Monday, December 15th, 2014

Tom Ford Kyril, William, Sebastian, Omar, Blake Lip Colors
Tom Ford Kyril, William, Sebastian, Omar, Blake Lip Colors

Tom Ford Lips & Boys Lipstick ($32.00 for 0.07 oz.) is segmented into color families, and this post features the “metallics.” Some of the colors are cool-looking, but I think the performance of the majority in the metallic family leave something to be desired. At this price point, you really should be getting near-perfection (if not perfection). There just shouldn’t be application issues like streakiness or patchiness. The only one I liked in this set was Sebastian, as it had the color payoff that was expected, but it wasn’t perfect, either.

Presently, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, and Saks are both accepting pre-orders for the Lips & Boys collection; they officially release on December 26th (and will also be at other retailers and Tom Ford’s website at that time). Nordstrom also put up various trios (no savings, they’re $96 each) for pre-order. Neiman Marcus has a gift card event thorugh 12/16 that includes the Lips & Boys.

The Lips & Boys shades seem a lot smaller than the full-sized Lip Colors in their tubes, but in terms of actual product, it’s 0.07 oz. vs. 0.10 oz. These are actually cheaper by the ounce at $457.14/oz. compared to $500/oz. for full-size. I liked that the packaging felt the same as full-sized, just smaller, but it didn’t feel cheapened. The bullet of lipstick itself was also wide enough at the base that it didn’t feel really skinny or difficult to use, and it wasn’t prone at breaking at the base as some miniature-sized lipsticks are.

Kyril Lipstick ($32.00 for 0.07 oz.) is a very light silvery-white with cool undertones and pearly shimmer. It’s semi-sheer and somewhat streaky. I don’t think that this feels or looks like a luxury lipstick on its own; it will work better layered, of course, but on its own, it’s disappointing. It lasted for two hours and was neither hydrating nor drying, though it had a fair amount of slip. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

William Lipstick ($32.00 for 0.07 oz.) is a muted, medium orange with lighter golden-copper shimmer and a light metallic sheen. The finish is more like a matte frost, as it doesn’t have a lot of glossiness or shine, but there’s a fair amount of shimmer. It had semi-opaque color payoff but applied evenly. It lasted for three hours on me, but it was drying over time, and I could feel a bit of the shimmer after two hours of wear. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Sebastian Lipstick ($32.00 for 0.07 oz.) is a rich, coppery brown with warm, orange undertones and lighter golden orange shimmer. This one had more of a metallic sheen without being totally matte. It had rich, opaque color coverage that applied evenly and lasted for four and a half hours on me. It was neither drying nor hydrating. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Omar Lipstick ($32.00 for 0.07 oz.) is a deepened, copper-shimmered brown with warm, reddish-orange undertones and a metallic sheen. It’s really a darker version of Sebastian to me, though it’s not as shimmery and has weaker color payoff (semi-opaque). This one was lightly hydrating, though, and it still wore well for four and a half hours. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Blake Lipstick ($32.00 for 0.07 oz.) is a medium-dark plummy-brown with warm undertones and copper shimmer. I love the idea of this color, but in practice, it needed improvement (and at this price point, it should be top notch). It had a more emollient consistency, so the color didn’t go on as evenly and looked almost patchy. The color coverage was semi-sheer to semi-opaque in places, but it wasn’t as pigmented as Tom Ford’s Lip Color formula usually is. It wore well for four hours on me and was lightly hydrating. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

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Kyril

D

Product

6.5/10

Pigmentation

5/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

6.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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product

William

C+

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

4.5/5

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LE
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Sebastian

A-

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

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Monday, December 15th, 2014

ColourPop Feminist Lippie Stix
ColourPop Feminist Lippie Stix

ColourPop Feminist Lippie Stix ($5.00 for 0.0352 oz.) is described as a “black purple in a matte finish.” It’s a blackened purple with subtle, warm undertones and a satin finish. Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Pagan (P, $18.00) is cooler-toned. MAC Smoked Purple (LE, $16.00) is lighter. MAC Firm Form (LE, $16.00) is lighter, warmer. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The formula is supposed to be comfortable to wear and moisturizing, and then the coverage of the matte finishes is supposed to be full and extra long-wearing. It is intensely pigmented, and it lasted for eight hours, at which point I went to bed, but it left a significant stain behind (that was more fuchsia in nature). I wouldn’t consider this really a matte, as there is a decent shine to it that lingers for two to three hours before wearing down to a more matte finish. It is lightweight with a light creaminess; enough that it doesn’t drag or tug at the lips, but it doesn’t slide around. I was able to apply it fairly easily straight from the tube, but to get a really crisp edge (and it’s worth the extra step for a color like this), I’d still recommend a lip brush or going back in with concealer to clean-up the edges. It’s neither drying nor hydrating over time, and there’s a little tackiness to the color after a few hours, but it doesn’t seem to lift or disturb the color. The color is rich enough that it had no trouble surviving coffee and dinner. The formula seems to have a very subtle vanilla scent to me, but it isn’t noticeable once applied.

