Monday, January 13th, 2014

Urban Decay Ultra Definition Loose Finishing Powder
Urban Decay Ultra Definition Loose Finishing Powder

Urban Decay Ultra Definition Loose Finishing Powder ($34.00 for 0.28 oz.) is a new (and permanent) product being added to the Naked Skin range this spring. It’s supposed to be a “silky, weightless formula” that gives a “luminous, demimatte Naked finish” while setting makeup, reducing shining, and blurring flaws. There are five shades in the formula (see this post for Urban Decay’s recommendations).

It’s an incredibly finely-milled loose powder; it almost melts into skin because it is so, so fine. It feels like silk, and it blends and disappears into skin seamlessly. No matter how much I applied, it never looked powdery or cakey. My skin looked nearly flawless after applying this, and it mattified a good deal, but it didn’t leave my skin looking dull or flat.  The effect is quite lovely, especially for anyone who is looking to minimize the appearance of their pores, as this powder does an excellent job of blurring and smoothing the skin.  It’s a very breathable, featherweight formula, too, so it doesn’t feel heavy or like you’re wearing powder at all.  As a setting powder, it extends the wear of my foundation by an hour to an hour and a half and does minimize how much shine comes through overall.

I used Medium Light, which looks a bit darker than Medium to me. The differences between Medium Light, Medium, and Medium Dark are very slight; Light is definitely lighter than the rest, and Dark is several shades darker than Medium Dark.  I even swatched Medium Light and Medium next to each other, and there’s almost no difference in lightness/darkness, just that Medium Light has a stronger yellow undertone, which is hard to see except at a very severe angle under bright light. Each shade is very forgiving, as they are translucent (as described), so the color looks invisible on skin.

Compared to the Pressed Finishing Powder, I think these allow for a more natural finish, probably because of the loose consistency, it applies less as you go along than with the pressed. The Pressed is slightly more matte in finish when applied, and it seems to have a stronger tint/amount of coverage (though still sheer).

The Glossover

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Ultra Definition Loose Finishing Powder

Temptalia Recommends
A+

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Thursday, January 2nd, 2014

Guerlain Clair (02) Meteorites Pearls
Guerlain Clair (02) Meteorites Pearls

Guerlain Clair (02) Meteorites Pearls ($60.00 for 0.88 oz.) is described as a “harmony of green … white … and champagne pearls.” Clair (02) contains “green pearls for extra redness correction,” along with “white pearls to reflect the light” and “champagne pearls to adapt to the skin and gently illuminate it.” It also contains three colors that are the base of all the Meteorites (mauve, pink, and yellow). In general, this combination of colors and the way the powder swatches and applies to the skin, it seemed rather brightening. It softened the look of skin (primarily by smoothing out pores), brightened, and added a very, very subtle radiance.

The effect is lovely, and I’ve been a long-time fan of the Meteorites range; as they always improve the look of the skin and making skin appear healthier, more radiant, smoother, and lovelier.  It works best as a finishing powder–it’s not a traditional highlighter, and it’s not a setting powder.  If you use a setting powder or more matte foundation, finishing powders help to add back some of the luminosity that gets lost by a more matte finish without leaving the skin looking too dewy.  If you go on in wanting something to highlight cheek bones and high planes of the face, you’ll be disappointed. This gets dusted all-over the face.  I would say skip the Meteorites brush; I will do a review of the revamped brush released for spring later on, but in short, it’s unnecessary for applying Meteorites, and I thought it was a little rough/scratchy.

Guerlain has re-released their famous Meteorites Pearls with their Meteorites Blossom Collection. The formula and packaging have both undergone a revamp. The tin has the same size, shape, and feel as the last iteration released in 2010–the embellishments and patterns are different. The formula is supposed to have “softer” pearls that “allow for an even easier application and a more visible effect with every brush stroke.” There are three shades, this one, along with Medium (03) and Dore (04). I only have Clair (02), but I wasn’t able to find any noticeable or visible differences (for better or worse).

This seems to replace Teint Rose. Worth noting is that they were previously priced at $58 and contained 1.05 oz. and now are $60 a pop and only 0.88 oz., which is a squeeze on both ends. I didn’t notice any difference between Clair (02) and Teint Rose; the texture, feel, appearance–all the same. In general, Meteorites, once applied, tend to look more similar than not. On very fair skin, any differences may be more amplified but still quite subtle, and on deeper skin tones, any of the more brightening shades may have a tendency to look chalky or ashy.

