Saturday, June 6th, 2015

BUXOM Customizable Eyeshadow Bar Palette
BUXOM Customizable Eyeshadow Bar Palette

BUXOM Silk Sheets Eyeshadow ($12.00 for 0.05 oz.) is described as a “chai luster.” It’s a light, neutrla-to-warm-toned beige with a frosted finish. It seems warm-toned in the pan, but it reads almost cool-toned against my warmer skin tone. It had good color payoff with a really soft, smooth texture that was incredibly easy to work with. The color lasted for eight and a half hours on me. Cle de Peau Marmalade Sky #2 (P, ) is more shimmery. Buxom Satin Seduction (P, $12.00) is lighter. Tom Ford Beauty Pink Glow #1 (LE, ) is lighter. Colour Pop Acorn (LE, $5.00) is cooler. Lancome My French #4 (LE, ) is more shimmery, brighter. Hourglass Exposure #1 (P, ) is warmer. Makeup Geek Shimma Shimma (P, $5.99) is warmer. MAC Satin Ochre (Left) (LE, ) is warmer. Cle de Peau Stardust #1 (P, ) is less shimmery, darker. Chanel Poesie #2 (LE, ) is less shimmery, warmer. Chanel Poesie #2 (LE, ) is less shimmery, warmer. Charlotte Tilbury Fallen Angel #1 (LE, ) is warmer. LORAC Vanilla (LE, ) is lighter, brighter. theBalm High Tide (LE, $16.00) is less shimmery. Make Up For Ever I514 Pink Ivory (P, $21.00) is less shimmery. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

BUXOM Bold Bling Eyeshadow ($12.00 for 0.05 oz.) is described as a “metallic rose gold.” It’s a coppery brown with warm, orange-brown undertones and a metallic sheen. It had rich, opaque coverage with a really soft, smooth consistency that wasn’t powdery at all. The texture worked well on the skin with good adhesion and blendability, while it lasted for eight and a half hours before fading. Makeup Geek Grandstand (P, $9.99) is warmer. Make Up For Ever ME644 Iced Brown (P, $21.00) is darker. Kat Von D Nephilim (LE, ) is darker. MAC Retrospeck #2 (LE, $16.00) is darker. theBalm Manic Maribel (LE, $16.00) is warmer. Urban Decay Chopper (P, $18.00) is warmer. bareMinerals Tan Lines (LE, ) is warmer. Makeup Geek Homecoming (P, $5.99) is less shimmery, darker, cooler. Make Up For Ever ME612 Silver Brown (P, $21.00) is less shimmery, darker. LORAC Unattainable (P, ) is darker. Anastasia Gilded (LE, $12.00) is darker. Dior Cuir Cannage #4 (P, ) is less shimmery, darker. Stila Thought (P, ) is darker, cooler. Marc Jacobs Beauty The Dreamer #2 (P, ) is lighter, brighter, warmer. Colour Pop Snakebite (LE, $5.00) is more shimmery, lighter. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

BUXOM Mink Magnet Eyeshadow ($12.00 for 0.05 oz.) is described as a “metallic bronze.” It’s a subdued, medium-dark taupe brown with warm undertones and a sparkly, frosted sheen. The texture was drier and a little crumbly, as the sparkles seemed to separate from the base color, so it didn’t adhere as smoothly to the skin. The color lasted for eight hours, but I had some minor fall out during wear. Burberry Pale Barley (102) (P, $29.00) is less shimmery, lighter. MAC Force of Nature #1 (LE, $21.00) is darker, more muted. Too Faced Rum Raisin (P, $16.00) is less shimmery, darker. Makeup Geek Mesmerized (P, $9.99) is darker. Charlotte Tilbury Fallen Angel #2 (LE, ) is darker. Urban Decay Resist (LE, $18.00) is darker, warmer. MAC Quintessential (LE, $16.00) is warmer. Make Up For Ever I550 Olive Gray (P, $21.00) is less shimmery. Make Up For Ever D562 Taupe Platinum (P, $21.00) is darker. Too Faced Ska (P, $16.00) is less shimmery, darker. Urban Decay Underground (DC, $18.00) is darker, more muted. Giorgio Armani #09 (P, $32.00) is less shimmery, darker, cooler. MAC Superwatt (LE, $21.00) is less shimmery. Cle de Peau Satin Moon #3 (P, ) is less shimmery. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

BUXOM Haute Couture Eyeshadow ($12.00 for 0.05 oz.) is described as a “metallic java.” It’s a rich, dark bronze brown with warm undertones and a pearly sheen. It had nice color payoff that went on smoothly and evenly with a soft texture that was hair on the powdery side, but it wasn’t noticeable on the lid. It wore well for nine hours on me before fading. Chanel Topkapi #1 (LE, ) is less shimmery, darker. Inglot #409 (P, $6.00) is warmer. bareMinerals Embellish (LE, ) is darker. Sleek MakeUP Lust in LA (LE, $9.99) is more shimmery, lighter. Urban Decay Radar (P, $18.00) is lighter, warmer. MAC Brownluxe #4 (P, ) is less shimmery. Disney by Sephora Abu (LE, ) is darker. Le Metier de Beaute Autumn Rust (LE, $30.00) is warmer. MAC Bao Bao’s Jewels #4 (LE, ) is more shimmery. Charlotte Tilbury Mona Lisa (P, $32.00) is warmer. Sephora + Pantone Universe Bracken (LE, ) is less shimmery. Marc Jacobs Beauty The Enigma #6 (P, ) is lighter. Colour Pop Mooning (P, $5.00) is lighter, warmer. Burberry Gold #1 (LE, ) is warmer. Make Up For Ever ME614 Graphite Brown (P, $21.00) is less shimmery, darker, more muted. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

BUXOM Jetsetter Eyeshadow ($12.00 for 0.05 oz.) is described as a “matte greige.” It’s a medium-dark, gray taupe with cool undertones and a matte finish. It had good pigmentation, though the texture had a drier, thin feel that was powdery. Luckily, it seemed to adhere well to the skin and still work well, especially when it came to blending it out, but you’ll definitely want to tap off your brush prior to applying to the lid to avoid fall out during application (but there was none during wear). It lasted for eight and a half hours before fading. Guerlain Two VIP #2 (LE, ) is more shimmery, lighter. MAC Smoked Cocoa #2 (LE, $16.00) is lighter. MAC Brains & Brawn (LE, $16.00) is lighter. Sephora + Pantone Universe Deep Taupe (LE, ) is more shimmery, lighter. LORAC Stone (LE, ) is warmer. theBalm #25 (P, $6.50) is lighter. Make Up For Ever M106 Slate (P, $21.00) is darker. Urban Decay Password (P, $18.00) is warmer. bareMinerals Priceless (LE, ) is darker. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

BUXOM Designer or Die Eyeshadow ($12.00 for 0.05 oz.) is described as a “matte beige.” It’s a cool-toned, light-medium gray-beige with a satin-matte finish. It was slightly powdery but remained very blendable and still adhered well to bare skin in practice. It had good color payoff and lasted for eight hours. Urban Decay Naked 2 (P, $18.00) is darker, warmer. Urban Decay Frisk (P, $18.00) is warmer. Inglot #350 (P, $6.00) is lighter. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Formula Summary: It is a new formula that is available as a customizable palette system, where you can purchase a single shade and an individual compact for $13 or purchase a six-pan palette, plus six eyeshadows to go inside of it, for $40. Each eyeshadow is held inside a metal pan that is (presumably) glued into a plastic pan that snaps into the compact/palette. The eyeshadows are easily lifted in and out of the palette, so you can rearrange them or create a new combination if you have more than one set of six. They will fit into a Z-palette, but you’ll need to add a magnet to keep it in place. The eyeshadow formula is one that works better in action than swatched, as several of the mattes seemed on the thinner, more powdery side, but then they would blend exceptionally well while adhering to bare skin–and they wouldn’t fade any faster than the more shimmery eyeshadows. The more shimmery shades tended to outperform the matte shades with better color payoff. These eyeshadows seem to have a slightly firmer press to them (more in the style of your average MAC eyeshadow), and they feel quite different compared to bareMinerals’ Ready line, as those have a thicker, denser consistency.

