Sunday, December 14th, 2014

Kevyn Aucoin Sculpting Medium/Candlelight The Creamy Glow Duo
Kevyn Aucoin Sculpting Medium/Candlelight The Creamy Glow Duo

Kevyn Aucoin Sculpting Medium/Candlelight The Creamy Glow Duo ($28.00 for 0.16 oz.) is a highlighting and contouring set of shades in a cream formula. I think this will be nice on medium and fairer skin tones, with it being subtler on medium-dark skin tones. The contouring shade may be too subtle on deeper skin tones, though the highlight should be lovely. I was impressed by the long-wear, because both shades have a creamy, thin, emollient consistency that just doesn’t seem like something that would have any longevity, but there they were, nearly eight hours later with both color and a light sheen. (I have normal skin at the moment, for reference.) The contouring shade just made me long to try The Sculpting Powder to see how it works with the Celestial Powder. My only complaint is that actual pans are quite small, and it was difficult to use any of my angled contouring brushes as they were all oversized. I ended up flattening my brushes between my fingers and focused on getting the product primarily on one side of the brush.

Sculpting Medium is a medium-dark brown with yellow undertones and a subtle gray overtone with a satin-matte finish.
Kevyn Aucoin Tropical Days (P, $48.00) is much more shimmery, powder. MAC Matte Bronze (LE, $70.00) is warmer. MAC Sculpt (P, $16.50) is warmer, powder. Too Faced Chocolate Soleil (P) is powder. MAC Pure Sculpture (LE, $20.00) is warmer. Becca Lowlight (P, $38.00) is warmer. MAC Coffee Walnut (LE, $20.00) is more olive, darker. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Candlelight is a champagne gold with a luminous sheen and very, very fine shimmer. It translates to a dewy glow on the skin that works as well on bare skin as it did layered over foundation (even when already set with powder). Burberry Nude Radiance No. 01 (P, $48.00) is sheerer. MAC Born to Dazzle (LE) is more sparkly. Chanel Camelia de Plumes (LE, $76.00) is cooler-toned. Tarte Champagne (LE) is warmer. NARS 413 BLKR (P, $30.00) is more metallic, warmer. Giorgio Armani Belladonna (LE, $88.00) is a smidgen warmer. Kevyn Aucoin Candlelight (P, $44.00) is lighter (I think the effect is similar, but the cream version runs more golden). Becca Moonstone (P, $38.00) is similar but a powder. theBalm Solid Gold (P, $24.00) is more metallic. Illamasqua Aurora (P, $24.00) is a smidgen less golden. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

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palette

Sculpting Medium/Candlelight

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
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P
product

Sculpting Medium

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
P
product

Candlelight

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Friday, May 16th, 2014

Guerlain Les Voilettes Translucent Loose Powder Mattifying Veil
Guerlain Les Voilettes Translucent Loose Powder Mattifying Veil

Guerlain Les Voilettes Translucent Loose Powder Mattifying Veil ($57.00 for 0.7 oz.) is supposed to be a mattifying, translucent loose powder and comes in three shades. I tried Medium, and it was darker than the previously-released variation on this product that I have (but I don’t think I ever got around to reviewing) in Medium, which was frustrating as a long-time customer (consistency is important, especially in foundation shades!). It seems darker than their medium liquid shades (like #03s), just as a heads up, but it is a good match for Joli Teint’s Natural. I wish they had more shades available as well (there is one lighter and one darker).

The powder is very silky and finely-milled, and it sits nicely on the skin without looking powdery, caked on, or unnatural. It goes on effortlessly over cream and liquid foundations, and it helps to set everything in place. It seems like my base makeup lasts about an hour longer if I use this palette, compared to not using one. The powder instantly mattifies the skin and toning down any natural luminosity that comes through, so it’s ideal for someone who wants a very matte finish, but it does darken the color of my foundation (because the Medium shade is too dark for me), so it will add color. It helps the skin look softer and smoother–pores really get de-emphasized with it on–but I think the pressed version does an even better job. The packaging is overly large–they could scale it back to make it more travel-friendly and easier to store in your drawers! I’ve also had trouble keeping it open/closed so that it doesn’t explode powder half the time I open it (I feel like it never actually closes), which isn’t an issue with the previously-released version (same packaging!). It makes getting the right amount to apply quite difficult and renders using the included powder puff unusable (which is how Guerlain says to apply it), as it leads to over-application.

The Glossover

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product

Medium

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
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Thursday, May 15th, 2014

Guerlain Terracotta Joli Teint Foundation
Guerlain Terracotta Joli Teint Foundation

Guerlain Terracotta Joli Teint Foundation ($53.00 for 1.0 fl. oz.) is described as lightweight, imparting a “radiant glow,” and is supposed to “work as a base prior to [applying] Terracotta Bronzing Powder.” The whole idea is that it’s supposed to help the skin look warmer, radiant, and smoother. It’s available in five shades, and the one I tried was Natural, which appears to be the second in the range.

