self expression. This was quickly followed by a behind the scenes role in new product development where she formulated make up and skin care for an array of global brands.

Still not content with the industry offerings, especially those for women of colour, she still indulges herself with customised formulations to suit her specific beauty needs! Despite her wealth of scientific knowledge Angela takes what she calls a “feelosophical” approach to the industry. So whilst analysing ingredients and technologies, addressing safety fears and generally aiming to reveal the truth she never loses sight of the one essential thing about beauty and that is appreciating how it simply makes you feel! Check out her blog Beauty Feelosophy!


NARS Orgasm Illuminator

Complexion SOS: Skin Brightening Solutions

As the days grow shorter, the nights grow longer, and the  sun becomes but a distant memory, the skin can start to look a little lackluster.  For many of us around the globe, especially women of colour, maintaining a bright complexion, combating hyperpigmentation, and maintaining an even skin tone is a problem all year round!

There are many lightening, brightening and illuminating products out there, but here are just a few of my top solutions for getting through the dull winter months:

Exfoliate but don’t over do it!

One of the easiest and quickest ways to rejuvenate the skin is to remove some of the outermost skin cells that make up the surface of the skin. This also helps to clear hyperpigmentation and speed up the turnover of new skin cells being produced.

Skin takes up to 24 days to create new surface cells, which are, by this time dead and rich in keratin, then about three days for these skin cells to naturally shed. An at home microdermabrasion once a week like Kiehl’s Epidermal Retexturising Microdermabrasion ($41.00) will help to achieve instant radiance (I get compliments on my skin every time I use it!). The scrub uses fine particles of alumina as the main exfoliant along with diatomaceous earth, combined in a creamy emollient base to prevent it feeling too harsh or drying out the skin.

However as easy and amazing as it is, it is still important to remember that those dead skin cells are still there for a reason:  to protect your skin from the elements! Don’t over do it and always make sure you moisturize and use sunscreen after you exfoliate, especially if you suffer from dry skin or sensitive skin!

Vitamin C boost!

Vitamin C is an effective ingredient for brightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation. However, it quickly breaks down when used in certain formulations, therefore adding the pure powder yourself will ensure you get the real benefits.

Many people rave about Philosophy’s Turbo Booster C Powder ($35.00) which is (nearly) pure ascorbic acid, which is the stabilized powder form of Vitamin C.  A cheaper way to get your fix is from your local health food store where you will also find Ascorbic Acid powder ($6.95). Dissolve a small amount every day in water, add a bit of glycerine if you can find it in your local chemist as otherwise it can be a bit tingly, then apply directly to the face or with your moisturiser or serum. Be on the look out for 100% ascorbic acid without fillers though!  It is a great antioxidant that helps to protect the skin but that is whole other post in itself!

Fake it with illuminators and highlighters!

Adding a touch of pearl to your bare skin, mixed with foundation, or on key areas of the face to capture the light is a quick-fix way to bring your complexion to life.

For an all-over radiance, NARS Orgasm Illuminator ($30.00) is the type of product that’s great to use even in the day time. I use it mixed in my foundation and on a dull, sleep-deprived day, this is my saving grace. The great thing about this is that it works on all skin types. Products like MAC Strobe Cream or Benefit That Gal or Girl Meets Pearl are great on fair skins but on darker skin barely make a difference.

To enhance contours, an old favorite of mine is Benefit Moon Beam ($26.00)! In the beginning, I wasn’t sure the color, looking at the bottle, would work well for darker skin, but it does and it is a true classic–again great on all skin tones! Other highly recommended products are NARS Copacabana, but this is only really good for the night and has to be used very carefully on dark skin tones to avoid looking like a ghost!

Glow from within!

No discussion on complexion would be complete without a mention about diet and lifestyle so three important ingredients are vitamins (especially B, C and E), water, and sleep!

Thursday, December 15th, 2011

By Angela, Cosmetic Chemist

One of the leading brains behind beauty, Angela is an industry-renowned Cosmetic Chemist with over 11 years training and experience in developing cosmetics and toiletries. Having been immersed in the wondrous beauty world from an early age, she was instantly captivated by the rituals, the artistry and the allure. This initial intrigue soon developed into an unequivocal beauty obsession partly fuelled by teenage skin dilemmas but also stemming from a deep seated creativity and desire for self expression. This was quickly followed by a behind the scenes role in new product development where she formulated make up and skin care for an array of global brands.

Still not content with the industry offerings, especially those for women of colour, she still indulges herself with customised formulations to suit her specific beauty needs! Despite her wealth of scientific knowledge Angela takes what she calls a “feelosophical” approach to the industry. So whilst analysing ingredients and technologies, addressing safety fears and generally aiming to reveal the truth she never loses sight of the one essential thing about beauty and that is appreciating how it simply makes you feel! Check out her blog Beauty Feelosophy!


Rose hip by die.tine

Simply Beautiful: Pure Rose Hip Seed Oil

I would not call myself a naturalist, as I know that both natural and synthetic ingredients have their place in cosmetics. However, on occasion, less seems to be more and that is when I go back to basics by using simple ingredients that cut straight to the heart of my skin care needs. Rose Hip Seed Oil or Rosa Mosqueta (Rosa Affinis Rubiginosa) is one such ingredient so full of skin nourishing goodness that it has earned itself a coveted spot in my daily beauty routine! I keep mine in the refrigerator and use the pure oil every night before bed by applying it before my moisturiser for a little extra skin rejuvenating boost.

What is rose hip seed oil?

A beautifying wild rose, with fruit rich in vitamin C, leaves and petals used for refreshing infusions and seeds that produce a uniquely nourishing plant oil – and that’s were this fabulous product I so love comes into play!

So, what’s to love?

I use it for its moisturising and skin smoothing effect but there is a lot of science to also show Rosehip seed oil has many special qualities:

  • Moisturizing
  • Anti-wrinkle
  • Skin smoothing
  • Diminishes scars
  • Helps fade stretch marks
  • Healing
  • Treats sun burn and age marks
  • Helps regenerate skin cells
  • Anti-inflammatory
  • Rich in vitamins, Omega 3 & 6

You might be surprised to learn that I love this product despite having oily skin, since conventional wisdom has taught us oily skin types to stick to “oil free” products only. Although this may be true some of the time, it is possible to achieve a balance between effective cleansing, which can undoubtedly strip the skin of some of those essential natural oils and good moisturizer. I wouldn’t recommend it for use in the day time under make up but the oil is quite light in texture, absorbs very easily and has a low spot causing probability so it can be used on acne-prone skin. For acne sufferers, I would recommend treating the problem skin first, and once you reach that point of clearer skin, use this along with a few facials to help deal with any residual scarring.

The Secret in the Science

The secret to how Rosehip seed oil works of course lies in the science! It contains a very high percentage of Linoleic, Linolenic and Oleic acids. These are important fats that ensure the vitality of your natural skin cells, and this gives Rosehip seed oil a regenerating and soothing power. Rose hip seed oil also contains Tretinoin, a very close relative of Vitamin A, which gives the skin a rejuvenating and scar healing benefit. Results are immediate for smoothing and improvements to the general complexion, but for scars, as you would imagine, it is not an instant fix so real results will take some time.

Where to find it?

You can find Rosehip seed oil at local health food stores, such as Aromantic.co.uk, iherb.com, and in some skin care products (like Liz Earl’s Super Skin COncentrate).  Alternatively, if a pure oil is not for you, look out for Rose hip seed Oil, Rosa Canina or Rosa Rubignosa in your product ingredient lists to benefit from this simple yet truly amazing beauty elixir!