Monday, March 16th, 2015

Too Faced Cocoa Contour Chiseled to Perfection Palette
Too Faced Cocoa Contour Chiseled to Perfection Palette

Too Faced Cocoa Contour Chiseled to Perfection Palette ($40.00 for 0.68 oz.) is a set of highlighting and contouring powders. Two shades are most obviously contouring powders, while the other two lend themselves as more highlighters, but very fair skin tones may find they still have some color. The palette is very, very powdery–the interior is always covered in excess powdery dust and sparkle, and it can be frustrating when you get excess from the darkest shade with the lightest shade or sparkle from the highlighting shade mixed with the contouring shades. It is chocolate scented, which is noticeable when applied but wanes after two to three hours. The powders have a very soft, silky consistency with the highlighter shade having noticeable sparkle. All four shades were pretty pigmented and the silkiness made them easy to work with on the skin, and luckily, they didn’t look powdery applied. I also wish brands that released a palette like this would consider releasing at least two or three variations–this is very warm-toned and more mid-tone, so a lot of skin tones get left out.

Light Cocoa is a light, yellowed beige with a satin finish. It is a very, very subtle highlighter that I could only see marginally in person, but it doesn’t appear in photos at all. For my skin tone, it was more useful to blend out edges of the contouring shades. The texture was powdery though silky, and it lasted for seven hours before breaking down. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Medium Cocoa is a muted, medium-dark brown with subtle warm undertones and a semi-matte finish–there’s a smidgen of sheen but not a true satin or shimmery finish that ensures the powder looks natural but not flat on the skin. This looked more like a shadow that would fall on my face, though my guess is that it may be too warm-toned for those with rosier undertones. The texture was silky, very powdery, but blendable and easy to apply. It lasted for seven and a half hours before fading on me. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Dark Cocoa is a medium-dark brown with warm, yellow and red undertones and a semi-matte finish. It had intense pigmentation and a little went a long way. The texture is very soft and powdery, so while blendable, it is harder to control the amount of product you apply. If you have medium or lighter skin, you may want to tap off excess prior to applying. This is a very, very warm-toned choice for contouring, which may work for those with a lot of golden undertones, but it is likely too warm to look like natural shadow on the face. It looks more like your typical bronzer as a result. On me, the color wears for almost eight hours before fading. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Pop of Light is a light, peachy-beige with gold sparkle. It illuminates subtly, and then it just has a lot of larger sparkly bits that sit on the skin but don’t really do much as half of the sparkles get lost and the other half are randomly dispersed on the skin (and then travel during wear). I wish they had opted for a finer shimmer that contributed to the overall sheen of the underlying powder. It lasted for seven and a half hours on me before fading. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

P
palette

Cocoa Contour

B

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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P
product

Light Cocoa

B

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
P
product

Medium Cocoa

B+

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Sunday, March 15th, 2015

Too Faced #TFNoFilter Selfie Powders Palette
Too Faced #TFNoFilter Selfie Powders Palette

Too Faced #TFNoFilter Selfie Powders Palette ($36.00 for 0.42 oz.) contains three “lightweight, finishing face powders” designed to act like photo filters in real life. The powders have a dryness to them (even though they feel soft to the touch) that make them harder to really dust on evenly as all-over finishing powders. On my skin tone, only the bronzing powder worked well; the brightening one made my complexion look yellower, but in a jaundiced kind of way, while the illuminating powder smoothed out pores, it didn’t actually add radiance–quite the opposite, as it made my skin look very, very flat and matte.

I think these are a poor imitation of some of the more cult classic finishing powders on the market. I ended up removing all of my base products and redoing it to finish out the rest of the photos I was taking for the day (for lip products and the like), since they really made me look worse rather than better and saved testing for another day entirely. (My husband actually asked, “Are you feeling okay?” when I popped into his office with the yellow powder on.)

