Tuesday, November 5th, 2013

Chanel Rouge Rubis Le Vernis Nail Lacquer
Chanel Rouge Rubis Le Vernis Nail Lacquer

Chanel Rouge Rubis Le Vernis Nail Lacquer ($27.00 for 0.34 fl. oz.) is described as a “vivid red.” It’s a brilliantly bright, medium red with neutral undertones–balanced between warm and cool. Sometimes it looks almost warm-toned, and then it would look cool-toned; it’s very well-balanced. The texture is more jelly than it is cream, and it had such a naturally high-shine finish. It was opaque in two coats.  I normally get a week of wear with Chanel’s polish (but almost nothing chips on me), though I know that Chanel’s formula can be hit or miss for many!

There are plenty of similar shades, since it is a rather opaque red! It really depends on whether you’re looking for a perfectly neutral red or don’t mind one that leans cool or warm. MAC RiRi Woo (LE, $16.00) is cooler-toned, cream. MAC Touch of Red (LE, $16.00) is similar. MAC Russian Red (LE, $16.00) is cooler-toned. MAC Flaming Rose (P, $16.00) is pinker. Guerlain Champs-Elysees (P, $23.00) is slightly pinker.Dior Marilyn (LE, $26.00) is darker. Cult Nails Evil Queen (P, $12.00) is very similar. China Glaze Hey Sailor (LE, $8.00) is cooler-toned. Zoya Sooki (P, $8.00) is warmer. Essie Silken Cord (LE, $8.00) is cooler-toned. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

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Rouge Rubis

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Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

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Dupes
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Monday, November 4th, 2013

Marc Jacobs Beauty Le Charm Enamored Hi-Shine Nail Lacquer
Marc Jacobs Beauty Le Charm Enamored Hi-Shine Nail Lacquer

Marc Jacobs Beauty Le Charm (112) Enamored Hi-Shine Nail Lacquer ($18.00 for 0.43 oz.) is described as a “rosy copper metallic shimmer.” It shifts between a soft, coppery peach and a more genuine rose gold–I found it to be a chameleon and really a color that changed depending on the angle, amount of light, and the color of the lighting. The finish was heavily frosted and metallic, so the dry down had some shine but a top coat would be recommended for a really great finish. There were a few, very, very subtle brush strokes that I could detect, but only if I looked closely and there was a lot of light. It was very nearly opaque after two coats. I went through other copper, orange, and peach-hued polishes that I’ve reviewed in the past, but I couldn’t find anything that was similar.

Petra (140) Enamored Hi-Shine Nail Lacquer ($18.00 for 0.43 oz.) is described as a “dirty bronze metallic shimmer.” It’s a cool-toned, purplish-gray taupe with copper and bronze metallic shimmer. I didn’t detect any brush strokes no matter the angle or lighting situation with this one, and it was fully opaque after two coats. If I was a normal person and reach for a color over and over again, I could easily see this becoming a go-to for fall/winter (I might, in fact, make it my go to for my toes this season at least!). I thought Illamasqua Facet (LE, $17.00) might be similar but it is lighter and warmer in a way. See comparison swatches.

So far, I’ve had good luck with Marc Jacobs’ formula in regards to wear–lasting between seven and ten days with minor tip wear but no chipping–but almost no formula chips on me. It did seem to wear slightly longer than the average polish did on me.  Both polishes had a nice consistency that wasn’t too thick or too thin, so both applied evenly, smoothly, and didn’t pool along the edges.  The more metallic finish also helped both shades dry faster than the average polish.

The Glossover

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Le Charm (112)

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Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
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P
product

Petra (140)

A+

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Sunday, November 3rd, 2013

Cult Nails Grunge Nail Lacquer
Cult Nails Grunge Nail Lacquer

Cult Nails Grunge Nail Lacquer ($12.00 for 0.50 fl. oz.) is described as a “military green creme.” It’s a light-medium, muted green with subtle, almost cool, undertones and a cream finish. It’s incredibly pigmented–it was almost totally opaque in a single coat. It dried down to a lightly shiny finish, and the consistency wasn’t too thick or too thin. If every polish was like this, our wallets would be doomed–it’s so, so well-formulated. Zoya Gemma (P, $8.00) is darker. Zoya Bevin (P, $8.00) is less green, cooler-toned. See comparison swatches.

Wack Slacks Nail Lacquer ($12.00 for 0.50 fl. oz.) is described as a “bold blue creme.” It’s a rich, medium-dark blue with a purple tinge and a cream finish. Like Grunge, this was incredibly pigmented–this was opaque in one coat, but I did two coats for the swatches. The consistency was nicely balanced, not too thick or too thin, and spread evenly across the nail without streaking. It might be one of the best cream polishes I’ve ever used. Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Pond (P, $10.00) is bluer, brighter. MAC Blue Gaze (LE, $16.00) is darker. MAC Breezy Blue (LE, $16.00) is similar. Deborah Lippmann I Know What Boys Like (LE, $19.00) is sheerer, slightly bluer. See comparison swatches.

