Friday, May 18th, 2012


MAC Barefoot Eyeshadow

MAC Hey, Sailor: Eyeshadows

MAC Hey, Sailor Eyeshadows ($16.00 for 0.05 oz.) includes five shades: Barefoot (tarnished gold), Crystal Avalanche (white with reflects), Feeling Fresh (bright green), Jaunty (light yellow beige), and Nautical Navy (blue).

  • Barefoot is a dirty warm gold with hints of bronze. This has a veluxe pearl finish. The texture was soft but it wasn’t fully opaque–there’s some sheerness in it. The color has a lot of warmth and some orange in it, so it doesn’t look like your traditional yellow gold. It’s not quite subdued enough or brown enough to be the average antique/tarnished gold. OCC Acacia is lighter. Bare Escentuals Remix is a bit lighter and yellower. MAC Goldmine is yellower and lighter. Inglot #404 is darker and more bronze. Milani Drenched in Gold is a little lighter, less orange.
  • Crystal Avalanche is a highly frosted bright white. This is part of the permanent range, and it has a veluxe pearl finish. It had the best color payoff of the five shades in the launch. It can be an interesting shade to use, because of both its brightness and the frostiness of its finish, so using a light touch with it may be best. Maybelline Too Cool is a bit cooler-toned. theBalm Sassy is a bit more frosted. Bare Escentuals Cheers is very close. Inglot #453 is more metallic.
  • Feeling Fresh is a grassy green with yellow undertones and a silver sparkle. It felt more like a velvet finish to me, but it is a frost. The color payoff is pretty disappointing when swatched, and it has a dry texture that skips and doesn’t bind together well. I wasn’t able to get it to apply well over bare lids, but over a primer and packed on with the 213, I was able to achieve true-to-pan vibrancy. It’s much yellower compared to MAC Jealousy Wakes. OCC Foxfire is lighter, yellower. MAC Fresh Flare is a bit darker. MAC Wondergrass is much yellower and brighter. Inglot #384 is darker, yellower.
  • Jaunty is a warm, light-medium beige with a slightly metallic sheen. This has a frost finish. The color payoff is so-so, but I imagine most people who gravitate towards this shade will like some of that underlying transparency. Buxom Collie is a bit darker. NARS Ramatuelle is lighter.
  • Nautical Navy is a dark navy blue with soft blue and silver shimmer. This has a satin finish. The texture is very, very dry, stiff, and chalky. It skips on the skin, and it still continued to behave poorly when I applied it to the lid both over a primer and over bare lids. MAC Naval Blue is similar but more intense, a little brighter/bluer. MAC Lunar is very comparable. MAC Shop & Drop is also very similar. There’s really no shortage of navy blues on the market, all with varying degrees of quality, but the majority are better than this one.

I think people will like these shades, but I don’t think they’re the best in regards to quality.  Barefoot, Crystal Avalanche, and Jaunty are the best out of the five, while Nautical Navy is by far the worst.  Feeling Fresh isn’t superb, but if you use it over a primer, it’s much, much better, which I suspect is how many readers use their eyeshadows, so it’s not lots and lots of extra effort. Nautical Navy is extremely dry and stiff, which makes blending difficult and getting intense color nearly impossible.

With an eyeshadow primer, I had no wear problems with these eyeshadows, and I’ve worn all five (three on one day, five the next). There was no creasing or fading after eight hours of wear over a primer.  MAC does indicate these are long-wearing, so I also tested them without a primer, and there’s very slight creasing after eight hours and some fading.

The Glossover

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MAC Hey, Sailor Eyeshadows Review, Photos, Swatches

B-
Jaunty is actually my favorite out of the collection--it's soft, neutral, and very wearable on all skin tones. Feeling Fresh is workable/buildable, even though it's not stellar in all ways. Barefoot would be my next pick, but it could be a little more pigmented. Crystal Avalanche is permanent, so you can purchase it for a $1 less in regular packaging.

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4/5

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Friday, May 18th, 2012


MAC Blue Stripe Powerpoint Eye Pencil

MAC Hey, Sailor: Powerpoint Eye Pencils

MAC Hey, Sailor Powerpoint Eye Pencils ($16.00 for 0.04 oz.) include three shades: Blue Stripe (dark navy), Emerald Sea (kelly green), and Handforged (metallic yellow gold). The Powerpoint formula is supposed to be very soft with “deep, fully opaque coverage.”

