Monday, May 6th, 2013

Chanel Metamorphose (44) Les 4 Ombres Eyeshadow Quad
Chanel Metamorphose (44) Les 4 Ombres Eyeshadow Quad

Chanel Metamorphose (44) Les 4 Ombres Eyeshadow Quad ($59.00 for 0.04 oz.) is a new and limited edition palette exclusive to Chanel.com from their summer collection. It features four shades of eyeshadows in varying finishes that can be “applied dry for subtle shading, or dampened for more intense colour, all with long-wearing results.” Outside of the U.S., this quad and its formula will be very familiar, while those within the U.S. will note that the shape, texture, and feel of the formula is different. This is, essentially, the baked formula, compared with the traditional power eyeshadow that we typically see in the quads here in the U.S.

Metamorphose (44) #1 is a medium-dark, cool-toned green with a hint of blue/teal and a frosted sheen. It had semi-sheer color payoff applied dry, and it was more opaque applied damp, but it could have applied more evenly and smoothly. Tom Ford Emerald Lust is a touch darker. MAC Sweet & Sour is greener. Dior Garden Pastels #5 is very slightly warmer/greener. Tarina Tarantino Violet Storm is cooler-toned.

Metamorphose (44) #2 is a cool-toned, green-tinged, pale gray. It looks more like a mint green in the pan, but it comes off rather grayish when I applied it. The color payoff is very sheer when used dry, and then it is decent to good in opacity when applied damp. Giorgio Armani #10 is more metallic. Dior Cruise is similar. is a bit darker (and a cream product).

Metamorphose (44) #3 is a lightly warmed-over yellowy-green with a frosted sheen. It was sheer to semi-sheer when applied dry, and it was more opaque when applied damp. Too Faced Fantasy Island #2 is more metallic but very close in color. bareMinerals Wicked is more intense, greener. Wet ‘n’ Wild Comfort Zone #6 is much darker, greener. MAC Juxt is brighter and much warmer. MAC Valiant is very similar.

Metamorphose (44) #4 is a deep navy blue with cool undertones and a satiny finish. It had decent pigmentation when applied dry, but it was much more intense when applied damp. Urban Decay Evidence is a more pearled sheen. MAC Naval Blue is more frosted. MAC Lunar is darker. bareMinerals Climax is more pearled. Guerlain Les Ombres de Nuit #3 is darker–more blackened. Make Up For Ever #81 is darker.

Generally, the baked eyeshadow quads are less intense and pigmented than the regular powder eyeshadow quads. To an extent, I would agree. These really have to used damp to see decent color payoff, as when they are applied dry, they are subtle and on the powdery side. From my own experiences, I tend to prefer the powder eyeshadows over baked ones as well for both blending, wear, and color payoff. Metamorphose had faded noticeably when I checked at the eight-hour mark.  The texture was always on the drier, powdery side, and when applied damp, it didn’t blend out as easily as Chane’s best eyeshadows do.

P.S. — 0.04 oz.? Ouchhh! I know that baked eyeshadows tend to weigh less, but whoa does that seem crazy small. They look like a normal-sized eyeshadow, all domed and the like, but the weight is (somewhat) concerning.

The Glossover

palette

Metamorphose (44)

B-
From my own experiences, I tend to prefer the powder eyeshadows over baked ones as well for both blending, wear, and color payoff. Metamorphose doesn't make a strong case for the baked formula.

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Tuesday, December 25th, 2012

Chanel Raffinement Eyeshadow Quad
Chanel Raffinement Eyeshadow Quad

Chanel Raffinement Eyeshadow Quad ($58.00 for 0.24 oz.) is described as a palette of “rich mauve, pearly pink beige, shimmering lilac, and deep eggplant.”  It’s a new for spring but will be joining the permanent range.

The first shade (top, left) is a medium-dark brown with hints of plum/mauve and a frosted finish. It had nice color payoff, and it applied smoothly and evenly. Chanel Variation has a darker brown. MAC Smut is a richer version of this shade. Urban Decay Stray Dog is similar, perhaps a bit warmer.