The Glossover

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product

Silk Sheets

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
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P
product

Bold Bling

A

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
P
product

Mink Magnet

C+

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

6.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Saturday, June 6th, 2015

BUXOM Customizable Eyeshadow Bar Palette
BUXOM Customizable Eyeshadow Bar Palette

BUXOM Eyeshadow ($12.00 for 0.05 oz. each or $40.00 for 6 x 0.05 oz.) is a new formula that is available as a customizable palette system, where you can purchase a single shade and an individual compact for $13 or purchase a six-pan palette, plus six eyeshadows to go inside of it, for $40. Each eyeshadow is held inside a metal pan that is (presumably) glued into a plastic pan that snaps into the compact/palette. The eyeshadows are easily lifted in and out of the palette, so you can rearrange them or create a new combination if you have more than one set of six. They will fit into a Z-palette, but you’ll need to add a magnet to keep it in place. The eyeshadow formula is one that works better in action than swatched, as several of the mattes seemed on the thinner, more powdery side, but then they would blend exceptionally well while adhering to bare skin–and they wouldn’t fade any faster than the more shimmery eyeshadows. The more shimmery shades tended to outperform the matte shades with better color payoff. These eyeshadows seem to have a slightly firmer press to them (more in the style of your average MAC eyeshadow), and they feel quite different compared to bareMinerals’ Ready line, as those have a thicker, denser consistency.

BUXOM Pre-nup Eyeshadow ($12.00 for 0.05 oz.) is described as a “shimmering emerald.” It’s a softened, medium-dark emerald green with cool undertones and a frosted sheen. It had great color payoff with a soft, blendable consistency that was a little powdery in the pan but didn’t look powdery on the skin. The color wore well for eight and a half hours before fading. NYX Seafoam Green (P, $4.50) is cooler. Make Up For Ever #52 (LE, $23.00) is warmer. Disney by Sephora Fins (LE, ) is less pigmented, warmer. Make Up For Ever ME304 Emerald (P, $21.00) is darker. Urban Decay Indo (P, $18.00) is darker. Hello Kitty Three Apples (LE, ) is darker, more muted. Colour Pop Empire (P, $5.00) is darker, warmer. Too Faced Christmas Tree (LE, $16.00) is darker, more muted, warmer. Colour Pop Empire (P, $5.00) is darker, warmer. Sugarpill Clickbait (P, $13.00) is lighter, warmer. YSL Misty Green (09) (P, $30.00) is less shimmery, warmer. Sugarpill Midori (P, $12.00) is less shimmery, darker, more muted. Buxom Saint Bernard (P, $18.00) is less shimmery, lighter.
See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

BUXOM Schmooze Eyeshadow ($12.00 for 0.05 oz.) is described as a “shimmering turquoise.” It’s a brightened, slightly lighter-than-medium blue with a frosted sheen and almost “warm” undertones (but it is cool-toned). It had intense color payoff with a really soft, smooth texture that blended beautifully on the skin while wearing for eight and a half hours. Kat Von D Bukowski (LE, ) is less shimmery, darker. Sleek MakeUP Sunset #6 (P, $9.99) is darker, cooler. Urban Decay Unhinged (LE, $18.00) is darker, more muted, cooler. Disney by Sephora Diamond Sky (LE, ) is darker, more muted. Disney by Sephora Blue Lagoon (LE, ) is less shimmery, darker. Urban Decay Peace (P, $18.00) is darker. NARS South Pacific #1 (P, $24.00) is less shimmery, darker, warmer. MAC Parrot (LE, $16.00) is less shimmery, darker, warmer. Make Up For Ever ME232 Turquoise Blue (P, $21.00) is darker, brighter. Giorgio Armani Jade (03) (P, $38.00) is more muted, warmer. Urban Decay Freeze (LE, $18.00) is darker, more muted, warmer. Make Up For Ever I210 Light Turquoise (P, $21.00) is lighter. Sleek MakeUP Acid #6 (P, $9.99) is more shimmery, lighter, cooler. Dior Rivage #3 (LE, ) is lighter, cooler. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

BUXOM Luxe Life Eyeshadow ($12.00 for 0.05 oz.) is described as a “glimmering periwinkle.” It’s a brightened, medium-dark cornflower blue with cool, bluish-violet undertones and a faint lighter blue shimmer over a mostly matte finish. It had so-so pigmentation, which is likely due to the thinner, more powdery consistency. It looked better on the eye, as it was buildable, but it is a shade that needs extra help. It lasted for seven and a half hours on me. Hello Kitty Dear Daniel (LE, ) is lighter. Sugarpill Royal Sugar (P, $13.00) is darker, brighter. Sugarpill Velocity (P, $12.00) is darker, brighter. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

BUXOM Posh Purple Eyeshadow ($12.00 for 0.05 oz.) is described as a “shimmering violet.” It’s a lightly brightened, medium-dark violet purple with cool, blue undertones and a frosted finish. It was slightly drier and more powdery, which resulted in more semi-opaque coverage. It was buildable and with a denser brush, more opaque color was possible. This shade stayed on well for eight hours. Urban Decay Ransom (DC, $18.00) is less shimmery. Milani Primary #4 (P, $6.99) is darker. Disney by Sephora Sea Witch (LE, ) is less shimmery, darker. Fyrinnae Because Cats (P, $6.80) is darker, more muted. Sleek MakeUP Bliss in Barcelona (LE, $9.99) is darker. Makeup Geek Pop Culture (P, $5.99) is lighter. Sleek MakeUP Simbad’s Seas (LE, $9.99) is more shimmery, darker, cooler. MAC Sexy PB&J (LE, $16.00) is lighter, warmer. Makeup Geek Caitlin Rose (P, $9.99) is less shimmery, lighter, warmer. Hello Kitty Supercute (LE, ) is less shimmery, warmer. Ardency Inn Royal (P, $21.00) is darker, warmer. Anastasia Iridescent Purple (P, $12.00) is warmer. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

BUXOM Wild Nights Eyeshadow ($12.00 for 0.05 oz.) is described as a “shimmering sugar plum.” It’s a medium-dark plum with warm, orange undertones and a pink, frosted sheen. It had good color coverage with a blendable consistency, but it was slightly dry in overall texture–yet it worked really well on the skin. On me, the color started to crease after eight and a half hours. Makeup Geek Enchanted (P, $6.99) is darker, warmer. Sleek MakeUP A Vow in Venice (LE, $9.99) is less shimmery, darker. Urban Decay Last Call (P, $18.00) is darker. MAC Heritage Rouge (P, $21.00) is less shimmery, darker, warmer. NARS Desdemona (P, $29.00) is less shimmery. MAC Hidden Motive (LE, $16.00) is less shimmery, cooler. Make Up For Ever ME840 Pink Chrome (P, $21.00) is more shimmery, lighter. Gucci Beauty Autumn Fire #3 (P, ) is less shimmery, darker. MAC Plummed (LE, $16.00) is less shimmery, darker. MAC Trusted Instinct #3 (LE, ) is darker, more muted. LORAC Merlot (LE, ) is less shimmery, darker. Anastasia Sangria (P, $12.00) is less shimmery, warmer. Tom Ford Beauty Pink Glow #3 (LE, ) is less shimmery, darker, warmer. Anastasia Pink Sapphire (LE, $12.00) is darker. Zoeva Warm Notes (P, ) is cooler. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

BUXOM 24KT Stilettos Eyeshadow ($12.00 for 0.05 oz.) is described as a “metallic gold.” It’s a brightened, medium gold with a metallic sheen and subtle gold sparkle. It’s an almost cool-toned gold, but it is still a yellowed gold. It was really rich in color, but the texture was so soft that it was on the powdery side. The color started to fade after nine hours of wear. Chanel Topkapi #4 (LE, ) is darker. Make Up For Ever #11 (P, $23.00) is darker. Urban Decay Disco (LE, $18.00) is less shimmery, more muted. Colour Pop Get Lucky (P, $5.00) is less shimmery, darker. Chanel Rêve d’Orient #3 (LE, ) is lighter. Gucci Beauty Antique Gold (P, $37.00) is lighter. Marc Jacobs Beauty The Starlet #5 (P, ) is warmer. Marc Jacobs Beauty The Siren #4 (LE, ) is lighter, brighter, warmer. Urban Decay Blitz (LE, $18.00) is darker. Urban Decay Spell #1 (LE, $18.00) is darker. Urban Decay Stargazer (P, $20.00) is more shimmery, darker. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

