Monday, January 13th, 2014

Urban Decay Ultra Definition Loose Finishing Powder
Urban Decay Ultra Definition Loose Finishing Powder

Urban Decay Ultra Definition Loose Finishing Powder ($34.00 for 0.28 oz.) is a new (and permanent) product being added to the Naked Skin range this spring. It’s supposed to be a “silky, weightless formula” that gives a “luminous, demimatte Naked finish” while setting makeup, reducing shining, and blurring flaws. There are five shades in the formula (see this post for Urban Decay’s recommendations).

It’s an incredibly finely-milled loose powder; it almost melts into skin because it is so, so fine. It feels like silk, and it blends and disappears into skin seamlessly. No matter how much I applied, it never looked powdery or cakey. My skin looked nearly flawless after applying this, and it mattified a good deal, but it didn’t leave my skin looking dull or flat.  The effect is quite lovely, especially for anyone who is looking to minimize the appearance of their pores, as this powder does an excellent job of blurring and smoothing the skin.  It’s a very breathable, featherweight formula, too, so it doesn’t feel heavy or like you’re wearing powder at all.  As a setting powder, it extends the wear of my foundation by an hour to an hour and a half and does minimize how much shine comes through overall.

I used Medium Light, which looks a bit darker than Medium to me. The differences between Medium Light, Medium, and Medium Dark are very slight; Light is definitely lighter than the rest, and Dark is several shades darker than Medium Dark.  I even swatched Medium Light and Medium next to each other, and there’s almost no difference in lightness/darkness, just that Medium Light has a stronger yellow undertone, which is hard to see except at a very severe angle under bright light. Each shade is very forgiving, as they are translucent (as described), so the color looks invisible on skin.

Compared to the Pressed Finishing Powder, I think these allow for a more natural finish, probably because of the loose consistency, it applies less as you go along than with the pressed. The Pressed is slightly more matte in finish when applied, and it seems to have a stronger tint/amount of coverage (though still sheer).

The Glossover

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Ultra Definition Loose Finishing Powder

Temptalia Recommends
A+

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Thursday, January 2nd, 2014

Guerlain Clair (02) Meteorites Pearls
Guerlain Clair (02) Meteorites Pearls

Guerlain Clair (02) Meteorites Pearls ($60.00 for 0.88 oz.) is described as a “harmony of green … white … and champagne pearls.” Clair (02) contains “green pearls for extra redness correction,” along with “white pearls to reflect the light” and “champagne pearls to adapt to the skin and gently illuminate it.” It also contains three colors that are the base of all the Meteorites (mauve, pink, and yellow). In general, this combination of colors and the way the powder swatches and applies to the skin, it seemed rather brightening. It softened the look of skin (primarily by smoothing out pores), brightened, and added a very, very subtle radiance.

The effect is lovely, and I’ve been a long-time fan of the Meteorites range; as they always improve the look of the skin and making skin appear healthier, more radiant, smoother, and lovelier.  It works best as a finishing powder–it’s not a traditional highlighter, and it’s not a setting powder.  If you use a setting powder or more matte foundation, finishing powders help to add back some of the luminosity that gets lost by a more matte finish without leaving the skin looking too dewy.  If you go on in wanting something to highlight cheek bones and high planes of the face, you’ll be disappointed. This gets dusted all-over the face.  I would say skip the Meteorites brush; I will do a review of the revamped brush released for spring later on, but in short, it’s unnecessary for applying Meteorites, and I thought it was a little rough/scratchy.

Guerlain has re-released their famous Meteorites Pearls with their Meteorites Blossom Collection. The formula and packaging have both undergone a revamp. The tin has the same size, shape, and feel as the last iteration released in 2010–the embellishments and patterns are different. The formula is supposed to have “softer” pearls that “allow for an even easier application and a more visible effect with every brush stroke.” There are three shades, this one, along with Medium (03) and Dore (04). I only have Clair (02), but I wasn’t able to find any noticeable or visible differences (for better or worse).

This seems to replace Teint Rose. Worth noting is that they were previously priced at $58 and contained 1.05 oz. and now are $60 a pop and only 0.88 oz., which is a squeeze on both ends. I didn’t notice any difference between Clair (02) and Teint Rose; the texture, feel, appearance–all the same. In general, Meteorites, once applied, tend to look more similar than not. On very fair skin, any differences may be more amplified but still quite subtle, and on deeper skin tones, any of the more brightening shades may have a tendency to look chalky or ashy.

