Friday, November 1st, 2013

MAC Nocturnals/Silver & Violet Set
MAC Nocturnals/Silver & Violet Set

MAC Nocturnals/Silver & Violet Set ($32.50 for 0.55 oz.) contains three pigments and two glitters. Each pigment contains 0.09 oz. of product, while each glitter vial contains 0.14 oz. of product. None of MAC’s glitters are listed as eye safe, and these two glitters are listed as “not safe for the eye or lip area.” This set contains $37.80 worth of pigments and $39.20 worth of glitters for a total value of $77.00. You could try using the glitters in nail polish, in the hair, and on the body. These are loose glitters, so you will need some sort of adhesive base or mix to have them stick to skin. I applied the glitters over Fyrinnae’s Pixie Epoxy for swatches. I wish MAC would test or use a grade of glitter that was eye safe, especially if they’re going to include them in consumer kits like this.

Vanilla is described as a “soft ivory white.” It’s a pale, white gold with warm undertones and a golden yellow sheen. It had good color payoff both dry and damp, though it was more metallic in finish when applied damp. It wore well for seven and a half hours before I saw some faint creasing. It’s part of the permanent range. There’s no shortage of dupes for this shade, though Vanilla has been a long-time fan favorite for years, but you may already have something like it if you haven’t come across it before. Tarina Tarantino Taurella (LE) is warmer. Too Faced Snowflakes (LE) is similar. Bobbi Brown Sunlight Gold (P, $28.00) is a cream product. Disney by Sephora Charming (LE) is similar. Urban Decay Illusion (LE, $18.00) is similar. MAC Carefree (P, $21.00) is less frosted. MAC Short Shorts (LE, $15.00) is similar. Guerlain Calligraphy #1 (LE) is less metallic. bareMinerals Carte Blanche (LE) is similar. See comparison swatches.

Kitschmas is described as a “shimmering pink mauve pearl.” It’s a pinky-lavender with subtle cool undertones and a frosted finish. The texture of this is slightly chunky, so it is best applied with a damp brush as this will help it smooth out and apply with more color payoff (and less fall out!). It wore well for seven and a half hours, and after eight hours, there was some slight creasing. It’s part of the permanent range. Urban Decay Grifter (P, $18.00) is darker. MAC Cheers My Dear (LE, $21.00) is similar–more metallic. Guerlain Attrape-Coeur #1 (LE) is darker, less metallic. Bobbi Brown Cool Lilac (P, $24.00) is cooler-toned and a cream product. See comparison swatches.

Push the Edge is described as a “deep bright purple with pearl.” It’s a medium-dark, cool-toned violet purple with pink-ish-red tones and a pearly sheen. It was fairly pigmented applied dry, but it was more intense when applied with a dampened brush and tended to look a bit darker/richer. It lasted for eight hours on my lid without creasing, but it did stain. It’s limited edition but has been repromoted several times. Urban Decay Vice (LE, $18.00) is more muted. NARS Trash (LE, $24.00) is a cream product. MAC Pink Union #2 (LE, $21.00) is cooler-toned. Inglot #439 (P, $6.00) is slightly cooler-toned. See comparison swatches.

Grey is described as “sparkly chunky grey.” It’s a dark gray small-sized glitter that flashes to a gunmetal silver and gray as the light hits it. It is not lip or eye safe. I don’t have another glitter in this color that I can recall, though I’m sure it is something dupable by brands with full glitter ranges (Lit, OCC, etc.).

Pink is described as a “bright pink.” It’s a medium pink glitter with small-sized particles that flash from light pink to coppery-pink. It’s not lip or eye safe. It’s part of the permanent range. I don’t have another glitter in this color that I can recall, though I’m sure it is something dupable by brands with full glitter ranges (Lit, OCC, etc.).

Note, there are no ratings for glitter because it’s not a product that really fits the criteria we use in The Glossover at this time.

