Sunday, February 23rd, 2014

Chanel Jardin Zen Eyeshadow Quad
Chanel Jardin Zen Eyeshadow Quad

Chanel Jardin Zen Eyeshadow Quad ($65.00 for 0.07 oz.) is described as a “soft pink, violet-plum gray, golden beige, [and] luminous black.” These eyeshadows can be used wet or dry, depending on the level of intensity you’re looking to achieve. A dry application will result in softer, sheerer color, while a wet (or damp) application results in more intense pigmentation. Overall, it’s a nice quad; all four shades performed fairly well with the gray-purple shade being slightly powdery but the others were better in texture.

Can we just take a second to look at how little product is actually contained in the palette? A mere 0.07 oz.! That’s a little more than the average full-sized single eyeshadow. Visually, they seem full and normal, so I imagine part of it is due to the formula being naturally very lightweight, even if it fills up a normal volume.  Chanel regularly releases one-off (well, as far as we officially know!) formulas, like last July had Ombres Fleuries which contained 0.14 oz. The formula on these seems very similar to Ombres Fleuries but is not like the formula used in Harmonie du Soir. Regular quads typically have 0.24 oz. (U.S. versions).

Jardin Zen #1 is a muted, medium-dark purple with neutral-to-cool undertones and a satin finish. It had sheer color payoff when applied dry, and then mostly opaque color payoff when applied damp. The texture was soft but powdery, while the color itself wore well for almost eight hours before fading. Too Faced Candied Violet (P, $16.00) is more frosted, darker. Too Faced Jingle All the Way Eyeshadow #6 (LE, $16.00) is cooler-toned. Marc Jacobs Beauty The Tease #2 (P) is more matte. Fyrinnae Agenda (P, $6.80) is brighter. Tom Ford Beauty Enchanted #3 (LE) is lighter. NARS Charade #2 (P, $24.00) is darker, warmer. NARS 413 BLKR #1 (P, $24.00) is more frosted, lighter. See comparison swatches.

Jardin Zen #2 is a peachy-beige with a golden shimmer-sheen that looks almost metallic in finish. It had semi-sheer pigmentation when applied dry, and it was nicely pigmented when applied damp. The texture was soft, finely-milled, and it was not powdery. This shade wore well for eight hours before beginning to fade. theBalm #18 (P, $6.50) is lighter. NARS Mississippi Mermaid (LE, $24.00) is pinker. Disney by Sephora Scuttle (LE) is similar. See comparison swatches.

Jardin Zen #3 is a soft, light-medium pink with warm, yellow undertones and a satiny sheen. It had semi-sheer to semi-opaque color payoff when applied dry, and when applied with a dampened brush, it was fully opaque. The powder was soft and finely-milled, and it applied smoothly. It wore well for almost eight hours on before it showed signs of fading. Too Faced Too-Too (LE, $16.00) is warmer. Urban Decay Minor Sin (LE, $18.00) is lighter. MAC Pink Frontier (P, $21.00) is warmer. See comparison swatches.

Jardin Zen #4 is a deep black with subtle, warm undertones and a satin finish. It had semi-opaque pigmentation when applied dry, and then it was intensely pigmented when applied with a dampened brush. The color wore well for eight and a half hours before it seemed to fade around the edges slightly. It’s a very basic color, though certainly a nice iteration, so there are a fair number of similar shades — see comparison swatches.

The Glossover

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Jardin Zen

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9.5/10

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9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

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LE
product

Jardin Zen #1

B

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8/10

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5/5

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Jardin Zen #2

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Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

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Sunday, February 23rd, 2014

Chanel Rose des Vents (94) Illusion d'Ombre Eyeshadow
Chanel Rose des Vents (94) Illusion d’Ombre Eyeshadow

Chanel Rose des Vents (94) Illusion d’Ombre Eyeshadow ($36.00 for 0.14 oz.) is a sparkling, shimmering medium pink with warm undertones and a frosted finish. Sephora Star-Crossed Lovers (103) (P) is lighter. Sleek MakeUP Sunset #12 (P, $9.99) is less glittery. Chanel Pink Lagoon (LE, $34.00) is warmer. Urban Decay Scratch (P, $18.00) is warmer, less glittery. See comparison swatches. I wouldn’t consider Chanel Impulsion a dupe, as it is much lighter.

