New York Fashion Week Fall 2008 – Backstage Beauty with MAC at Y & Kei, Christian Cota, Rebecca Taylor, Bill Blass, Tommy Hilfiger, Zac Posen
Y & KEI | MAC Face & Body Foundation mixed with Pearl Creme Colour Base was applied to the skin for fresh, dewy, sheer, ethereal skin. MAC Cork Eye Shadow was applied with Brush under the lower lash line and in the crease. The lower lash line was accentuated with layers of Kid, Cork and Embark Eye Shadows. To maintain bare lips, MAC PRO Lip Erase was patted onto the lips. For a slight gloss, MAC PRO Longwear Gloss Coat was layered on top.
“The inspiration for the show was Strange Beauty; imagine the most beautiful women in the world looking a little sick and tired,” says Gregory Arlt.
CHRISTIAN COTA | For designer Christian Cota’s presentation, makeup artist Christian McCulloch used thin sheer washes of dark colours; rich browns and wine burgundy — to create a new version of the natural look; a wash of cabernet in the crease of the eyes, and a dot of ruby lip pigment used to add roses to the pale skin. It’s all about using your old makeup shades and mixing them down with gels that are either shiny or matte and applying them with a brush so you stop at the desired texture you want.
BREAKDOWN | MAC Face and Body Foundation was buffed into the skin. Mineralized Skinfinish Blush in Spring Sheen was placed high on the cheekbones using MAC Brush 138. MAC Chocolate Brown and Satin Taupe Pigments were blended from lid to brow with a 217 Brush. The pigments were also applied along the lower lash line. MAC Eye Kohl in Fascinating was applied to the water line.MAC Chocolate Brown and Satin Taupe Pigments were blended from lid to brow with a 217 Brush. The pigments were also applied along the lower lash line. MAC Lipstick in Media was pressed onto the lips.
“Siberian ice princess. Wintery, dusky, mushroom, cool tones,” says Christian McCulloch.
REBECCA TAYLOR | To go with Rebecca Taylor’s chic American dresses and jackets, Romy Soleimani lined the eyes with a brown/black combo, using tawny pink and taupe to sculpt the cheek, and making the matte lip more modern by mixing washes of wine, pink and a little violet to create a new neutral that resembles a glass of sherry on the rocks. Yum.
BILL BLASS | Tom Pecheux’s face for Bill Blass was one of the most memorable of the week; “it’s glam rock,” is how he described a palette of shimmery plums. On the eyes, Pecheux chose an antiqued plum pigment shadow that went from lash to crease — then deepened the eye look by putting Carbon, a smoky eye shadow, in the crease, making the magenta gradient and rich. After using Smolder Eye Kohl inside the eyes and out — Pecheux mixed fuchsia and bright orange powder blushes high on the cheek in that seventies “V” shape to create cheekbones straight out of Studio 54. “It’s like a facelift with blush,” he laughed. The lips were blotted out with Lip Erase in Dim — for an all-over effect of Brooke Shields on an Interview cover in 1978.
BREAKDOWN | For matte skin, MAC Studio Fix Fluid Foundation was stippled onto the skin. Cheeks were coloured with a mix of Full Fuchsia and Orange Devil Blush. MAC Rouge Flambe Pigment was applied to the lids for a pop of plum and shimmer. Smolder Eye Pencil was lined onto the top and bottom lash lines. Carbon Eye Shadow was layered over the liner with an Eye Liner Brush, extending at the ends and winged upwards toward the hairline. The lip was kept very nude and natural with an application of Spice Lip Liner and MAC PRO Lip Erase in Pale.
“Sexy, 80s, Glam – rock – power girl.” Tom Pecheux – Key Artist
TOMMY HILFIGER | We saw a lot of blue eye shadow this week, used in new ways. Lisa Butler mixed a blue eye shadow with black on the eyelids at Tommy Hilfiger — then used the blue as eye liner — and even pushed it into the top lashes to really bring home the blue theme. Then she used Dainty Mineralize Blush and Chic Lipstick on the lips. “It’s very, very clean and tidy,” said Butler.
BREAKDOWN | MAC Face and Body Foundation was applied with a 190 Brush and Mineralized Skinfinish in Natural was dusted over from center out to create a sheer finish. Cheeks were coloured lightly with Fleur Power Blush. MAC Blue Storm Eye Shadow was applied with Brush 209 to the top lash line for a soft, bright blue line. Lashes were curled and MAC PRO Lash Mascara was applied to lashes to create dark, separated lashes. Lingering Brow Pencil was softly applied to brows with Brush 311. MAC Vegas Volt Lipstick was brushed on the lips with Brush 194 for a sheer, bright coral stain.
“Young, chic, clean and well-mannered. The neatness of Lily Allen,” says Lisa Butler.
ZAC POSEN | Take the Robert Palmer video vixens, add in French ballerinas, Suzy Parker in haute couture in the early sixties — and Minnie Mouse — and you have Zac Posen’s cheeky, chic-y girls. With their hair slicked into Balanchine buns that had Mouse ear pom poms attached, these girls practically cried out for matte red lipstick — and, courtesy of Charlotte Tilbury, they got it. She covered the lips with Beet Lip Pencil, then covered it with Ruby Wu Lipstick, “the best blue-red matte on the market,” she said. Then she made the mouth more rose-like and deeper by adding burgundy in the center. The eyes were, as Tilbury described, “sweaty” — “this is a girl who’s been partying all night. She’s the ultimate Helmut Newton girl.” The sweaty nightlife eye was gunmetal, grey and indigo mixed with gloss. The overall look was couture goes to clubs â€“ and does ballet on the dance floor.
BREAKDOWN | MAC Moisturecover Concealer was applied where needed. Blot Powder Loose was applied to the center of the face with Brush 168. MAC Eye Kohl in Smolder was applied on top and bottom lash lines, around the eyes. Sharkskin Shade Stick mixed with MAC Gloss Texture was applied on lids and crease and extended past the outer corner of the eyes using Brush 217. MAC Zoom Lash Mascara in Black was applied to top and bottom lashes. Brows were combed with Brow Set Clear. MAC Cherry Lip Pencil was used to line the lips. MAC Ruby Woo Lipstick was applied to the entire lip, followed by Charred Lipstick placed in the center of the lip and blended with Brush 316.
“It’s a sexy, mannequin look. Just like the girls have been partying all night,” says Charlotte Tilbury.
Take a look at some more close-ups…