Friday, August 31st, 2012


Urban Decay Ocho Loco 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil Set

One Sweet Deal for Your Eyes

Urban Decay Ocho Loco 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil Set ($59.00 for 0.32 oz.) includes eight shades: Hustle (medium brown metallic), Junkie (teal with bright gold shimmer), LSD (navy with bright turquoise shimmer), Mushroom (taupe-pewter metallic), Perversion (blackest-black matte), Psychedelic Sister (bright purple shimmer), Rockstar (darkest eggplant), and Stash (dark green/gold).  It also includes Grindhouse, which is a sharpener.

  • Hustle is a medium-dark brown with subtly warm undertones and bronze sparkle and sheen. It has good pigmentation in a single pass. Chanel Brun-Cuivre is just a touch darker with a red undertone. Urban Decay Bourbon has less sparkle and a stronger red undertone. MAC Lord It Up is darker.
  • Junkie is a blue-based teal with gold and teal sparkle. It has decent color payoff in a single pass but needs to be layered to pop. Tarina Tarantino Spark of Envy is greener and has no sparkle. MAC Undercurrent is exactly the same.
  • LSD is a blackened navy blue with lighter blue sparkle. The color payoff was rather disappointing, and you definitely need to go back and forth to get decent opacity. MAC Petrol Blue is much, much richer and bluer. MAC Industrial is a bit lighter.
  • Mushroom is a gray-brown taupe with a shimmer-sheen. The pigmentation in a single go is decent. Urban Decay Underground was the only possible dupe I could think of, but it is much browner.
  • Perversion is a rich, deep black with a matte finish. It has good color payoff in a single pass. MAC Black Black, MAC Feline, Giorgio Armani #1 are all very similar.
  • Psychedelic Sister is a medium violet purple with subtle pink-red undertones and a soft sheen. The color payoff was good, and for a purple, noteworthy. MAC Designer Purple is a smidgen darker and has sparkle. MAC Rich Purple is darker, less pink.
  • Rockstar is a dark eggplant purple with burgundy shimmer. It has good pigmentation in one pass. Chanel Cassis is matte. Urban Decay Crash is very comparable.
  • Stash is an olive-green with antique gold shimmer. The color payoff is really good in a single go. MAC Buried Treasure is slightly darker. Stila Moray is a bit greener.

If you’ve ever wanted to try Urban Decay’s eyeliners or you enjoy them and want more of them, grabbing this set is a brilliant way to go, because you’re getting $162 worth of product for $59.  Grindhouse is the only sharpener I actually use; it’s a dual-sharpener so you can sharpen both regular eyeliners as well as the jumbo-sized pencils.  I use it for Urban Decay’s eyeliners as well as any other eyeliner or jumbo-sized pencil I need sharpened. Each eyeliner is full-sized, and normally, full-sized eyeliners retail for $19.  Not all of these shades are available individually, so if you want shades like Hustle, LSD, Mushroom, Psychedelic Sister, or Junkie, you’re going to have to pick this up.

The formula is good overall, though pigmentation tends to be mostly opaque, some shades do fall short.  All shades in this set are buildable, so you can get opaque color if desired, just not necessarily in one pass.  The least pigmented shades from this set were Junkie and LSD.  The most pigmented shades were Perversion, Rockstar, and Stash.  I usually get around eight hours with no fading or smudging with Urban Decay’s eyeliner formula, and I’ve been wearing them for years. All eight shades felt creamy and glided across the skin easily without skipping.

The Glossover

palette

Urban Decay Ocho Loco 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil Set Review, Photos, Swatches

A
Of all the holiday items from Urban Decay that they've announced so far, this is the best value, and the one kit I'd recommend putting on your holiday wish list.

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4.5/5

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Friday, August 31st, 2012


Urban Decay Whiskey/Zero 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil

Can’t Decide Between Brown and Black?

Urban Decay Whiskey/Zero 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil ($12.00 for 0.02 oz.) is described as a “rich brown” and “zealous black.” It costs less than a full-sized eyeliner ($19), because it’s half the size–but you do get to try two shades. Unfortunately, Whiskey is not available individually, though Zero is, in case that’s the side you would use most often!

Whiskey is a medium-dark brown with warm, orange undertones and a faint sheen. It has good color payoff in a snigle pass, and it’s a nice alternative to black, because it’s lighter and brighter. Urban Decay Bourbon has bronze sparkle and has less orange undertones. MAC Brownborder is darker.

Zero is a soft black. The pigmentation in one pass is decent but I recommend going back and forth at least once to get truly opaque color. MAC Engraved and MAC Graphblack are similar. Urban Decay Perversion is much darker.

I’m a fan of the 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil formula, because it’s long-wearing, pigmented, creamy, and easy to apply.  It was my very favorite formula for several years!  I still reach for shades from the range often.  Both shades wear just around eight hours on the lower lash line for me, with no fading or smudging.  Whiskey is creamier and more pigmented than Zero, which feels a smidgen dry in comparison, though I would not go so far as to describe it as such.

The Glossover

palette

Whiskey/Zero

A
Depending on your eyeliner needs, this might be a great travel item or staple. In the long run, if you use a lot of black, it's not the most ideal way to purchase, since you're paying more than if you bought a full-sized black eyeliner.

