By Renee Rouleau, Skincare Expert and Esthetician
Renée Rouleau has been helping men, women and teens attain healthy, glowing, beautiful skin for more than twenty years.
Her philosophy is simple: With the proper tools, effective products and a disciplined approach, anyone can have great skin.
She provides regular skincare advice and tips on her blog, too!
10 Skin Care Ingredients to Keep You Looking Young
Esthetician Renée Rouleau shares her list of favorite anti-aging ingredients that both she and researchers find are the most efficacious to keep your skin more youthful-looking.
We have special skin repair cells just below the skin’s surface called Langerhans cells. They are our first line of immune defense in the body. These cells are very active when we are young to protect us from environmental skin damage and reactions. As we age, these cells become less active and the signs of aging begin to show. Yeast extracts are like nothing else on the market in stimulating these sluggish skin repair cells. They work well for both tired and sensitive skins alike. Beta-glucan yeast extracts have been shown to make skin less sensitive over time, as well as provide excellent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
AHAs (including glycolic, lactic, and fruit acids) are helpful in reducing wrinkles, fine lines, irregular pigmentation, age spots, and decreasing the size of enlarged pores by exfoliating away dead surface cells that age the skin. Exfoliation triggers repair, producing newer, fresher, younger-looking skin. The favored AHA is Glycolic Acid because it has the smallest molecular structure, and can penetrate deeper. Lactic cannot penetrate as deeply, but is gentler and more hydrating. AHAs are more effective in higher concentrations, such as those found in serums, which also retain the desired pH levels. It is important to note using acid products too often can lead to irritation, which then triggers an aging and inflammation response.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
This is the most stable form of Vitamin C, and converts to Ascorbyl Acid once inside the skin and is time-released so it works for up to eight hours giving you potent anti-aging protection. In addition, it stays fresher and more active longer and it isn’t as acidic, so it doesn’t cause stinging, redness or irritation. I feel it’s one of the very best topical age preventers, because Vitamin C has been the most extensively researched antioxidant in skincare. It’s found to be extremely effective in interfering with many aging free radicals found in the environment (such as sunlight, stress and pollutants). It is recommended to be worn daily under a moisturizer containing sunscreen. This antioxidant not only gives your skin its daily dose of anti-aging, it is also helpful with reducing discoloration and brown spots.
Water is essential for feeding the cells of our skin and keeping them looking plump, radiant and youthful. Found naturally in your skin’s dermis, Hyaluronic Acid holds onto water and provides tone and contour to the skin. When used in skin care products, it helps retain the skin’s natural moisture balance. Amazingly it can hold up to 1000 times its weight in water, resulting in enhanced elasticity, lubrication, plumpness and moisture in the skin. (Renée Rouleau Skin Drink uses a highly concentrated Hyaluronic Acid based, hydrating formula.) Layer it under your moisturizer or masque, or mix it with another serum to load up on this super humectant.
Peptides are used for anti-aging to smooth wrinkles and reduce the visual effects of aging. Peptides are a portion of larger protein molecules used in the body to communicate with and direct skin cells to behave in certain beneficial ways, such as producing more collagen or thickening the support structure of the skin. Peptides are able to enter the cells of the skin and remain intact. Different types of peptides influence different types of cells. Common peptides used in skin care products are Acetyl Hexapeptide, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Dipeptide-2 and Caprooyl Tetrapeptide.