Thursday, May 10th, 2012

Illamasqua Burst Eyeshadow
Illamasqua Burst Eyeshadow

Illamasqua Burst Eyeshadow

Illamasqua Burst Eyeshadow ($20.00 for 0.07 oz.) is described as a “blue-green.” It’s a medium-dark that’s just barely been kissed by tones of teal. It’s more blue than it is teal or green, but it’s not just blue. Tarina Tarantino Ozma is a bit similar in color, but it has a frosted finish, so it ends up looking different. MAC Cool Heat is a little more teal and has a subtle sparkle. Urban Decay Haight is bluer. Inglot #338 is a bit darker.

Another newly released shade, Burst has insane, intense color payoff!  I’m loving how top-notch these new shades from Illamasqua have been.  Not a dud yet!  The texture is soft and smooth, but it never becomes powdery against the skin or during application.  It adhered well to the naked lid; it wore about eight hours without fading or creasing.  What I liked about it was that it was easily blendable over bare lids or over an eyeshadow primer.  I think this is an interesting shade of blue/teal, because it’s not really either of those, but it’s not quite a mix either!  It’s more muted than full-on blue eyeshadow, but there’s not enough green in it to constitute a true teal either.

The Glossover

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Burst

A
I think this is an interesting shade of blue/teal, because it's not really either of those, but it's not quite a mix either! It's more muted than full-on blue eyeshadow, but there's not enough green in it to constitute a true teal either.

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4.5/5

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Wednesday, May 9th, 2012

OCC Datura Loose Colour Concentrate
OCC Datura Loose Colour Concentrate

OCC Datura Loose Colour Concentrate

OCC Datura Loose Colour Concentrate ($12.00 for 0.088 oz. / 2.5 grams) is described as an “opalescent pink/lavender.” It looks pink in the jar, but it is much more lavender once applied; it really has an opalescent finish so it flashes both pink and lavender. When it’s applied damp, the lavender color gets pulled to the forefront, while when it’s applied dry, it looks a bit pinker, softer, and less metallic. It’s more opaque when applied damp as well. MAC Dynamic Duo 2 has a more silvered shade. MAC Light Violet is pinker. theBalm Curtain Call is pinker and darker.

The formula is described as “lightweight, ultra-refined, [and] densely pigmented” that can be used on the eyes, face, and body.  Datura has an incredibly fine-milled consistency that’s softer than silk.  It applies smoothly for the most part, but it seems to have a definite sweet spot if you want to use it wet–it can’t take too much dampness or else it seems to clump up.  I tried using it wet on the inner corner, and it did this to me a bit.  If you want a sheerer look, I would recommend using it dry, rather than wet, and if you wanted to layer this over another shade to add iridescence, that’s also another good way to use this.

Of the five shades that launched with their spring/summer collection, Datura was the only one that was sheer when applied dry.  I had no problem with the wear, though, and there was no residual fallout during the day.  It wore about seven hours over bare skin without fading or migrating; after eight and a half hours, it was very slightly faded.

The Glossover

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Datura

B
If you want a sheerer look, I would recommend using it dry, rather than wet, and if you wanted to layer this over another shade to add iridescence, that's also another good way to use this.

Product

8.5/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4/5

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Tuesday, May 8th, 2012

Milani Pitch Black Powder Eyeshadow
Milani Pitch Black Powder Eyeshadow

Milani Pitch Black Powder Eyeshadow

Milani Pitch Black Powder Eyeshadow ($4.49 for 0.11 oz.) is an intense dark black with a matte finish–though there appears to be a very, very faint sheen, it doesn’t translate on the lid or from afar. It also seems to have very subtle blue undertones (rather than brown), but it’s hard to tell–it’s that close to neutral. Urban Decay Blackout is just slightly richer. Tarina Tarantino Lovely is a little softer. Guerlain Les Ombres de Nuit is similar. Inglot #391 is not quite as dark.

The formula is supposed to be “super pigmented, easily blendable, creaseproof, [and] silk-like.”  This is the second shade I’ve tried from the line-up, and I’m not disappointed.  I think the texture is a little drier than Shocking Pink, but it’s very intense and pigmented.  It’s soft, finely-milled, and doesn’t look chalky when applied.  It blends out fairly easily, though it could be just a little softer and denser.  The good news is that it’s not powdery, so you don’t end up with lots of excess product underneath your lid during application as you might with a more powdery formula.  This particular shade is closer in texture to MAC’s mattes, but it’s not quite as dry.  When I trialed Pitch Black on the bare lid, it wore for eight hours with some slight fading around the edges but no creasing.

It will be available exclusively at select CVS stores this May. I’ve linked to Milani’s website for the time being, as it’s a good starting point for tracking down where Milani is sold near you.  These are packaged in a clear-cover plastic compact and contain over double the amount of product as the average eyeshadow (0.11 oz. vs. 0.05 oz.).

