Saturday, May 12th, 2012

Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Eye Pencil
Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Eye Pencil

Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Eye Pencils ($24.00 for 0.04 oz.) come in six shades: Black Navy (deep midnight), Black Plum (rich eggplant), Hunter (deep emerald green), Jet (blackest black), Mahogany (rich brown), and Smoke (charcoal grey). The formula is supposed to wear for twelve hours, glide on smoothly, be waterproof, and not smudge or smear. Each pencil comes with a sharpener.

  • Black Navy is a dark navy blue with a hint of purple. It seems darker than other navy blue eyeliners. The color payoff in a single pass was pretty good.
  • Black Plum is a medium-dark eggplant purple with subtle red-burgundy undertones and a bit of a metallic finish. It had decent color payoff in a single stroke. It’s kind of like Urban Decay 1999 and Rockstar merged together. Chanel Cassis is a matte version. Urban Decay Crash comes close as well.
  • Hunter is a dark swampy green. It’s not emerald green like Bobbi Brown describes–there’s a really murky quality to it, probably from the olive undertones. I couldn’t think of a dupe for this one. This shade had really good color payoff in one pass.
  • Jet is a deep black. It applies quite intensely in just one stroke. There are numerous black eyeliners like this shade on the market.
  • Mahogany is a deep chocolate brown with subtle warm, red undertones. The tip of the pencil broke off while I attempted (more on this later) to do a single pass of it in the swatch, but it does apply fairly well in a single go. CoverGirl Brown is just slightly lighter.
  • Smoke is a deep, dark gray with hints of purple. It has decent color payoff in a single stroke. CoverGirl Silver Spark is much lighter but the closest shade I could think of.

There was a consistent product failing that occured–all but two pencil tips broke off when I swatched them against my skin. Just snapped right off, and let me tell you, after the first one broke, I applied very, very gentle pressure with the next one, but it still happened. One of the two that hadn’t broke when I applied it to the lash line. It also seems like the outer edge has a slightly waxy film around it, which keeps the color from applying as intensely as it does once you’ve worn away the exterior (and it’s just a very thin layer on the exterior of the pencil). Once I sharpened the ones that had broke, they applied more intensely than before. It’s not a complete deal-breaker, but it’s very annoying and shouldn’t happen at this price point, and it’s not as if there’s tons of product to waste with pencil eyeliners!

The formula is good–it could stand to be a little creamier–it has a very dense, not quite hard but not silky soft, feeling against the lash line. It doesn’t pull or tug, and it leaves behind rich color without having to go back and forth over and over again. Bobbi Brown says it has “special polymers that melt at skin temperature,” which appears to be true, though I don’t know if this is really and truly special. It feels like many other pencils that naturally get creamier and glide-on better when they’re warmed up.  Since most of these broke soon after I attempted to use them, I did have plenty of chances to use the included sharpener, which worked well and had minimal waste.

If you want to smudge these, you can definitely can, but they do set after ten to fifteen seconds and stay put after that. I clocked in wear around ten hours that was lovely, and after twelve hours, it was still pretty good with some light fading but no smudging or migration. Though I didn’t see anything that said these were safe for the waterline, I wore the shimmer-free shades on the waterline as well and had surprisingly good results of eight hours. I tested Black Navy, Black Plum, Hunter, Jet, and Mahogany (the only shade I didn’t test specifically was Smoke), and they all wore similarly (give or take a few minutes!).