It’s a new and limited edition shade released online in the Jardin de Camelias collection. It had semi-opaque color coverage, but it’s a product that seemed to do best as a light wash of sparkle/shimmer than a solid, opaque eyeshadow. The color wore well for eight and a half hours, but there was noticeable fall out after six and a half hours that worsened over a ten-hour period. The consistency was soft, velvety, and smooth, despite the abundance of sparkle.

The Glossover

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product

Rose des Vents (94)

B

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

6.5/10

Application

5/5

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Friday, February 21st, 2014

theBalm Eyeshadow Pans
theBalm Eyeshadow Pans

Here are the next six shades from the forty-four new eyeshadows available in pan-form from theBalm, which launched at the beginning of this year. For more information about sizes, the palettes, and a general overview of the custom palette/eyeshadow pan system, please read this post. You can view swatches all of them in the Swatch Gallery here or view photos and swatches on theBalm’s Eyeshadow Single product page. .

They can be purchased at their San Francisco store or by calling 415-817-1800. Each eyeshadow pan is available for $6.50 and comes in a cardboard sleeve. The 9-pan palette is $8.00, while the 16-pan palette is $10. If you fill either the 9- or 16-pan palette up at the time of purchase, they will run you $44.00 (normally, $66.50) and $64.00 (normally, $114.00) respectively. Each palette is made out of thick cardboard–same as theBalm’s eyeshadow palettes have been in the past–and come with full-sized mirrors on the top flap.

#7 is a golden peach with warm undertones and a frosted finish. It had good color payoff with a soft texture that was easy to blend and work with on the eye. It wore well for eight hours before gradually fading. Tarina Tarantino Delightful #4 (P) is lighter. bareMinerals Ball Gown (LE) is warmer. Clarins The Essentials #3 (LE) is similar. Too Faced Cheers! (LE, $16.00) is a smidgen lighter. LORAC Light Bronze (P) is less frosted. Disney by Sephora Splendid (LE) is lighter. MAC All That Glitters (P, $15.00) is darker. See comparison swatches.

#8 is a dark brown with subtle warm undertones and a sprinkling of gold sparkle. The texture was dry, so it didn’t bind or adhere well to the skin, which resulted in semi-sheer to semi-opaque color payoff. It performs better with a base, as it will give it something to adhere to. On my eyes, it lasted for seven hours before looking faded. theBalm #1 (P, $6.50) is darker, warmer. bareMinerals Toasted Espresso (LE, $14.00) is more frosted. Makeup Geek Bada-Bing (P, $5.99) is warmer, darker. See comparison swatches. I thought it might be a replacement for B4, but it seems like it lacks a little bit of that gold sparkle/shimmer.

#9 is a deep, dark black with a mostly matte finish. It was intensely pigmented but had a soft, blendable texture. A little will go a long way, so depending on the look, you might want to use a light hand! It wore well for eight hours before fading. It seems like it is Serious with an even softer texture. There are many deep, dark blacks, so it is easily duped — see comparison swatches.

#10 is a golden, medium-dark brown with a soft, frosted finish and warm undertones. It had excellent color payoff, and the texture was really soft, buttery, and smooth. It wore well for just over eight hours. MAC Golden Hours #1 (LE, $21.00) is darker. MAC A Medley of Mauves #4 (P, $21.00) is less frosted. Too Faced Hazelnut (P, $16.00) is darker. Dior Golden Flower #4 (LE) is more golden. Too Faced Buttered Rum (LE, $16.00) is more metallic, lighter. Urban Decay Ambush (LE, $18.00) is darker. Too Faced Gangsta (LE, $16.00) is slightly darker. See comparison swatches.

#11 is a bright white with a metallic finish. It had fairly good color payoff, but it wasn’t as opaque as you’d expect, though it was buildable. The texture was soft and smooth, and the color lasted for eight hours before beginning to fade. As you might expect with a basic shade like this, there are tons of possible dupes — see comparison swatches. It seems very comparable to theBalm Sassy as well.