The Glossover

palette

Nocturnals/Silver & Violet Set

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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P
product

Vanilla

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

5/5

Results
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P
product

Kitschmas

B

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Friday, November 1st, 2013

MAC Nocturnals/Green & Teal Set
MAC Nocturnals/Green & Teal Set

MAC Nocturnals/Green & Teal Set ($32.50 for 0.55 oz.) contains three pigments and two glitters. Each pigment contains 0.09 oz. of product, while each glitter vial contains 0.14 oz. of product. None of MAC’s glitters are listed as eye safe, and 3D Gold also not lip safe. This set contains $37.80 worth of pigments and $39.20 worth of glitters for a total value of $77.00. You could try using the glitters in nail polish, in the hair, and on the body. These are loose glitters, so you will need some sort of adhesive base or mix to have them stick to skin. I applied the glitters over Fyrinnae’s Pixie Epoxy for swatches. I wish MAC would test or use a grade of glitter that was eye safe, especially if they’re going to include them in consumer kits like this.

Reflects Gold is described as a “white glitter that flashes gold.” It looks like a silvery-white at one angle, then more of a golden champagne at another angle. It is one of the finer glitters that MAC has. It’s part of the permanent PRO range. I don’t have another glitter in this color that I can recall, though I’m sure it is something dupable by brands with full glitter ranges (Lit, OCC, etc.).

Old Gold is described as a “high frosted tarnish gold.” It’s a medium-dark, green-ish gold over an olive brown base with a frosted, metallic finish. It had good color payoff applied both wet and dry, though it was more metallic when applied with a dampened brush. It wore well for seven and a half hours, and then it started to show signs of creasing. It’s part of the permanent range. Too Faced Twinkle (LE) is less olive. NARS Iskandar (P, $25.00) is a cream product. Fyrinnae Lucky Charmed (P, $6.80) is greener. See comparison swatches.

Deep Blue Green is described as a “rich deep bluish green.” It’s a bluish-teal over a blackened base with a frosted finish. It is a bit darker and only semi-opaque when applied dry, and when applied with a dampened brush, it’s more metallic, smoother, and opaque. It wore well for eight hours. It’s part of the permanent range. Dior Bonne Etoile (384) #4 (LE) is lighter. Sephora Collection Midnight Swim (16) (P, $13.00) is less frosted. Urban Decay Hijack (LE, $18.00) is lighter. See comparison swatches.

Just Before Dawn is described as “warm taupe frost.” It’s a medium-dark, gray-leaning taupe with subtle warm undertones and a soft, satin finish. Applied dry, it had fairly good color payoff but appeared browner and lighter. Applied damp, it was grayer and fully pigmented. It lasted for almost eight hours without fading or creasing. Disney by Sephora Jaq (LE) is warmer. MAC Romance Me (LE, $15.00) is lighter. MAC Keep Your Cool (P, $21.00) is cooler-toned. bareMinerals Wanderlust (P) is similar.See comparison swatches.

3D Gold is described as a “sparkly chunky gold.” It’s more like a golden chartreuse glitter with a mix of iridescent glitter that gives a rainbow of color as it flashes around. It’s very, very pretty, and it’s such a shame it isn’t eye or lip safe. I know that many MAC artists use the glitters on the runways, and I’ve included a shot of using it on the lid, but I get too nervous using it myself.

Note, there are no ratings for glitter because it’s not a product that really fits the criteria we use in The Glossover at this time.

The Glossover

LE
palette

Nocturnals/Green & Teal Set

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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product

Old Gold

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
P
product

Deep Blue Green

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Friday, November 1st, 2013

MAC Nocturnals/Black & Gold Set
MAC Nocturnals/Black & Gold Set

MAC Nocturnals/Black & Gold Set ($32.50 for 0.55 oz.) contains three pigments and two glitters. Each pigment contains 0.09 oz. of product, while each glitter vial contains 0.14 oz. of product. None of MAC’s glitters are listed as eye safe, and these two glitters are listed as “not safe for the eye or lip area.” This set contains $37.80 worth of pigments and $39.20 worth of glitters for a total value of $77.00. You could try using the glitters in nail polish, in the hair, and on the body. These are loose glitters, so you will need some sort of adhesive base or mix to have them stick to skin.  I applied the glitters over Fyrinnae’s Pixie Epoxy for swatches. I wish MAC would test or use a grade of glitter that was eye safe, especially if they’re going to include them in consumer kits like this.