Worth noting, you don’t get a lot of product in the twist-up tube relative to your average lipstick tube (which is typically 0.10 oz. or 0.12 oz.), but it is more in line with similarly-packaged lip products (e.g. Bite Beauty’s Lip Crayons are 0.05 oz., NARS Pure Mattes are 0.07 oz., Tarte Power Pigments are 0.04 oz., Buxom True Nude Lip Foundations are 0.03 oz. and seem to have nearly identical packaging).

The Glossover

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Feminist

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Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

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Monday, December 15th, 2014

Revlon HD Fire Opal (560) Ultra HD Lip Lacquer
Revlon HD Fire Opal (560) Ultra HD Lip Lacquer

Revlon HD Fire Opal (560) Ultra HD Lip Lacquer ($8.99 for 0.20 fl. oz.) is a bold, brightened medium red with warm, orange undertones and a creamy, glossy finish. It was intensely pigmented with full color coverage that applied beautifully and evenly. This shade wore for almost six hours, but there was very light feathering after four and a half hours of wear (and I am not prone to feathering). Shiseido Lust (RD305) (P, $25.00) is sheerer. Laura Mercier Poppy (P, $25.00) is redder. Illamasqua Touch (P, $22.00) is more shimmery. Maybelline Signature Scarlet (020) (P, $8.99) is slightly redder. Revlon Fire (P, $7.49) is a smidgen darker, not quite as orange-toned. Illamasqua Temper (P, $22.00) is lighter. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Revlon HD Rose Quartz (530) Ultra HD Lip Lacquer ($8.99 for 0.20 fl. oz.) is medium, rosy red with lighter pink shimmer and warm undertones. It’s an interesting shade that sometimes looks richer, and other times, lighter, due to the contrast between the base color and color of the shimmer. It had a very smooth, metallic finish applied. The consistency is slightly tacky after an hour or so of wear, and the gloss lasted for five hours all in all. It was fully opaque on me. NARS Risky Business (P, $26.00) is similar in concept but so much sheerer. Chanel Friandise (82) (LE, $27.00) is sheerer. Dior Paradise (732) (P, $29.50) is sheerer. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Revlon HD Strawberry Topaz (535) Ultra HD Lip Lacquer ($8.99 for 0.20 fl. oz.) is a brightened, medium coral-pink with very fine gold pearl–the gold shimmer is subtle and isn’t noticeable from afar. It had nearly opaque color coverage that went fairly evenly and smoothly. The texture was slightly thick, lightly tacky to moderately tacky (as it wears), and lasted for five hours on me. Marc Jacobs Beauty Gone Bad (216) (P, $28.00) is more orange, less shimmery. Dior Rose Tricheuse (669) (LE, $35.00) is more muted, less shimmery. Hourglass Muse (P, $28.00) is brighter, less shimmery. NARS Paris Follies (LE, $26.00) is more muted. MAC Drawn in Chic (LE, $15.00) is lighter. Marc Jacobs Beauty Paint It (202) (P, $28.00) is lighter. Revlon Papaya (P, $7.49) is more muted, lighter. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

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HD Fire Opal (560)

A-

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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product

HD Rose Quartz (530)

A

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

5/5

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HD Strawberry Topaz (535)

A

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Sunday, December 14th, 2014

ColourPop I Heart This Super Shock Shadow
ColourPop I Heart This Super Shock Shadow

ColourPop I Heart This Super Shock Shadow ($5.00 for 0.07 oz.) is described as a “cool-toned silvery taupe.” It’s a brightened, light-medium gold with a metallic, sparkly finish. It had excellent color payoff with a very smooth consistency. It had a lot of fall out during application (if you blend it at all, expect fall out), and then I had some fall out during wear (noticeable but not terrible) but no creasing or fading for ten hours. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

ColourPop Tinsel Super Shock Shadow ($5.00 for 0.07 oz.) is described as a “grayed out icy lavender [with a Metallic finish].” It’s a plummy brown with warm undertones and a metallic sheen. It had semi-opaque color payoff both swatched and applied to the lid, though it was buildable with two to three layers patted on. The texture was very smooth, though. It looked the same ten hours later as when I first applied it. It is part of the Not a Box of Chocolates limited edition set. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

ColourPop Lectra Super Shock Shadow ($5.00 for 0.07 oz.) is described as a “deepened burgundy with pink violet glitter [with a Metallic finish].” It’s a medium-dark, plummy purple with warm, reddish undertones and lighter violet sparkle. It doesn’t read metallic to me–more like a satin with sparkle, but the sparkle is actually present on the lid due to the cream formula. It had great pigmentation that went on smoothly and evenly on the lid. I had slight fall out over time, but the eyeshadow itself didn’t crease or fade over a ten-hour period.
It is part of the Megan Naik foursome. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