The Glossover

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Clair (02)

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Thursday, November 21st, 2013

Guerlain Les Voilettes Translucent Compact Powder
Guerlain Les Voilettes Translucent Compact Powder

Guerlain Les Voilettes Translucent Compact Powder ($56.00 for 0.22 oz.) is described as an “ultra-absorbent blend [that] perfectly sets makeup and adorns skin in a matte veil.” It’s a sheer, tinted powder that mattifies the skin–my skin looks like the smoothest velvet after applying over foundation. The texture is incredibly finely-milled, silky smooth, and blends easily across the skin.  I used shade Medium, and it only comes in four shades–Light, Intense, and Dore are the other three.

I’ve used it primarily with Guerlain Tenue de Perfection, and it increased the longevity of that foundation by two to three hours. The most stunning aspect of this powder is really how much smoother and pore-less the skin looked after applying a light veil of product. This powder is a touch darker than my skin tone, but as the foundation I often used it with was slightly too light for me, the two worked perfectly together to give me a really nice shade match. (This is also something I’ve done in the past with Guerlain’s Les Voilettes loose powder.) It’s a very close match to my arm when I swatched it, so it may be difficult to see it there, but I think you can easily just how smooth and velvety this makes the skin look in the photos below, which is really what its purpose.

The Glossover

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product

Medium

Temptalia Recommends
A+

It's a sheer, tinted powder that mattifies the skin--my skin looks like the smoothest velvet after applying over foundation. The texture is incredibly finely-milled, silky smooth, and blends easily across the skin. It photographs exceptionally well, too.

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Thursday, November 7th, 2013

Clarins Graphic Expression Face & Blush Powder Palette
Clarins Graphic Expression Face & Blush Powder Palette

Clarins Graphic Expression Face & Blush Powder Palette ($35.00 for 0.30 oz.) is described as a series of “tinted powders,” and according to the brand, they’re applied “over entire face to softly highlight” and “the coral pink shade [can be applied] to cheeks to create a healthy-looking glow.”

The small stripe of coral-pink is very small–it’s just not practical to use sections of the palette but rather all the shades swirled together. When swirled together, the resulting shade is a soft, peachy-beige with neutral-to-warm undertones and a mostly matte finish. The texture incredibly soft, finely-milled, and silky.  MAC Love, Rihanna (LE, $25.00) is darker, warmer. MAC Bareness (LE, $25.00) is pinker. MAC Blazing Haute (LE, $25.00) is slightly darker, more shimmery. MAC Peaceful (LE, $24.00) is more orange. Dior Pink Glow Bronzer (LE) is warmer, darker. See comparison swatches.

On fairer complexions, I could see this working as a subtle, easy-going bronzer. On my medium complexion, I can get a light coloring on my cheeks if packed on, but otherwise it just helps to even out my skin tone. In the photo, I applied it all over lightly and then patted onto the apples of cheeks as a “blush.” It wore well for eight and a half hours, and it did seem to help prolong the wear of my foundation slightly (by about a half hour) as it was also applied all-over the face.

The Glossover

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product

Graphic Expression

A-

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Friday, October 18th, 2013

Guerlain Crazy Meteorites Radiance Powder
Guerlain Crazy Meteorites Radiance Powder

Guerlain Crazy Meteorites Radiance Powder ($69.00 for 0.35 oz.) is a pale, pearlescent pink-tinged translucent powder. It brightens and adds a subtle luminosity to the skin all-over. It also extended the wear of my foundation by an hour and a half, though that’s more of a bonus, as the brand’s description says nothing about improving wear.  The pan uses a combination of pink, beige, lavender, and mint green, but the effect of the color swirled is a pale, cool-toned pink. I think the effect is comparable to Hourglass Mood Light, perhaps a bit more luminous.

Technically, Guerlain labels this as a “Radiance Powder” for the face, whereas past iterations of the pressed Meteorites formula are “Exceptional Pressed Powder.” This even contains significantly more product at 0.35 oz., as compared to 0.26 oz. for the Meteorites Voyage / Exceptional Pressed Powders. I really couldn’t detect any difference in texture or effect between the two formulas. Except the most obvious: more bang for your buck, because the permanent Mythic will cost you $55 just for the pan ($170 for the compact and pan). It brightens, softens the look of skin, and adds back a natural luminosity that gives skin a natural look. It works all-over, and on my medium complexion, it didn’t look chalky despite its cooler pink tone. Like other Guerlain powders, it is violet-scented.