Naked is described as a “flesh beige with pearl.” It’s a pale, peachy-beige with a soft, champagne shimmer-sheen. Apply dry, it’s a very sheer wash of color with some sheen, and then when applied with a damp brush, it’s opaque, warmer, and darker. It wore well for seven and a half hours before showing some signs of fading and very, very faint creasing. This shade is part of the permanent range. NARS Jezebel (P) is similar, MAC Phresh Out #3 (LE) is more frosted. Too Faced Cheers! (LE) is similar. Kat Von D Precious (LE) is also similar. NARS Nepal (P, $24.00) is a touch darker. See comparison swatches.

Gold is described as a “sparkly chunky gold.” It contains small, gold glitter particles that go between champagne gold and a more coppery gold. It’s part of the permanent PRO range. I don’t have another glitter in this color that I can recall, though I’m sure it is something dupable by brands with full glitter ranges (Lit, OCC, etc.).

Museum Bronze is described as a “rich taupe with gold pearl.” It’s a medium-dark brown with warm, golden frost and a frosted, metallic finish. Applied dry, it was more frosted, and then applied with a damp brush, it was more metallic, but both applications had full, opaque color. It wore well for almost eight hours before showing signs of fading. It’s part of the permanent PRO range. Chanel Initiation (827) (LE, $36.00) is more glittery, cream product. Makeup Geek Vegas Lights is similar. Urban Decay Ambush (LE, $18.00) is less golden. Urban Decay Radar (LE, $18.00) is darker. Edward Bess Cosmic Bliss #4 (P, $30.00) is less warm-toned. MAC Cognac (LE, $15.00) is lighter, more golden. MAC Tempting (P, $15.00) is not as warm-toned. See comparison swatches.

Copper Sparkle is described as “super frosty copper flecks.” It’s a vibrant, orange-copper with a frosted, metallic finish. The texture is very chunky, and it needs to be pressed/smoothed into the skin, which is why it tends to work best when applied with a damp brush as it helps to smooth the consistency out. It’s part of the permanent range. Sleek MakeUP Sunset #9 (P, $9.99) is similar. Sugarpill Asteria (LE, $12.00) is more orange. Guerlain Cuivre Ora (LE, $35.00) is slightly browner. NARS California (P, $24.00) is redder. MAC Star Myth (LE, $15.00) is similar. MAC Brash (LE, $15.00) is also similar. See comparison swatches.

Black is described as a “sparkly chunky black.” It’s small-to-medium black glitter. I’d love to hear how you guys would use this one, because it really doesn’t have a lot of reflective qualities, so it doesn’t dance in the light like real glitter. It just… looks like black grit. I noticed this one was a total pain to remove, too; it was best removed by running water all over the skin as makeup removing wipes and cotton pads just smeared it everywhere. Again, I’m sure it is something dupable by brands with full glitter ranges (Lit, OCC, etc.), but I don’t have any specific to call out.

Note, there are no ratings for glitter because it’s not a product that really fits the criteria we use in The Glossover at this time.

The Glossover

palette

Nocturnals/Black & Gold Set

B+

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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P
product

Naked

B+

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
P
product

Museum Bronze

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Monday, August 5th, 2013

Sugarpill Hellatronic ElektroCute Neon Pigment
Sugarpill ElektroCute Neon Pigments

Sugarpill ElektroCute Neon Pigments ($16.00 for 0.19 oz.) come in an assortment of five bold, bright shades. Overall, these are going to be a product some will absolutely love and others will find frustrating and difficult to use (and ultimately not worth the patience). These are designed to be used with some sort of base or mixing medium and shouldn’t be applied straight to bare skin. Over the past week, I’ve tried a rich assortment of bases and mixing mediums, and I’ll lay out my findings below, but suffice to say, expect a fair amount of fall out, some trial and error, and maybe a test of your patience. On the plus side, when I wore these out, I was stopped by no less than five people asking me what I was wearing (in the space of an hour).

First and foremost, these are not considered eye safe in the U.S. due to neon pigments (as “the FDA has not yet tested/approved the use of neon pigments in the immediate eye area,” per Sugarpill’s website), but they are considered eye safe in Europe and Canada. I’ve used them on lips and on eyes, but I reiterate that they are not considered eye safe in the U.S. and by using them that way, I am doing so at my own risk (and if you decide to do the same, it is at your own risk). All shades, except Hellatronic, are listed as lip safe.

