Thursday, June 30th, 2011

Urban Decay Shag Eyeshadow
Urban Decay Shag Eyeshadow

Urban Decay Shag Eyeshadow

Urban Decay Shag Deluxe Eyeshadow ($18.00 for 0.09 oz.) is described as a “tan shimmer.” It’s a softened, coppery bronze with a frosted, metallic sheen. The texture is smooth, almost buttery, and the color payoff is amazing–rich, true-to-pan color in a single pass. It’s a warmer color, which means it may turn a little orange on cooler skin tones. It’s darker and more copper than Urban Decay Blaze. Milani’s Fusion is similar but not quite as intense.

I do find the packaging of Urban Decay’s Deluxe Eyeshadows to be a little bulky, and I have four or five where the clear plastic lid falls off easily (but the actual part of the lid that protects the eyeshadow and is hinged to the bottom has always been intact).  On the other hand, you get nearly double the amount of eyeshadow most brands give–even the standard Urban Decay Eyeshadows are only 0.05 oz. as compared to the Deluxe Eyeshadows at 0.09 oz.

The Glossover

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Urban Decay Shag Deluxe Eyeshadow Review, Photos, Swatches

A+
Urban Decay's Deluxe Eyeshadows really combine texture with color payoff (more often than not, at least), and Shag is easy to work with because of the soft, smooth powder and high pigmentation. The packaging is the only misstep, but it's likely not a deal-breaker for most.

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

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Wednesday, June 29th, 2011

NARS Galapagos Eyeshadow
NARS Galapagos Eyeshadow

NARS Galapagos Eyeshadow

NARS Galapagos Eyeshadow ($23.00 for 0.07 oz.) is described as a “bitter chocolate infused with gold.” It’s a really rich, intense brown with a subtle yellow undertone that adds some warmth but doesn’t take away from the richness of the overall color. The larger gold sparkle doesn’t quite make it to the lid when applied (sometimes it shows up a bit but more often than not, it doesn’t), but there is a finer gold shimmer that is threaded through so it’s not an entirely matte shade.

Galapagos has a nice formula, too; it’s a well-pigmented eyeshadow that blends easily, despite its intensity. However, it is supposed to have this gold sparkle, which doesn’t translate onto the lids, so I had to take that into account. Galapagos reminds me of Bobbi Brown’s Black Cocoa, which had a redder base.  NARS lists these eyeshadows as long-wearing and crease-resistant, and they wear pretty well alone (no primer!), but I get about seven to eight hours before it shows slight creasing–it lasts all day with a primer.

NARS’ packaging is very slim, compact, and even the single eyeshadows include a mirror when you flip it open. Rubberized packaging ensures it won’t slip out of your hand, and it helps absorb any impact if you accidentally drop it. The downside to the rubberized packaging is that it can easily show powder debris if you keep it in your makeup bag. I keep my NARS in drawers, and everything is nice and clean.

The Glossover

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NARS Galapagos Eyeshadow Review, Photos, Swatches

B

If you thought browns were "boring," Galapagos is such an intense brown that it breathes new life to the color. NARS proves you can have your oomph with your browns.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4/5

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Wednesday, June 29th, 2011


MAC Parfait Amour Eyeshadow

MAC Eyeshadow Swatches – Purples

Here are several swatches of MAC eyeshadows from the purple family (mostly permanent shades) that are now part of The Swatch Gallery.

Parfait Amour is a cool-toned, blue-based purple with a frost finish. It’s hard to work with, just because the color payoff is low. Inglot #379 is similar in color but it has a matte finish.
Cobalt is a bright blue-indigo with a matte finish. It was a PRO shade but is no longer available. It is a powdery shade. It’s a lighter version of Atlantic Blue.
Beautiful Iris is a soft lilac with a veluxe pearl finish. Such a lovely inner corner highlight shade!
Digit is an ultra pale lilac with a satin finish. It’s much lighter than Beautiful Iris. Inglot #440 is similar, not quite as light, and it has more of a metallic finish in comparison.
Indian Ink is a dark purple with strong, cool undertones and a matte finish. This is a PRO shade.
Graphology is a blackened bluish-purple with a Matte2 finish. It reads more purple in the pan than it does when swatched. It has been discontinued.
Fig. 1 is a plummy eggplant purple with a Matte2 finish.
Vibrant Grape is a brightened raspberry-tinged plum with a satin finish.
Plum Dressing is a raspberry plum with a veluxe pearl finish.
Hepcat is a raspberry pink with a fuchsia-purple sheen. It has a frost finish. It’s less red-based and cooler-toned in comparison to Plum Dressing.
Seedy Pearl is an iridescent pinky-lilac with a frost finish.
Stars ‘n Rockets is a fuchsia-pink with an iridescent violet sheen. It has a veluxe pearl finish. It is similar to Urban Decay Fishnet, which is more pigmented.