The Glossover

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Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Eye Pencils Review, Photos, Swatches

A-
Having five of the six pencils have their tips break off on the first or second use was really frustrating! The formula wears really well and long, which is the most important factor when it comes to a long-wearing eyeliner! It could have a slightly creamier consistency, though.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4.5/5

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Friday, May 11th, 2012

OCC Acacia Loose Colour Concentrate
OCC Acacia Loose Colour Concentrate

OCC Acacia Loose Colour Concentrate

OCC Acacia Loose Colour Concentrate ($12.00 for 0.088 oz. / 2.5 grams) is described as a “yellow with blue-green duochrome.” It’s a light-medium gold with yellow-brown undertones and a subtle green duochrome. The duochrome is hard to catch except at just the right angles. It can be really pretty when you do catch it, though. Bare Escentuals Remix is a bit darker, more golden, and has no duochrome. MAC Treasure Hunt is paler, less yellow. Bare Escentuals Standing O is paler. Urban Decay Eldorado is darker and has no duochrome. MAC Gorgeous Gold is the closest shade I could think of, as it also has a green-ish duochrome, though it appears a little more golden with less brown in it.

Acacia has a soft, finely-milled texture that applies smoothly and evenly both wet and dry. I get about the same color payoff either way (which is good), but the metallic finish comes forth when it is applied dampened. When I wore this on the lid, it lasted a full eight hours without creasing or fading.  I don’t normally like using loose eyeshadows, but I’ve been loving the feel and application of OCC’s spring/summer shades.  I only wish the duochrome in this shade was more pronounced; I thought it might come out by wearing a green eyeshadow next to it (Foxfire), but it didn’t seem to help.

The Glossover

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Acacia

A
I don't normally like using loose eyeshadows, but I've been loving the feel and application of OCC's spring/summer shades. I only wish the duochrome in this shade was more pronounced; I thought it might come out by wearing a green eyeshadow next to it (Foxfire), but it didn't seem to help.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4.5/5

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Thursday, May 10th, 2012

Illamasqua Burst Eyeshadow
Illamasqua Burst Eyeshadow

Illamasqua Burst Eyeshadow

Illamasqua Burst Eyeshadow ($20.00 for 0.07 oz.) is described as a “blue-green.” It’s a medium-dark that’s just barely been kissed by tones of teal. It’s more blue than it is teal or green, but it’s not just blue. Tarina Tarantino Ozma is a bit similar in color, but it has a frosted finish, so it ends up looking different. MAC Cool Heat is a little more teal and has a subtle sparkle. Urban Decay Haight is bluer. Inglot #338 is a bit darker.

Another newly released shade, Burst has insane, intense color payoff!  I’m loving how top-notch these new shades from Illamasqua have been.  Not a dud yet!  The texture is soft and smooth, but it never becomes powdery against the skin or during application.  It adhered well to the naked lid; it wore about eight hours without fading or creasing.  What I liked about it was that it was easily blendable over bare lids or over an eyeshadow primer.  I think this is an interesting shade of blue/teal, because it’s not really either of those, but it’s not quite a mix either!  It’s more muted than full-on blue eyeshadow, but there’s not enough green in it to constitute a true teal either.

The Glossover

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Burst

A
I think this is an interesting shade of blue/teal, because it's not really either of those, but it's not quite a mix either! It's more muted than full-on blue eyeshadow, but there's not enough green in it to constitute a true teal either.

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4.5/5

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Wednesday, May 9th, 2012

OCC Datura Loose Colour Concentrate
OCC Datura Loose Colour Concentrate

OCC Datura Loose Colour Concentrate

OCC Datura Loose Colour Concentrate ($12.00 for 0.088 oz. / 2.5 grams) is described as an “opalescent pink/lavender.” It looks pink in the jar, but it is much more lavender once applied; it really has an opalescent finish so it flashes both pink and lavender. When it’s applied damp, the lavender color gets pulled to the forefront, while when it’s applied dry, it looks a bit pinker, softer, and less metallic. It’s more opaque when applied damp as well. MAC Dynamic Duo 2 has a more silvered shade. MAC Light Violet is pinker. theBalm Curtain Call is pinker and darker.

The formula is described as “lightweight, ultra-refined, [and] densely pigmented” that can be used on the eyes, face, and body.  Datura has an incredibly fine-milled consistency that’s softer than silk.  It applies smoothly for the most part, but it seems to have a definite sweet spot if you want to use it wet–it can’t take too much dampness or else it seems to clump up.  I tried using it wet on the inner corner, and it did this to me a bit.  If you want a sheerer look, I would recommend using it dry, rather than wet, and if you wanted to layer this over another shade to add iridescence, that’s also another good way to use this.