  • Blue Stripe is a navy blue with subtle dark blue shimmer and a hint of purple. It’s pretty sheer in one pass–looks more blackened blue that way. It’s similar to Make Up For Ever #3L. MAC Prussian is also similar.
  • Emerald Sea is a soft springy green with yellow undertones. The color payoff is so-so here; it’s semi-opaque but it will fold over itself, so it’s hard to get a really rich, opaque line of color. Make Up For Ever #17L is more metallic and lighter.
  • Handforged is a bronzy copper with gold sparkle and shimmer. It doesn’t have rich pigmentation in a single stroke, and it seems to stay somewhat sheer even when layered. The sparkle in this shade is a bit chunky, though it didn’t feel gritty when I applied it to the lash line. It is different from these golds. It’s a little more golden compared to Make Up For Ever #10L.

The Powerpoint formula feels very soft and fairly creamy, though it also has a waxy consistency. This allows for easy gliding, but it seems to interfere with really intense color being deposited. I also had trouble getting all three shades to apply evenly and opaquely. I was disappointed in the overall color payoff of these. I managed to test all three, and they all wore comparably: around seven and a half hours without budging or smudging, but there was some fading after eight hours.

The Glossover

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MAC Hey, Sailor Powerpoint Eye Pencils Review, Photos, Swatches

B-
All three lacked in pigmentation, some more so than others. They glided on, but they did not deposit even, opaque color, even after layering. They didn't quite wear for a full eight-hour day, which also brought down the overall rating.

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

3.5/5

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Thursday, May 17th, 2012


MAC Hey, Sailor Pigments in Naval Blue and Old Gold

MAC Hey, Sailor Pigments

MAC Hey, Sailor Pigments ($21.00 for 0.15 oz.) include two shades: Naval Blue (deep smoky blue) and Old Gold (high frosted tarnished gold).  They are in special packaging with the naval stripes wrapping around the clear jar and have a glossy navy blue cap (as compared to the rubberized black cap of the regular packaging).  These were actually more user-friendly to use and didn’t seem to spill as much as the regular packaging, oddly enough.  Please note that neither shade is recommended for use in the lip area.

  • Naval Blue is a dark navy blue with a hint of purple–all of the blues in this launch seem to have this kiss of purple–that makes it a real pain to photograph, because sometimes it looks purpler than it ought! It’s similar to MAC Blue Storm, which came out this past fall (and was a repromote then). It’s also similar to Givenchy Lune Mordoree. For a more in-depth review, please read this review from February :) This shade is permanent at PRO stores.
  • Old Gold is a dirty brown-gold with a green flash. It’s softer, browner, and less metallic when applied dry. I couldn’t think of a dupe that has the same green tinge, but there are a few that resemble the gold hue. Maybelline Bold Gold is browner, less warm. NARS Paramaribo is similar but darker. Make Up For Ever #11 is greener, less brown. OCC Cruising is darker and browner. Le Metier de Beaute Chameleon is more muted, browner.

MAC Pigments are supposed to be long-wearing with special ingredients that enable it to adhere to the skin. I’ve tried several different shades damp over bare skin, and I typically get around eight hours of wear with minor creasing and fading. I prefer to use Pigments with MAC’s Mixing Medium, which is an adhesive base, and then I see flawless wear even after twelve hours. Over an eyeshadow primer, the wear is just about as good. Pigments can be used wet or dry, though they tend to intensify in color and in finish when applied damp or wet–but they do retain those qualities even after it dries.

P.S. — Because of the special packaging, MAC has tacked on an extra dollar, so if you have access to the permanent versions in regular packaging, those are $20 each.

The Glossover

P
product

Naval Blue

B+
MAC makes an excellent loose color product if you combine it with a wet or adhesive base, because they have a good formula that enables the color to bind well when damp and stay vibrant all day--but when used dry or alone, they tend to under-perform.

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4/5

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Wednesday, May 16th, 2012

Illamasqua CanCan Eyeshadow
Illamasqua CanCan Eyeshadow

Illamasqua CanCan Eyeshadow

Illamasqua Can Can Eyeshadow ($20.00 for 0.07 oz.) is described as a “bright lilac purple.” It’s a medium lilac with strong purple tones and a cool undertone. The finish is matte. Benefit Fancy Pansy is closest in color, but it’s lighter and has a shimmery finish, so it appears different. Inglot #346 is lighter, more pastel.