#12 is a slightly muted, light-medium yellow gold with a pearly sheen. It had so-so pigmentation, and it was somewhat powdery to work with. It showed signs of fading after seven and a half hours of wear. theBalm #29 (P, $6.50) is less shimmery, more orange-tinged. theBalm #40 (P, $6.50) is a little brighter but surprisingly similar. MAC Lemon Tart (P, $15.00) is similar. MAC Captivating #1 (LE, $21.00) is lighter, more frosted. theBalm D1 (LE, $16.00) seems to have a smoother sheen but color-wise, very similar. theBalm Snobby (P, $16.00) is a little lighter. MAC Dreammaker (LE, $15.00) is darker. See comparison swatches.

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#7

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9/10

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9/10

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9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

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product

#8

D+

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

6.5/10

Texture

6/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

4/5

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#9

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Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

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Thursday, February 20th, 2014

theBalm Eyeshadow Pans
theBalm Eyeshadow Pans

There are forty-four shades of eyeshadows available in pan-form from theBalm, which launched at the beginning of this year. They can be purchased at their San Francisco store or by calling 415-817-1800. Each eyeshadow pan is available for $6.50 and comes in a cardboard sleeve. The 9-pan palette is $8.00, while the 16-pan palette is $10. If you fill either the 9- or 16-pan palette up at the time of purchase, they will run you $44.00 (normally, $66.50) and $64.00 (normally, $114.00) respectively. Each palette is made out of thick cardboard–same as theBalm’s eyeshadow palettes have been in the past–and come with full-sized mirrors on the top flap. For more information about sizes, the palettes, and a general overview of the custom palette/eyeshadow pan system, please read this post. You can view swatches of all of them in the Swatch Gallery here or view photos and swatches on theBalm’s Eyeshadow Single product page. .

#1 is a warm-toned, dark brown with gold micro-glitter and copper sparkle over a satin-matte finish. It had really good color payoff, and the texture was fairly soft and smooth, but you could feel some of the sparkle separate from the base color, so there was fall out during application. I noticed some minor fall out during wear, but only some of the sparkle translates onto the lid so there’s less that falls out over time. The color lasted for eight hours before gradually fading. Makeup Geek Bada-Bing (P, $5.99) is grayer. Chanel Seduction #4 (LE) is less sparkly, more frosted. MAC Constructivist (P, $18.50) is darker, cream product. NARS Surabaya #2 (P, $24.00) is lighter, warmer. NARS Mekong (P, $24.00) is darker, cooler-toned. MAC Carbonized (LE, $15.00) is darker. bareMinerals Pumped (LE) is warmer. See comparison swatches. This seemed really close to Silly, but #1 had a better texture and more pigmentation.

#2 is a silver-sparkled, cool-toned pinky-purple. The texture was dry, powdery, and almost gritty–I could really feel the powder and sparkle in it. It had semi-sheer color payoff, and it was difficult to apply. It’s a shade that really has to have a sticky, almost white-tinged base to work in any usable capacity. What color I managed to get onto the lid lasted for six hours before I saw noticeable fading. Laura Mercier African Violet (P, $23.00) is cooler-toned with a golden sheen. MAC Swelter (LE, $15.00) is cooler-toned, more muted. Buxom Schnauzer (P, $18.00) is a cream product. Inglot #445 (P, $6.00) is cooler-toned, frosted. See comparison swatches.

#3 is a muted, dark green with cool undertones and a fine, emerald green micro-shimmer and satin finish. It had good color payoff, and the texture was soft and fairly smooth. It wore well for eight hours before showing signs of fading. Tarina Tarantino Very Wicked (LE) is more frosted. Makeup Geek Envy (P, $5.99) is very similar. Urban Decay Damaged (LE, $18.00) is brighter. Make Up For Ever #80 (P, $20.00) is brighter. See comparison swatches.

#4 is a softened, pink-tinged peach with a frosted finish and warm undertones. It had excellent color payoff, and the texture was soft and smooth without being powdery. This shade lasted for eight hours before it started to fade. This seemed really similar to theBalm Stubborn, though it appeared slightly lighter in the pan but the swatches were nearly identical. Kat Von D Precious (LE) is similar. LORAC Champagne (P) is lighter. MAC A Natural Flirt (LE, $19.50) is warmer.Le Metier de Beaute Nouvelle (LE, $30.00) is pinker. See comparison swatches.