Feedback Nail Lacquer ($12.00 for 0.50 fl. oz.) is described as a “soft gold, pink, orange mylar flakes.” It’s as described: a mix of gold, pink, and orange flakes that shimmer and reflect as the light hits them. The consistency of the polish is very, very thick–almost gel-like–and the best application seemed to be pushing and pulling the polish into place. One coat has enough flakes that only one coat is necessary for topping your favorite nail color. I haven’t used a lot of flakey top coats like this, but so far, I haven’t been a big fan. Cult Nails Walk of Shame (P, $12.00) doesn’t have flakes and looks darker overall. Cult Nails Happy Ending (LE, $12.00) is multi-colored but is similar with respect to the shapes. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

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product

Grunge

A+

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
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P
product

Wack Slacks

A+

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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P
product

Feedback

C+

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

6/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

3/5

Results
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Wednesday, October 30th, 2013

 

Chanel Rose Moire Le Vernis
Chanel Rose Moire Le Vernis

Chanel Rose Moire Le Vernis ($27.00 for 0.40 fl. oz.) is a pale, light pink with a neutral undertone–almost gray-ish–and a metallic shimmer/finish. I had a lot of visible brush strokes that didn’t seem to go away no matter the application or how long I waited for the polish to dry down. It was opaque after two coats, and the consistency felt right, but the end result was still riddled with brush strokes. I normally get a week of wear with Chanel’s formula with minimal tip wear and no chipping. Rescue Beauty Lounge Plie (LE, $20.00) is a cream. Zoya Pandora (P, $8.00) is darker, less metallic. Deborah Lippmann Glamorous Life (LE, $19.00) is similar–a bit warmer, though. See comparison swatches.

Rouge Moire Le Vernis ($27.00 for 0.40 fl. oz.) is a medium-dark, cool-toned red with ruby red shimmer and a slightly metallic finish. You can see the threads of metallic ruby shimmer running through the polish, so there are noticeable brush strokes. They weren’t as noticeable as they were with Rose Moire, but they were there. The color was opaque with two coats of polish, and the consistency wasn’t too thick or too thin. Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Black Metal Dahlia (P, $10.00) is much darker. Le Metier de Beaute Dynasty (LE, $10.00) is similar, slightly darker. China Glaze Ahoy (LE, $8.00) is pinker, less metallic. Zoya Blaze (P, $8.00) has a different finish. Butter London Blowing Raspberries (P, $15.00) is a cream. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

LE
product

Rose Moire

B

Product

6.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Dupes
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LE
product

Rouge Moire

B+

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Sunday, October 27th, 2013

NARS x Guy Bourdin Color Collection
NARS x Guy Bourdin Color Collection

Update:  I have added photos, swatches, and dupes for the products from the NARS x Guy Bourdin Gifting Collection.  The majority of the shades included in the Gifting collection are permanent to NARS’ color range. To ensure context, I’ve added them to the existing post, rather than make a separate post.  My goal is to raise awareness, open the channel for discussion (I highly recommend reading through readers’ comments and viewpoints), and to respect each reader’s autonomy and decision-making.  I strongly believe that we each must do our own research and come to the conclusion that feels right to us, whatever that may be.  Thank you for your continued support, respect, and understanding!

When the NARS x Guy Bourdin collaboration was first announced, I felt my readers’ excitement. I knew nothing about Bourdin, and having little interest in fashion photography, I didn’t look to learn any more than what was being widely reported. I’m here for the makeup, not the collaborators or inspiration or names, so when I see a new collection, I want to know what’s in it, what the colors are going to be, what the formulas and textures will feel like. It was not until I saw more and more readers comment on Bourdin and his emphasis on violence in his work, particularly of what seems to be best categorized as “high fashion crime scenes,” that I knew I needed to look a little further than the press release.

Warning:  This post contains discussion about violence against women, so please be warned that the discussion that follows and comments on the post may be a potentially triggering.

Bourdin’s body of work is not solely centered around violence as he also explored other themes like surrealism and sexuality. There are shots of vibrant, thriving women in his work; it is not all dark but certainly a good deal of his work is, and more to the point, many of his more controversial shots are more famous (which is not a surprise). I suggest visiting his website and browsing through his portfolio of photos–beware that some are more graphic than others–and in particular, the “Beauty” section showcases a different side of his work. There is no question that Bourdin was an artist, and he is legendary in his sphere.