The Glossover

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product

Pre-nup

A

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
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P
product

Schmooze

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
P
product

Luxe Life

C

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

7.5/10

Texture

6.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Friday, June 5th, 2015

Make Up For Ever S314 Nile Green Artist Shadow
Make Up For Ever S314 Nile Green Artist Shadow

Make Up For Ever I902 Quartz Artist Shadow ($19.00 for 0.08 oz.) is a light, pastel pink with a frosted sheen and cool undertones. It had good color payoff with a soft, blendable consistency that wore well for eight and a half hours before fading. Clarins Garden Escape #5 (LE, ) is warmer. Dior Jardin #4 (P, ) is lighter. Guerlain Cygne Blanc #1 (LE, ) is warmer. Colour Pop Eye Candy (P, $5.00) is less shimmery, darker. MAC Pink Sensibilities #2 (LE, $21.00) is more shimmery. MAC Harpooned Heart (LE, $16.00) is more shimmery, lighter. Milani Bella Pink (13) (P, $4.49) is darker, cooler. Marc Jacobs Beauty The Tease #5 (P, ) is warmer. Dior Rosee (141) (LE, $31.00) is more shimmery. MAC Joy & Laughter #1 (P, $21.00) is darker, more muted. MAC Kitschmas (P, $21.00) is more shimmery, darker. MAC Seedy Pearl (DC, $16.00) is darker. Bobbi Brown Cool Lilac (P, $24.00) is darker, more muted. Too Faced Strawberry Ice (LE, $16.00) is lighter. Milani Bella Rose (29) (P, $4.49) is less shimmery. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Make Up For Ever I904 Cotton Candy Artist Shadow ($19.00 for 0.08 oz.) is a brightened, light-medium cotton candy pink with cool, blue undertones and a sprinkling of iridescent white and violet shimmer that gives it a more pearly sheen. It had nice pigmentation with a soft, smooth consistency that applies really evenly to the lid. The color lasted for eight and a half hours before fading slightly. Make Up For Ever I858 Flamingo (P, $21.00) is warmer. Make Up For Ever I864 Baby Pink (P, $21.00) is lighter, brighter. Too Faced Jingle All the Way Eyeshadow #5 (LE, $16.00) is more shimmery, lighter. Urban Decay Coax (LE, $18.00) is more shimmery, lighter. Guerlain Boulevard du Montparnasse #3 (LE, ) is more shimmery. Milani Bella Fuchsia (26) (P, $4.49) is lighter. Dior House of Pinks #3 (LE, ) is brighter, better quality. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Make Up For Ever I916 Frosted Mauve Artist Shadow ($19.00 for 0.08 oz.) is a pale lavender with cool undertones and icy white shimmer. It had a soft frosted finish. The texture was soft but a little drier in the pan, even though it doesn’t feel dry or powdery, but it was a little harder to dislodge the product from the pan. It had semi-opaque coverage and lasted for eight hours me. Fyrinnae Unicorn (P, $8.25) is more shimmery, glossier. MAC Great Beyond #3 (LE, $21.00) is lighter. Dior Rosee (141) (LE, $31.00) is more shimmery, warmer. MAC Great Beyond #3 (LE, $21.00) is lighter. Colour Pop Eye Candy (P, $5.00) is darker, warmer. bareMinerals Skinny Dip (LE, ) is lighter. MAC Crystal (DC, $16.00) is darker. MAC Fresh Ice (LE, $21.00) is less shimmery. Urban Decay Aura #2 (LE, $18.00) is more shimmery, lighter. MAC Triple Impact (LE, $20.00) is lighter. Inglot #440 (P, $6.00) is more shimmery, lighter, brighter. MAC Ready to Party (P, $20.00) is less shimmery. Urban Decay Tonic (P, $18.00) is lighter. Kat Von D Astrological (LE, ) is . Kat Von D Gravitron (LE, ) is brighter. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Make Up For Ever S314 Nile Green Artist Shadow ($19.00 for 0.08 oz.) is a light-medium, mint green with warm undertones and a pearly sheen. It had good color payoff, but it was a little more challenging to apply as opaque on the lid as it appeared in the swatch. I had the best results when applying it with a flat, synthetic brush. It started to crease after eight and a half hours of wear. Makeup Geek Shore Thing (P, $5.99) is less shimmery, lighter. Guerlain Blue Ocean (LE, $32.00) is cooler. theBalm #36 (P, $6.50) is more shimmery, lighter. Make Up For Ever I332 Meadow Green (P, $21.00) is darker, warmer. Make Up For Ever I332 Meadow Green (P, $21.00) is darker, warmer. Colour Pop Chipper (P, $5.00) is more shimmery, darker. Colour Pop Flux (LE, $5.00) is less shimmery, lighter, brighter. Disney by Sephora Cinderelly (LE, ) is darker, warmer. Sleek MakeUP Evergreen (P, $9.99) is more shimmery, darker, warmer. Disney by Sephora Atlantica (LE, ) is lighter, warmer. Make Up For Ever #53 (LE, $23.00) is more shimmery, brighter. Guerlain Coup de Foudre #3 (LE, ) is more shimmery, darker, warmer. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Make Up For Ever S208 Baby Blue Artist Shadow ($19.00 for 0.08 oz.) is light-medium, brightened sky blue with a soft, pearly shimmer. It had good pigmentation, but like S314, it was a challenge to apply and blend–it had an uneven, almost dry look on the skin that seemed to emphasize the skin’s natural texture. While it lasted for eight hours before fading, it never looked good. Urban Decay Peace (P, $18.00) is more shimmery, darker. Giorgio Armani Swimming Pool Turquoise (LE, ) is darker, more muted. Colour Pop Beauty Call (LE, $5.00) is more shimmery, darker, brighter, less pigmented, more muted, lighter. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Make Up For Ever S404 Straw Yellow Artist Shadow ($19.00 for 0.08 oz.) is softened, light-medium yellow with warm undertones and a satiny finish. It had nice color coverage with a soft, blendable texture that wore well for nine hours. theBalm #12 (P, $6.50) is lighter. Makeup Geek Yellow Brick Road (P, $5.99) is darker. Wet ‘n’ Wild Your 15 Minutes Aren’t Up #1 (LE, $2.29) is less shimmery, darker. Fyrinnae Banana Mochi (P, $6.80) is darker, brighter. Hello Kitty Mimmy (LE, ) is darker, brighter. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Make Up For Ever ME338 Acidic Green Artist Shadow ($19.00 for 0.08 oz.) is a bold, brightened chartreuse green with a metallic finish. It had excellent pigmentation with a soft, buttery consistency that was dense but blendable. This shade wore well for nine and a half hours before creasing slightly. NARS Tropical Princess #1 (LE, $24.00) is less shimmery, lighter, more muted. CoverGirl Lime Light (310) (LE, $4.99) is lighter, warmer. Make Up For Ever #171 (DC, $20.00) is less shimmery, lighter. Make Up For Ever #304 (DC, $20.00) is lighter, more muted. Colour Pop Sour (P, $5.00) is more shimmery, brighter. Sugarpill Mint Soda (P, $13.00) is brighter. Colour Pop Mermaid Kiss (P, $5.00) is more shimmery. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Make Up For Ever S312 Mint Green Artist Shadow ($19.00 for 0.08 oz.) is a muted, medium green with cool undertones and a semi-matte finish. It had mostly opaque color payoff with a soft, lightly creamy consistency that adhered well to the skin and showed signs of fading after eight and a half hours of wear. NARS Mad Mad World #2 (P, $24.00) is darker. MAC Kelly (P, $16.00) is less shimmery, warmer. Makeup Geek Shore Thing (P, $5.99) is darker. YSL Misty Green (09) (P, $30.00) is less shimmery, lighter. Colour Pop Chipper (P, $5.00) is less shimmery, darker. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Make Up For Ever S226 Abyssal Blue Artist Shadow ($19.00 for 0.08 oz.) is a muted, murky dark blue with subtle, cooler undertones and a satin finish. The texture was firmer and resulted in less intense color payoff than most of the Artist Shadow range, which also made it harder to blend on the skin. It lasted for nine hours before fading. Make Up For Ever S228 Petrol Blue (P, $21.00) is lighter. Dior Jardin #5 (P, ) is more shimmery, darker. MAC Prussian (P, $16.00) is less shimmery, darker. Tom Ford Beauty Cobalt Rush #4 (P, ) is darker. Giorgio Armani Ecailles Black Pearl #1 (LE, ) is more shimmery, lighter. bareMinerals Private Isle (LE, ) is lighter, brighter. MAC Indigogo (LE, $16.00) is cooler. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