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4.5/5

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Thursday, August 30th, 2012

MAC Jungle Camouflage Face Kit
MAC Jungle Camouflage Face Kit

MAC & Carine Roitfeld: Jungle Camouflage Face Kit

MAC Jungle Camouflage Face Kit ($44.00 for 0.40 oz.) includes four eyeshadows: Dew (soft creamy beige), Camo (muted grayish taupe), Bad Lieutenant (blackened deep brown), and Carbon (intense black) as well as one Cremeblend Blush, Bootcamp Bronze (soft sheer chestnut).

Dew is a light warm beige with a subtle golden shimmer-sheen. It has a veluxe pearl finish. It’s color payoff is decent, but it’s a little dry and noticeably sheer. MAC Sahara Dust is less warm, less golden. Tarina Tarantino Elektron is similar but more metallic. Wet ‘n’ Wild Comfort Zone has a very similar shade.

Camo is medium brown with a barest hint of gray, but it has a noticeably warm undertone despite the inclusion of gray. It has a satin finish. The color payoff was the best out of the four shades–good overall, slightly dry in texture. Burberry Pale Barley is warmer with more of a shimmery finish. theBalm Sultry is very similar, just slightly darker. Bare Escentuals Namaste is grayer and darker. MAC Era is similar but more shimmery.

Bad Lieutenant is a blackened gray with a hint of burgundy. It has a matte finish. The pigmentation is poor, and the texture dry and stiff. On the lid, it was marginally better, but it was not very blendable. Guerlain by Emilio Pucci is more intense, more of a red undertone. Tarina Tarantino Saw Dust is very similar but more pigmented. MAC Dance in the Dark is comparable. MAC Midnight Flurry is marginally lighter. Wet ‘n’ Wild We’re Blasting Off is more cool-toned.

Carbon is a matte black, but if you look in the pan, there are a lot of sparkles–just none of them seem to translate. It was the oddest thing. This shade is part of the permanent range, and it’s actually included in both of the face kits in the collection, and they were about equal in their dry, stiff, poor color payoff-yielding textures. Slightly more pigmented when I used it on the eye (with a 222 brush), but boy, it did not want to move or budge, which made blending a pain in the butt!

Cremeblend Blushes are supposed to be creamy, easy to blend, have medium coverage, and have a natural finish. Bootcamp Bronze is a medium-dark orange-tan with a strong orange undertone. It’s a bit darker than the shade in the other face kit, but when you apply it to the skin, the difference is minute. While the color is buildable, it’s only to a point, and I’m not sure how well it will show up on darker complexions, as it took some layering to get it to show up on me–and when it does, it’s very faint–and I’m medium in color.  The wear with this shade was the same as Sand Storm: six hours of wear, at which point, there was noticeable separation and fading–and it did not care for having my drier cheeks under it at all.

This palette contains 0.22 oz. of eyeshadows (0.055 oz. each, which is 0.005 oz. more than a regular full-sized MAC eyeshadow), which is a $66 value. There is 0.18 oz. of Cremeblend Blush in here, which normally retails for $20.00/0.19 oz., so there is $18.95 value from that, for a total palette value of $84.95. (Note: Cremeblend blushes and eyeshadows are sold in pan form, depending on the shade, but I went with individual product prices, not pan prices. From a pan perspective, there is $52.80 in eyeshadow value and $16.11 in Cremeblend Blush value, for a total value of $68.91.) From a quantity point of view, this is absolutely a deal, which is great news!

Again, as a quick note: the two palettes are very, very similar with the major difference between in finish–this palette is more matte, while Desert Camouflage is more shimmery. I think this one has less quality than Desert Camouflage, because three shades are lacking in color payoff, and the textures across the board were dry, with some being particularly stiff (like Bad Lieutenant and Carbon).  When I wore these eyeshadows together, they wore for six and a half hours over a primer before starting to look faded.  Without a primer, they were more difficult to apply and blend, but they wore about the same length of time.

The Glossover

palette

Jungle Camouflage

D+
I think this one has less quality than Desert Camouflage, because three shades are lacking in color payoff, and the textures across the board were dry, with some being particularly stiff (like Bad Lieutenant and Carbon).

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

6.5/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

3.5/5

Results
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Thursday, August 30th, 2012

MAC Desert Camouflage Face Kit
MAC Desert Camouflage Face Kit

MAC & Carine Roitfeld: Desert Camouflage Face Kit

MAC Desert Camouflage Face Kit ($44.00 for 0.40 oz.) includes four eyeshadows: Sahara Dust (light neutral beige), Cactus Thorn (mid-tone brown bronze), Desert (shimmering warm taupe), and Carbon (intense black) as well as one Cremeblend Blush, Sand Storm (soft sheer warm caramel).

Sahara Dust is a pale beige with a soft, frosted finish. It has a satin finish, officially. The color payoff is decent, and it works well as a highlighter on the brow bone or inner tear duct. Illamasqua Slink is similar, slightly frostier. MAC Brule is more matte. Giorgio Armani Madreperla has a frostier finish. MAC Baby, It’s Cold is a smidgen yellower. MAC Vanilla is a touch lighter.