The best shades in this selection of purples are Beautiful Iris, Digit, Fig. 1., Plum Dressing, and Seedy Pearl.  I am a huge fan of Stars ‘n Rockets, but Urban Decay’s Fishnet is a more pigmented version–so it’s a good shade but not the best.   Vibrant Grape is finicky, so it can be difficult to work with, as it is a drier matte.  Parfait Amour is the worst of the purples swatched in this post.  You can check out the progress made on the MAC Cosmetics Eyeshadow Swatch Gallery–I think it’s really coming along.  I have a few more palettes to go through of mostly permanent shades, which at this point are browns/neutrals overall.  After that, I’ll move on to re-swatching limited edition shades.

The Glossover

coming-soon

MAC Eyeshadow Swatches - Purples

B

Several of MAC's purples have this gorgeous iridescent sheen--like Beautiful Iris, Digit, and Seedy Pearl--that work well to brighten the eyes.

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Tuesday, June 28th, 2011

Chanel Illusion d'Ombre Long-Wear Luminous Eyeshadow
Chanel Illusion d’Ombre Long-Wear Luminous Eyeshadows

Chanel Fall 2011: Illusion d’Ombre Long-Wear Luminous Eyeshadow

Chanel Illusion d’Ombre Long-Wear Luminous Eyeshadow ($36.00 for 0.14 oz.) is a new product for fall, and it comes in six different shades. Chanel describes these as: “This intensely shimmering long-wear eyeshadow offers true versatility. An innovative gel texture that is both soft and cushiony allows it to be worn as eyeshadow or eyeliner. Includes a specially designed shadow/liner brush, developed specifically for this unique formula.”

I think the most common question I got asked regarding these was, “How do these compare to Giorgio Armani Eyes to Kill Intense?” The easy answer: they don’t. They’re in glass pots with black lids, and they’re really quite differennt otherwise. The formulas are not the same at all. There is such a drastic difference in the texture alone that they do not invite comparison. In terms of color, there may be similarities, but that is no different than comparing any eyeshadow to either of these products. It’s like comparing a the formula of a cream eyeshadow to that of a powder eyeshadow. The texture of these is most like Buxom’s Stay There eyeshadows but these are springier.

  • Fantasme is a bright white with silvery-white shimmer. Of the six, this was the only one that I would categorize as sheer. This is more like white and silver shimmer spread through a clear base. It adds sparkle rather than color. MAC’s Pearl Reflects Glitter is most comparable, but it is a chunkier glitter and will need an adhesive base or modifier to get it to stay (and last I heard, MAC’s Glitters were not eye safe).
  • Emerveille is a soft peach with a hint of brown and a champagne shimmer-sheen. theBalm’s Luscious Lani is very similar in color, perhaps a touch less peach. It seems like it would also be comparable to Benefit’s RSVP.
  • Illusoire is a smoky, purple-mauve over a grayish-brown base with a silvery sheen. This has a frostier finish, compared to the subtly metallic finish of Emerveille. It is similar to MAC Hint of Sapphire, but it doesn’t have the multi-colored shimmer (however, it applies infinitely better). It’s a little taupe, but it does lean purple, so it’s not a true taupe. It ends up looking rather similar to the grayish-purple shade from the same collection’s Prelude Eyeshadow Quad, just with a more shimmery finish.
  • Epatant is a smoky, muted taupe with a hint of green with an antique gold shimmer-sheen. MAC Greensmoke is much darker and greener, while Make Up For Ever #84 is closer in overall color/feel, it is more intense.
  • Mirifique is a dark black with multi-colored shimmer and larger silver sparkle. I can’t think of a dupe for this particular shade, because the way the glitter sits on the black base makes it different. Perhaps MAC Black Tied, but Black Tied is a weaker formula with less color payoff.
  • Ebloui is a burgundy brown with warm, red undertones and multi-colored shimmer that is dominated by gold and cranberry. On me, my yellower undertones pull out the brown tones, while I would expect pinker undertones to pull out the burgundy tones. I couldn’t find a dupe for this one; it’s brown yet burgundy. It might be duped with a mix of Urban Decay Gash and MAC Cranberry.