ColourPop Farah Super Shock Shadow ($5.00 for 0.07 oz.) is described as a “deep brown [with a Matte finish].” It’s a medium-dark brown with warm, yellow undertones and a satin finish. There’s a subtle sheen to it that keeps it from being totally flat, but it doesn’t have a lot of shine. It had good pigmentation and a very smooth, even application. I didn’t have any issues with fading or creasing over ten hours. It is part of the Megan Naik foursome. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

ColourPop Onai Super Shock Shadow ($5.00 for 0.07 oz.) is described as a “creamy white with blue violet opalescent duochrome [with a Satin finish].” It’s a light beige with a hint of warmth and a pearly sheen. I didn’t get much of a duochrome with this, though. It had fairly good color payoff with a blendable, smooth texture. It wore well for ten hours. It is part of the Megan Naik foursome. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

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product

I Heart This

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
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LE
product

Tinsel

A-

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

7.5/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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product

Lectra

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Sunday, December 14th, 2014

Kevyn Aucoin Sculpting Medium/Candlelight The Creamy Glow Duo
Kevyn Aucoin Sculpting Medium/Candlelight The Creamy Glow Duo

Kevyn Aucoin Sculpting Medium/Candlelight The Creamy Glow Duo ($28.00 for 0.16 oz.) is a highlighting and contouring set of shades in a cream formula. I think this will be nice on medium and fairer skin tones, with it being subtler on medium-dark skin tones. The contouring shade may be too subtle on deeper skin tones, though the highlight should be lovely. I was impressed by the long-wear, because both shades have a creamy, thin, emollient consistency that just doesn’t seem like something that would have any longevity, but there they were, nearly eight hours later with both color and a light sheen. (I have normal skin at the moment, for reference.) The contouring shade just made me long to try The Sculpting Powder to see how it works with the Celestial Powder. My only complaint is that actual pans are quite small, and it was difficult to use any of my angled contouring brushes as they were all oversized. I ended up flattening my brushes between my fingers and focused on getting the product primarily on one side of the brush.

Sculpting Medium is a medium-dark brown with yellow undertones and a subtle gray overtone with a satin-matte finish.
Kevyn Aucoin Tropical Days (P, $48.00) is much more shimmery, powder. MAC Matte Bronze (LE, $70.00) is warmer. MAC Sculpt (P, $16.50) is warmer, powder. Too Faced Chocolate Soleil (P) is powder. MAC Pure Sculpture (LE, $20.00) is warmer. Becca Lowlight (P, $38.00) is warmer. MAC Coffee Walnut (LE, $20.00) is more olive, darker. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Candlelight is a champagne gold with a luminous sheen and very, very fine shimmer. It translates to a dewy glow on the skin that works as well on bare skin as it did layered over foundation (even when already set with powder). Burberry Nude Radiance No. 01 (P, $48.00) is sheerer. MAC Born to Dazzle (LE) is more sparkly. Chanel Camelia de Plumes (LE, $76.00) is cooler-toned. Tarte Champagne (LE) is warmer. NARS 413 BLKR (P, $30.00) is more metallic, warmer. Giorgio Armani Belladonna (LE, $88.00) is a smidgen warmer. Kevyn Aucoin Candlelight (P, $44.00) is lighter (I think the effect is similar, but the cream version runs more golden). Becca Moonstone (P, $38.00) is similar but a powder. theBalm Solid Gold (P, $24.00) is more metallic. Illamasqua Aurora (P, $24.00) is a smidgen less golden. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

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palette

Sculpting Medium/Candlelight

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
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P
product

Sculpting Medium

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
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product

Candlelight

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Sunday, December 14th, 2014

SUQQU Brushes
SUQQU Brushes

SUQQU may not be the most accessible brand yet (here’s hoping they’ll expand to a good stockist in the U.S.), but they live up to the hype and are lovely brushes for those who wish to indulge. I can see why the Cheek brush is constantly out of stock at Selfridges. I know readers have recommended Ichibankao for ordering Asia-exclusive beauty brands, and they also have SUQQU brushes available (but I haven’t personally ordered from them, though I have been tempted!). I have no complaints; they’re outstanding, high-quality brushes. I’ve been putting them through testing since October, and I haven’t had any issues with shedding, smell, or re-shaping after washing. I’ve washed all of the brushes numerous times since then, and they’re still as soft and silky as they were to begin with. The shapes are well-done–more distinct from many brushes I own but they’re still useful, versatile shapes that I can easily use.

