Sunday, February 22nd, 2015

Guerlain Les Precieux Eyeshadow Quad
Guerlain Les Precieux Eyeshadow Quad

Guerlain Les Precieux Eyeshadow Quad ($65.00 for 0.25 oz.) is a new, limited edition palette for spring that features four shades ranging from olive green, peach, light yellow, and brown. A few of Guerlain’s quads I like, but a lot of them are less impressive. There’s definitely something different about the formula in the more recent iterations that is drier and more powdery, which has, in turn, made them sheerer, harder to apply, and shorter-wearing.

Les Precieux #1 is a medium-dark, olive green with warm undertones and a frosted sheen. It had good color payoff with a fairly soft texture–it felt a little dry to me–that blended easily, so it tended to look sheerer when actually applied (without a base to help it). It wore well for seven hours. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Les Precieux #2 is a light, frosty pink-peach with warm undertones. It had semi-sheer color coverage with a drier texture, though it didn’t feel stiff, but it just didn’t adhere well to the skin. It lasted for six hours before fading. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Les Precieux #3 is a buttery light yellow gold with a frosted finish with white sparkle. The texture was somewhat dry with a powderiness to it. It had semi-opaque color payoff, but it didn’t stick to bare skin well. It lasted for six and a half hours on me. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Les Precieux #4 is a medium-dark, golden brown with warm undertones and a frosted finish. It had good pigmentation that applied smoothly and evenly with a really rich, buttery texture. It wore well for eight hours on me. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

LE
palette

Les Precieux (504)

B-

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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LE
product

Les Precieux #1

B+

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

Les Precieux #2

D+

Product

6.5/10

Pigmentation

6.5/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

6.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Sunday, February 22nd, 2015

NARS Adoration Dual-Intensity Blush
NARS Adoration Dual-Intensity Blush

NARS Adoration Dual-Intensity Blush ($45.00 for 0.21 oz.) is one of six duos that will be available on March 4th. The lighter shade was best applied dry, as damp application resulted in such a metallic finish that it was more like a flashing, neon sign that said, “Hey, my skin isn’t perfect! I have pores! And texture!” The darker shade ended up becoming much, much more pigmented when applied damp, but it become too shimmery, and it lasted longer that way. It was easier to apply, blend, and control applied dry, though, and coverage was buildable so greater intensity was achievable with two or three passes. Wear time is fairly good regardless of application method, but I get slightly longer results with a damp application. The texture is firm, but smooth, and it doesn’t feel dry or stiff, but it seems to have a firmer press overall.

The formula is supposed to have a “weightless, luxurious texture” that can be used wet or dry. The wet application is supposed to give a “translucent wash of color,” while dry application yields “a natural glow that warms the complexion.” If you’ve tried MAC Extra Dimension Blush and MAC Extra Dimension Skinfinish, the formulas are similar. Estee Lauder, Lancome, and Laura Mercier have all done cheek products with a similar wet/dry kind of formula.

Nearly across the board, there was either negligible color payoff difference between wet and dry applications, but when there was a difference, it was typically much more pigmented. The shades tended to apply with a more metallic/shimmery finish when applied with a dampened brush and emphasized pores. The fact that it was more pigmented applied damp may be great news for some, but it is the opposite of how the formula was described (which is how I rate products), so you will see that have a negative impact on the ratings. It is interesting that it was described as a wash when applied wet, as this is the opposite of the Dual-Intensity Eyeshadow formula.

With the new blush formula, NARS also added a Wet/Dry Blush Brush to their assortment of brushes. I’m trying to give the brush more chances, but I had great difficulty using it with their formula, particularly wet, where it tended to lift the product and leave the results looking patchy, even over bare skin. With enough effort and a very, barely-there touch and some fingertip blending, I could manage fairly even color over bare skin. However, it was impossible to use over a liquid foundation, as it moved and lifted the foundation in places. I far preferred using MAC’s 159 stippling brush, which worked well for both wet and dry applications. Ultra-soft brushes by Chikuhodo and SUQQU didn’t pick-up product well with this formula. Some of the deeper shades do work with those feathery, ultra-soft brushes.