The texture of these is bizarre–they’re spongy but they bounce back. I imagine this is the texture most expected out of MAC Big Bounce Eyeshadows, actually. They are a gel-based formula, but they have the thickness of a cream, creaminess of a mousse, and springiness of a sponge. It spreads really nicely and evenly on the lid without being sheer (unless you deliberately apply a minute amount).

I found five of the six to be nicely pigmented with no concerns for lack of color payoff–Fantasme was the only one I found lacking in that department. The colors themselves are soft and subtle, with an edge of smokiness, and they tend to be more than just one flat color, so they will easily take on different tones depending on how they’re worn, what they’re paired with, and the undertones in the skin.

On me, these wear twelve hours (worn alone, no primer) without creasing, fading, migrating, or smudging. They apply evenly over the lid, and they’re blendable for long enough to give you time to soften any edges but are never fully wet, so they don’t gather into the creases and lines of the eye before it fully sets. Once it sets, it really doesn’t budge.

The brush included with each shade is actually useful, though in all honesty, it’ll be thrown into a drawer (along with all of those velvety pouches that I don’t use but can’t bear to toss). It works, and it does work well with these–it’s a nice touch, because it’s a quality brush with a thin, angled edge to allow for lining but with enough area to also apply all-over the lid. I prefer brushes with longer handles, but this is one of the better brushes I’ve seen included with a product.

Fantasme, again, was the only shade that was less-than-stellar, and of course, it would not earn the same marks as these do overall or as the other shades.  It is one of six, and it is the only one with any reason for a reduction in rating.  I would give it a 7 on pigmentation and 8.5 on texture.  Again, this is why I prefer reviewing individual shades rather than groups of shades in one post!

The Glossover

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Chanel Illusion d'Ombre Long-Wear Luminous Eyeshadows Swatches, Photos, Reviews

A
With the exception of Fantasme, these are really standout products with an excellent, truly long-wearing formula, gorgeous color selection with nuanced shades, and a product that applies easily.

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

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Tuesday, June 28th, 2011


MAC Newly Minted Eyeshadow

MAC Eyeshadow Swatches – Teals & Blues

Here are several swatches of MAC eyeshadows from the green family (mostly permanent shades) that are now part of The Swatch Gallery.

Newly Minted is a green-based teal with a matte finish. It had a Matte2 finish, but it was discontinued. Make Up For Ever #93 comes the closest–it’s a little brighter but has better color payoff.
Shimmermoss is a blue-teal with a silvery sheen. It has a veluxe pearl finish. Milani Teal the Truth is similar in color but a touch darker, while
Aquadisiac is a green-tinged aqua blue with a soft sheen. It has a lustre finish. Make Up For Ever #168 is the only dupe I could think of, but it’s much darker and not so much an aqua.
Aqua is a soft aqua blue with a matte finish. It’s a little powdery and can look chalky on some complexions. Milani Caribbean Sea is similar in color, though a little darker and shimmery. Inglot #345 has a similar lightness but leans greener.
Plumage is a blackened blue with just a hint of green. It has a matte finish. Inglot #340 is not quite as dark, but it is very similar in color and more pigmented.
Prussian is a dark navy blue with a Matte2 finish. It has been discontinued. Make Up For Ever #60 is the closest shade I could think of, but it is much darker and not quite as blue.
Deep Truth is a dark blue with a frost finish. This is a shade with a fair amount of dupes/cousins. Just to name a few: Make Up For Ever #308, Milani Blue My Mind, and Inglot #428.
Freshwater is a bright, medium blue with a veluxe pearl finish. Inglot #426 is similar, a little darker. Make Up For Ever #167 is also similar but a bit darker.
Blue Calm is a brightened, medium blue with a veluxe pearl finish. It is a PRO shade. It’s just a smidgen lighter than Freshwater (and thus is a smidgen lighter than the comparables listed for Freshwater).
Electric Eel is a bright but darkened cyan blue with a satin finish. Inglot #371 is very similar. Urban Decay Electric is slightly less blue. Make Up For Ever #72 is darker.
Sky Blue is a pale, pastel blue with a white sheen. It has a frost finish and was a PRO shade but is no longer available. Make Up For Ever #150 is very similar. Cle de Peau #112 is also similar but a little lighter.
Winkle is a cornflower blue, almost periwinkle, with a satin finish. It is similar to Inglot #369.
Moon’s Reflection is a purple-tinged blue with a silvery-white sheen. It has a veluxe pearl finish. The closest color I could think of was Inglot #429, which leans more on the purple side and has a brighter white sheen.
Atlantic Blue is a deep, intense cobalt blue with a hint of indigo. It has a matte finish and is a PRO shade. Make Up For Ever #159 is similar but has less violet in it, while Inglot #388 is a little darker and has less blue.