The Glossover

P
product

I902 Quartz

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
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product

I904 Cotton Candy

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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P
product

I916 Frosted Mauve

B

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Thursday, June 4th, 2015

Zoeva Cocoa Blend Eyeshadow Palette
Zoeva Cocoa Blend Eyeshadow Palette

Zoeva Cocoa Blend Eyeshadow Palette ($21.50 / €17.50 for 0.50 oz.) features ten eyeshadows in various warm-toned hues ranging from beige to plum to copper. Zoeva is a German brand, though they ship worldwide (but U.S. readers, there’s a $16 flat rate shipping fee) — the brand caught my eye with those rose gold brush sets they have, and a friend shared swatches of another one of their palettes (not this one) that made me particularly curious to try the brand when they sent their newest palette for possible review. The palette has a good mix of finishes, so you can play with shimmers or add depth with more matte shades. Most of the eyeshadows had good color payoff and were blendable on bare skin with good longevity (seven to nine hours). There were a few of shades that could have been better in texture (one was too soft and a little crumbly, two were firmer). The palette’s biggest downfall is that it is dupable, which is also an upside if you’ve been looking for dupes of higher-end warm-toned eyeshadows.

If you’ve tried Zoeva before, do let me know what you think I should try and add to my ever-growing order! I definitely want to try out some of their other palettes after trying this one.

Bitter Start is a light beige with subtle, warm undertones and a semi-matte finish. It had semi-opaque coverage with a soft, silky texture that was blendable on the skin without looking chalky. It lasted for seven and a half hours on me. By no means unique, this is a fairly typical beige, so there are plenty of dupes for this one! MAC Vanilla (P, $16.00) is brighter. MAC Vanilla (P, $16.00) is brighter. L’Oreal Endless Pearl (P, $7.99) is darker. Urban Decay Anonymous (LE, $18.00) is brighter. Laura Mercier Buttercream (P, $23.00) is brighter. Laura Mercier Buttercream (P, $23.00) is brighter. theBalm #24 (P, $6.50) is darker. Kat Von D Lifelike (P, ) is brighter. Too Faced Rockabilly (P, $16.00) is brighter. Too Faced Meow (LE, $16.00) is lighter. Too Faced Rockabilly (P, $16.00) is brighter. Urban Decay Righteous (LE, $18.00) is warmer. LORAC Nude #1 (LE, ) is warmer. MAC Light Study (LE, $16.00) is darker. Makeup Geek Baby Face (P, $5.99) is warmer. Note: First 15 dupes listed, view all dupes: See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Sweeter End is a heavily gold-shimmered peach with a hint of pink. The texture was so soft that it was powdery, almost crumbly, so I would recommend applying it in sheerer layers or with a flatter, firm synthetic brush, which will give you more control. It’s quite pigmented, and in practice, after tapping off the excess, it was fairly easy to work with. The color started to fade after eight hours of wear. MAC Naked Lunch (P, $16.00) is less shimmery, lighter, brighter. Too Faced Cheers! (LE, $16.00) is less shimmery. MAC Jest (P, $16.00) is less shimmery, brighter. Tom Ford Beauty Orchid Haze #1 (P, ) is lighter, cooler. bareMinerals Future (P, ) is lighter, brighter. Kat Von D Killing Jar (P, ) is warmer. Make Up For Ever I520 Pinky Sand (P, $21.00) is lighter. Make Up For Ever I520 Pinky Sand (P, $21.00) is lighter. Urban Decay Last Sin (LE, $18.00) is less shimmery. Hello Kitty Apple Pie (LE, ) is lighter. NARS Valhalla (P, $24.00) is lighter. Lancome My French #5 (LE, ) is less shimmery. Cle de Peau Baby Universe #2 (P, ) is less shimmery, lighter. Makeup Geek Starry Eyed (P, $9.99) is warmer. Makeup Geek Starry Eyed (P, $9.99) is warmer. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Warm Notes is a rich, brightened cranberry red with warm, copper brown undertones and a metallic finish. It was intensely pigmented with a really dense, almost thick-feeling, consistency that adhered well to the skin (lasted for nine hours!). Use less than you’d think, as over-application can cause it to thicken a little on the lid. MAC Cranberry (P, $16.00) is less shimmery, darker. Inglot #452 (P, $6.00) is less shimmery, darker. NARS Desdemona (P, $29.00) is less shimmery, more muted, cooler. Make Up For Ever D826 Fig (P, $21.00) is darker, cooler. Urban Decay Alchemy (LE, $18.00) is brighter, cooler. Anastasia Sangria (P, $12.00) is less shimmery. MAC Plummed (LE, $16.00) is less shimmery, darker. Makeup Geek Showtime (P, $9.99) is darker. Tom Ford Beauty Pink Glow #3 (LE, ) is more muted. Buxom Wild Nights (P, $12.00) is cooler. Anastasia Pink Sapphire (LE, $12.00) is darker, more muted, cooler. Urban Decay Last Call (P, $18.00) is less shimmery, darker, cooler. MAC Heritage Rouge (P, $21.00) is darker, cooler. Makeup Geek Enchanted (P, $6.99) is less shimmery. Sleek MakeUP A Vow in Venice (LE, $9.99) is less shimmery, cooler. First 15 dupes listed, view all dupes: See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Subtle Blend is a medium-dark, golden bronze brown with warm, yellow undertones and a pearly sheen. It was intensely pigmented with a soft, smooth, buttery consistency that was so easy to apply and blend out on the skin. This shade wore well for eight and a half hours before creasing slightly. MAC A Harvest of Greens #2 (P, $21.00) is less shimmery, more muted, less pigmented. LORAC Nude #6 (LE, ) is less shimmery. Make Up For Ever ME644 Iced Brown (P, $21.00) is less shimmery. Make Up For Ever D640 Golden Snake (P, $21.00) is less shimmery, darker, cooler. Make Up For Ever ME658 Golden Brown (P, $21.00) is darker. Tarte Keepsake Frame (LE, ) is less shimmery, warmer. Makeup Geek Poker Face (P, $6.99) is brighter. Anastasia Topaz (P, $12.00) is lighter. LORAC Smokey Topaz (LE, ) is lighter, more muted, cooler. Cle de Peau Stellar Gaze #2 (P, ) is less shimmery, darker, more muted. Too Faced Biscotti (LE, $16.00) is darker. Makeup Geek Pretentious (P, $5.99) is less shimmery, darker. Burberry Gold #2 (LE, ) is less shimmery. Colour Pop Eve (LE, $5.00) is cooler. Too Faced Frosting (P, $16.00) is warmer. First 15 dupes listed, view all dupes: See comparison swatches/ compare dupes side-by-side.