The second shade (top, right) is a pale, peachy beige with a frosted sheen and subtle warm undertones. The pigmentation was lovely, and it applied nicely. MAC A Natural Flirt is warmer, more shimmer. MAC Double Feature #5 is similar but less frosted. Urban Decay Sellout is similar–a little darker. Illamasqua Slink is a touch warmer.

The third shade (bottom, left) is a medium-dark cognac brown–a little orange-red to it but very, very subtle and slight, so it doesn’t take on an overly warm coloring. It had fantastic color payoff, and it was really soft, finely-milled, and smooth when applied. Too Faced Hot Cocoa is lighter. Illamasqua Focus is a cream product, and it is redder. Tom Ford Platinum is similar but a cream product. Urban Decay Wreckage is less red-toned.

The fourth shade (bottom, right) is a deep, dark reddened brown with a satiny sheen–just a step or two above matte. This shade packed quite the punch of pigment; really don’t need much to define the crease at alL! It blended out easily, which is absolutely necessary with anything that’s very pigmented and/or dark in color. Make Up For Ever #162 is matte, slightly richer/more intense. theBalm Presto is a bit darker. MAC Embark is matte and browner. Chanel Ebloui is more shimmery, a touch lighter, and a cream. It compares favorably with Tom Ford Enchanted.

I can see some looking at this quad and going, “Borrrrring!” and others reaching for it all the time. That’s the problem with basics and essentials–they tend to be kind of boring, but they work well and are still shades that most core collections have. I think it is wearable on both cooler and warmer complexions, and the colors offer a good range of light/dark for contrast.  The depth and richness of the darkest shade makes this quad as wearable for work as it does for evening, because it’s so rich, it can really add definition, darkness, and general smokiness for an evening look.

The quality of the quad is lovely, with all four shades having great color payoff, soft, smooth textures, and tip-top wear of eight hours (without a primer) and no signs of fading or creasing.  There was only a very, very slight excess of powder in a couple of shades but so slight–it’s really being nit-picky. All in all, while dupable, a very wearable, easy-to-use quad that will be a nice travel pick as well as a go-to for anyone who is need of more work-friendly shades.

The Glossover

palette

Raffinement

A
All in all, while dupable, a very wearable, easy-to-use quad that will be a nice travel pick as well as a go-to for anyone who is need of more work-friendly shades.

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Saturday, November 10th, 2012

Chanel Variation Eyeshadow Quad
Chanel Variation Eyeshadow Quad

Chanel Variation Eyeshadow Quad ($58.00 for 0.24 oz.) is a cool-toned palette that featuers shades of “light rose, silver-grey, deep purple, light shimmering plum.” It will be released sometime this month online and at Chanel retailers, and it joins the permanent range (according to the press release).

The first shade is a pale pink with a soft, frosted finish. It is nicely pigmented, but it does have a very slightly powdery texture. Chanel Harmonie du Soir is yellower. theBalm Matt Chung is similar but matte in finish. Dior Aurora is frostier. MAC Young Venus is more shimmery. Dior Garden Pastels is similar.

The second shade is a dirty gray-brown with a frosted finish. It had so-so color payoff, but it was definitely on the sheer side. When I wore this shade, it gave me some trouble with fall out during wear. NARS Vent Glace is warmer. Buxom Pug appears darker, as it is more opaque. theBalm Selfish is browner. NARS Grand Palais is similar, a bit warmer. Wet ‘n’ Wild Comfort Zone is lighter.

The third shade is a medium-dark brown with reddish undertones. It had decent pigmentation, but it was powdery. It is best applied patted against the lid. MAC Smut is similar. theBalm Presto is a bit redder. Urban Decay Barlust is shimmery. Urban Decay Busted is a touch darker.

The last shade is a burgundy-purple with a pearly sheen. It had great color payoff, and it applied evenly and smoothly. MAC Round Midnight is more purple, less red. MAC Rich Core is more shimmery but the color is dead-on. Make Up For Ever #311 is very close in color, but the finish is more frosted.

