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Illamasqua Fledgling Eyeshadow

Illamasqua Fledgling Eyeshadow
Illamasqua Fledgling Eyeshadow

Illamasqua Fledgling Eyeshadow

Illamasqua Fledgling Eyeshadow ($20.00 for 0.07 oz.) is described as a “matte kelly green.” It’s a brightened medium grassy green with very subtle yellow undertones and a matte finish. MAC Fresh Flare is darker, cooler-toned. MAC Wondergrass is similar but a touch lighter, yellower, and shimmery. Inglot #384 is darker. Inglot #331 is even darker. Make Up For Ever #91 is just a little lighter and yellower.

Just released, Fledgling is another stellar matte shade to work with.  It’s intensely pigmented with opaque, smooth color payoff with very little product required.  The texture is soft, finely-milled, but not powdery.  If you aren’t a fan of some of the denser, more “buttery” matte shades because of the excess powder they kick up, you may find Illamasqua’s formula a happy medium between drier and softer mattes.  Fledgling wears extremely well with or without a primer; it lasted for eight hours without fading or creasing.

Illamasqua Powder Eyeshadow Fledgling
Fledgling
Fledgling
9
Product
9.5
Pigmentation
10
Texture
10
Longevity
4.5
Application
96%
Total

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Chanel Sable Beige Soleil Tan de Chanel

Chanel Sable Beige Soleil Tan de Chanel
Chanel Sable Beige Soleil Tan de Chanel

Chanel Sable Beige Soleil Tan de Chanel ($60.00 for 0.53 oz.) includes seven stripes of shades that range from warm tans and browns to warm pinks to warm golds and beiges. Chanel recommends using different combinations of the seven hues to highlight and sculpt the face. Two of the shades looked exactly the same on me (the second and fourth shades), so swatches shown include six individual swatches and then one all-over, blended together swatch.

The individual stripes include an orange-tan with a golden shimmer, sheer beige with champagne shimmer, dirty orange-brown with a frosted copper shimmer, pale beige with a satin finish, white gold with a golden shimmer, and a muted tan-orange with a gold sheen. Together, it creates a light-medium warm, golden tan with a soft gold sheen. Guerlain Terracotta is a bit darker, less golden. Urban Decay Gilded is more orange. Illamasqua Thalia is darker and more shimmery. MAC Golden is the closest, though it has less of a golden sheen.

It’s a really soft color, and it’s not too orange or brown–there are definitely a lot of beige tones–so it should flatter a lot of skin tones that are light to medium in color. As a highlighter, this could work on warmer, deeper complexions, though, just less so as a bronzer. Because it’s a softer hue, it’s easy to apply and hard to overdo. It warms up my cheeks and adds natural color without making me look burnt or overdone. The sheen of the finish is subtle and not at all frosted or shimmery, so it doesn’t emphasize pores or imperfections in the skin’s texture. It wears about seven hours on me with a little fading around the top edges.

The texture is incredibly soft and finely-milled, feels like silk against the skin, and blends effortlessly as a result.   If you want to use it as more of a highlighter, stick with the lower half of the compact (and avoid the very bottom shade), and if you want a deeper, more bronzed color, stick to the upper half of the palette, focusing on the first three shades.

Chanel Soleil Tan de Chanel Luminous Bronzing Powder Sable Beige
9
Product
10
Pigmentation
10
Texture
8
Longevity
5
Application
93%
Total

Chanel Calypso Glossimer

Chanel Calypso Glossimer
Chanel Calypso Glossimer

Chanel Calypso Glossimer

Chanel Calypso Glossimer ($29.50 for 0.19 oz.) is a medium-dark burnt tangerine with soft gold shimmer. MAC Caqui is a bit redder and much more opaque, so it also looks more intense. MAC Knockout is darker, more vibrant, and redder. MAC Dare to Wear is more shimmery and a little lighter. Lancome Cherrywood Luxe is redder.

Calypso is semi-opaque and applies fairly evenly without settling into lip lines too noticeably.  It has a healthy glossy shine, and it wears for four and a half hours.  Chanel’s signature gloss formula is supposed to deliver shimmer and “high-shine glow” with shades that range from “sheer and natural” to “sparkling and rich.” The formula is supposed to be both comfortable and long-wearing.  The formula is moderately hydrating, and the texture isn’t too thin or too thick, lightweight, and comfortable to wear.

Chanel Levres Scintillantes Glossimer Calypso
Calypso
Calypso
9
Product
10
Pigmentation
9.5
Texture
8.5
Longevity
4
Application
91%
Total

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Milani Shocking Pink Powder Eyeshadow

Milani Shocking Pink Powder Eyeshadow
Milani Shocking Pink Powder Eyeshadow

Milani Shocking Pink Powder Eyeshadow

Milani Shocking Pink Powder Eyeshadow ($4.49 for 0.11 oz.) is a vibrant magenta pink with strong blue undertones and a very subtle dusting of silver shimmer. This might be one of the most vibrant shades I’ve seen, period, but particularly from a mass brand. Sugarpill Dollipop is less blue-based, pinker. MAC Magenta Madness is a little more intense, darker, and pinker. Make Up For Ever #75 is much, much darker and pinker.