Of the five shades that launched with their spring/summer collection, Datura was the only one that was sheer when applied dry.  I had no problem with the wear, though, and there was no residual fallout during the day.  It wore about seven hours over bare skin without fading or migrating; after eight and a half hours, it was very slightly faded.

The Glossover

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Datura

B
If you want a sheerer look, I would recommend using it dry, rather than wet, and if you wanted to layer this over another shade to add iridescence, that's also another good way to use this.

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4/5

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Tuesday, May 8th, 2012

Milani Pitch Black Powder Eyeshadow
Milani Pitch Black Powder Eyeshadow

Milani Pitch Black Powder Eyeshadow

Milani Pitch Black Powder Eyeshadow ($4.49 for 0.11 oz.) is an intense dark black with a matte finish–though there appears to be a very, very faint sheen, it doesn’t translate on the lid or from afar. It also seems to have very subtle blue undertones (rather than brown), but it’s hard to tell–it’s that close to neutral. Urban Decay Blackout is just slightly richer. Tarina Tarantino Lovely is a little softer. Guerlain Les Ombres de Nuit is similar. Inglot #391 is not quite as dark.

The formula is supposed to be “super pigmented, easily blendable, creaseproof, [and] silk-like.”  This is the second shade I’ve tried from the line-up, and I’m not disappointed.  I think the texture is a little drier than Shocking Pink, but it’s very intense and pigmented.  It’s soft, finely-milled, and doesn’t look chalky when applied.  It blends out fairly easily, though it could be just a little softer and denser.  The good news is that it’s not powdery, so you don’t end up with lots of excess product underneath your lid during application as you might with a more powdery formula.  This particular shade is closer in texture to MAC’s mattes, but it’s not quite as dry.  When I trialed Pitch Black on the bare lid, it wore for eight hours with some slight fading around the edges but no creasing.

It will be available exclusively at select CVS stores this May. I’ve linked to Milani’s website for the time being, as it’s a good starting point for tracking down where Milani is sold near you.  These are packaged in a clear-cover plastic compact and contain over double the amount of product as the average eyeshadow (0.11 oz. vs. 0.05 oz.).

The Glossover

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Pitch Black

A-
It's definitely one of the better budget-friendly blacks--I love that it doesn't have a super dry, chalky texture, and it actually goes on as intense as it looks in the pan.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4.5/5

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Monday, May 7th, 2012

Illamasqua Fledgling Eyeshadow
Illamasqua Fledgling Eyeshadow

Illamasqua Fledgling Eyeshadow

Illamasqua Fledgling Eyeshadow ($20.00 for 0.07 oz.) is described as a “matte kelly green.” It’s a brightened medium grassy green with very subtle yellow undertones and a matte finish. MAC Fresh Flare is darker, cooler-toned. MAC Wondergrass is similar but a touch lighter, yellower, and shimmery. Inglot #384 is darker. Inglot #331 is even darker. Make Up For Ever #91 is just a little lighter and yellower.

Just released, Fledgling is another stellar matte shade to work with.  It’s intensely pigmented with opaque, smooth color payoff with very little product required.  The texture is soft, finely-milled, but not powdery.  If you aren’t a fan of some of the denser, more “buttery” matte shades because of the excess powder they kick up, you may find Illamasqua’s formula a happy medium between drier and softer mattes.  Fledgling wears extremely well with or without a primer; it lasted for eight hours without fading or creasing.

The Glossover

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Fledgling

A
Illamasqua has a stellar matte formula on their hands. If you love pigmented matte eyeshadows that don't have a powdery finish, I think Illamasqua is a good match for you. Fledging has amazing pigmentation, and I love how subtle the yellow undertones are.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4.5/5

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