Beans are White is a blackened brown with neutral-to-cool undertones and a mostly matte finish. This was the biggest miss in the palette, as it had a much firmer press and was harder to get color payoff out of it. I also found it harder to blend on bare skin, but if you use primer, it will be less noticeable. It lasted for eight hours before fading. Inglot #329 (P, $6.00) is lighter, warmer. MAC Dance in the Dark (LE, $16.00) is darker. MAC Midnight Flurry (LE, $16.00) is darker. NARS Coconut Grove (P, $24.00) is warmer. theBalm Matt Ramirez (LE, $16.00) is warmer. bareMinerals Boardroom (LE, ) is warmer. Tom Ford Beauty She Wolf #1 (LE, ) is warmer. Charlotte Tilbury The Rock Chick #4 (P, ) is lighter. Laura Mercier Espresso (LE, $23.00) is brighter, warmer. LORAC Espresso (Mega Pro) (LE, ) is more muted. Anastasia Deep Brown (P, $12.00) is darker. Tarte Wind Down Brown (LE, ) is brighter. Tarte Dim the Lights (LE, ) is cooler. Tarte Ice Cream Cone (LE, ) is warmer. Too Faced Sexpresso (P, $16.00) is warmer. First 15 dupes listed, view all dupes: See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Pure Ganache is a light-medium, golden copper with warm, orange undertones and a metallic sheen. It had fantastic color payoff with a really smooth, soft-to-the-touch feel that translated to easy-to-apply, blendable color on the skin. This shade stayed on well for eight and a half hours. Sleek MakeUP Sunset #10 (P, $9.99) is lighter. MAC Exquisite Ego #2 (LE, $21.00) is more shimmery, lighter. theBalm #21 (P, $6.50) is less shimmery, lighter. Too Faced Jingle All the Way Eyeshadow #7 (LE, $16.00) is more shimmery, lighter. Marc Jacobs Beauty The Siren #3 (LE, ) is warmer. Marc Jacobs Beauty The Lover #5 (LE, ) is warmer. Hourglass Graphite #2 (P, ) is lighter, brighter. Sephora + Pantone Universe Butterum (LE, ) is lighter, brighter, warmer. Sephora + Pantone Universe Toasted Nut (LE, ) is lighter, brighter, warmer. Anastasia Glisten (P, $12.00) is warmer. Ardency Inn Copper (P, $21.00) is darker. LORAC Nude #2 (LE, ) is lighter, brighter. Make Up For Ever ME728 Copper Red (P, $21.00) is brighter. Too Faced Bon Bon #2 (P, $16.00) is lighter. Too Faced Caramel (P, $16.00) is lighter, brighter. First 15 dupes listed, view all dupes: See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Substitute for Love is a medium-dark, orange-brown with a mostly matte finish and a dusting of what appears to be gold shimmer that really seems to be invisible whether swatched on the arm or applied to the eye. The texture was soft, silky, and blendable without being powdery on the skin. It wore well for eight hours on me. bareMinerals Fire (P, ) is more shimmery. MAC Saddle (P, $16.00) is darker, warmer. Inglot #122R Middle (P, $6.00) is brighter. Wet ‘n’ Wild To Muse and Carouse #2 (LE, $2.29) is darker. Makeup Geek Creme Brulee (P, $5.99) is lighter, more muted. Makeup Geek Latte (P, $5.99) is more muted. Make Up For Ever M664 Fawn (P, $21.00) is lighter. Make Up For Ever M650 Cookie (P, $21.00) is lighter. Anastasia Bengal (P, $12.00) is lighter. Anastasia Caramel (P, $12.00) is lighter. Too Faced Peanut Butter (P, $16.00) is lighter. Urban Decay Riff (P, $18.00) is lighter. Sephora + Pantone Universe Chutney (LE, ) is brighter. Too Faced Honey Butter (P, $16.00) is lighter, brighter. Too Faced Chocolate Cookie (P, $16.00) is darker, cooler. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Freshly Toasted is a muted, medium-dark reddish brown with warm, orange-red undertones and a matte finish. It had fairly good pigmentation with a soft, silky texture that was a smidgen on the powdery side, but it was very blendable on the skin and still adhered well to bare lids evenly. It started to fade after eight hours of wear. MAC Brown Script (P, $16.00) is darker, warmer. MAC Soft Brown (P, $16.00) is lighter, warmer. Sleek MakeUP Propose in Prague (LE, $9.99) is lighter. Laura Mercier Truffle (P, $23.00) is darker, more muted. Too Faced Semi-Sweet (P, $16.00) is darker, more muted. Makeup Geek Cocoa Bear (P, $5.99) is warmer. Make Up For Ever M600 Pink Brown (P, $21.00) is more muted. Make Up For Ever M656 Chestnut (P, $21.00) is warmer. Gucci Beauty Autumn Fire #4 (P, ) is darker. Sephora + Pantone Universe Hot Chocolate (LE, ) is lighter, brighter. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Infusion is a blackened brown with subtle, warm undertones and a golden satin finish. There were little bits of gold shimmer that were visible on the lid (they weren’t quite large enough to be sparkles, so I think that’s why they combined better). The texture was a little firm in the pan, but it wasn’t too difficult to blend on the lid. MAC Rising Passions (LE, $16.00) is more shimmery, lighter. MAC Night Whisper (LE, $16.00) is less shimmery. MAC Amberluxe #5 (P, ) is more shimmery, lighter. MAC Pepper, Please (P, $16.00) is less shimmery. Anastasia Black Diamond (P, $12.00) is darker. MAC Well Put Together (LE, $16.00) is warmer. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Delicate Acidity is a medium-dark, taupe brown with warm undertones and an almost plum-like leaning. It had a more pearly sheen with good color payoff that applied evenly and smoothly to the skin. It lasted for eight and a half hours before fading. Dior House of Pinks #4 (LE, ) is lighter. Tarte Steel the Scene (LE, ) is lighter. Makeup Geek Prom Night (P, $5.99) is cooler. Anastasia Custom (P, $12.00) is warmer. Make Up For Ever I544 Pink Granite (P, $21.00) is lighter, more muted. Illamasqua Mystify (P, ) is less shimmery, darker. Illamasqua Mystify (P, ) is less shimmery, darker. MAC Fall in Lust (LE, $16.00) is less shimmery. Bobbi Brown Smokey Grey (LE, $21.00) is darker, cooler. Sleek MakeUP Paradise on Earth (P, $9.99) is warmer. Urban Decay Mugshot (P, $18.00) is darker, warmer. MAC Phresh Out #4 (LE, ) is more shimmery, lighter, cooler. Urban Decay Bust (P, $18.00) is less shimmery. Urban Decay Midnight Rodeo (P, $18.00) is darker. Giorgio Armani Terra Sienna #2 (P, ) is lighter. First 15 dupes listed, view all dupes: See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

The Glossover

P
palette

Cocoa Blend

B+

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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P
product

Bitter Start

B+

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
P
product

Sweeter End

B

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Thursday, June 4th, 2015

Make Up For Ever D306 Bottle Green Artist Shadow
Make Up For Ever D306 Bottle Green Artist Shadow