Like Intuition, this quad is a mix of more basic shades, but the quality is not there across all the shades, so what could have been a classic, go-to palette, ends up looking weak when it’s so dupable.  All four shades were finely-milled and extremely easy to blend, but the pigmentation was too varied (ha!) and the fall out from the taupe shade was disappointing.  When I wore this palette together, it lasted eight hours with no fading or creasing without a primer.

The Glossover

palette

Variation

B
Like Intuition, this quad is a mix of more basic shades, but the quality is not there across all the shades, so what could have been a classic, go-to palette, ends up looking weak when it's so dupable.

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Friday, November 9th, 2012

Chanel Intuition Eyeshadow Quad
Chanel Intuition Eyeshadow Quad

Chanel Intuition Eyeshadow Quad ($58.00 for 0.24 oz.) is a warm-toned palette that features shades of “light pink, gold, chocolate brown, and brown-grey.” It will be released sometime this month online and at Chanel retailers, and it joins the permanent range (according to the press release).

The first shade is a soft pink-beige with a frosted finish. It had good color payoff, and it was fairly smooth. Urban Decay Freebird is pinker. Bobbi Brown Black Sparkle is similar in color but has a sparkly finish. MAC Hush is more matte but close in color. Urban Decay Sin is more metallic.

The second shade is a yellowed gold with gold sparkles. You could and feel the glittery bits in this shade, which gave it a sheerer appearance, and it made it difficult to apply. I had a great deal of fall out during application as well as during wear with this shade. Cinderella Gus Gus is brighter, yellower, less orange. Milani Gold Dust is more orange. Tarina Tarantino Mr. Gold is slightly less orange. Bare Escentuals Remix is yellower. Chanel Blazing Gold is a smidgen yellower. MAC Goldmine is more metallic.

The third shade is a subtly warm-toned dark brown with bronze shimmer. It had good color payoff, though the texture was a touch dry. Cinderella Jaq is darker. Urban Decay Muse is darker and more red-toned. Make Up For Ever #15 is warmer. Bobbi Brown Chocolate is similar.

The fourth shade is a warm-toned, copper-brown with a shimmer-sheen finish. It had nice pigmentation, and the texture was a smidgen powdery but applied really smoothly on the eye. MAC Mulch is a touch lighter. MAC Havana is similar, perhaps a little darker (when used wet). Benefit Dandy Brandy is similar. MAC Roasted Chestnut is comparable.

The gold is particularly troublesome, and at this price point, harder to accept as-is; the sparkly finish resulted in noticeable fall out during wear, and it made application more difficult, as it had to be packed on and worked into the skin to smooth it out.  Both the darker brown shades are lovey, though together they can get a little lost.  I like it, but I don’t love it.  If the gold shade was improved, it would be more versatile and easier to use.

The Glossover

palette

Intuition

B+
I like it, but I don't love it. If the gold shade was improved, it would be more versatile and easier to use.

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Friday, July 27th, 2012

Chanel Premier Regard Eyeshadow Quad
Chanel Premier Regard Eyeshadow Quad

Chanel Premier Regard Eyeshadow Quad ($58.00 for 0.24 oz.) consists of four shades, which the brands describes as “taupe brown, tender pink, beige, and intense black.”

The first shade is a lightly gray-tinted medium-dark brown with subtle coppery-brown micro-shimmer over a satiny sheen. It has good color payoff, and it applies smoothly and evenly. MAC Superwatt is similar but more metallic, lighter, and warmer. MAC Omega is a smidgen lighter. theBalm Celebrational is grayer. Inglot #342 is grayer, darker, and matte. Urban Decay Midnight Rodeo is more shimmery.

Beside the taupe shade, there’s a pale, light pink with subtle yellow undertones and decent color payoff–but it’s powdery. It blends out easily but almost to nothing, so you have to pack it on and then only blend out the edges with care. This color barely shows up on me (I’m about medium in color). MAC Sugar Snack is a several shades darker. NARS Douce France is a smidgen whiter. Bare Escentuals Giddy is a little darker.