The coverage is light to light-medium, which seems to be in line with Guerlain’s description of “appearing make-up-free.” The consistency is somewhere between a thicker liquid and a thinner cream, so it is able to spread and blend out on the skin without feeling heavy, but it isn’t quite as spreadable as their other liquid foundations (in glass bottles). I feel like I end up using more product with this formula to get an even layer all over the skin. Applied, it gives my skin a more even, smoother-looking appearance while also darkening and warming up my natural complexion. The finish was very natural-looking; not totally matte but not really luminous or dewy. You’ll want to ensure you blend down your neck, as this is adding warmth and slightly darkening the skin tone, so making sure everything is seamless is key. It has a very lightweight, wearable feel on the skin, and it lasts about eight hours on me before starting to visibly break down.

It is very, very heavily scented with Guerlain’s “Tiare Flower” fragrance, which is just so over-the-top that it’s something I can smell all day long, even eight hours later, and feels really heavy, like a cloud of florals all around me. You have to really love scented base products, and you have to really love the scent of the foundation in general to love this formula. I liked it, but I prefer Lingerie de Peau or Parure Lumiere infinitely more for its more spreadable consistency and coverage.

The Glossover

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product

Natural

A-

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Monday, January 13th, 2014

Urban Decay Ultra Definition Loose Finishing Powder
Urban Decay Ultra Definition Loose Finishing Powder

Urban Decay Ultra Definition Loose Finishing Powder ($34.00 for 0.28 oz.) is a new (and permanent) product being added to the Naked Skin range this spring. It’s supposed to be a “silky, weightless formula” that gives a “luminous, demimatte Naked finish” while setting makeup, reducing shining, and blurring flaws. There are five shades in the formula (see this post for Urban Decay’s recommendations).

It’s an incredibly finely-milled loose powder; it almost melts into skin because it is so, so fine. It feels like silk, and it blends and disappears into skin seamlessly. No matter how much I applied, it never looked powdery or cakey. My skin looked nearly flawless after applying this, and it mattified a good deal, but it didn’t leave my skin looking dull or flat.  The effect is quite lovely, especially for anyone who is looking to minimize the appearance of their pores, as this powder does an excellent job of blurring and smoothing the skin.  It’s a very breathable, featherweight formula, too, so it doesn’t feel heavy or like you’re wearing powder at all.  As a setting powder, it extends the wear of my foundation by an hour to an hour and a half and does minimize how much shine comes through overall.

I used Medium Light, which looks a bit darker than Medium to me. The differences between Medium Light, Medium, and Medium Dark are very slight; Light is definitely lighter than the rest, and Dark is several shades darker than Medium Dark.  I even swatched Medium Light and Medium next to each other, and there’s almost no difference in lightness/darkness, just that Medium Light has a stronger yellow undertone, which is hard to see except at a very severe angle under bright light. Each shade is very forgiving, as they are translucent (as described), so the color looks invisible on skin.

Compared to the Pressed Finishing Powder, I think these allow for a more natural finish, probably because of the loose consistency, it applies less as you go along than with the pressed. The Pressed is slightly more matte in finish when applied, and it seems to have a stronger tint/amount of coverage (though still sheer).

The Glossover

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product

Ultra Definition Loose Finishing Powder

Temptalia Recommends
A+

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Thursday, January 2nd, 2014

Guerlain Clair (02) Meteorites Pearls
Guerlain Clair (02) Meteorites Pearls

Guerlain Clair (02) Meteorites Pearls ($60.00 for 0.88 oz.) is described as a “harmony of green … white … and champagne pearls.” Clair (02) contains “green pearls for extra redness correction,” along with “white pearls to reflect the light” and “champagne pearls to adapt to the skin and gently illuminate it.” It also contains three colors that are the base of all the Meteorites (mauve, pink, and yellow). In general, this combination of colors and the way the powder swatches and applies to the skin, it seemed rather brightening. It softened the look of skin (primarily by smoothing out pores), brightened, and added a very, very subtle radiance.

The effect is lovely, and I’ve been a long-time fan of the Meteorites range; as they always improve the look of the skin and making skin appear healthier, more radiant, smoother, and lovelier.  It works best as a finishing powder–it’s not a traditional highlighter, and it’s not a setting powder.  If you use a setting powder or more matte foundation, finishing powders help to add back some of the luminosity that gets lost by a more matte finish without leaving the skin looking too dewy.  If you go on in wanting something to highlight cheek bones and high planes of the face, you’ll be disappointed. This gets dusted all-over the face.  I would say skip the Meteorites brush; I will do a review of the revamped brush released for spring later on, but in short, it’s unnecessary for applying Meteorites, and I thought it was a little rough/scratchy.