Adoration (Left) is described as a “sparkling baby pink.” It’s a light-medium pink with subtle, warm undertones and white shimmer and slightly larger silver-white sparkle. The texture was firm but smooth with semi-opaque color coverage dry and mostly opaque coverage damp. It had more of a frosted finish when it was applied dry, and it very slightly emphasized pores but for the most impart imparted a high-shine sheen and lasted for seven and a half hours. When I applied it damp, it was much more metallic and emphasized every pore and imperfection, but it wore well for eight and a half hours. The effect can be luminous without being emphasized by patting translucent or flesh-colored powder over it. MAC Just a Wisp (P, $27.00) is less shimmery. Makeup Geek First Love (P, $9.99) is less shimmery, cooler-toned. MAC For Your Amusement (LE, $20.00) is less shimmery. MAC Azalea in the Afternoon (LE, $27.00) is less shimmery, warmer. Physicians Formula Rose (P, $11.99) is warmer. Lancome Moonlight Rose (LE, $42.00) is less shimmery, lighter. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Adoration (Right) is described as a “shimmering hot pink.” It’s a medium-dark pink with subtle, cool undertones and a satiny sheen. Applied dry, it was semi-sheer and buildable, with a more satin-like finish that gave the skin a lovely glow that didn’t draw attention to pores, and it lasted for eight hours on me. Applied damp, it was intensely pigmented with nearly opaque coverage from the get-go, and you’ll want to apply the smallest amount and build-up, or else you’ll have a lot of work ahead of you. The dampened application intensifies the sheen, but it doesn’t turn metallic, so it still gives a glow without emphasizing the texture of the skin, and applied this way, the blush lasted for nine hours. Makeup Geek Love Affair (P, $9.99) is warmer. MAC Peaches & Cream (LE, $21.00) is similar. MAC Sunset Beach (LE, $32.00) is similar. YSL Fuchsia Desinvolte (01) (P, $40.00) is less shimmery. Clinique Berry Pop (03) (P, $21.00) is brighter, cooler-toned. Illamasqua Peaked (P, $26.00) is more muted. Chanel Affinite (65) (P, $38.00) is lighter. Tom Ford Beauty Wicked (P, $55.00) is cooler-toned, more muted. Tom Ford Beauty Narcissist (LE, $55.00) is cooler-toned. NYX Bourgeois Pig (P, $5.00) is less shimmery. MAC Supernova (LE, $27.00) is similar. See comparison swatchesview dupes.

P.S. — I am testing the wet and dry application for each shade, so one duo is the equivalent of testing four blushes, and while I will work diligently through the six, I may not get be able to test all of them before the official release date (it really depends on how long each shade wears and whether I can test more than one shade per cheek per day!)–just as a heads up.

The Glossover

P
palette

Adoration

B

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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P
product

Adoration (Left)

B-

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
P
product

Adoration (Right)

B+

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes

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Thursday, February 19th, 2015

Laura Mercier Watercolour Mist Eye & Cheek Palette
Laura Mercier Watercolour Mist Eye & Cheek Palette

Laura Mercier Watercolour Mist Eye & Cheek Palette ($58.00 for 0.332 oz.) contains six eyeshadows and two cheek colors. Everything about this palette was a disappointment. It’s a bit like wearing a bunch of faded, barely-there eyeshadows that just make your natural lid look muddied, dreary, and powdery. Both cheek colors were stiff and required a spatula to scrape off color to get anything to show up in a swatch, but I couldn’t get either to visibly appear on my cheeks. The eyeshadows are very soft and powdery, and unfortunately, most of them blend away to poor versions of themselves in practice. I was a bit surprised, because it swatched better than anticipated, but it was a mess trying to use this. The only way to salvage it would be use to a white, tacky/creamy base. The only nice thing about this is the packaging, which has “water’ droplets on the exterior (exactly like MAC’s Alluring Aquatic collection).