The Glossover

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Clair (02)

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Tuesday, December 10th, 2013

RMS Beauty
RMS Beauty “Un” Cover-Up

RMS Beauty “Un” Cover-Up ($36.00 for 0.20 oz.) is supposed to be used as a “foundation or a light concealer” that covers “imperfections and redness.” It is also supposed to be hydrating and healing when worn. It is available in five shades.  The shade I used and is photographed is shade #22.

I can see why reviews on this are divided–some swear by it, others try it and go, “Huh?” If you need heavy, full coverage concealer or have oily skin, it’s not a product I’d recommend to you. If you have a lot of fine lines, it may not be the best for use underneath the eyes. The first ingredient is coconut oil, and you would be correct if your first thought was, “This is going to settle into fine lines and crease instantly,” because it absolutely does. I like it for concealing mostly-healed or post-acne marks, but for under eyes, it requires patience, layering, and powdering. A lot of me feels like this is a concealer for someone who doesn’t really need a lot of heavy concealing; for someone who has fairly nice skin from the get-go. It doesn’t feel heavy, offers moderate coverage, and doesn’t dry out the skin, yet it doesn’t really conceal that well, doesn’t take care of all the darkness, and is prone to creasing and settling into fine lines and nooks and crannies. It doesn’t fully cover imperfections or redness; it reduces and softens, yes, but a light-coverage foundation performs similarly.

To apply it underneath eyes, I took a palette spatua and took a bit of product out and put it on a metal palette, and then I used fingertips to pat it underneath the eye, lightly patting until it was spread out evenly. The creamy, more emollient consistency made it easy to spread and blend, but it is prone to sheering out from the get-go so coverage is more light-medium than full. If you want to layer, it’s best to wait a few minutes or else apply a dusting of translucent powder. If you wait, you’ll need to blend and smooth out the initial layer somewhat, as it will have settled into fine lines/creased to a degree. Otherewise, if one layer is enough, I highly recommend setting with translucent powder after you’ve waited a few minutes (and then re-blended). When I did this, I didn’t see any creasing until after six hours. It seems to be hydrating when worn for the long-haul, but it was very unforgiving if there was noticeable dryness (like flakiness) around or near the eyes–it exacerbated every flake for the first hour and a half of wear, and then after that, the flakes seemed to diminish as the product continued to melt and hydrate the area.

For concealing moderate redness, stray marks, post-acne parks, and the like, this worked well to reduce the appearance, but anything really dark or noticeable wouldn’t be fully concealed. I have normal-to-dry skin, and I didn’t have application issues when I used this on my face like I did when I used it underneath the eyes.  It lasted seven to eight hours on the face, generally. I had some similar settling when I used it around my nostrils, but like with underneath the eyes, if I waited a few minutes, blended again, and then set, it stayed well for six to seven hours. As a light foundation, it definitely works and helps to even out the skin. I don’t find that it’s a practical product for that purpose–if you are actually applying it all over and not just as in some spots–because the jar and amount of product is quite small.

The Glossover

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"Un" Cover-Up

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A lot of me feels like this is a concealer for someone who doesn't really need a lot of heavy concealing; for someone who has fairly nice skin from the get-go. It doesn't feel heavy, offers moderate coverage, and doesn't dry out the skin, yet it doesn't really conceal that well, doesn't take care of all the darkness, and is prone to creasing and settling into fine lines and nooks and crannies.

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

3/5

Results
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Thursday, November 21st, 2013

Guerlain Les Voilettes Translucent Compact Powder
Guerlain Les Voilettes Translucent Compact Powder

Guerlain Les Voilettes Translucent Compact Powder ($56.00 for 0.22 oz.) is described as an “ultra-absorbent blend [that] perfectly sets makeup and adorns skin in a matte veil.” It’s a sheer, tinted powder that mattifies the skin–my skin looks like the smoothest velvet after applying over foundation. The texture is incredibly finely-milled, silky smooth, and blends easily across the skin.  I used shade Medium, and it only comes in four shades–Light, Intense, and Dore are the other three.

I’ve used it primarily with Guerlain Tenue de Perfection, and it increased the longevity of that foundation by two to three hours. The most stunning aspect of this powder is really how much smoother and pore-less the skin looked after applying a light veil of product. This powder is a touch darker than my skin tone, but as the foundation I often used it with was slightly too light for me, the two worked perfectly together to give me a really nice shade match. (This is also something I’ve done in the past with Guerlain’s Les Voilettes loose powder.) It’s a very close match to my arm when I swatched it, so it may be difficult to see it there, but I think you can easily just how smooth and velvety this makes the skin look in the photos below, which is really what its purpose.