Sunrise is described as a “brightening diffused warmth.” It’s a light-medium yellow with a satin finish. It is semi-sheer, but it’s actually more pigmented than merely translucent, and as a result, it actually turns my skin yellow. It’s not really warming on my skin tone, more sickly and either like I’m getting jaundiced or my foundation is a poor match for me. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Totally Toasted is described as a “bronzed smoothing glow.” It’s a muted, medium gold-shimmered brown with warm undertones and a soft sheen. The top layer of the product was really soft and yielded more pigmentation than anticipated (what you’d expect from a bronzer, not a finishing powder), but after initially swatching it, the pan was firmer and harder, and then it had sheer color coverage. For those who like their bronzers more matte, once that top layer disappears, it applies with such translucent coverage that there’s almost no visible shimmer on the skin. The effect is subtle and does warm my skin up slightly, but if you are much darker than me, I don’t think it will do anything for your skin tone. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Moon River is described as a “cool ethereal light.” It’s a sheer, lavender-leaning white with a very subtle satin shimmer. It is translucent like you’d expect from a finishing powder, but it doesn’t provide an “ethereal glow” to my skin at all. It makes the skin appear smoother (but all of the powders did that to the same level) without adding any luminosity or glow–I actually felt like it flattened the skin to the point where you lost the natural radiance that helps done-up skin still look like skin. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

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palette

#TFNoFilter Selfie Powders

C+

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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P
product

Sunrise

C

Product

6/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Dupes
P
product

Totally Toasted

B-

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Thursday, February 26th, 2015

IT Cosmetics Bye Bye Under Eye Anti-Aging Concealer
IT Cosmetics Bye Bye Under Eye Anti-Aging Concealer

IT Cosmetics Bye Bye Under Eye Anti-Aging Concealer ($24.00 for 0.28 fl. oz.) is thickened, liquid-cream concealer that has medium-to-full coverage that doesn’t settle into or exacerbate fine lines underneath the eyes. It’s definitely a full coverage concealer, but it’s spreadable enough that you can get more medium coverage if desired. It brightens and minimizes the shadows underneath the eyes while subtly softening fine lines (they’re still there, but they seem less severe). I like to pat the concealer into place with a fingertip, then buff and blend it out using a fluffy eyeshadow brush. The concealer wears a full nine hours on me (without setting powder).

The brand says that it’s supposed to be a full-coverage, waterproof, “crease-proof” concealer that will also “diffuse the look of lines and wrinkles” and “give a more youthful radiance.” The latter characteristic is apparent; it’s has a definite radiance/sheen to its finish once it dries down, so if you like an ultra-matte finish, you won’t find it with this concealer on its own. It diffuses some lines, but it’s very subtle. There are four shades–Light, Neutral Medium, Tan, and Deep–and that’s the main complaint I have, which is that the shade range could be larger. I’m typically medium in most ranges (perfectly between light-medium and medium, really), but Neutral Medium is too light while Tan is a bit too dark (also worth noting, Tan leans more peach, which can be nice for covering up under-eye circles, but it is quite warm-toned and may not double as an under eye and face concealer if you prefer double duty), so I mix both shades to get a matching under eye concealer. As far as personal usage goes, I like to use a setting powder to further soften my under eye circles, and it’s always worked well with the concealer (never makes it appear dry or caked).

The Glossover

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product

Bye Bye Under Eye Anti-Aging Concealer

Temptalia Recommends
A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Monday, February 2nd, 2015

Kevyn Aucoin Medium The Sculpting Powder
Kevyn Aucoin Medium The Sculpting Powder

Kevyn Aucoin Medium The Sculpting Powder ($44.00 for 0.11 oz.) is a medium-dark taupe brown with subtle warmth and a mostly matte finish. Marc Jacobs Beauty Contour (P) is warmer. Kevyn Aucoin Sculpting Medium (P) is a cream product. MAC Sculpt (P, $16.50) is warmer, lighter. MAC Coffee Walnut (LE, $20.00) is a cream product, slightly darker. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

After falling in love with Kevyn Aucoin Sculpting Medium/Candlelight The Creamy Glow Duo, it seemed imperative to test drive the powder version of the contouring shade. It’s a very shadowy contour, so for those who have bemoaned the plethora of warmer bronzes and feel like there is too much orange in other products marketed as contouring powders, this might be a great option. It reads warmer in tone in the pan and swatched, but even against my warmer undertones, it read shadowy, cool-toned, and very much like a true contouring shade. The product is incredibly pigmented, and a little goes a long way. The first time I applied it, the contour was deeper and more dramatic than I anticipated, so less is more with this one. It had a silky, smooth, and blendable texture that applied nicely and sat well on the skin. The contour wears well for eight hours before fading slightly.