Mist is a muted, light-medium green-teal with strong gray and cool undertones. It had a satin finish. It had decent color payoff but was so soft that it sheered out to semi-sheer coverage. It was noticeably faded after five hours of wear. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Fog is a light-medium, khaki green with subtle, warm undertones and a satin finish. The texture was soft yet powdery enough that it tended to blend away to a rather sheer, faded color applied to the lid in practice. It wore well for five and a half hours on me. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Storm is a muted, overcast green with subtle, warmer undertones and a satin finish. It had semi-opaque color coverage but was prone to sheering out to a very faded, sheerer version of itself. It only wore well for six hours on me. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Wind is a soft, muted pink-lavender with hints of gray and a subtle, warmer undertone and a matte finish. The color payoff was mostly opaque, but it had a somewhat powdery texture that made it difficult to keep at that intensity–it wanted to sheer out almost instantly. It lasted for six hours on me. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Purple Rain is a cool-toned, purple-gray with a semi-matte finish. It had so-so pigmentation with a soft texture that was somewhat powdery. It was faded within six hours. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Cloud is a muted, medium-dark gray with cool undertones and a matte finish. It was powdery, semi-sheer, and lasted a mere five hours on me. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Sunset (Cheek Color) is a pink-peach with subtle warm undertones and a satin finish. I had to chip away at the pan’s surface to dislodge product with a metal spatula, because the surface was so firm and hard that it nearly felt like plastic. What I managed to scrape away ended up being chalky, powdery, and dry. I couldn’t get it to show up on my skin tone, but I did see a slightly chalky cast in person, though it seemed to disappear nearly instantly, because it was gone less than an hour later. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

Earth (Cheek Color) is a medium-dark reddish brown with a satin finish. It had a similarly hard surface that required scraping to get any product out of it for swatching. It was powdery, dry, prone to fading, and incredibly difficult to blend on the skin. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

The Glossover

LE
palette

Watercolour Mist

F

Product

5/10

Pigmentation

6.5/10

Texture

5/10

Longevity

4.5/10

Application

3/5

Results
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LE
product

Mist

D+

Product

6/10

Pigmentation

8.6/10

Texture

6/10

Longevity

5.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Dupes
LE
product

Fog

C

Product

6/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

6/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Tuesday, February 17th, 2015

Burberry Nude (No. 002) Wet & Dry Glow Shadow
Burberry Nude (No. 002) Wet & Dry Glow Shadow

Burberry Nude (No. 002) Wet & Dry Glow Shadow ($29.00 for 0.06 oz.) is a medium-dark golden brown with a hint of gray and a frosted, metallic finish. MAC Force of Nature #1 (LE, $21.00) is darker. Too Faced Rum Raisin (P, $16.00) is warmer. Kat Von D 3AM (LE) is cooler-toned. Makeup Geek Mesmerized (P, $9.99) is darker, cooler-toned. Charlotte Tilbury Fallen Angel #2 (LE) is very similar. Urban Decay Resist (LE, $18.00) is slightly darker. Make Up For Ever I550 Olive Gray (P, $21.00) is lighter, less shimmery. Make Up For Ever D562 Taupe Platinum (P, $21.00) is warmer. Marc Jacobs Beauty Au Revoir (406) (P, $28.00) is a cream product. NARS Dione (P, $29.00) is lighter. NARS Himalia (P, $29.00) is lighter. Giorgio Armani #09 (P, $32.00) is darker. MAC Superwatt (LE, $21.00) is a cream product. bareMinerals A-Ha (P) is lighter. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

If you’re a fan of formulas like MAC In Extra Dimension, NARS Dual Intensity, Estee Lauder Pure Color Gelee, or the newest Tom Ford Eye Color Duos, you’ll probably like Burberry’s newest wet/dry formula. It’s very, very similar (as they all are), but I think Burberry’s achieved the silkiest, smoothest iteration, which gives it the best texture of all that I’ve tried. Much to my dismay, I only purchased one of the four shades available, and I managed to snag one more, but the other two are on backorder.

