Tuesday, April 21st, 2015

YSL Taupe Drop (03) Full Metal Shadow
YSL Taupe Drop (03) Full Metal Shadow

YSL Taupe Drop (03) Full Metal Shadow ($30.00 for 0.15 fl. oz.) is a subtly warm-toned, purpled taupe with a hint of brown and a metallic sheen. It had good color payoff, and it didn’t seem too watery whenever I tried getting color off of the applicator (because the formula has been finicky, I did ten pulls and swatches to check for consistency). This shade applied more smoothly, and I think it is because the finish is smoother–more pearled/stronger sheen–than frosted or sparkling, so it didn’t thicken on the lid. I still think application is best with a separate brush, as the doe foot really doesn’t provide control or precision at all (contrary to what they may market it as). It lasted for ten hours (out of the 16 claimed), which is good wear in the grander scheme of things but does fall short based on the description. Maybelline Black Orchid (130) (LE, $6.99) is slightly darker. Giorgio Armani Shadow (07) (P, $38.00) is darker, cooler-toned. Kat Von D Darkstar (LE) is darker, powder. Colour Pop Meow (P, $5.00) is darker. Gucci Beauty Sasso (P, $37.00) is lighter, powder. Giorgio Armani Organica (Left) (LE) is darker, cooler-toned, powder. Chanel Tisse Gabrielle #3 (P) is darker, powder. MAC Ebony Blend #3 (LE) is darker, powder. Laura Mercier Violet Steel (LE, $23.00) is darker, less shimmery, powder. bareMinerals Pewter (LE, $14.00) is cooler-toned, powder. Anastasia Antique (LE, $12.00) is darker, powder. MAC Phresh Out #4 (LE) is warmer, powder. Marc Jacobs Beauty The Starlet #1 (P) is purpler, warmer, powder. MAC Stolen Moment (LE, $19.50) is darker, powder. MAC Electroplate (LE, $21.00) is darker. Giorgio Armani #4 (P, $33.00) is darker, powder. Chanel Illusoire (P, $36.00) is darker. Make Up For Ever #2 (P, $23.00) is darker. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

YSL Aquatic Copper (07) Full Metal Shadow ($30.00 for 0.15 fl. oz.) is a warm-toned bronze brown with copper and gold sparkle. It had a more frosted, textured finish, and it was watery yet dried down to a more uneven, flaky finish that was difficult to blend without lifting parts of the actual color (you can see how it blending in the crease caused it to lift in the photos below). It was consistently watery more often than not, and I highly recommend using a brush to apply, as it will soak up some of the excess water before it hits your eyelid, which will give you better color payoff and more even application. I had large chunks of the product flaking off within six hours of wear; I was beyond disappointed in this one. Tarte Pretty (LE) is darker, powder. Too Faced Frosting (P, $16.00) is a powder. Colour Pop On the Rocks (P, $5.00) is less sparkly. Burberry Gold #2 (LE) is powder. Tarte Bronze Cuff (LE) is less sparkly, powder. Kat Von D Nephilim (LE) is lighter, powder. Anastasia Gilded (LE, $12.00) is less sparkly, powder. Tom Ford Beauty Spice (LE, $42.00) is less sparkly. Anastasia Topaz (P, $12.00) is lighter, powder. Tarte Keepsake Frame (LE) is ligher, powder. Make Up For Ever D652 Celestial Earth (P, $21.00) is powder. Too Faced Tiger’s Eye (LE, $16.00) is powder. MAC Her Cocoa #3 (LE, $16.00) is darker, powder. Too Faced Gangsta (LE, $16.00) is darker, powder. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