Make Up For Ever I412 Wheat Artist Shadow ($19.00 for 0.08 oz.) is a light-medium, buttery yellow with a frosted sheen. It had excellent pigmentation with a really soft, blendable texture that sat well on the skin and lasted for eight and a half hours. Estee Lauder Bronze Dunes #1 (LE, $21.00) is darker, more muted. MAC Lemon Tart (P, $16.00) is darker. Makeup Geek Yellow Brick Road (P, $5.99) is less shimmery, darker, brighter. theBalm #12 (P, $6.50) is less shimmery, darker. theBalm #29 (P, $6.50) is darker, more muted. Hello Kitty Mimmy (LE, ) is darker. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Make Up For Ever I808 English Pink Artist Shadow ($19.00 for 0.08 oz.) is muted, medium rosy pink with warm undertones and a satin finish. It had nice color payoff with a smooth, blendable consistency that was easy to use. It lasted for eight and a half hours before fading. MAC Rose (P, $16.00) is darker. MAC Da Bling (P, $16.00) is more shimmery, lighter. Too Faced Paper Roses (LE, $16.00) is more shimmery, lighter. Chanel Tisse Cambon #3 (P, ) is more shimmery, lighter. Too Faced Paper Roses (LE, $16.00) is more shimmery, lighter. Make Up For Ever I804 Golden Pink (P, $21.00) is more shimmery. Make Up For Ever S812 Tea Pink (P, $21.00) is less shimmery, warmer. Make Up For Ever S812 Tea Pink (P, $21.00) is less shimmery, warmer. Urban Decay Alien (LE, $18.00) is more shimmery, lighter. Too Faced Bubblegum (LE, $16.00) is warmer. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Make Up For Ever S604 Teak Artist Shadow ($19.00 for 0.08 oz.) is muted, medium brown with warm, pink-orange undertones and a satin finish. It was incredibly pigmented with a buttery, dense, smooth texture that applied beautifully to the skin. On me, the color started to fade after nine hours of wear. Makeup Geek Country Girl (P, $5.99) is less shimmery. Makeup Geek Country Girl (P, $5.99) is less shimmery. theBalm #39 (P, $6.50) is darker, more muted. Sisley Paris Toffee (7) (P, $47.00) is more shimmery, darker. Colour Pop Bandit (P, $5.00) is darker. MAC Amorous Alloy (P, $20.00) is less shimmery. Surratt Beauty Cuivre (P, $20.00) is less shimmery, warmer. NARS St-Paul-de-Vence (Right) (LE, $24.00) is darker, cooler. Make Up For Ever S602 Cinnamon (P, $21.00) is lighter. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Make Up For Ever M600 Pink Brown Artist Shadow ($19.00 for 0.08 oz.) is muted, medium-dark rosy brown with soft, warm undertones and a matte finish. It had good color payoff with a really soft, silky texture that was a smidgen powdery. The product was easily blended on the skin and applied evenly. It wore well for eight hours on me. Sleek MakeUP Propose in Prague (LE, $9.99) is lighter. MAC Soft Brown (P, $16.00) is lighter. MAC Brown Script (P, $16.00) is darker, less pigmented, more muted, cooler, lighter. MAC Beautyburst (LE, $16.00) is darker, warmer. Guerlain Turandot #3 (LE, ) is darker, warmer. Make Up For Ever M656 Chestnut (P, $21.00) is warmer. Gucci Beauty Autumn Fire #4 (P, ) is darker. Gucci Beauty Autumn Fire #4 (P, ) is darker. Sephora + Pantone Universe Hot Chocolate (LE, ) is brighter, warmer. Too Faced Strapless (P, $16.00) is lighter. Too Faced Semi-Sweet (P, $16.00) is more muted. Makeup Geek Cocoa Bear (P, $5.99) is warmer. Laura Mercier Truffle (P, $23.00) is darker, warmer. Marc Jacobs Beauty The Dreamer #4 (P, ) is lighter. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Make Up For Ever D306 Bottle Green Artist Shadow ($19.00 for 0.08 oz.) is medium-dark, forest green with subtle, warm olive undertones and an emerald green sparkle over a metallic finish. It had good color payoff with a blendable consistency, but the sparkly bits make it not quite as smooth as other Artist shades. The color lasted for nine hours with minor fall out. NARS Night Porter (LE, $24.00) is less shimmery, darker. Urban Decay Kush (P, $18.00) is more shimmery, lighter, brighter. L’Oreal Golden Emerald (P, $7.99) is darker. Sugarpill Junebug (P, $13.00) is darker. Inglot #418 (P, $6.00) is darker. Make Up For Ever #310 (DC, $20.00) is less shimmery, darker. Too Faced Evergreen (LE, $16.00) is less shimmery. Sephora Collection Rolling in the Grass (10) (P, $13.00) is darker. Fyrinnae Are You My Mummy? (P, $6.80) is less shimmery, darker, cooler. Gucci Beauty Malachite (Left) (P, ) is less shimmery, warmer. Charlotte Tilbury The Rebel #2 (P, ) is less shimmery, lighter. Sleek MakeUP Fauna (P, $9.99) is less shimmery, darker, more muted. Anastasia Emerald (P, $12.00) is less shimmery, darker. Milani Bella Emerald (18) (P, $4.49) is less shimmery, darker. Sephora Collection Hidden Treasure (114) (LE, $13.00) is more muted, warmer. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Make Up For Ever D334 Apple Green Artist Shadow ($19.00 for 0.08 oz.) is a brightened, medium green with warm, yellow undertones that gives it a very summer, grass green vibe paired with a metallic sheen. It wasn’t as sparkly as most of the Diamond shades. It had fairly good pigmentation, but it could have been more intense (though it is buildable in two layers). The texture was very smooth, blendable, and dense. It wore well for eight and a half hours on me before creasing slightly. Fyrinnae Bitey Tyrannosaur (P, $8.25) is darker, warmer. Makeup Geek Appletini (P, $5.99) is lighter, cooler. Fyrinnae Dragon’s Wing (P, $6.80) is lighter. Illamasqua Possession (LE, ) is less shimmery. MAC Feeling Fresh (LE, $16.00) is less shimmery, darker. MAC Guacamole (LE, $16.00) is less shimmery, lighter, more muted. Urban Decay Kush (P, $18.00) is more shimmery, cooler. MAC Wondergrass (LE, $16.00) is less shimmery, darker. Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Foxfire (P, $14.00) is more shimmery, cooler. Sugarpill Tipsy (P, $13.00) is darker. MAC Apple Squishee (LE, $16.00) is cooler. Giorgio Armani #17 (P, $32.00) is lighter, brighter, more pigmented. Urban Decay Freak (P, ) is lighter, brighter. Sleek MakeUP Evergreen (P, $9.99) is more shimmery, lighter, more muted. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Make Up For Ever M510 Vanilla Artist Shadow ($19.00 for 0.08 oz.) is a light-medium, yellowed beige with a matte finish. It had semi-sheer pigmentation with a very powdery texture that bordered on chalky. Depending on your skin tone, it may be more or less apparent. It lasted for seven and a half hours on me before fading. Urban Decay Bleach (LE, $18.00) is lighter. Marc Jacobs Beauty The Dreamer #1 (P, ) is lighter. Kat Von D Entomology (P, ) is lighter. Divergent Altruistic Almond (LE, ) is warmer. LORAC Undressed (P, ) is lighter. Kat Von D Damned (LE, ) is lighter. Colour Pop One & Done (LE, $5.00) is darker, lighter. Tarte Free Spirit (LE, ) is darker, less pigmented, more muted. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

The Glossover

P
product

I412 Wheat

A

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
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P
product

I808 English Pink

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
P
product

S604 Teak

A+

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

9.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
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Wednesday, June 3rd, 2015

Urban Decay Naked Smoky Eyeshadow Palette
Urban Decay Naked Smoky Eyeshadow Palette

Urban Decay Naked Smoky Eyeshadow Palette ($54.00 for 0.60 oz.) is a set of cooler-toned shades ranging from beige to black with a definite slant towards grayish tones. The eyeshadows are arranged by finish from most shimmery to least shimmery. The formula feels different than previous Urban Decay releases; it feels noticeably drier and almost chalky to me, especially in the more satin/matte shades, and the press feels firmer. In a way, they remind me of the dryness I felt in the holiday palettes of last year, but the firmer press resulted in less excess powder kicked up all over the place when used and less fall out during application. They almost feel more like Too Faced or LORAC eyeshadows, though LORAC has a silkier feel overall. This texture made it particularly difficult to use them without primer, and I’ve been able to use the prior releases reasonably well (some better than others) without primer (and in general, I can do so with the majority of Urban Decay’s eyeshadows from the permanent line). For summer, the brand added several new brightly-colored eyeshadows that I was easily able to use without primer (see this post), but this was not workable on bare skin. The texture of these is nothing like the individual shades launched for summer and don’t really feel like any past iteration of their formula. Whether or not it is accurate, the texture and performance feels like a cheapening of the Urban Decay eyeshadow formula on the whole but at the very least, I’ve lost a lot of faith in their ability to put together a high-quality, high-value palette based on the recent palette releases.