The Glossover

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Medium

Temptalia Recommends
A+

It's a sheer, tinted powder that mattifies the skin--my skin looks like the smoothest velvet after applying over foundation. The texture is incredibly finely-milled, silky smooth, and blends easily across the skin. It photographs exceptionally well, too.

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Thursday, November 21st, 2013

Guerlain Tenue de Perfection Foundation
Guerlain Tenue de Perfection Foundation

Guerlain Tenue de Perfection Foundation ($59.00 for 1.0 fl. oz.) is the latest foundation from Guerlain, which debuted earlier this fall. It has a limited shade range–a mere six to choose from–which is typical for Guerlain, but it can’t go without noting, as a greater and more expansive shade range would go a long way. I have Beige Clair (02), which is about half a shade too light; I’m normally between 02 and 03 in Guerlain’s foundations and typically mix to get the right shade for my skin tone.

It’s supposed to wear for a heart-stopping 16 hours with “ultimate coverage and comfort.” Some of the longest-wearing foundations I’ve tried have heavier, clingier formulas that tend to be unflattering on drier skin types (but good fits for oilier skin types). The texture of this was surprisingly lightweight, and the dry down was semi-matte to just shy of a truly natural finish. It was buildable to medium coverage; one pump yielded light-medium coverage, a pump and a half more like medium coverage. Two pumps was getting closer to full coverage, but it didn’t feel heavy worn that way. The formula evened out my skin tone and left my skin looking semi-matte.

I have normal-to-dry skin, closer to normal at this time, and my t-zone can get shiny towards the end of the day. After 16 hours of wear, it was surprising to find it still looked decent; I wouldn’t say it lasts 16 hours immaculately, but it seemed to fade evenly, so it didn’t look patchy or completely gone in places. It was as if my medium-coverage application went to light-medium coverage along my t-zone. I would say that on my skin type, it wore beautifully for 10 hours (without setting powder!), which was still impressive, though certainly not the full 16 as promised. When I set lightly with powder, it wore nearly perfectly for 12-13 hours, and it looked somewhat better after 16 hours than it did without any powder.

There are some brands and formulas that just seem to work well for me, and Guerlain’s foundations are definitely some of my favorites–I haven’t met one I didn’t like, and quite frankly, readers never ask me more frequently what foundation I’m wearing than when I’m wearing Guerlain. Again, I wish they had more shades, because it’s a very limited selection–very, very fair complexions will probably find the lightest (12) a bit too dark, and if you’re much past medium, there’s probably no shade match.

The Glossover

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Tenue de Perfection

B+
There are a lot of things to love about this foundation--beautiful dry down, great coverage, lightweight and comfortable on the skin--but it does promise 16 hours of wear, and it just doesn't get there. Compared to a lot of foundations, it is longer-wearing than many I've tried, though. I liked that it seemed to fade evenly as it made its way to 16 hours--it never turned patchy or disappeared entirely. I wish they hadn't made such an extravagant claim!

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Thursday, November 7th, 2013

Clarins Graphic Expression Face & Blush Powder Palette
Clarins Graphic Expression Face & Blush Powder Palette

Clarins Graphic Expression Face & Blush Powder Palette ($35.00 for 0.30 oz.) is described as a series of “tinted powders,” and according to the brand, they’re applied “over entire face to softly highlight” and “the coral pink shade [can be applied] to cheeks to create a healthy-looking glow.”

The small stripe of coral-pink is very small–it’s just not practical to use sections of the palette but rather all the shades swirled together. When swirled together, the resulting shade is a soft, peachy-beige with neutral-to-warm undertones and a mostly matte finish. The texture incredibly soft, finely-milled, and silky.  MAC Love, Rihanna (LE, $25.00) is darker, warmer. MAC Bareness (LE, $25.00) is pinker. MAC Blazing Haute (LE, $25.00) is slightly darker, more shimmery. MAC Peaceful (LE, $24.00) is more orange. Dior Pink Glow Bronzer (LE) is warmer, darker. See comparison swatches.

On fairer complexions, I could see this working as a subtle, easy-going bronzer. On my medium complexion, I can get a light coloring on my cheeks if packed on, but otherwise it just helps to even out my skin tone. In the photo, I applied it all over lightly and then patted onto the apples of cheeks as a “blush.” It wore well for eight and a half hours, and it did seem to help prolong the wear of my foundation slightly (by about a half hour) as it was also applied all-over the face.

The Glossover

LE
product

Graphic Expression

A-

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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