YSL Dewy Gold (08) Full Metal Shadow ($30.00 for 0.15 fl. oz.) is a light-medium, yellow gold with a sparkling, metallic sheen. This shade was very watery, and it never seemed to have much of a base color. I tried to layer and build up the color, but it was always on the semi-sheer side. I didn’t have flaking issues, at least, though it was creased within eight and a half hours of wear. MAC Bao Bao’s Jewels #2 (LE) is darker, powder. LORAC Unlimited (P) is darker, powder. Makeup Geek Magic Act (P, $9.99) is a powder. Colour Pop Get Lucky (P, $5.00) is darker. Guerlain Petrouchka #2 (LE) is a powder. Too Faced Honey Pot (LE, $16.00) is a powder. Cle de Peau Stellar Gaze #1 (P) is a powder. Ardency Inn Sunday (P, $21.00) is a powder. Stila Vitality (P) is darker, powder. Divergent Golden Honesty (LE) is a powder. Ulta Gold (P, $10.00) is darker, powder. Sleek MakeUP Meet in Madrid (LE, $9.99) is less yellow, powder. L’Oreal Eternal Sunshine (P, $7.99) is a powder. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

The Glossover

P
product

Taupe Drop (03)

B

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

6.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
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P
product

Aquatic Copper (07)

F

Product

4.5/10

Pigmentation

6.5/10

Texture

6.5/10

Longevity

3/10

Application

3/5

Results
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Dupes
P
product

Dewy Gold (08)

F

Product

5/10

Pigmentation

5.5/10

Texture

6.5/10

Longevity

5.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Monday, April 20th, 2015

YSL Onde Sable (04) Full Metal Shadow
YSL Onde Sable (04) Full Metal Shadow

YSL Full Metal Shadow ($30.00 for 0.15 fl. oz.) is a liquid eyeshadow that’s supposed to be “pigment-packed” and last for “16 hours without creasing, flaking, or fading.” It goes on to mention “pure color payoff” and that the applicator is actually supposed to be functional (including for lining). If you use the applicator, you’re going to get pretty poor color coverage and blendability, as the applicator seems to pick up far more water and not enough pigment two out of three pulls. I had the best luck by using a brush and letting some of that water soak into the brush, rather than being spread across my lids. Some shades wore well, while others gave me problems with color that flaked right off (in actual chunks and flakes) well before the sixteen hour mark. They’re not as blendable once they dry down, but you don’t want to blend too furiously while they’re still quite wet, or else you’ll end up with streaky color. I think this formula may work best as a one or two-hued look that has a more diffused, gauzy look to it, rather than as a richly pigmented eyeshadow.

I really, really wanted these to be as impressive as Giorgio Armani’s Eye Tints, which I love, but the price point is tough. I’m really at a loss as to how these were so different in general performance compared to the Eye Tints, because they’re very similar in feel and description–they’re both owned by L’Oreal. I had similar issues with some shades of the Eye Tints where the amount seemed too watery without enough pigment, so the product would go on more sheerly than if you tried again. For that reason, I don’t think the doe-foot applicator is the best delivery system. The Eye Tints are $172.72/oz., while the Full Metal Shadows are $200/oz. The major difference between the two was actually in the finish and dry down; YSL’s Full Metal Shadows are much more metallic with a heavier frost/shimmer element that seems to give a chunkier, thicker consistency when applied with more opaque coverage. It was almost like YSL’s version had more shimmer than base color, and the end result didn’t work as well layered or applied as a mutli-colored look. I was able to get better wear out of the product when wore with one or two shades as a semi-opaque wash of color. You can compare the two ingredient lists below, and they’re very similar in what’s in each, but the order of the first few ingredients is slightly different.

Giorgio Armani: Aqua/Water, Propylene Glycol, Talc, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Lauroyl Lysine, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate Dimethicone, Boron Nitride, Zea Mays Starch, Dipentaerythrityl Tetrahydroxystearate, Calcium Sodium Borosilicate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sorbitan, Isotearate Phenoxyethanol, Stearath-20, Argilla/Magnesium Aluminum Silicate Magnesium Silicate, PEG-75 Stearate, Silica, Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate, Silica[Nano]/Silica,Xanthan Gum, Tin Oxide, Caprylyl Glycol, Acrylates Copolymer, Cetyl Alcohol, Ceteth-20, Alumina, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, May Contain CI 77891/Titanium Dioxide, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499/Iron Oxides, CI 77007/Ultramarines, CI77400/Bronze Powder, CI77400 Copper Powder, CI77288/Chromium Oxide Greens, CI 75470/Carmine, CI 77163 Bismuth Oxychloride, CI 77510/ Ferric Ferrocyanide, CI 77742/ Manganese Violet, CI77120/Barium Sulfate, CI19140/Yellow 5 Lake, CI42090/ Blue 1 Lake, Mica.