The formula is described as “super pigmented, easily blendable, creaseproof, [and] silk-like.” It’s a pretty tall order, but Milani actually delivers well on all four claims. It’s extremely pigmented; it’s rich in color, and it has a soft, buttery texture that’s dense and so very soft. It’s one of the softer, denser mattes (like Inglot), as compared to MAC’s regular matte formula, which is a drier, firmer matte. The soft, silky-smooth texture enables really easy blending and diffusing of color. It applies and adheres well to the bare lid, lasting about eight hours with no creasing and minor fading around the edges.

It will be available exclusively at select CVS stores this May. I’ve linked to Milani’s website for the time being, as it’s a good starting point for tracking down where Milani is sold near you.  These are packaged in a clear-cover plastic compact and contain almost double the amount of product as the average eyeshadow (0.11 oz. vs. 0.05 oz.).

Milani Eyeshadow Shocking Pink
10
Product
10
Pigmentation
10
Texture
9
Longevity
5
Application
98%
Total

Chanel Peche Cuivre Le Crayon Khol

Chanel Peche Cuivre Le Crayon Khol
Chanel Peche Cuivre Le Crayon Khol

Chanel Peche Cuivre Le Crayon Khol

Chanel Peche Cuivre Le Crayon Khol ($28.00 for 0.05 oz.) is a golden peach with a subtly metallic finish. It’s actually very similar to Giorgio Armani’s #5 Copper from the holidays–it might be the faintest bit darker.  This shade is one that is best as a brightener–it’s the kind of hue that works really well on the water line to wake up peepers, but the texture of this doesn’t lend itself to comfortable application on the water line.

The formula is supposed to have “rich, intense” color with a “semi-matte finish.” It is also listed as safe for usage on the rim of the eye. Each of Chanel’s pencil eyeliners comes with its own sharpener. The color applies mostly opaque in one pass, but it requires a lot of pressure to get it to apply evenly in one go. I’m not keen on the hard, dry texture of the pencil; it feels rough against the lash line. It will pull and tug noticeably, and I ended up having to go back and forth several times rather than exert more pressure as it wasn’t comfortable to use otherwise.

This color may be most striking on deeper skin tones, because on my complexion, it just gets lost.  It only wore for six hours before looking faded; this combined with the harder texture makes this a disappointment.  Chanel’s Le Crayon Yeux is a much better formula, so I was really shocked at how different (in a bad way) this formula was.  Eyeliners really need to be soft, provide good color payoff, and wear long and well.  I think there are too many stellar eyeliner formulas on the market to make excuses for under-performers.

Chanel Le Crayon Khol Intense Eye Pencil Peche Cuivre
6.5
Product
8.5
Pigmentation
5
Texture
6.5
Longevity
3
Application
66%
Total

Chanel Sirocco Glossimer

Chanel Sirocco Glossimer
Chanel Sirocco Glossimer

Chanel Sirocco Glossimer

Chanel Sirocco Glossimer ($29.50 for 0.19 oz.) might look like a soft peachy gold in the tube, but it’s virtually colorless on the lips. The base is mostly clear on my lips with a fine dusting of pale peach shimmer–it’s very subtle, barely-there shimmer. From afar, it looks like I’m wearing clear gloss or some shiny lip balm. The dupes are endless! Any gloss that has a tiny bit of shimmer but is otherwise clear will do.

Chanel’s signature gloss formula is supposed to deliver shimmer and “high-shine glow” with shades that range from “sheer and natural” to “sparkling and rich.” The formula is supposed to be both comfortable and long-wearing. Though it can be hard to make the distinction, there is a line between sheer and clear. If you want a comfortable, hydrating product that doesn’t have any color, I think you ought to opt for lip balm, which will do a better job at moisturizing your lips.  This is just too close to clear to be “sheer and natural” to me.  Maybe if there was more shimmer or even the slightest tint to the base color it would reach a level of sheer that makes sense.

I totally get the appeal of Glossimers; they can be really dazzling and sparkling, nearly breathtaking in the sunlight, but this lacks the shimmer that gives that effect.  I’m a fan of the formula, generally speaking, but some of the more recent releases have been disappointing.  Sirocco lasts about two and a half hours before the shine is gone, and since there really isn’t any color, the rest of it appears to be gone, too.  The texture is thin without being too thin, comfortable, non-sticky, and keeps lips feeling good while its on.

Chanel Levres Scintillantes Glossimer Sirocco
Sirocco
Sirocco
7
Product
2
Pigmentation
9
Texture
4
Longevity
4
Application
58%
Total

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