The Glossover

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Pitch Black

A-
It's definitely one of the better budget-friendly blacks--I love that it doesn't have a super dry, chalky texture, and it actually goes on as intense as it looks in the pan.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4.5/5

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Monday, May 7th, 2012

Illamasqua Fledgling Eyeshadow
Illamasqua Fledgling Eyeshadow

Illamasqua Fledgling Eyeshadow

Illamasqua Fledgling Eyeshadow ($20.00 for 0.07 oz.) is described as a “matte kelly green.” It’s a brightened medium grassy green with very subtle yellow undertones and a matte finish. MAC Fresh Flare is darker, cooler-toned. MAC Wondergrass is similar but a touch lighter, yellower, and shimmery. Inglot #384 is darker. Inglot #331 is even darker. Make Up For Ever #91 is just a little lighter and yellower.

Just released, Fledgling is another stellar matte shade to work with.  It’s intensely pigmented with opaque, smooth color payoff with very little product required.  The texture is soft, finely-milled, but not powdery.  If you aren’t a fan of some of the denser, more “buttery” matte shades because of the excess powder they kick up, you may find Illamasqua’s formula a happy medium between drier and softer mattes.  Fledgling wears extremely well with or without a primer; it lasted for eight hours without fading or creasing.

The Glossover

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Fledgling

A
Illamasqua has a stellar matte formula on their hands. If you love pigmented matte eyeshadows that don't have a powdery finish, I think Illamasqua is a good match for you. Fledging has amazing pigmentation, and I love how subtle the yellow undertones are.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4.5/5

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Saturday, May 5th, 2012

Milani Shocking Pink Powder Eyeshadow
Milani Shocking Pink Powder Eyeshadow

Milani Shocking Pink Powder Eyeshadow

Milani Shocking Pink Powder Eyeshadow ($4.49 for 0.11 oz.) is a vibrant magenta pink with strong blue undertones and a very subtle dusting of silver shimmer. This might be one of the most vibrant shades I’ve seen, period, but particularly from a mass brand. Sugarpill Dollipop is less blue-based, pinker. MAC Magenta Madness is a little more intense, darker, and pinker. Make Up For Ever #75 is much, much darker and pinker.

The formula is described as “super pigmented, easily blendable, creaseproof, [and] silk-like.” It’s a pretty tall order, but Milani actually delivers well on all four claims. It’s extremely pigmented; it’s rich in color, and it has a soft, buttery texture that’s dense and so very soft. It’s one of the softer, denser mattes (like Inglot), as compared to MAC’s regular matte formula, which is a drier, firmer matte. The soft, silky-smooth texture enables really easy blending and diffusing of color. It applies and adheres well to the bare lid, lasting about eight hours with no creasing and minor fading around the edges.

It will be available exclusively at select CVS stores this May. I’ve linked to Milani’s website for the time being, as it’s a good starting point for tracking down where Milani is sold near you.  These are packaged in a clear-cover plastic compact and contain almost double the amount of product as the average eyeshadow (0.11 oz. vs. 0.05 oz.).

The Glossover

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Shocking Pink

A
Intensely pigmented, soft as silk, smooth as butter, and easy to blend--what's not to love? Oh, and it's less than $5--even better. Fans of matte eyeshadows who also love their brights will definitely want to keep an eye out at their local CVS!

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

5/5

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Saturday, May 5th, 2012

Chanel Peche Cuivre Le Crayon Khol
Chanel Peche Cuivre Le Crayon Khol

Chanel Peche Cuivre Le Crayon Khol

Chanel Peche Cuivre Le Crayon Khol ($28.00 for 0.05 oz.) is a golden peach with a subtly metallic finish. It’s actually very similar to Giorgio Armani’s #5 Copper from the holidays–it might be the faintest bit darker.  This shade is one that is best as a brightener–it’s the kind of hue that works really well on the water line to wake up peepers, but the texture of this doesn’t lend itself to comfortable application on the water line.

The formula is supposed to have “rich, intense” color with a “semi-matte finish.” It is also listed as safe for usage on the rim of the eye. Each of Chanel’s pencil eyeliners comes with its own sharpener. The color applies mostly opaque in one pass, but it requires a lot of pressure to get it to apply evenly in one go. I’m not keen on the hard, dry texture of the pencil; it feels rough against the lash line. It will pull and tug noticeably, and I ended up having to go back and forth several times rather than exert more pressure as it wasn’t comfortable to use otherwise.

This color may be most striking on deeper skin tones, because on my complexion, it just gets lost.  It only wore for six hours before looking faded; this combined with the harder texture makes this a disappointment.  Chanel’s Le Crayon Yeux is a much better formula, so I was really shocked at how different (in a bad way) this formula was.  Eyeliners really need to be soft, provide good color payoff, and wear long and well.  I think there are too many stellar eyeliner formulas on the market to make excuses for under-performers.

The Glossover

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Peche Cuivre

D
This color may be most striking on deeper skin tones, because on my complexion, it just gets lost. It only wore for six hours before looking faded; this combined with the harder texture makes this a disappointment.

Product

6.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

5/10

Longevity

6.5/10

Application

3/5

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