YSL: Aqua/Water, Propylene Glycol, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Calcium Sodium Borosicilate, Talc, Lauroyl Lysine, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, Dimethicone, Boron Nitride, Calcium Aluminum Borosiclate, Zea Mays Starch/Corn Starch, Dipentaerythrityl Tetrahydroxystearate/Tetraisostearate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimtehicone Crosspolymer, Sorbitan Isotearate, Argilla/Magnesium Alumnum Silicate, Glycerin, Silicia, Phenoxethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Acrylates Copolymr, Alumina, Magnesium, Silicate, Xanthan Gum, Tin Oxide, Silicia [Nano]/Silicia, May Contain Mica, CI 77891/Titanium Dioxide, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499/Iron Oxides, CI 77007/Ultramarines, CI77288/Chromium Oxide Greens, CI77400/Bronze Powder, CI77400 Copper Powder, 77510/ Ferric Ferrocyanide, CI 77742/ Manganese Violet, CI77120/Barium Sulfate, CI19140/Yellow 5 Lake, CI42090/ Blue 1 Lake

YSL Onde Sable (04) Full Metal Shadow ($30.00 for 0.15 fl. oz.) is a peachy gold with warm undertones and a frosted, metallic finish. It had semi-opaque pigmentation that went on fairly evenly when applied with a brush. It wore well for ten hours before creasing on me. MAC Natural Vigor #2 (LE, $21.00) is powder. Makeup Geek In the Spotlight (P, $9.99) is more orange, powder. Tarte Rose Champagne (LE) is less shimmery, powder. MAC Lorelei (LE, $19.50) is darker, less shimmery, powder. bareMinerals Ball Gown (LE) is rosier, powder. LORAC Light Bronze (P) is lighter, powder. Disney by Sephora Splendid (LE) is powder. Urban Decay Blunt (P, $18.00) is warmer, powder. MAC All That Glitters (LE, $16.00) is darker, powder. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

YSL Pink Cascade (06) Full Metal Shadow ($30.00 for 0.15 fl. oz.) is a rosy peach-copper with warm undertones and a metallic finish. It was semi-opaque to opaque, depending on how much product was caught on the applicator, but it thickens a lot on the skin, so you may want to apply less than you think. This shade flaked off in clumps at the eight-hour mark, but when I wore it as a semi-opaque wash of color blended all-over the lid, I had less issues with flaking until twelve hours of wear. Lancome My French #5 (LE) is a powder. Chanel Envol (847) (LE, $36.00) is similar. Urban Decay Last Sin (LE, $18.00) is a powder. Tom Ford Beauty Nude Dip #2 (LE) is darker, powder. bareMinerals Bare Skin (LE) is a powder. Tom Ford Beauty Orchid Haze #1 (P) is lighter, powder. Too Faced Cheers! (LE, $16.00) is less pink, powder. Urban Decay Sin (P, $18.00) is lighter, powder. MAC Naked Lunch (P, $16.00) is a powder. MAC Sweet Heat (LE, $19.50) is darker, powder. Estee Lauder Pink Zinc (P, $24.00) is similar. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