#5 is a deep, dark, muted cool-toned purple with a satin finish. It had fantastic pigmentation, and the texture was very soft and finely-milled but slightly powdery. The color wore well for eight and a half hours when I tested it. theBalm The Stroke (P, $16.00) is very similar, if not identical, but the color payoff was weaker. MAC Double Feature #8 #2 (LE, $15.00) is darker. See comparison swatches.

#6 is a muted, coppery brown with warm, orange undertones and a pearly finish. It had excellent pigmentation, and the texture was soft, buttery, and smooth. The color lasted for just over eight hours when I wore it. Kat Von D Dog Roses (LE) is brighter. Too Faced Jingle All the Way Eyeshadow #3 (LE, $16.00) is more frosted. Anastasia Rum Cake (LE) is slightly more frosted. NARS Isolde #2 (P, $24.00) is darker. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

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#1

B+

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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product

#2

F

Product

4/10

Pigmentation

5/10

Texture

4/10

Longevity

6/10

Application

2.5/5

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#3

B+

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

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Wednesday, February 19th, 2014

theBalm Eyeshadow Pans
theBalm Eyeshadow Pans

Just in time for the new year, theBalm Eyeshadow Pans ($6.50 for 0.12 oz. each) launched so that you can customize your own palettes. It also coincided with the opening of their store in San Francisco. Right now, these can only be purchased through their store, though you can place phone orders (415-817-1800). Each eyeshadow pan is available for $6.50 and comes in a cardboard sleeve. The 9-pan palette is $8.00, while the 16-pan palette is $10. If you fill either the 9- or 16-pan palette up at the time of purchase, they will run you $44.00 (normally, $66.50) and $64.00 (normally, $114.00) respectively. I love the concept, and it’s very affordable, whether you fill at the time of purchase or as you go over time. There are five different designs to choose from for the 9-pan palettes and five for the 16-pan palettes. Each palette is made out of thick cardboard–same as theBalm’s eyeshadow palettes have been in the past–and come with full-sized mirrors on the top flap.

Aside from availability/distribution being limited, these are all numbered–none of them have names–and there is overlap with previously released shades (I asked and this was confirmed), but there is no chart or information regarding which shades are from what previous palettes. It would have been nice to know, so if there was a shade you really had your eye on from a palette, whether to replenish or purchase for the first time, it would be easy to do so. It would also help anyone avoid duplicates if they’re a regular theBalm palette buyer. theBalm is also a brand that seems to use names everywhere else in their range, so I would have liked to see these also have names. When I was opening each of these, the majority of the original labels were lifted off by the exterior packaging, so I had to add my own labels and handwrite the numbers on the back of each–the label just has the number, but it’s not something the customer should have to deal with when purchasing a product.

I’ve been testing these since late December, and I’ve now finished testing every single shade for wear, so you’ll see reviews moving forward. This is the first of several posts–there are forty-four shades!–and can be considered the overview. The eyeshadow pans contain 0.12 oz. (I’m not entirely sure how they crammed so much product in the pan), but the pan itself is not oversized–it is the same size as brands like MAC, Urban Decay, Makeup Geek, etc. They fit into MAC palettes (old and new), but they don’t seem to stick; I can turn my new MAC palette upside down, give it a tap, and the eyeshadow will pop out. However, they work well in Z Palettes and do not require additional magnets.

It will take me some time to actually write-up and post individual reviews, so I have gone ahead and added all of the photos and swatches for the forty-four shades in the meanwhile. You can view swatches of all of them in the Swatch Gallery here or view photos and swatches on theBalm’s Eyeshadow Single product page. In general, I like them, but some shades are powdery so they perform best over an eyeshadow primer and/or need to be patted, rather than swept, on to minimize excessive powdery fall out during application. Pigmentation and texture were also good with there being a few misses, and the texture was typically soft, slightly powdery, and occasionally, a few shades had a drier texture that was powdery but not stiff. Individual reviews (along with dupes and all that good stuff) to come! :)

The Glossover

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Eyeshadow Single

In general, I like them, but some shades are powdery so they perform best over an eyeshadow primer and/or need to be patted, rather than swept, on to minimize excessive powdery fall out during application. Pigmentation and texture were also good with there being a few misses, and the texture was typically soft, slightly powdery, and occasionally, a few shades had a drier texture that was powdery but not stiff.