One of the brand’s best matte eyeshadows (to me), Tyranny, was in the Urban Decay’s Pulp Fiction Palette, as it was smooth, velvety, and incredibly blendable with little work, while still retaining their color payoff over bare skin (no primer) — and the more recently added Beware and Riff were much easier to use. The mattes here tended to turn patchy when I applied to them in my crease, and they were harder to blend out as they applied unevenly and wouldn’t really go anywhere from there. The satins and mattes were prone to fading and fall out just sitting there; I put Dagger on the middle of my lid, went to apply color to the outer lid/crease, and it had gone from a deeper, bluish-gray to a faded, light-medium gray within twenty minutes. Really packing it on with a flat, synthetic brush (I used MAC’s 242) seemed to intensify it and keep it there a bit longer, but it just seems to settle into a more faded presence within a few minutes, and that’s the state it is in for the next several hours. The more shimmery shades were easier to use (shimmery finishes seem to have better or more binding agents in them that help them in the quest to apply to bare skin), but two of them have micro-glitter and the drier formula seemed to result in a greater amount of glitter fall out over time. I had the best luck applying everything with a flatter, firmer brush (I used the 242) and really pressing the eyeshadows onto the skin and gently lifting it away and doing blending towards the end with a very light hand. However, I think that using an eyeshadow primer is a must-have; it took 45 minutes per look to even get it to be that blended (and it’s not blended–both looks using this palette without primer are disappointing) and only 20 minutes over primer (and infinitely less frustrating).

Occasionally, I am asked why I don’t test eyeshadows with primer, and the reason is that many brands promise the moon and deliver a sliver of the moon instead. Take Urban Decay’s description of their eyeshadow formula as an example: “Every shade features our Pigment Infusion System™, the proprietary blend of ingredients that gives each shade its velvety texture, rich color, serious staying power and blendability.” All of those things are often the reason to use primer (make it easier to use an eyeshadow, improve color payoff and longevity), and you can easily take a pretty poor-performing eyeshadow, slap it over a white, tacky base and make it look beautiful–but an eyeshadow that can do it without primer doesn’t benefit as greatly from it (there is less room for improvement–if it is already totally opaque, it’s not going to get more opaque, you know?). My approach is to tell you how it works relative to the brand’s promises, knowing that you can always use primer, a white base, glitter adhesive, or even a colored base to improve the performance of a particular product or to really lock your makeup on for 16-hour days (which is why the scores are broken out so even at a glance, you can see where a product fell short and determine whether that’s an issue for you as well, because we each of our own styles, routines, and deal-breakers!).

It is packaged in a hard, plastic case that is slightly translucent and holds together with a magnetic closure. It’s sturdy, streamlined, and doesn’t feel like it is too bulky. The dual-ended brush is usable, though I think a shading brush would have been more useful (something to pack on color). I think the palette could use one more mid-tone transition shade to suit a greater spectrum of skin tones (perhaps ditch Slanted or Dagger, they are more similar than not, especially as they sheer out).

The palette releases on UrbanDecay.com on July 8th, with retailers like Sephora, ULTA, Beauty.com, and Macy’s to follow. ULTA has given July 12th for online, July 16th for in-stores, and the others have a “mid-July” date per Urban Decay. The palette is permanent.