YSL Steamy Coral (05) Full Metal Shadow ($30.00 for 0.15 fl. oz.) is a brightened, orange-copper with warm, orange-red undertones and a metallic sheen with finer shimmer compared to the other two shades. It had semi-opaque to opaque color payoff that went on more evenly and seemed less watery. It wore well for almost fourteen hours before creasing. MAC Red Alert (LE, $16.00) is less metallic, powder. Makeup Geek Flame Thrower (P, $9.99) is a powder, brighter. Colour Pop Sequin (P, $5.00) is browner. Makeup Geek Roulette (LE, $5.99) is powder. Make Up For Ever I702 Mahogany (P, $21.00) is less shimmery, darker, powder. Maybelline Caramel Cool (100) (LE, $6.99) is lighter. MAC Amorous Alloy (LE, $19.50) is darker, powder. Urban Decay Trick (P, $18.00) is powder. Makeup Geek Vegas Lights (P, $6.99) is powder. Sleek MakeUP Sunset #9 (P, $9.99) is powder. MAC Star Myth (LE, $16.00) is similar. MAC Coppering (P, $16.00) is darker. MAC Brash (LE, $16.00) is darker. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

The Glossover

P
product

Onde Sable (04)

B-

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

6.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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P
product

Pink Cascade (06)

B-

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

6.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
P
product

Steamy Coral (05)

B+

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Sunday, April 19th, 2015

Becca Ombre Nudes Eye Palette
Becca Ombre Nudes Eye Palette

Becca Ombre Nudes Eye Palette ($40.00 for 0.295 oz.) is a set of five, neutral eyeshadows with matte finishes. Those on the hunt for a warmer, muted neutrals in strictly matte finishes may like this one. All five shades had decent or better pigmentation with softer, silkier textures, where only one was on the powdery side. Unsurprisingly, the shades are more dupable than not, so if you already have your favorite neutral palette, I don’t think this is going to be a must-have.

Ombre Nudes #1 is a light-medium peach with warm, orange undertones and a matte finish. It had good color payoff with a soft, silky texture that blended really easily on the skin. It wore well for seven and a half hours. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Ombre Nudes #2 is a medium brown with soft, warm yellow undertones and a matte finish. It had semi-opaque pigmentation with a soft, silky texture that was a smidgen powdery. It lasted for seven and a half hours on me before creasing. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Ombre Nudes #3 is a muted, medium-dark brown with a hint of taupe and a subtle, yellow undertone. It had a mostly matte finish. The color had decent color payoff with a soft, blendable texture that made it more buildable in practice. It showed signs of fading after seven and a half hours. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Ombre Nudes #4 is a dark brown with subtle, warm undertones and a matte finish. It had good color coverage with a silky, smooth texture that was easy to work with. It wore well for seven and a half hours before fading. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Ombre Nudes #5 is a dark, richer brown with warm, red undertones and a matte finish. It was the most pigmented shade in the palette, but it was also the most powdery, so it applies better in two thin layers (built-up) rather than all at once. It was a little harder to blend as well. It stayed on for seven and a half hours on me. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

The Glossover

P
palette

Ombre Nudes

B+

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

5/5

Results
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P
product

Ombre Nudes #1

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
P
product

Ombre Nudes #2

B+

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Saturday, April 18th, 2015

ColourPop x Kathleen Lights Where the Light Is Set
ColourPop x Kathleen Lights Where the Light Is Set

ColourPop x Kathleen Lights Where the Light Is Set ($20.00 for 0.28 oz.) includes four shades of warm-toned eyeshadows in beige, brown, copper, and bronze. Three of the four shades were really lovely and easy to use, while Glow is a bit drier, so it needs some extra work to really blend it down on the skin. All of them lasted for twelve hours without any fading or creasing, and they were easy to combine together in a look. Three of the four eyeshadows are very easily duped, but they’re primarily duped by powder options, so it is good to see those shades in cream versions.