I had the most luck using NYX’s Jumbo Eye Pencil as a base (the one I used for testing was Electric Blue, and I would have chosen Milk, but I actually don’t have it), as it absorbed and took the color mostly evenly and kept the majority of the sparkles that were pressed on… on for the remainder of the day. I was not able to get nearly as much sparkle to stick to the lid as appears in the jar, though, and the sparkles do not apply evenly and tend to stick randomly. In my test, I applied Sparkage on half of the lid with Hellatronic on the outer half, and all of Sparkage’s sparkles wound up in the center of the lid. Be very careful blending the product and only blend around the edges if applied on the skin. Here are my results with other bases:

  • MAC Mixing Medium: slightly uneven color application, only partial adhesion of sparkles
  • Lit Cosmetics Glitter Base: somewhat even color application but was slightly darkened/patchy in places, better adhesion of sparkles
  • Fyrinnae Pixie Epoxy: good adhesion of sparkles, somewhat even application but very imperative to watch the amount of Pixie Epoxy applied and allow to half-dry before applying (it felt far more finicky to use than when I’ve used it with Fyrinnae’s loose eyeshadows)
  • Regular Eyeshadow Primers: some color applied and fairly evenly, but sparkles go everywhere but the lid (I tried Too Faced Shadow Insurance, NARS Smudge Proof, Urban Decay Original Primer Potion)

These can be applied to the brows by using a mixing medium like Illamasqua’s Sealing Gel or Lit’s Glitter Base and a thin, liner or brow brush. For lips, apply a thin coat of clear gloss and then pat on the pigment across the lips, then blend with fingers, brush, or just press and move your lips together. I like applying a little more gloss after that to get more even color. They can be applied to the body and used to accent body painting. I would recommend a creamy, opaque, slightly tacky base to apply the color on the skin and some of the sparkle, and to intensify the sparkle, use a glitter adhesive and a soft, rounded brush to lightly pat on additional product just where you need it. Small, dome-shaped brushes work the best for me for patting on color precisely and to minimize fall out. I also liked to pat and push my brush against the inside of the lid to keep the product “sticking” to the brush, rather than loosely pressed against it. The opaque base helped the most with yielding even color coverage, as invisible/clear bases seemed to highlight that they don’t always go on perfectly even. I spoke with both xSparkage (Leesha) and Queen of Blending (Lauren), and they both recommend a similar application to maximize color intensity and minimize fall out.

I’m sure some of you are thinking to yourself, “Wow, these sound like a lot of work, why would I bother?” To that, I can easily say that these are the easiest neons I’ve worked with. They are certainly a drastic improvement from MAC’s neon pigments, and these can take dampness better than most matte loose pigments. They’re more pigmented than Sleek’s neon eyeshadows and are slightly easier to blend. Sugarpill’s improved on some of the issues with neon pigments, but there is still plenty of room for improvement (in sparkle dispersion/evenness). Of the shades, Hellatronic was the most interesting and complex, as the base color actually seemed to shift (not just the sparkle), and the sparkle seemed finer and more embedded with the underlying color, whereas the others seemed more like a matte neon pigment with sparkle on top.

I looked across the different types of application (brows, body/skin, lips) to assess a rating, and ultimately, it’s hard to have such a varied application and resulting grade. I suspect most will use these around the eye area as eyeliner, eyeshadow, or brow color, so I did weight how they applied on skin (be it my forearm or somewhere else) slightly more than say lips (which was an area that these were easier to use in). I could not fully contain the fall out (even using adhesive bases designed for glitter). They don’t apply perfectly evenly. They do not want to be blended (together or on their own or with anything else).  When they work, they can look gorgeous and totally traffic-stopping, but to get them there is certainly a journey.

Hellatronic is described as a “fluorescent indigo with red/purple/blue color-shifting super sparkles.” It’s a cool-toned, violet-tinged blue with bluish-violet sparkle. Sephora My Boyfriend’s Jeans is bluer, darker, less sparkly. Sugarpill Velocity is bluer, matte. Urban Decay Chaos is slightly darker, less sparkly. MAC Dynamic Duo 2 #2 is darker, matte. MAC Cobalt is matte. Illamasqua Sadist is bluer, matte. See comparison swatches.

Hi-Viz is described as a “blazing neon yellow with blue/green/gold color-shifting super sparkles.” It’s a brightened, warm-toned yellow with goldish-green sparkle. Fyrinnae Banna Mochi is more frosted, less sparkly. MAC Bright Yellow is more matte. MAC Colour Added is more shimmery, less sparkly. Illamasqua Hype is matte. Inglot #370 is matte. See comparison swatches.