High is described as a “champagne shimmer with micro-glitter.” It’s a light, peachy-beige with warm undertones and a frosted, metallic sheen paired with coppery micro-glitter. The texture is slightly dry but still yields good color payoff and adheres to the lid fairly well–you get a smoother, almost metallic finish when applied. Some of the glitter just gets trapped in the brush, but the glitter drops over time while worn. It lasted for eight hours. Urban Decay Last Sin (LE, $18.00) is less shimmery, darker, more muted. LORAC Champagne (P, ) is less shimmery, lighter, cooler. Too Faced Cheers! (LE, $16.00) is less shimmery. Tom Ford Beauty Orchid Haze #1 (P, ) is less shimmery, warmer. MAC Fabulous Three #2 (LE, ) is lighter, brighter. MAC Jest (P, $16.00) is less shimmery, lighter. MAC Summer Honey (LE, $21.00) is lighter, cooler. Urban Decay Sin (P, $18.00) is less shimmery, lighter. Urban Decay Snatch (P, $18.00) is less shimmery, cooler. bareMinerals Custom Made (LE, ) is less shimmery. MAC Love Connection #1 (P, $21.00) is cooler. MAC Sweet Heat (P, $20.00) is less shimmery, darker, cooler. Urban Decay Sellout (P, $18.00) is less shimmery, lighter. Milani Champagne Toast (P, $6.49) is less shimmery, lighter, brighter. Makeup Geek Starry Eyed (P, $9.99) is less shimmery, lighter, warmer. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Dirtysweet is described as a “medium bronze.” It’s a light-medium, golden brown with warm, yellow undertones and a metallic sheen. It had nice color payoff with a soft, smooth texture that felt a little dry and thinner compared to most of the brand’s more metallic eyeshadows. It wore well for eight hours before fading. LORAC Smokey Topaz (LE, ) is darker. Tarte No Champagne, No Gain (LE, ) is darker. MAC English Gilt (LE, $21.00) is more shimmery, brighter. Tarte Dare to Be Gold (LE, ) is less shimmery, darker. Too Faced Nutmeg (LE, $16.00) is lighter. Kat Von D Nephilim (LE, ) is darker. Hourglass Exposure #3 (P, ) is cooler. MAC Natural Vigor #2 (LE, $21.00) is lighter, cooler. Hourglass Exposure #3 (P, ) is cooler. Hourglass Obscura #3 (P, ) is brighter, warmer. Giorgio Armani Cold Copper (09) (P, $38.00) is darker, cooler. Dior Golden Flower #4 (LE, ) is darker. MAC Tempting (P, $16.00) is less shimmery, darker, warmer. Urban Decay Chase (P, $18.00) is darker, warmer. Makeup Geek Bleached Blonde (P, $5.99) is less shimmery, darker, warmer. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Radar is described as a “metallic taupe with iridescent micro-glitter.” It’s a medium-dark brown with warm, yellowed undertones and lighter gold sparkle over a frosted sheen. It was a lot firmer and less glittery compared to the version that was in the Vice 2 palette, which is good, but the color also appears less intense and lighter. Urban Decay Deeper (LE, $18.00) is more shimmery, brighter. Urban Decay Snakebite (LE, $18.00) is warmer. NARS Ursa Major (LE, $29.00) is less shimmery, cooler. Hourglass Color Field #3 (P, ) is less shimmery. Hourglass Obscura #5 (P, ) is warmer. Guerlain Les Precieux #4 (LE, ) is cooler. MAC Permanent Press #2 (LE, ) is more shimmery, lighter. Colour Pop Nillionaire (P, $5.00) is more shimmery, lighter. Colour Pop Nillionaire (P, $5.00) is more shimmery, lighter. Urban Decay Reign (LE, $18.00) is less shimmery, darker. Burberry Gold #1 (LE, ) is less shimmery, darker. Colour Pop Mooning (P, $5.00) is less shimmery, darker. Burberry Gold #1 (LE, ) is less shimmery, darker. Urban Decay Stun (LE, $18.00) is darker. Make Up For Ever D640 Golden Snake (P, $21.00) is darker, warmer.See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Armor is described as a “metallic silver-taupe with tonal sparkle.” It’s a dark, taupe gray with a frosted, lightly sparkly finish. It had nice color payoff and was the densest shade with respect to texture in the palette, though it felt more prone to crumbling compared to the version that was in the Vice palette. It wore well for eight and a half hours with a tiny amount of fall out, but it was easy to use. Make Up For Ever #2 (P, $23.00) is less shimmery. Chanel Illusoire (P, $36.00) is darker. MAC Dangerous Cuvee (P, $18.50) is lighter, brighter, cooler. Chanel Illusoire (P, $36.00) is darker. Chanel Illusoire (P, $36.00) is darker. MAC Electroplate (LE, $21.00) is lighter. Giorgio Armani #4 (P, $33.00) is darker, warmer. Giorgio Armani Organica (Left) (LE, ) is less shimmery, darker. Giorgio Armani Organica (Left) (LE, ) is less shimmery, darker. Kat Von D Darkstar (LE, ) is less shimmery, darker. Surratt Beauty Patine (P, $20.00) is more shimmery, cooler. MAC Keep Your Cool (DC, $21.00) is more shimmery, glossier. MAC Stolen Moment (P, $20.00) is more shimmery, darker, brighter, more pigmented, glossier, cooler. MAC Trusted Instinct #5 (LE, ) is more shimmery, lighter. MAC Stormy Sunset (LE, $16.00) is darker. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Slanted is described as a “light metallic gray.” It’s a muted, medium gray with cool, bluish undertones and a pearly sheen. It had so-so color payoff with a powdery, almost chalky texture that was prone to fading on the lid and going on unevenly. It started to fade after six and a half hours. Estee Lauder Modern Mercury #2 (LE, $21.00) is lighter. Urban Decay Ace (LE, $18.00) is darker. CoverGirl Charcoal (335) (P, $4.99) is lighter. MAC Smokeluxe #4 (P, ) is more shimmery, darker. MAC Thunder and Rain #1 (LE, $21.00) is darker, warmer. MAC Showgirl (LE, $16.00) is more shimmery, lighter. Too Faced Chimney (LE, $16.00) is darker, warmer. MAC Graphic Style (LE, $16.00) is more shimmery. Kat Von D Piaf (LE, ) is lighter, brighter. Tarina Tarantino Silver Shoes (LE, ) is more shimmery, darker. Tarina Tarantino Diamond Dusk #3 (LE, ) is more shimmery, lighter, brighter. Milani Bella Gray (10) (P, $4.49) is lighter. Kat Von D Dios (LE, ) is less shimmery, lighter. Marc Jacobs Beauty The Enigma #2 (P, ) is lighter. Marc Jacobs Beauty The Enigma #2 (P, ) is lighter. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Dagger is described as a “medium charcoal with micro-shimmer.” It’s a dark gray with cool, blue undertones and a satin finish. It had a soft, blendable texture, but it was thin, dry, and powdery–this is a shade that I would pat on, then work on another color, and it would look like I had hardly applied it. The color was significantly faded after five and a half hours of wear. Bobbi Brown Gunmetal (LE, $21.00) is darker, brighter. theBalm Matt McDonald (LE, $16.00) is more shimmery. Urban Decay Ace (LE, $18.00) is darker. Disney by Sephora Flotsam (LE, ) is lighter. MAC Thunder and Rain #1 (LE, $21.00) is more shimmery, lighter. Chanel Fascination #3 (P, ) is more shimmery. theBalm #26 (P, $6.50) is darker. Givenchy Gris Organza (7) (P, $23.00) is less shimmery. MAC Plumluxe #5 (P, ) is more shimmery, darker. Hourglass Graphite #4 (P, ) is more shimmery, darker. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Black Market is described as a “jet black satin.” It’s a deepened black with cool undertones and a satiny sheen. It had decent pigmentation and wasn’t too powdery, but it was difficult to blend on bare skin as the texture was thinner and drier. It lasted for six and a half hours before fading. This shade was originally seen in the Vice palette. Estee Lauder Violet Underground #4 (LE, $21.00) is darker. MAC Smokeluxe #5 (P, ) is darker. MAC A Waft of Grey #4 (P, $21.00) is more shimmery. MAC Fashion Legend (LE, $16.00) is less shimmery. LORAC Caviar (LE, ) is warmer. Giorgio Armani Obsidian (01) (P, $38.00) is darker. Le Metier de Beaute Genre (LE, $30.00) is warmer. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Smolder is described as a “deep plum-taupe.” It’s a blackened plummy purple with subtle, warmer undertones in its base (but the sheen looks almost cool-toned). It had good pigmentation, while the texture was soft but a little dry, which made blending more challenging than I would have expected from this shade. It lasted for seven and a half hours before fading. MAC Pinkluxe #5 (P, ) is brighter. LORAC Deep Purple (P, ) is more shimmery. Too Faced Jungle Love (LE, $16.00) is less shimmery, cooler. Make Up For Ever ME930 Black Purple (P, $21.00) is brighter. Marc Jacobs Beauty The Night Owl #7 (P, ) is less shimmery, lighter. Hourglass Exposure #4 (P, ) is more shimmery, brighter. Marc Jacobs Beauty The Night Owl #7 (P, ) is less shimmery, lighter. Hourglass Exposure #4 (P, ) is more shimmery, brighter. Hourglass Exposure #4 (P, ) is more shimmery, brighter. Hourglass Exposure #4 (P, ) is more shimmery, brighter. MAC Black Slip (LE, $16.00) is lighter, warmer. L’Oreal Smoldering Plum (P, $7.99) is less shimmery, brighter. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Password is described as a “cool taupe matte.” It’s a muted, medium-dark taupe with cool undertones and a matte finish. The texture was very soft, smooth, but on the drier side, and so this shade was prone to sheering out as it was quite powdery. I found it to be rather blendable, but it was just so sheer on bare skin. It lasted for six and a half hours on me. LORAC Stone (LE, ) is lighter. Make Up For Ever M106 Slate (P, $21.00) is darker. LORAC Cool Gray (P, ) is warmer. Guerlain Two VIP #2 (LE, ) is more shimmery, lighter. MAC Smoked Cocoa #2 (LE, $16.00) is lighter. Buxom Jetsetter (P, $12.00) is warmer. Sephora + Pantone Universe Deep Taupe (LE, ) is lighter. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Whiskey is described as a “rich brown matte.” It’s a muted, dark brown with subtle, warm reddish undertones and a matte finish. The texture was dry and thin, and the firmness is really felt with these matte shades in the palette. It had semi-opaque color payoff and felt dusty in use, but it eventually “melted” on the skin and didn’t looked caked on after a few minutes. It was fairly blendable, and it wore for six and a half hours before fading. MAC Swiss Chocolate (P, $16.00) is darker, warmer. Chanel Charming #4 (LE, ) is darker. MAC Ground Brown (P, $16.00) is darker. Inglot #360 (P, $6.00) is lighter, warmer. Inglot #327 (P, $6.00) is darker, warmer. Tarte Powerful (LE, ) is darker. Marc Jacobs Beauty The Dreamer #4 (P, ) is darker. Kat Von D Solas (P, ) is warmer. Kat Von D Sytry (P, ) is darker. MAC Choco Cake (LE, $16.00) is . Tarte Picnic Basket (LE, ) is warmer. Kat Von D Leather (LE, ) is brighter, warmer. Tarte Multi-Tasker (LE, ) is darker. Kat Von D Shadow Box (P, ) is darker. Make Up For Ever M630 Sweet Chestnut (P, $21.00) is lighter. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Combust is described as a “soft pink-taupe.” It’s a dirty, muted, light beige with a subtle, pink-ish tone that gives it a more cool-toned appearance. It had good pigmentation and was blendable on bare skin. The texture was softer and smoother with this shade, but it was prone to kicking up a lot of excess powder when you put the brush to it. On me, it lasted for seven hours before fading. Bobbi Brown Truffle (LE, $22.00) is darker, warmer. Anastasia Nude (P, $12.00) is brighter. Kat Von D South (LE, ) is lighter. MAC Cozy Grey (P, $16.00) is lighter. Urban Decay Habit (LE, $18.00) is lighter, warmer. Inglot #390 (P, $6.00) is lighter. MAC Bisque (DC, $16.00) is lighter, brighter. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

Thirteen is described as a “light beige satin.” It’s a brightened, subdued white-beige with a mostly matte finish. There is a little sheen that becomes apparent when blended out on the skin, but it is slight. The texture was soft, finely-milled, and a little powdery but very blendable on the skin. It started to fade after seven and a half hours of wear. This is a shade that I’d make sure to tap your brush off to minimize fall out during application. Kat Von D Lifelike (P, ) is darker, warmer. Bobbi Brown Ivory (P, $22.00) is warmer. MAC Pick Me Up (P, $16.00) is warmer. Too Faced Jingle All the Way Eyeshadow #10 (LE, $16.00) is warmer. Urban Decay Kinky (LE, $18.00) is darker. MAC Blanc Type (P, $16.00) is darker, warmer. bareMinerals Chance (P, ) is warmer. Inglot #353 (P, $6.00) is warmer. Kat Von D Liberatus (P, ) is lighter. Makeup Geek White Lies (P, $5.99) is cooler. Too Faced Meringue (LE, $16.00) is darker, warmer. Too Faced Meow (LE, $16.00) is darker, warmer. Too Faced Rockabilly (P, $16.00) is darker, warmer. See comparison swatches / compare dupes side-by-side.

The Glossover

P
palette

Naked Smoky

B-

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

7.5/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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P
product

High

B

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4.5/5

Results
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Dupes
P
product

Dirtysweet

A-

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Dupes
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