Glow is described as a “creamy vanilla with a matte finish.” It’s a brightened, light white-beige with subtle warm undertones and a matte finish. It appears darker and warmer in the pan, but it is much whiter applied and has more semi-opaque coverage. The texture is a little drier and more prone to applying unevenly, though it is blendable enough that you can smooth it out, but it skips a little initially. I think really fair skin tones may not notice any chalkiness, but for sure on my medium skin tone, it was really stark and chalky enough that I had to mix and blend in Cornelious quite a bit to make it work. It may potentially be a good base shade for brightening powder eyeshadows that need some help. It wore well for twelve hours without fading or creasing. Tarte Compassionate (LE) is brighter, powder. Givenchy Delicate #4 (P) is powder. Too Faced Coconut Crème (P, $16.00) is powder. Tarte Super Mom (LE) is cooler-toned, powder. Too Faced Turtle Dove (LE, $16.00) is lighter, powder. Anastasia Vanilla (P, $12.00) is powder. Make Up For Ever M500 Ivory (P, $21.00) is powder. Too Faced Meow (LE, $16.00) is powder. Too Faced Rockabilly (P, $16.00) is powder. Kat Von D Lifelike (P) is powder. Laura Mercier Buttercream (P, $23.00) is powder. Too Faced Egg Nog (LE, $16.00) is powder. Too Faced Cream Colored Ponies (LE, $16.00) is powder. Too Faced Snow Angel (LE, $16.00) is lighter, powder. Urban Decay Anonymous (LE, $18.00) is powder. MAC Vanilla (P, $16.00) is brighter, powder. Inglot #355 (P, $6.00) is powder. Bobbi Brown Bone (P, $22.00) is powder. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Cornelious is described as a “mid-tone warm caramel with a matte finish.” It’s a soft, medium brown with warm undertones and a matte finish. It had great pigmentation with a soft, velvety texture that blended well on the skin. It hadn’t faded or creased over a twelve-hour period. Becca Ombre Nudes #2 (P) is lighter, powder. Tarte Force of Nature (LE) is a powder, cooler-toned. LORAC Sepia (LE) is darker, powder. Stila Individual (P) is warmer, powder. MAC Rose Cloud (LE, $16.00) is darker, powder. Kat Von D Glasswing (P) is yellower, powder. Makeup Geek Latte (P, $5.99) is darker, powder. Makeup Geek Creme Brulee (P, $5.99) is warmer, powder. MAC Layin’ Low (LE, $18.00) is lighter. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

KathleenLights is described as a “bright golden copper with a pearlized finish.” It’s a bright copper with warm, red undertones and a strong, gold, metallic shimmer finish. It was intensely pigmented with a creamy consistency that blends out really well, but it’s so metallic that it can sometimes bunch up on itself and create texture on the lid. Though I used a brush to apply it in the look, I later tried patting it on with a fingertip, and the application was smoother. I prefer brushes, so the best method was to initially apply with a brush and then smooth it out with my fingertip (rather than using the brush to blend so much) on the larger area, then going back to the brush to blend out edges. The finish is really metallic and brightens the eye a lot. On me, it wore well for twelve hours without fading or creasing. Marc Jacobs Beauty The Lover #5 (LE) is less metallic, powder. MAC Bao Bao’s Jewels #3 (LE) is darker. Sugarpill Penelope (P, $13.00) is redder, powder. Urban Decay Heat (LE, $18.00) is lighter, powder. LORAC Unleashed (P) is a powder. Urban Decay Lucky (LE, $18.00) is powder. Ardency Inn Copper (P, $21.00) is more shimmery, lighter, powder. Make Up For Ever ME728 Copper Red (P, $21.00) is more shimmery, powder. LORAC Nude #2 (LE) is lighter, powder. Marc Jacobs Beauty The Siren #3 (LE) is less metallic, powder. Kat Von D Dog Roses (LE) is darker, less metallic, powder. Sleek MakeUP Sunset #10 (P, $9.99) is lighter, powder. LORAC Gold (P) is darker, powder. Urban Decay Half Baked (P, $18.00) is lighter, powder. MAC Amber Lights (P, $16.00) is slightly darker, powder. MAC Campfire (LE, $32.50) is more metallic, powder. bareMinerals Louder (LE) is similar, powder. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Blaze is described as a “coco bronze sprinkled with multi-dimensional glitter [with a metallic finish].” It’s a brightened, medium-dark golden bronze with warm undertones and a metallic sheen with a smattering of gold micro-glitter. The texture was very soft, creamy, and a little more emollient than other shades in this formula (though the more metallic shades tend to have a wetter feel than the mattes in general). It applied with rich color payoff and blended easily on the skin. It wore well for twelve hours without creasing or fading, and I didn’t notice any fall out over time either. Guerlain Les Precieux #4 (LE) is cooler-toned, powder. Colour Pop On the Rocks (P, $5.00) is darker, warmer. Colour Pop Eve (LE, $5.00) is slightly brighter. Makeup Geek Pretentious (P, $5.99) is warmer, powder. Kat Von D Depeche (LE) is darker, powder. Anastasia Gilded (LE, $12.00) is warmer, powder. Too Faced Cinnamon Sugar (LE, $16.00) is darker, cooler-toned, powder. Too Faced Biscotti (LE, $16.00) is darker, powder. MAC Pretty It Up (LE, $21.00) is more sparkly, darker, powder. Hello Kitty Chocolate Chip (LE) is powder. Anastasia Topaz (P, $12.00) is redder, powder. Makeup Geek Poker Face (P, $6.99) is warmer, powder. Make Up For Ever ME658 Golden Brown (P, $21.00) is more metallic, powder. Make Up For Ever ME644 Iced Brown (P, $21.00) is warmer, powder. Make Up For Ever D640 Golden Snake (P, $21.00) is less metallic, powder. LORAC Nude #6 (LE) is powder. Chanel Mirage (95) (P, $36.00) is more sparkly, lighter. Too Faced Buttered Rum (LE, $16.00) is powder. Chanel Initiation (827) (LE, $36.00) is darker, more sparkly. Urban Decay Radar (LE, $18.00) is darker, powder. Maybelline Downtown Brown (P, $6.99) is lighter, powder. Urban Decay Deeper (LE, $18.00) is darker, powder. Urban Decay Snakebite (LE, $18.00) is darker, powder. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