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Wednesday, February 19th, 2014

Tom Ford Orchid Haze Eyeshadow Quad
Tom Ford Orchid Haze Eyeshadow Quad

Tom Ford Orchid Haze Eyeshadow Quad ($78.00 for 0.35 oz.) is a warm-toned palette that features a champagne, brown, rosy plum, and deep plum. Yesterday, I mentioned that I have a hit or miss relationship with Tom Ford’s quads, and this is one of the better ones I’ve tried (I also thought it would show that not all of the brand’s quads are like Ice Queen). It was only the darkest shade that I had any significant issues with–though I think for most, near-perfection is a prerequisite to consider something at this price point.  I can see this being a real workhorse of a palette for some with the color combination being a good mix of light and dark, matte and shimmer, so I disappointed that the last shade was such a miss.

Orchid Haze #1 is a warm-toned, golden peach with a frosted, almost metallic, finish. It had excellent color payoff, and the texture was incredibly soft, smooth, and finely-milled. It wore well for eight hours before starting to fade. Too Faced Marzipan (P, $16.00) is less frosted, darker. bareMinerals Ball Gown (LE) is more golden. Tom Ford Beauty In the Pink #2 (LE) is less frosted but very similar. theBalm Stubborn (P, $16.00) is less shimmery. theBalm Third Eye Blinded (P, $16.00) is less shimmery. Estee Lauder Pink Zinc (P, $24.00) is a cream product. bareMinerals Custom Made (LE) is lighter. See comparison swatches.

Orchid Haze #2 is a warm-toned, medium brown with warm, orange undertones and a frosted, metallic finish. The texture was soft and finely-milled but slightly powdery. It’s a shade I thought was easier to apply with a dampened brush, as it gave it a smoother application and minimized excess fall out. It did wear well for eight hours before it showed signs of fading. Sleek MakeUP Python (P, $9.99) is darker. MAC Pink Sensibilities #1 (LE, $21.00) is similar. Urban Decay Liar (P, $18.00) is less warm-toned. Clarins The Essentials #9 (LE) is darker. Le Metier de Beaute Champagne Shimmer (P, $28.00) is a cream product. CoverGirl Melted Caramel (330) (P, $4.99) is darker, less frosted. Clinique Ample Amber (P, $17.00) is a cream product. See comparison swatches.

Orchid Haze #3 is a softened rosy plum with a pearly finish. It had good pigmentation, and the texture was soft and velvety. There was a very slight powderiness to it. When I wore it, the color lasted for almost eight hours before looking faded along the edges. Chanel Quadrille #1 (LE) is darker, less shimmery. Urban Decay Buzz (P, $18.00) is lighter, warmer. theBalm Just This Once Jamie (P, $16.00) is darker, cooler-toned. Make Up For Ever #141 (P, $20.00) is darker. See comparison swatches.

Orchid Haze #4 is a muted, blackened burgundy with neutral-to-cool undertones and a matte finish. It had seemingly good color payoff, but the texture is very powdery, so it sheers away as soon as you blend or touch the product–it doesn’t really seem to bind or adhere well to the skin. On the lid, it looked dry and slightly uneven/patchy and was difficult to blend. The color wore well for seven and a half hours. Tarte Plums Up (LE) is lighter, warmer. Tarina Tarantino Deep Dahlia (LE) is brighter, shimmery. Kat Von D Fur Elise (P) is lighter. theBalm Sexy (P, $16.00) is darker. theBalm Moderato (P, $16.00) is similar. MAC Blackberry (P, $15.00) is lighter. See comparison swatches.

The Glossover

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palette

Orchid Haze

B+

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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product

Orchid Haze #1

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

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product

Orchid Haze #2

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Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

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