I wish the brand also had a light and deep option, because I bet they could nail the right variation in color and undertone so it could fit a wider spectrum of skin tones. I’d also like to see a price reduction, because when they changed packaging, they reduced significantly (0.23 oz. to 0.11 oz.) without reducing the price–the product is so, so good but knowing it used to be double the size for the same price is hard to overlook.

The Glossover

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product

Medium

Temptalia Recommends
A

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Saturday, January 31st, 2015

Guerlain Dore (04) Meteorites Compact
Guerlain Dore (04) Meteorites Compact

Guerlain Dore (04) Meteorites Compact ($62.00 for 0.35 oz.) is described as having “gold dots to illuminate, while fuchsia dots joyfully revive radiance and chocolate dots warm up the skin.” It’s a translucent pink with subtle warm undertones and a very subtle sheen. Guerlain Crazy Meteorites (LE, $69.00) is actually rather similar, but I think it was smoother and silkier. Guerlain Angelic Radiance (LE, $53.00) is more pigmented (more like a blush, as it was intended, in comparison to this) but similar in tone and effect, so I think it might be the way to go if you want actual color. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

I was surprised to see as much color in this as there was, given that there were only three pink-hued sections. It seemed to brighten the skin while adding a little bit of radiance, but I think it had less luminosity compared to Clair and Medium. The texture, while soft to the touch, was a little drier–it just didn’t feel as luxurious or as smooth to me as the other two, but luckily, it still sat well on the skin and blurred imperfections. It had the subtlest effect of the three shades on my skin tone; it brightened subtly but didn’t add any warmth that I could see, and it added a little illumination but not much. I could barely detect it in person, and I don’t think it picks up in photos at all. I think if you have pinker undertones or a fairer complexion, it might be really nice for brightening without adding a lot of sheen, but from my experience, it misses the mark on two of the three things it’s supposed to do. It did prolong the wear of my foundation by an hour, even though it is a finishing powder (not a setting powder).

The Glossover

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product

Dore (04)

B-

Product

6/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
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Friday, January 30th, 2015

Guerlain Medium (03) Meteorites Compact
Guerlain Medium (03) Meteorites Compact

Guerlain Medium (03) Meteorites Compact ($62.00 for 0.35 oz.) is described as a “beige and champagne colors” that “unify while peach dots add a perfecting touch.” It’s a translucent powder with very fine shimmer that translates into more of a soft sheen on the skin rather than detectable shimmer or sparkle. As much as I love Meteorites, it can be difficult to distinguish differences between them at times, and this is one of those times. Visually, I really just don’t notice a difference between the effect of this compared to Clair (02 on my skin tone. I think some skin tones might find one works better than the other, but on my medium complexion, they both give a subtle luminous effect that simultaneously blurs imperfections while giving the skin a brightened, livelier appearance. I love the effect of both on the skin, but I don’t think you need both unless you’re very fair or much deeper and perhaps your skin tone will allow any nuances to become visible. View comparison swatches / view dupes.

I like wearing it alone over bare skin, but I typically use it as a finishing powder dusted all-over the face after I’ve applied setting powder (and it is a finishing powder, to be clear!). I get an extra half hour of wear out of my foundation if I just use this and skip the setting powder, but I have normal-to-dry skin. The powder is violet-scented, though I don’t notice any scent when it is applied.

For those who were wondering if the pan could be removed: it is supposed to be glued in, and in fact, the one I ordered arrived with the pan itself rattling around, because it wasn’t actually glued in any more (but you can see where the glue was). I hope I was just one of the few unlucky ones to have this happen to them, and it isn’t prevalent (the other one I ordered was fine).

The Glossover

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product

Medium (03)

Temptalia Recommends
A

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
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