The Glossover

LE
palette

Where the Light Is

Temptalia Recommends
A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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LE
product

Glow

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

Cornelious

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Friday, April 17th, 2015

Anastasia Artist Palette
Anastasia Artist Palette

Anastasia Artist Palette ($30.00 for 0.30 oz.) is described as a set of “12 highly-pigmented eyeshadows” in “summertime’s bright colors.” There are two really disappointing shades in this–the navy blue and cobalt blue–that look like an absolute disaster on the skin without a white base underneath. In general, I have found Anastasia’s eyeshadow formula to perform poorly without a primer or white base underneath it for the more vibrant shades and anything that isn’t a metallic or frost finish. The more shimmery shades have better adhesion to bare skin, and they tend to be less powdery, so they don’t sheer away to nothingness when applied. Some of the shimmery shades can be soft enough that they get crumbly and appear almost dry or apply unevenly without a primer. I always want to like Anastasia’s palettes, but I’m often let down, and unfortunately, that was the case here. Without primer, it’s a lot like throwing spaghetti at the wall and hoping something sticks… evenly.

Dusty Rose is described as a “matte mauve.” It’s a medium-dark, muted plum with warm undertones and a matte finish. It had good color payoff, but it was fairly powdery, even though it was blendable. It applied better than I thought it would as it didn’t sheer away to nothing and lasted for seven and a half hours on me. This shade was previously released. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Aubergine is described as a “velvet eggplant.” It’s a medium-dark plum with warm undertones and lighter purple shimmer for a more pearly sheen. It had good pigmentation with a softer, thinner texture that had a more velvety, silky feeling to it and seemed to be a shade that applied with more nuance if you used your fingertips than a brush, as it tended to look less shimmery when applied with a brush. I had some issues with it “sticking” and not wanting to diffuse along the edge. It faded after seven and a half hours of wear. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Anaconda is described as a “shimmery green.” It’s a medium-dark forest green with warm, golden frosted shimmer. It had nice color payoff with a soft, blendable texture that applied well to bare skin and didn’t need primer to function. It wore well for eight hours on me. See comparison swatches> / compare dupes side-by-side.