I fully respect NARS’ decision to collaborate with someone who has influenced Francois Nars not just today but for years; that Bourdin was his inspiration for becoming a makeup artist is just how telling of the type and scope of impact Bourdin had on the industry as a whole. I don’t just see in black and white, which is not always a comforting thing, and I enjoy challenging people’s opinions and playing devil’s advocate. It has always been important to me to avoid mixing my personal beliefs (on such hot topics as sex, politics, religion, etc.) with the blog, because Temptalia is not just your escape but mine. This is the first time where how I feel has put me in such a quandary as to how to react.  First and foremost, I am abstaining from reviewing the NARS and Guy Bourdin collection, because I cannot fully dissociate how I feel about Bourdin’s art from a collection intended to pay tribute to him.

The idea that an advertisement or runway photoshoot that features dead women in designer clothing and shoes is used to sell to people is hard for me to wrap my head around. I am particularly sensitive to the concept of glamorizing violence, against women or men, because I worry it normalizes it in a way that makes us react less to a very real and prevalent issue not just in the U.S. but globally. Bourdin has passed away for some time now, so all of the visuals that showcase Bourdin’s work are images he previously shot, so none of them were originally intended to sell NARS’ makeup specifically (or possibly makeup at all, but you’d have to really go back through and figure out where each photo originated from). Many of the selected images for the NARS collaboration are not controversial or violent but some are certainly up for interpretation.

There’s an informative interview with Susan B. Carbon, Director of the U.S. DOJ’s Office, Violence Against Women, which also includes sobering statistics about the level of violence women experience (with sources cited). It speaks on and illuminates as to why violence against women is a real issue that we should be talking about, understanding, researching, and creating the resources, community, and culture that both prevents and reduces the violence that occurs (and we can do more than just prevent/reduce violence against women but all people). We, as a society, have made strides towards these goals, but we can do more and we should do more–and we need to remember to think globally on behalf of all women.

Here are some resources for learning more about this issue:

I have spent the past week and a half soul-searching and doing as much as I can to learn more about Bourdin, not just from those that feel similarly to me, but those who have assessed his work from an artistic point of view, to determine if I was still going to post photos/swatches. My focus was on his work, not him as a person.  We all want to be taken as the sum of our parts, not merely one part out of many, which is why I really wanted to take time to assess, digest, and react. I found this essay about the evolution of the “crime scene photograph” into news, fashion, and art a very good read. I understand that not everyone who views Bourdin’s work feels he glamorized violence against women or even if taken as true, is able to find other qualities of his work (lighting, colors, angles, composition, etc.) admirable as an artist or perhaps argue it is a statement on our own curiosity for the morbid or even the fashion industry and its consumptive nature. I have read various reactions, arguments for and against, from both outside sources as well as from readers in our community.

To that end, I respect each reader’s opinion, whether for or against.  So in a show of respect for a broad range of opinions, while I will not review or otherwise recommend the collection personally, you will find full photos and swatches of the products featured in the color collection for those who wanted to see them, and for those who did not want to purchase, I have included dupes for each shade that you may want to consider purchasing from instead.   From me to you, I wanted to use this time to also say, “Let’s not forget about what we can do to reduce violence against women.” In our consumption of controversial images, let’s not forget about the very real issues that real people face that the art seeks to recreate or transform.

I hope that you understand my decisions and know that they come from the heart after a lot of reflection, research, and reading. I urge you to do your own research and come to your own conclusions. All I want is us to ask questions and challenge what we’re seeing and being told (or sold) and go from there.

Update: Thank you SO, SO much from the bottom of my heart for the outpouring of support & understanding!  I am still reading through and responding to the incredible stories and comments that you have all left on this post, but I wanted to make sure everyone knows how meaningful your feedback and response has been! Thank you!

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Friday, October 25th, 2013

MAC RiRi Woo Nail Lacquer
MAC RiRi Woo Nail Lacquer

MAC RiRi Woo Nail Lacquer ($17.50 for 0.34 fl. oz.) is described as a “matte cool red [with a Cream finish].” It’s a brightened, medium red with cool, blue undertones and a cream finish. It was extremely pigmented–almost totally opaque in one coat–and was fully opaque in two coats. The consistency wasn’t too thick or too thin, so it spread across the nail easily and didn’t pool along the edges. I typically get a week of wear out of MAC’s polish–usually where MAC polish goes downhill is with the consistency or application, but RiRi Woo applied well and looked great.  Because it is a red cream, it’s easier to dupe, though.  Chanel Cinema (P, $27.00) is similar. MAC Russian Red (LE, $16.00) is similar. MAC Flaming Rose (P, $16.00) is a touch darker. See comparison swatches.

The MAC x RiRi Hearts MAC Holiday Collection launches in December. I don’t have a specific date yet, and as soon as I do, you’ll see me update the collection’s official information post. Your best bet is to catch me on Twitter or Facebook, as I usually make a mention on social media first :)

The Glossover

LE
product

RiRi Woo

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
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