I bought this when it popped up late last week on Nordstrom, because ever since falling in love with Wulong (last year’s Meteorites compact) and finding Mythic (part of the permanent range) equally impressive, I knew that there would be no way I’d skip this year’s. I’m glad I didn’t, because here’s why Meteorites are addictive: when I walked by my husband after applying this all over my face, he said, “Hey, you look really beautiful right now.” This after having passed him a dozen or more times, and all I had on was foundation and then used the Crazy Meteorites all-over to set and finish (no eyeshadow, blush, or lip color). I kid you not, as I was working through other swatches, he came over so he could look upon my beauty. So yes, Crazy Meteorites might make people go crazy around you.

The Glossover

LE
product

Crazy Meteorites

A+

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Saturday, October 12th, 2013

Hourglass Ambient Lighting Palette
Hourglass Ambient Lighting Palette

Hourglass Ambient Lighting Palette ($58.00 for 0.35 oz.) contains three shades of the brand’s Ambient Lighting Powders. The three shades include Dim Light and Radiant Light, both which are part of the permanent range, and a new (and limited edition) shade called Incandescent Light. Each shade is 0.116 oz. in size, compared to the full-sized compact which contains 0.35 oz. At a $45 price point for individual shades, the palette is a nice way to try the new powders and have multiple shades to choose from.  You do also get a 0.16 oz. vial of Veil Mineral Primer (worth about $8), which I’ve reviewed here. It’s not a value-packed palette in terms of price-per-ounce (total value of the palette is $53, including the primer), but getting a variety of shades of a product that is quite pricey individually may be worth it–it will take awhile to get through these pans even at this size.

Dim Light is described as a “neutral peach beige powder.” It’s a pale, light beige with neutral to warm undertones and a very subtle satin shimmer/sheen. The color is barely visible against my skin tone when layered heavily (to show color), and it blends out seamlessly without making me look any darker or lighter. I applied this all over my face like a setting/finishing powder with Hourglass’ Ambient Lighting Brush. I couldn’t think of anything I have that’s quite like this and in this shade. The closest product that I’m familiar with is Guerlain’s Meteorites Voyage Powders, which are more translucent and sheerer. According to Hourglass, the main purpose of Dim Light is to blur imperfections–which it does admirably.

Incandescent Light is described as a “pearlescent powder.” It’s a pale, light beige with neutral undertones and a soft ivory shimmer. It’s a bit different from the other Ambient Light powders, because it is a lot more shimmery, and Hourglass is positioning it to “highlight cheekbones and [brighten] the complexion with a celestial glow.” It works well for illuminating the skin where it is applied, and the shimmer doesn’t emphasize pores or make the skin appear oily. Urban Decay Naked (P, $29.00) is more sparkly. Kevyn Aucoin Candlelight (P, $44.00) is similar but a smidgen warmer. NARS Debbie Harry Highlighter (LE, $29.00) is lighter. See comparison swatches.

Radiant Light is described as a “golden beige powder.” I reviewed it here when it was originally released. The purpose of Radiant Light is to had subtle warmth; very pale complexions will see this work more obviously on their skin tone than medium or deeper complexions. You can see some comparison swatches</> against Chanel Lucky Stripes, which is much more golden and darker (more of a bronzer on the skin) and NARS Miss Liberty, which is a bit more sparkly.

The Ambient Lighting Powders breathe life back into the skin after you’ve applied foundations and setting powders–especially if you have more mattifying base products on. They’re not full-on highlighters, but they’re not exactly setting powders (by Hourglass’ definition, they are finishing powders). If you have very oily skin, you may still need your usual setting powder, but for my normal-to-dry skin, the Ambient Lighting Powders work as a setting and finishing powder in one for me. I get extended wear out of my base products, but the powders also smooths the skin’s appearance, minimizes pores and imperfections, and gives the skin a natural luminosity (not shiny, not shimmery). It is that something extra that someone won’t see and go, “Oh, nice lipstick!” but “Did you do something different with your skin?” When people start asking you about your skincare routine, that’s when you know a product is really delivering on its promises! I’m not alone–there are 47 reader reviews with an overall rating of 4.5. The only negative I have to say about the products is that the texture is very, very soft, so depending on the brush you use, excess powder can be kicked up (and wasted).

If you were one of several readers wondering about my skin in my last NARS’ post, this palette is responsible as I wore Dim Light all over my face with Incandescent Light done the bridge of my nose and along the tops of my cheekbones as a highlighter.

The Glossover

LE
palette

Ambient Lighting (Holiday 2013)

A+

The Ambient Lighting Powders breathe life back into the skin after you've applied foundations and setting powders--especially if you have more mattifying base products on. It is that something extra that someone won't see and go, "Oh, nice lipstick!" but "Did you do something different with your skin?" When people start asking you about your skincare routine, that's when you know a product is really delivering on its promises!

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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P
product

Dim Light

A+

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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LE
product

Incandescent Light

A+

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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