Love Buzz is described as a “brilliant neon hot pink with yellow/orange/red color-shifting super sparkles.” It’s a brightened, neon fuchsia-pink with pinky-red sparkle. Fyrinnae Superstar is more frosted, les ssparkly, lighter. Sugarpill Dollipop is matte, darker. MAC Magenta Madness is similar but has no sparkle. Make Up For Ever #75 is darker, matte. See comparison swatches.

Sparkage is described as “radioactive lime green with blue/green/gold color-shifting super sparkles.” It’s a light-medium, cool-toned green with yellow-ish edges–it looks cool-toned overall, but there’s still a yellowness that comes through. It has green-ish-gold sparkle on top. Sephora Picnic in the Park is darker, less sparkly. Sugarpill Midori is much darker and cooler-toned. Illamasqua Fledgling is slightly darker, matte. See comparison swatches.

Supercharged is described as “flaming neon orange with blue/green/gold color-shifting super sparkles.” It’s a light-medium tangerine orange with golden sparkle. Fyrinnae Pyromantic Erotica is darker, more shimmery, less sparkly. Wet ‘n’ Wild Newport Nights #5 is les ssparkly. Maybelline Fierce & Tangy is darker, brighter, cream product (might work well as a base for this shade). MAC Chessa is less sparkly, more shimmery. Illamasqua Vulgar is a bit darker, matte. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

P
product

ElektroCute Neon Pigment

C-

I could not fully contain the fall out (even using adhesive bases designed for glitter). They don't apply perfectly evenly. They do not want to be blended (together or on their own or with anything else). When they work, they can look gorgeous and totally traffic-stopping, but to get them there is certainly a journey.

Product

6/10

Pigmentation

7.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

2.5/5

Results
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P
product

Hellatronic

C+

Product

6.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

3/5

Results
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P
product

Hi-Viz

C-

Product

6/10

Pigmentation

7.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

2.5/5

Results
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Friday, November 30th, 2012

Make Up For Ever #302 Holodiam Powder
Make Up For Ever #302 Holodiam Powder

Not Everything is How It Appears

Make Up For Ever #302 Holodiam Powder ($25.00 for 0.035 oz.) is described as “plum with pink, purple, and turquoise highlights.” Alone, it has a strong reddish copper base with flecks of pink and teal sparkle. When I layered it over a black eyeliner, it appeared as a blue-teal. Ultimately, how it looks and what color comes out depends on the base, so it will take on different characteristics over different colored bases as well as with different viewing angles.

Because of its duo- (or triple) chrome finish, it’s a very versatile product.  It’s described as an “extremely fine loose powder with a pearlescent finish.”  Make Up For Ever recommends it for use on eyes and cheeks and used dry for a softer effect and wet for something more intense.  They do advise using some sort of setting/fixing spray or sealer.  It is a very fine micro-glitter; it feels larger than shimmer or powder (more texture than the Star Powders but finer than traditional glitter).

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Thursday, November 29th, 2012

Make Up For Ever #303 Holodiam Powder
Make Up For Ever #303 Holodiam Powder

Glitter and Spice and Everything Nice

Make Up For Ever #303 Holodiam Powder ($25.00 for 0.035 oz.) is described as “white with blue, green, and gold highlights.” When applied to the skin alone, it looks like a mix of lavender, violet, green-gold, and silver. Patted over black eyeliner, it looked blue and gold at one angle, then green and teal at the next. It’s somewhat like Illamasqua Beguile. I suspect MAC Reflects Transparent Teal would also be a bit similar.

Make Up For Ever’s Holodiam Powder is a new and limited edition loose powder for the holidays that’s described as an “extremely fine loose powder with a pearlescent finish.” It can be used on eyes and cheeks, wet or dry, as desired.  On its own, it doesn’t stay put well, so my best advice is to use an adhesive base, cream eyeshadow, fixing spray/seal, or patted onto some makeup base before it’s had time to dry (foundation, eyeliner, etc.).  It’s fine micro-glitter, and I think it works well on the eyes–so thank goodness it’s safe for the eyes–but on the cheeks, it felt a little sand-like.  You might opt for one of the brand’s Star Powders for something finer.

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