Punch Fuchsia is described as a “velvet bright purple.” It’s a lightly brightened, pinky-purple with a violet sheen. It had fairly good pigmentation, though the texture was a smidgen dry, so it didn’t seem to stay as intense on the lid. It started to fade after eight hours of wear. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Buttery is described as a “velvet soft yellow.” It’s a soft, pale yellow with warm undertones and a matte finish. It had a very silky, almost cream-like feeling in the pan, which applied with good color payoff on bare skin and didn’t look chalky. It is a little powdery, though. It stayed on well for eight hours. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Blue Velvet is described as a “velvet navy.” It’s a muted, deepened navy blue with cool undertones and a sprinkling of lighter blue shimmer. The shimmer doesn’t translate much on the lid, and this is one of the worst shades in the palette. It is dry, powdery, sheer, thin, and difficult to blend and apply to the lid. It stuck in random places, and I tried packing it on six or seven times and none of it would stick beyond what initially landed. It had faded by five and a half hours of wear. It absolutely needs a white base to have a chance of performing half-decently. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Coal is described as a “matte black.” It’s a dark black with a mostly matte finish and neutral undertones. It had good pigmentation with a slight powderiness, but it wasn’t too bad. It needs a primer to help it blend, as it tended to adhere but become very stiff to diffuse/blend out along the edges. It wore well for eight hours. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Unicorn is described as a “shimmery periwinkle.” It’s a cobalt blue with a hint of purple with a smattering of silver shimmer over a matte finish. It is sheer, dry, powdery, short-wearing, and generally a real pain to use. It doesn’t build-up, because it doesn’t stick to bare skin but rather dusts away with a gentle breeze (or brush!). It seemed to last about five and a half hours, but there was so little in the first place, it’s not surprising. This is the type of color and finish that seems difficult for brands (in general) to do well. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Phresh is described as a “matte bright yellow.” It’s a brightened, light-medium yellow with warm undertones and a matte finish. It had decent color payoff, but it did sheer out and wasn’t easily blended on bare skin. Again–I’m sounding like a broken record–this palette really doesn’t work without a primer of some sort, due to the thinner, drier nature of the eyeshadow formula. It lasted for seven hours on me. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Baby I’m a Star is described as a “sparkling brown.” It’s a dark brown with warm, reddish undertones and a pearly sheen. It had a thin, stiffer texture that was harder to blend out on the skin. It had decent to good pigmentation, and it applied better when I was using it in practice than it did on my arm. I wish it was easier to use. The color wore well for seven and a half hours on me. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Orange You Fancy is described as a “shimmery orange.” It’s a brightened orange with warm undertones and a frosted, golden shimmer-sheen finish. The texture is incredibly soft, but it is also drier and crumbly, so there is a ton of excess product that gets picked up and dislodged from the pan. Though it is pigmented, the drier texture seemed to apply unevenly to my eyelid, so it didn’t appear as pigmented on. It wore well for eight hours. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Beigely is described as a “shimmery beige.” It’s a golden pewter with warm undertones and a more metallic finish. It had good color payoff, while the texture was smooth but a little stiffer in the pan. It’s not stiff per se, but it wasn’t as soft as the other shades in the palette. It ended up being easier to work with on the lid, as it applied more evenly. It started to fade after eight hours of wear. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

The Glossover

LE
palette

Artist

B-

Product

7.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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LE
product

Dusty Rose

B+

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

Aubergine

B+

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
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Thursday, April 16th, 2015

Tarte Empower Flower Amazonian Clay Collector's Palette
Tarte Empower Flower Amazonian Clay Collector’s Palette

Tarte Empower Flower Amazonian Clay Collector’s Palette ($42.00 for 0.64 oz.) includes eight eyeshadows, two blushes, and one bronzer. Tarte says it’s supposed to “empower you to play up your look from daytime to playtime,” though I’d say it’s more apt to say day to night, as there are some smokier, darkening shades that you could use for a more “nighttime” look. I tend to associate “playtime” with brighter, bolder, or more unique colors and/or finishes. It’s a disappointing palette with two exceptionally dismal eyeshadows and one unimpressive blush that really bring it down, but there were few shades here that were actually good.