Can Can had lovely color payoff, but it was a smidgen on the drier side, so there was a little powderiness to contend with. It’s not overly difficult to deal with, but it’s noticeable and must be mentioned. It can be hard to find a shade of lavender like this that has such strong pigmentation, though, and it’s what makes this shade stand out the most.  I liked that it was darker than your average lavender/lilac shade, because it’s easier to wear, especially on medium to dark skin tones.  The texture is soft and smooth but a little too soft (hence the powderiness).  When I tested the wear, it managed seven hours with light fading around the edges but no creasing.

The Glossover

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Can Can

A-
It can be hard to find a shade of lavender like this that has such strong pigmentation, though, and it's what makes this shade stand out the most. I liked that it was darker than your average lavender/lilac shade, because it's easier to wear, especially on medium to dark skin tones.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

10/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4/5

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Tuesday, May 15th, 2012

OCC Foxfire Loose Colour Concentrate
OCC Foxfire Loose Colour Concentrate

OCC Foxfire Loose Colour Concentrate

OCC Foxfire Loose Colour Concentrate ($12.00 for 0.088 oz. / 2.5 grams) is described as a “silvery lime-green shimmer.” It’s a shimmery medium green with yellow undertones. MAC Fresh Flare is darker, less shimmery. Wet ‘n’ Wild Bright Idea is less yellow-toned. MAC Wondergrass is more vibrant and darker.

Applied dry, it’s on the sheerer side, softer in color, and pulls more like a springy yellow-green. When it’s applied wet, it’s much darker and greener. What’s interesting about the difference is that it is almost like having two different colors, because the dry version is only slightly sheer, almost translucent, but much, much lighter.  Perhaps the difference is that it’s light and delicately translucent as compared to sheer in a patchy kind of way.  I love that when you use it damp, the color continues to look that intense once it dries. The texture is soft, finely-milled, and applies smoothly, but it’s the tiniest bit powdery. When I tested it out, it wore for a full eight hours without any fading or creasing.

The Glossover

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Foxfire

A-
This is a great shade for spring and summer; it has a lighter coloring that's perfect for spring but enough vibrancy to take you into summer. It's soft, smooth, and really nice when applied damp. The color stays rich and intense even after it dries down.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4.5/5

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Monday, May 14th, 2012

theBalm Meet Matt(e) Eyeshadow Palette
theBalm Meet Matt(e) Eyeshadow Palette

theBalm Meet Matt(e) Eyeshadow Palette

theBalm Meet Matt(e) Eyeshadow Palette ($34.00 for 0.33 oz.) contains nine matte eyeshadows named after theBalm’s favorite Matts. It includes a small, dual-ended bristle brush, which is usable and better than sponge-tipped brushes that are often included in these kinds of palettes, but it wouldn’t replace full-sized brushes for me. The palette is small, square-ish, and made out of heavy-duty cardboard. It flips open and has a mirror under the lid.

Overall, the texture of these shades are soft, smooth, and buttery–they’re not as dense or as buttery as theBalm’s more shimmery eyeshadows (think the Shady Lady series or their singles). These are finely-milled and soft enough that there is some excess powder kicked up when you go to use them. The majority of the shades applied with good to excellent color payoff, though Matt Chung was a little chalky and sheer, Matt Schilling wasn’t chalky but it was a bit sheer and a little dry, and Matt Patel was slightly sheer in places and didn’t apply as smoothly. Also worth noting, Matt Batali was a bit drier and not as soft or as dense as the other shades in the palette, but the pigmentation didn’t suffer as a consequence.

Each eyeshadow is 0.037 oz., whereas the average full-sized eyeshadow is typically 0.05 oz. I actually like the size of each shade, because they’re about 75% the size of regular full-sized ones (though theBalm’s individuals shades are 0.10 oz.), you still get plenty of product, but the entire compact fits in your hand and is very travel-friendly. I will point out the obvious that theBalm’s Shady Lady palettes contain a whopping 0.60 oz. (almost double the size of this palette) and retail for $39.50, which is only a little bit more. Nude ‘tude is slightly larger at 0.38 oz. and retails for $36. The Shady Lady palettes are still a super-sized value palette in comparison, but I think the pricing is about right here, and you’re getting a good amount of product for your buck.

The Glossover

palette

Meet Matt(e)

A-
It's definitely one of the better matte eyeshadow palettes I've come across (though two shades aren't entirely matte). Overall, there is good color payoff, smooth, soft textures, and they're blendable and wear well on the eye.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4.5/5

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