Guerlain has re-released their famous Meteorites Pearls with their Meteorites Blossom Collection. The formula and packaging have both undergone a revamp. The tin has the same size, shape, and feel as the last iteration released in 2010–the embellishments and patterns are different. The formula is supposed to have “softer” pearls that “allow for an even easier application and a more visible effect with every brush stroke.” There are three shades, this one, along with Medium (03) and Dore (04). I only have Clair (02), but I wasn’t able to find any noticeable or visible differences (for better or worse).

This seems to replace Teint Rose. Worth noting is that they were previously priced at $58 and contained 1.05 oz. and now are $60 a pop and only 0.88 oz., which is a squeeze on both ends. I didn’t notice any difference between Clair (02) and Teint Rose; the texture, feel, appearance–all the same. In general, Meteorites, once applied, tend to look more similar than not. On very fair skin, any differences may be more amplified but still quite subtle, and on deeper skin tones, any of the more brightening shades may have a tendency to look chalky or ashy.

The Glossover

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product

Clair (02)

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
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Tuesday, December 10th, 2013

RMS Beauty
RMS Beauty “Un” Cover-Up

RMS Beauty “Un” Cover-Up ($36.00 for 0.20 oz.) is supposed to be used as a “foundation or a light concealer” that covers “imperfections and redness.” It is also supposed to be hydrating and healing when worn. It is available in five shades.  The shade I used and is photographed is shade #22.

I can see why reviews on this are divided–some swear by it, others try it and go, “Huh?” If you need heavy, full coverage concealer or have oily skin, it’s not a product I’d recommend to you. If you have a lot of fine lines, it may not be the best for use underneath the eyes. The first ingredient is coconut oil, and you would be correct if your first thought was, “This is going to settle into fine lines and crease instantly,” because it absolutely does. I like it for concealing mostly-healed or post-acne marks, but for under eyes, it requires patience, layering, and powdering. A lot of me feels like this is a concealer for someone who doesn’t really need a lot of heavy concealing; for someone who has fairly nice skin from the get-go. It doesn’t feel heavy, offers moderate coverage, and doesn’t dry out the skin, yet it doesn’t really conceal that well, doesn’t take care of all the darkness, and is prone to creasing and settling into fine lines and nooks and crannies. It doesn’t fully cover imperfections or redness; it reduces and softens, yes, but a light-coverage foundation performs similarly.

To apply it underneath eyes, I took a palette spatua and took a bit of product out and put it on a metal palette, and then I used fingertips to pat it underneath the eye, lightly patting until it was spread out evenly. The creamy, more emollient consistency made it easy to spread and blend, but it is prone to sheering out from the get-go so coverage is more light-medium than full. If you want to layer, it’s best to wait a few minutes or else apply a dusting of translucent powder. If you wait, you’ll need to blend and smooth out the initial layer somewhat, as it will have settled into fine lines/creased to a degree. Otherewise, if one layer is enough, I highly recommend setting with translucent powder after you’ve waited a few minutes (and then re-blended). When I did this, I didn’t see any creasing until after six hours. It seems to be hydrating when worn for the long-haul, but it was very unforgiving if there was noticeable dryness (like flakiness) around or near the eyes–it exacerbated every flake for the first hour and a half of wear, and then after that, the flakes seemed to diminish as the product continued to melt and hydrate the area.

For concealing moderate redness, stray marks, post-acne parks, and the like, this worked well to reduce the appearance, but anything really dark or noticeable wouldn’t be fully concealed. I have normal-to-dry skin, and I didn’t have application issues when I used this on my face like I did when I used it underneath the eyes.  It lasted seven to eight hours on the face, generally. I had some similar settling when I used it around my nostrils, but like with underneath the eyes, if I waited a few minutes, blended again, and then set, it stayed well for six to seven hours. As a light foundation, it definitely works and helps to even out the skin. I don’t find that it’s a practical product for that purpose–if you are actually applying it all over and not just as in some spots–because the jar and amount of product is quite small.

The Glossover

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product

"Un" Cover-Up

C-

A lot of me feels like this is a concealer for someone who doesn't really need a lot of heavy concealing; for someone who has fairly nice skin from the get-go. It doesn't feel heavy, offers moderate coverage, and doesn't dry out the skin, yet it doesn't really conceal that well, doesn't take care of all the darkness, and is prone to creasing and settling into fine lines and nooks and crannies.

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

3/5

Results
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