I can understand when some feel that neutral palettes have reached a point of total saturation of the market, and I also understand that many are still hunting for just-the-right neutral palette. I also get that some brands have certain aesthetics, such as tarte, where they lean more towards neutral shades, which is perfectly fine. With that being said, I am a little confused why tarte released three neutral palettes for summer: this one, Poppy Picnic (C+), and Showstopper (B). Sadly, none of these were as good as their warm-toned neutral mega-palette V2 (A-) from last August or the all-matte neutral-hued Tartelette (B+). The majority of the shades in this palette were similar to other shades Tarte has done in the past (more so than usual it seemed to me).

Compassionate is described as a “cream.” It’s a light, slightly brightened beige with subtle, warm undertones and a matte finish. It had decent pigmentation but was powdery, so it was a little harder to work with on the skin so it didn’t look dry. It lasted for six and a half hours. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Vivacious is described as a “rose gold.” It’s a light-medium, muted gold with warm undertones and a metallic sheen. It had good color payoff with a soft, blendable consistency that stayed in place for seven and a half hours. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Pretty is described as a “bronze.” It’s a dark, coppered bronze with warm undertones and a soft, frosted finish. It had great pigmentation with a really soft, smooth, and blendable texture. The color lasted for eight hours on me before fading. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Powerful is described as a “dark brown.” It’s a dark brown with warm, yellow undertones and a matte finish. It had so-so pigmentation with a powdery, dry texture that was difficult to blend on the eye. It wore well for six and a half hours. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Energetic is described as a “taupe.” It’s a medium-dark, purple taupe with cool undertones and a matte finish. The color payoff was sheer with a very powdery, thin consistency that made it difficult to apply and blend on the skin. It lasted for five and a half hours. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Eco-chic is described as a “light plum.” It’s a dusty, muted mauve with warm undertones and a matte finish. It was, unfortunately, very powoder, which led to poor application, excess product everywhere (in the pan, applied–even after tapping off the excess). I had to really pat and pack it on and minimally blend the edges to keep it in place, but it was faded after five and a half hours. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Charitable is described as a “soft pink.” It’s a brightened, light pink-white with cool undertones and a satin finish. It was powdery but fairly pigmented, so I think it would apply better over a primer to avoid it sheering it out. It does get chalky on my medium complexion, so it is likely better suited for fairer skin. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Glamorous is described as a “dark plum.” It’s a deepened purple with a mostly matte finish and subtle, warm undertones. It had richer pigmentation, but the texture was somewhat powdery and dry, which made it harder to apply and blend evenly. It lasted for seven hours on me before creasing. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Trustworthy is described as a “nude mauve.” It’s a pink-peach with a satin sheen and warm undertones. The texture was very stiff and firm, so it was difficult to get any color coverage out of it. I used a paper towel to rub down the top layer, and the powder was easier to use, but it was very thin and dry–powder everywhere–and didn’t want to adhere to the skin well. It lasted for seven hours, which is quite below the 12-hours claimed. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Empowering is described as a “rose nude.” It’s a subdued, medium rosy pink with warm undertones and a satin finish. It had good pigmentation, but the texture was incredibly powdery to work with, even on the skin. With enough blending, I was able to tamp down a lot of the powderiness. This shade lasted for eight and a half hours on me. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Park Ave Princess is described as a “bronze.” It’s a medium-dark brown with warm, yellow undertones and a golden frosted sheen. It had good color payoff but had a powdery, drier texture. It didn’t look, powdery on the skin, thankfully, and it was blendable and easy to apply overall. I don’t understand why this product looks different in every palette I have. I just reviewed it in the Showstopper palette where it’s a darker, lightly warm-toned brown with a satin finish, and here we have this one that has several times the amount of warmth and shimmer. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

The Glossover

LE
palette

Empower Flower

C

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

7.5/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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LE
product

Compassionate

C+

Product

7.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

Vivacious

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

5/5

Results
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