SUQQU Cheek Brush (£80.00 / ¥15,000) is a small, rounded blush brush that flares outwards from the ferrule and then tapers to a rounded edge. It is made out of gray squirrel hair, and it is supremely soft, silky, and smooth against the skin. No matter the direction or pressure, the brush never felt rough or sharp. It had moderate density with a feathery quality to it, which made it particularly suitable for use with more pigmented or very soft-textured powder products. This is useful if you’re more heavy-handed when applying your blush, even if you don’t mean to be, as it is hard to overdo your cheek color with this brush. It works well to blend and soften edges of various powder products for cheeks and face. I really liked it for highlight, though, as it gave me similar results that I get with a fan brush but with more precision–diffused, luminous, but never metallic.

  • Sizing: 34mm in length, 19mm in width, 15mm in thickness (it’s round); total length of 15.5 centimeters.
  • Most similar: Chikuhodo Z-4 is similar in its smaller size, but it is wider and flatter (thinner) with less roundedness; where the Z-4 looks more like a blush brush, SUQQU Cheek looks more like a highlighting brush

SUQQU Face Brush (£168.00 / ¥30,000) is a large, rounded powder brush that tapers slightly at the edges and rounds out at the top. It’s dense without being fully packed (it’s not a kabuki brush), so there’s a light spring and give as it is swept across the skin. It feels like silk (even when I had my husband do the blind-softness-test, he described it as such, “It feels so silky, is that even possible with a brush?”) as the bristles move together. You just don’t feel the individual fibers at all. The fullness makes it ideal for dusting finishing and setting powders all over the face. I also liked it for diffusing the edges of a trickier blush or bronzer as well. It is made out of gray squirrel hair.

  • Sizing: 50mm in length, 36mm in width, 26mm in thickness (it’s round); total length of 13 centimeters.
  • Most similar: Chikuhodo Z-1 is slightly smaller, while Chikuhodo Z-9 is wider/flatter and a bit overall–they all feel the same in regards to softness.

SUQQU Eyeshadow Brush M (£48.00 / ¥8,000) is a medium-sized, domed brush with a very rounded edge. It’s like a much larger and wider take on a pencil brush or a really squat, densely-packed crease brush. It can apply quite a bit of color even though it’s made out of gray squirrel, if desired. There’s no doubt it’s one of the softest pencil-like brushes I’ve tried, as it swirls and taps, sweeps and blends and never, ever feels pointed. The bristles move together in a way that feels silky across the skin. Though it probably will make some cringe, but this is such a good shape and brush for applying cream eyeshadow into the crease, particularly for blending out the edges (I really liked it with Laura Mercier). I tend to favor other brushes for initial application and only use this as a buffing tool, just because it makes it cleaner when I use it for blending. It’s lovely for blending out powder eyeshadows as well, and it is nice for highlighting the inner tear duct/corner of the lid. I’ve also had good luck using it to buff out creamy concealers underneath the eye or tapping brightening powder underneath the eye.

  • Sizing: 12.5mm in length, 6mm in width, 6mm in thickness (it’s round); total length of 13 centimeters.
  • Most similar: Chikuhodo Z-10 is much more tapered towards the end and comes to more of a point; IT Cosmetics No. 105 is longer, so it has more spring, but it has a similarly-sized rounded edge (it is also a synthetic option)

SUQQU Lip Brush L (£32.00 / ¥6,500) is a thin, rectangular lip brush that can line, fill, and blend with great precision. Its greatest attribute is that it never feels sharp, even when using the edge get a really crisp line of color. The bristles are extremely well-cut so that you don’t get skips and drags, and they move together for the most part. I like that it doesn’t come to a defined, tapered point, which is one of the things I like least in lip brushes, and the length is nice, as it gives you enough real estate to get product on it and cover lips without it taking an eternity. All that said, I rarely use lip brushes, so I wouldn’t consider myself a lip brush authority, so please keep that in mind!

  • Sizing: 10mm in length, 6mm in width, 0.5mm in thickness (it’s round); total length of 17 centimeters.
  • Most similar: Hakuhodo 270 (I don’t have it) appears similar based on photo/listed measurements; Tom Ford also has a more rectangular-shaped brush

The Glossover

product

Cheek Brush

It had moderate density with a feathery quality to it, which made it particularly suitable for use with more pigmented or very soft-textured powder products. This is useful if you're more heavy-handed when applying your blush, even if you don't mean to be, as it is hard to overdo your cheek color with this brush.

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product

Face Brush

The fullness makes it ideal for dusting finishing and setting powders all over the face. I also liked it for diffusing the edges of a trickier blush or bronzer as well. It is made out of gray squirrel hair.

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product

Eyeshadow Brush M

It's like a much larger and wider take on a pencil brush or a really squat, densely-packed crease brush. It can apply quite a bit of color even though it's made out of gray squirrel, if desired. There's no doubt it's one of the softest pencil-like brushes I've tried, as it swirls and taps, sweeps and blends and never, ever feels pointed.

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