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How-to: Contouring

By Victoria, Theatre Makeup Artist

Victoria is a 19-year old college sophomore who attends school in Massachusetts for Engineering, but she’s an avid Theater Makeup Artist and has worked on a variety of shows, from dance shows (think intense, flamboyant glitter) to periodic musicals. She aims to combine her “nerdy” passions with her artistic ones: to overanalyze the mathematics of reshaping the face, learn the science of why a product works better or worse. She’s a romantic dreamer who enjoys re-imagining herself in a soap opera, pretending one day a prince is going to come riding in on a dragon and take her away. Until then, she’s planning to use her makeup brushes and colors to force her friends to be the stars of her imaginary fairy tale.


How-to: Contouring

I remember the first time I looked at my pictures from a dance performance:  my face was completely bleached out, and I was so embarrassed I didn’t want to show them to anyone! At the next show, an older girl with beautiful orange stripes down the sides of her face came over and lovingly gave me some help. After a friend asked me if that performance was “Lion King” themed, I knew I needed a change. Since then, I’ve joined the battle against the monster we theatre makeup artists have to fight: giving life and dimension to a face that is flattened by unforgiving lights.

My weapon of choice is contouring. Highlighting and contouring is the art of changing the face. For theatre, we may contour for two reasons: one, because theatre lights bleach out all the shadows and dimension of the face, or two, to make the face look like a different ethnicity entirely. Today, I’m going to concentrate on the former: on giving yourself beautiful cheekbones.

One thing that I really want to highlight (ha!) in this post is that having beautiful cheekbones is not just about the cheekbones! It’s about how things look in relation to each other; how far the cheekbones are positioned from the eyes or the shape of your jawline. A relatively wider set jaw can mask any high cheekbones. Just shade along the jawline to soften and recess it a bit, and your cheekbones will pop out naturally.

Cheekbones generally start a finger or two widths away from the edge of the eye; if yours don’t, you might want to consider shading under the outside corner of the eye to push the cheekbone down further. Some cheekbones are naturally quite prominent and maybe your goal is to diminish them a bit! Avoid highlighter and place your blush further down. Before you start, analyze your own facial structure and compare it to the look you’re trying to achieve.

Find out what you’ll need and how to contour!

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Guerlain Rose Innocent Rouge G Lipstick

Guerlain Rose Innocent Rouge G Lipstick
Guerlain Rose Innocent Rouge G Lipstick

Guerlain Spring 2012: Rose Innocent Rouge G Lipstick

Debuting in January, Guerlain Rose Innocent Rouge G Lipstick ($48.00 for 0.12 oz.) is pale pink with subtle yellow undertones. This shade is limited edition from Guerlain’s spring collection, and it is one of four Rouge Gs–I’ll have reviews on the other three as soon as I can buy them. It’s almost a neutral pink, but the color itself is very light–it’s just a pink-tinted version of my natural lip color. Very my-lips-but-better kind of shade, so it may be rather superfluous on someone with more pigmented lips or else serve as a way to lighten them a shade or two. OCC Femme is an opaque version of this shade. MAC Dress It Up is a cooler-toned pink. MAC Royal Azalea is similar in lightness but is a touch cooler toned. MAC Behave Yourself is a bit darker and bluer.

This is the kind of shade that someone will love and wear everyday or one where someone just doesn’t see the point. The color coverage is semi-opaque (you can just barley see my lip freckle), but there’s a general translucency throughout the product that lets my natural lip color peek through. Rose Innocent feels more like a Rouge G Brilliant than your typical Rouge G, because it has more slip and natural glossiness, but it’s not quite as glossy (and definitely not as sheer) as a Brilliant. The color doesn’t apply as evenly, and I expect it’s due to the slip in the texture. It only wore for three hours on me, which is decent for this type of light color, though I tend to get better wear out of the Rouge G formula than that. It is very hydrating and comfortable to wear, though.

Guerlain Rouge G de Guerlain Lip Color Rose Innocent
9
Product
8.5
Pigmentation
9
Texture
7.5
Longevity
4
Application
84%
Total

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