Next, we have a pale golen peach with a satiny sheen. It has decent pigmentation but also has some powderiness, like the pink shade, that made it easy to blend but it was also easy to make it disappear. Dolce & Gabbana Cocoa is similar but matte. Inglot #328 is identical as far as I can tell. Inglot #330 is lighter.

The final shade is a dark black with a subtle cool-brown base and a matte finish. It has good color payoff, and it is rather intense. I used it very, very lightly with an extremely fluffy brush so that it would not overwhelm the other shades in the quad. The color compares favorably with blacks like theBalm Serious and MAC Carbon.

I love a good neutral quad. Chanel’s Kaska Beige and Beiges de Chanel are two of my favorites. I was kind of hoping that this might be in that vein; something gorgeous and subtle and neutral but effortlessly flattering. I think on some complexions, this might sing a bit louder than it did for me. It just washes together, and the textures were more powdery than anticipated. It has something to do with the two pale shades in the quad being paired with something nearly black that makes it a lot more stark and less simple to use.  I wore all four shades together, and they were mostly intact after eight hours; the two lighter colors were a little faded, but the darker shades looked the same as they did initially.

The Glossover

palette

Premier Regard

B
It's a decent-to-good quad, but I don't think it's going to work well on light-medium to medium-dark complexions; you either have to be really pale or deeper to have the color differences really show up. The black shade is a little cool-toned compared to the overall warmth of the other shades.

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Tuesday, December 27th, 2011

Chanel Eclosion Eyeshadow Quad
Chanel Eclosion Eyeshadow Quad

Chanel Spring 2012: Chanel Eclosion Eyeshadow Quad

Chanel Eclosion Eyeshadow Quad ($57.00 for 0.24 oz.) is described simply as having shades of “peach, gold, beige, and plum.”  It looks like it’s joining the permanent range, per Chanel’s press release.  This color palette should work across skin tones, both warm and cool, light to dark.

The upper left shade is a peachy-orange with a soft frosted finish. It’s not quite peach, but it’s not quite orange. I almost thought it was in the vein of corals but it doesn’t have enough pink in it. The pigmentation is rich, and the texture is buttery and dense, so it’s very soft and smooth. Dolce & Gabbana Jewels has a slightly similar shade, which appears more orange and less vibrant. Make Up For Ever #153 is the closest shade I could find, though it has a golden sheen.

The upper right shade is a pale ivory with yellowy gold sparkle. This is the frustrating shade I mentioned earlier; it is sheer, powdery, and the sparkle gets everywhere. I tried to use this on the inner third of my lid, and the majority of the shimmer landed underneath my eye, plus the sheerness made it look like virtually nothing was on my lid. MAC Carefree is similar but a little yellower in the base color and doesn’t have fall out issues. Make Up For Ever #101 has a stronger gold sheen instead of the gold sparkle.

The lower left shade is a medium-dark beige brown with a pearly sheen. It’s soft and smooth, and the color payoff is nice. Make Up For Ever #13 is more metallic and a bit darker. MAC Sweet Satisfaction is similar but seems warmer. MAC Grain is a touch lighter, while MAC Arena is a little darker.

The lower right shade is a reddened burgundy with red-brown undertones. The pigmentation is intense and opaque, while the texture is silky smooth. Make Up For Ever #17 is more metallic and browner. MAC Festive Delight is redder and lighter. MAC Cranberry is redder and lighter. Inglot #452 is more metallic but similar in color–just a touch lighter.

With the exception of one really frustrating shade to work with (more on that later!), I really enjoyed this quad. I think it’s fairly dupeable, though, so you may want to shop your own stash to see if you can recreate the color palette yourself. I can’t recommend something that has such a dud in it at this price point.

The Glossover

palette

Eclosion

B+
With the exception of one really frustrating shade to work with (more on that later!), I really enjoyed this quad. I think it's fairly dupeable, though, so you may want to shop your own stash to see if you can recreate the color palette yourself. I can't recommend something that has such a dud in it at this price point.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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