MAC’s matte eyeshadows have a drier texture, and they often perform better in actual application than merely swatched on the arm.  Shades like Aqua, Plumage, and Prussian don’t always swatch perfectly but Plumage and Prussian work better when applied.  Aqua is a finicky shade that sometimes works but not consistently, and the product itself seems to be inconsistent–some pans are better than others.

Atlantic Blue is one of the best matte shades by MAC, because it’s so intense.  Shades like Deep Truth, Freshwater, and Electric Eel are classic blues–all three lovely in color payoff and texture.  Electric Eel has all the hallmarks of a matte but it has a satin finish, so it’s easier to work with.  Sky Blue can be tricky to work with, similar to Aqua’s issues.

It’s a shame that a shade like Newly Minted gets discontinued, though, because it’s not a shade you see often.  (Or, for the older MAC fans, Melody!)

The Glossover

coming-soon

MAC Eyeshadow Swatches - Teals & Blues

B+

MAC does some really great blues, like Freshwater, Blue Calm, Deep Truth, and Electric Eel. Veluxe pearls are some of their smoothest and most pigmented shades, while mattes can be harder to work with.

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

8.5/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4/5

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Tuesday, June 28th, 2011

Chanel Prelude Eyeshadow Quad
Chanel Prelude Eyeshadow Quad

Chanel Fall 2011: Prelude Eyeshadow Quad

Chanel Prelude Eyeshadow Quad ($57.00 for 0.24 oz.) contains four cool-toned shades for fall. According to Chanel’s fall press release, this is new and being added to the permanent range.  This is a lovely mix of colors that complement each other and will work together in numerous variations for soft, neutral looks to heavier, smokier looks.  The finishes are all slightly pearled or shimmery but not too shimmered or frosted.

The eyeshadows are soft and silky smooth; very finely milled without being powdery or chalky.  They apply beautifully and sit well against the skin, because they nearly melt once applied and blend with great ease.  There were no issues with texture or pigmentation in any of these four shades.  Soft where they should be soft, intense where they should be intense.

The upper left shade is a purple-tinged taupe brown with multi-colored micro-shimmer, and it has a shimmery finish. It reminded me of a shimmery version of Burberry Taupe, as well as a less metallic MAC Hint of Sapphire. Inglot’s #434 is much more intense, with a blacker base, and reads more purple. Giorgio Armani’s #1 Eyes to Kill is much more intense, but it has a similar multi-colored shimmer.

On the upper right, there is a warm, metallic-finished ivory gold. It’s subtler and less yellow compared to theBalm’s Devilish Danielle, while MAC Short Shorts is more similar, but it leans a little yellower (same with MAC Manila Paper.

The shade on the bottom left is a soft beige-taupe with a pearled sheen. I couldn’t think of any close shades to this, other than Estee Lauder Tempting Mocha, which appears a bit darker.

Our final shade is a blackened-brown purple with a satin sheen. It’s very intense and bold; it could work well as an eyeliner, too. theBalm’s Feisty Felicia was the closest shade I could find, and it has a very shimmered finish in comparison.

It is reminiscent of a few past Chanel quads, actually. It’s not quite Beiges de Chanel, though I heard a few wonder if it was. The only shade that is similar is the blackened purple. It’s a bit like Stupendous, but the purple-ish shade is much lighter and browner, but the beige-taupe shades are similar.

The Glossover

palette

Prelude

A+
This is one of Chanel's best quads, and it is so perfect for fall. It's soft and smoky, but it is more a mix of taupe, plum, and ivory than grays and blacks. Though it leans cool and will be ideal for cooler skin tones, I think it will be nice on warmer skin tones.

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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