New York Fashion Week Fall 2008 – Backstage Beauty with MAC at Badgley Mischka, Monique Lhuillier, Rodarte, J. Mendel, & Behnaz Sarafpour
BADGLEY MISCHKA | Tom Pecheux designs the look that focuses on a multi-layered colored eye that goes from brow to lid. It goes from burgundy to brown to golden bronze with golden pigment just above the pupils. In fact, it was a rose pink, a new MAC pigment for fall, nameless thus far. “Then I put a bit of green inthe corners of the eye — just for fun!” he added. Lips were beige and glossy, rather late seventies a la Lauren Hutton.
Look Breakdown | MAC Select Moisturecover was worked into the skin to help hydrate the skin, followed by a dust of Invisible Set Powder to create a soft, matte finish. Salsa Rose and Devil Powder Blushes were brushed high on the cheek bones with MAC Brush 116. MAC Tarnish Eye Kohl and Chocolate Brown Pigment were mixed and applied with Brush 275 onto lid in an almond shape. Copper Pigment and Reflects Gold was layered on top to add a touch of shimmer. MAC Newly Minted Eye Shadow was patted into the inner corner of the eye, followed by Mystery Eye Shadow dusted over the lids to finish the look. Lashes were coated with Zoom Black Mascara. MAC Wildly Lush Plushglass was applied to the lips.
“Mixture of texture and style – colourful, rich, young and playful,” says Tom Pecheux.
MONIQUE LHUILLIER | Val Garland created a look with a full-court, all-color eye socket using a pigment in a heavy grey blue that melded into inky blue, purple, and burgundy. She described it as, “Quite reflective” and “quite liquidy.” The rest of the face was neutral bare, with a sheer vino lip.
Look Breakdown | MAC Face and Body Foundation was used to prep the skin, followed by Bamboo Créme Colour base brushed with MAC Brush 188 to lightly shade the cheeks. MAC Smolder Eye Pencil was applied to bottom lash line, as well as inside the water line of the eye. Indigo Eye Pencil was used as a base on the inner and outer corners of the lid, blended up from lash line to brow. Using 239 and 224 Brushes, Blue Pigment was layered on top. MAC Plumed Violet Créme Colour Base was applied to the centre of lid with Brush 272, followed by Violet Pigment layered on top with a 239 Brush. Reflects Blue Pigment was applied to the inner and outer corners of the lid to intensify the colour. Night Moth Eye Pencil was applied to the bottom lash line and blended out with a 239 Brush. Beauty Marked Eye Shadow was pressed into the Night Moth with a 239 Brush to define the eye. MAC Night Moth Lip Pencil was applied to the lips and blended with Brush 318.
“Marbleizing of three colours – inky blue, rich burgundy and intense purple. Dramatic, but poetic at the same time. The look is a Lolita Lempika painting mixed with a Deborah Turbeville photograph,” says Val Garland.
RODARTE | Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s clothes are froty couture-like confections–completed concotions that are always colorful and textural wonderlands. James Kaliardos chose a frosted winter lip, using sheer layers of matte and sheen throughout the plains of the face, working with light and texture.
Look Breakdown | Skin was paled down with an application of Face and Body Foundation, followed by White Paintstick. Luna Créme Colour Base was applied with fingers to the bridge of the nose and cupids bow. Paintsticks in White and Pink Vivid were applied to the lid, followed by Underage Lipgloss. Fuchsia Pigment was brushed onto the outer corners of the eye and under the lower lash line with Brush 210. Lips were prepped with an application of PRO Lip Erase, then Desire Lipstick was brushed onto the lips.
“Japanese horror movies; ethereal, dark and dreamy – transparent, pale skin, hardcore vamp lips, accentuated cheeks and delicate eyes,” says James Kaliardos.
J. MENDEL | Mendel’s girls are chic, svelte, smart, social, and rich. Gucci Westman kept their faces matte and clean with a caramel cheek and lip tones with bronze pigment on the lids with just a touch of gray.
Look Breakdown | Makeup artist Gucci Westman used MAC Cosmetics to create a metallic eye to represent the richness of Mendel’s clothes, as well as the legendary site of the show. “I am very inspired by the Plaza. It is fitting for Gilles [Mendel]’s clothes, with the rich textures in the environment and its gold gilding. Gilles has a lot of brown and gold in the collection and I wanted to extend that into the makeup.” Westman covered lids with a smoky, metallic brown shade and lined eyes with a gold liquid liner. Natural skin and lips kept the focus on eyes, which were without mascara. (Source: WWD)
BEHNAZ SARAFPOUR | With Gucci Westman at the helm, she did two-thirds of the models in a gray eye from lid to brow, with the other third in either lime green or fuchsia purple from lid to lash. She even used the respective colors to “flock” the lashes instead of contrastign with dark mascara.
Look Breakdown | MAC Select Moistureblend Foundation was blended with a 217 Brush where needed. MAC Canary Yellow and Bitter Eye Shadows were applied with a 252 Brush from lash line to just above the crease and also along the lower lash line. The eye shadows were blended in a round shape, around the eye with a 224 Brush. MAC Myth Lipstick was applied with fingers.
“It’s a fun season to be bold and get your rocks off as an artist. It’s all about enjoying colour, textures and freedom of expression,” says Gucci Westman.
Check out more beauty shots from the shows!