The brand describes the formula as “high-pigment colour with light-reflecting technology.” It can be used wet or dry, with wet application supposed to yield more “vibrant intensity.” Applied dry, it is slightly softer and is easier to sheer out if desired, and applied damp, it darkens slightly and becomes more metallic. The powder is incredibly easy to blend on the skin that it is nearly effortless to get a soft, diffused edge. It’s a denser product that doesn’t feel heavy but adheres well to the skin, which makes it so easy to use. When I tested for wear, the color lasted well for nine and a half hours before creasing slightly.

The Glossover

P
product

Nude (No. 002)

Temptalia Recommends
A+

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
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Tuesday, February 17th, 2015

Chanel Mysterio (102) Illusion d'Ombre Eyeshadow
Chanel Mysterio (102) Illusion d’Ombre Eyeshadow

Chanel Mysterio (102) Illusion d’Ombre Eyeshadow ($36.00 for 0.14 oz.) is a bright, metallic silver that runs neutral-to-warm-toned. Kat Von D Moonshine (LE) is cooler-toned. Make Up For Ever ME202 Iceberg Blue (P, $21.00) is lighter, cooler-toned. Ulta Silver (P, $10.00) is lighter. MAC A Waft of Grey #2 (P, $21.00) is similar. Sleek MakeUP Pretty in Paris (LE, $9.99) is brighter. NARS Interstellar (P, $25.00) is cooler-toned. Giorgio Armani Silver Chafer (35) (LE, $33.00) is darker. Marc Jacobs Beauty The Starlet #6 (P) is cooler-toned. Maybelline Silver Strike (P, $6.99) is cooler-toned. MAC Extra Silver (LE, $19.50) is similar. Chanel Infini (P, $29.50) is lighter. Chanel Fantasme (P, $36.00) is lighter, whiter. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

It has a very mirror-like metallic sheen applied to the lid, as it is incredibly reflective. The texture was soft, smooth, and blendable, so it was easy to apply it all-over the lid and blend out the edges. I applied it with a flat, synthetic concealer brush and used the edges of the brush to soften the color extending past the crease. The color payoff was mostly opaque, but it seemed buildable. It also sheers out nicely if you prefer a wash of shimmer rather than full coverage. On me, the eyeshadow lasted for ten hours before creasing, but there was some shimmer fall out over time.

The Glossover

P
product

Mysterio (102)

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
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Tuesday, February 17th, 2015

Chanel Perle de Lune (916) Stylo Waterproof Eyeliner
Chanel Perle de Lune (916) Stylo Waterproof Eyeliner

Chanel Perle de Lune (916) Stylo Waterproof Eyeliner ($32.00 for 0.01 oz.) is a taupe brown with a silvered, metallic sheen. Sephora Collection Flirting Game (P, $9.00) is darker, less metallic. Giorgio Armani Quarzo (2) (LE, $34.00) is lighter. MAC It’s Physical (LE, $16.00) is less metallic. Guerlain Amber Silver (05) (P, $30.00) is lighter. Urban Decay Stray Dog (LE, $19.00) is darker. Urban Decay Underground (P, $19.00) is darker, less metallic. Urban Decay Mushroom (P, $19.00) is warmer. MAC Catch My Eye (LE, $16.00) is cooler-toned, lighter. See comparison swatches / view dupes.

I never learn; this is just not a formula that I can get to work for me. Chanel says the formula is supposed to be “gentle [and] soft” for “smooth, even lining,” while it is also listed as waterproof. It’s a stiffer, firmer eyeliner that tugs at the lower lash line and never feels pleasant to use. I’m able to get some color payoff when I’ve used it on my lower lash line, but I always have to go back two or three times to get even, semi-opaque coverage. On the upside, it did wear well and was waterproof when I tested it, with the eyeliner lasting nine hours on me.

The Glossover

LE
product

Perle de Lune (916)

D+

Product

6/10

Pigmentation

5.5/10

Texture

6.5/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

3.5/5

Results
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Dupes
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