Cactus Thorn is a softened bronze-shimmered medium-dark brown. It has a frost finish. The pigmentation is good, though the texture was a bit dry. Dior Golden Savannaha is darker, browner. Giorgio Armani #26 is more shimmery. Urban Decay Chase is warmer and more metallic. theBalm Schitzo is very similar, but more pigmented and slightly more golden-toned. Wet ‘n’ Wild Comfort Zone is richer.

Desert is a gray-tinged brown with a hint of plum. It has a satin finish. It has decent color payoff but had a dry, stiffer texture. Bobbi Brown Slate is softer, more matte. MAC Aurora is lighter, more frosted. Dolce &G abbana Jewels is grayer. Inglot #360 is similar but matte.

Carbon is a matte black, but if you look in the pan, there are a lot of sparkles–just none of them seem to translate. It was the oddest thing. I feel like every time I swatch Carbon, it gets worse. And I’m not swatching the same one! This shade is part of the permanent range, and it’s actually included in both of the face kits in the collection, and they were about equal in their dry, stiff, poor color payoff-yielding textures. Slightly more pigmented when I used it on the eye (with a 222 brush), but boy, it did not want to move or budge, which made blending a pain in the butt! Because I happened to also have a really rich black that I was swatching (completely unplanned!) that was insanely pigmented, I took a comparison photo, just so you can see why Carbon is such a disappointment.

Cremeblend Blushes are supposed to be creamy, easy to blend, have medium coverage, and have a natural finish. Sand Storm is a warm, orange-tan with a soft, barely dewy finish (it read mostly matte when it dried down and set). There’s a yellowy-orange undertone that comes through. MAC Lush-Light is darker, browner. MAC Refined Golden is browner. MAC Tan Tint is a smidgen darker. It can be used sheerly with ease, and it can be built up a bit, though I’m not sure it will show up well on darker complexions–it just barely shows on mine (I’m about NC30 at the moment). It may add warmth without adding noticeable color. Yesterday, when I was testing the wear, my cheeks were slightly dry, and this wasn’t forgiving, unfortunately. I was hoping that the creamy consistency would help and was happy that I was testing a cream blush instead of a powder one, LOL! After six hours, it had separated and faded noticeably.

This palette contains 0.22 oz. of eyeshadows (0.055 oz. each, which is 0.005 oz. more than a regular full-sized MAC eyeshadow), which is a $66 value. There is 0.18 oz. of Cremeblend Blush in here, which normally retails for $20.00/0.19 oz., so there is $18.95 value from that, for a total palette value of $84.95. (Note: Cremeblend blushes and eyeshadows are sold in pan form, depending on the shade, but I went with individual product prices, not pan prices. From a pan perspective, there is $52.80 in eyeshadow value and $16.11 in Cremeblend Blush value, for a total value of $68.91.) From a quantity point of view, this is absolutely a deal, which is great news!

It’s a decent palette, but the inclusion of Carbon is really bringing down the overall quality of it on the whole.  The other three eyeshadows have decent color payoff, with Sahara Dust being the easiest to work with.  Sand Storm didn’t have fantastic wear, but it was blendable and looked good initially.  These eyeshadows were less stellar without a primer–they were less blendable and faded after six hours. Over a primer, I saw some minor fading of Desert and Carbon.  

It’s hard to recommend or feel good about a palette when one shade is such a dud and four shades are decent but not really phenomenal. I keep hoping for a stellar launch from MAC, but they aren’t making it easy at all.

I’ll have my review for the Jungle Camouflage palette up soon, but as a quick note: the two palettes are very, very similar with the major difference between in finish–this palette is more shimmery, while Jungle Camouflage is more matte.

The Glossover

palette

Desert Camouflage

B-
It's a decent palette, but the inclusion of Carbon is really bringing down the overall quality of it on the whole. The other three eyeshadows have decent color payoff, with Sahara Dust being the easiest to work with. Sand Storm didn't have fantastic wear, but it was blendable and looked good initially. It's hard to recommend or feel good about a palette when one shade is such a dud and four shades are decent but not really phenomenal.

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Monday, August 27th, 2012

Illamasqua Complement Eyeshadow Palette
Illamasqua Complement Eyeshadow Palette

These Shades Definitely Complement Each Other

Illamasqua Complement Eyeshadow Palette ($42.50 for -0.20 oz.) contains four shades: Slink (soft champagne shimmer), Focus (cool brown metallic), Forgiveness (rich chocolate plum), and Queen of the Night (blackened plum).

Slink is a pale champagne beige with a frosted finish. The color payoff was good, and it applied smoothly. It’s not an uncommon shade, though, so you may find you have several similar shades in your stash. Just a few shades to consider: Tarina Tarantino Elektron, MAC Call Me Bubbles, Giorgio Armani Madreperla, Urban Decay Booty Call, MAC Baby It’s Cold, MAC Dazzlelight, and many more.

Focus is a medium-dark brown with a gray-ish tinge and a soft, metallic finish. This is a Liquid Metal, so it’s like a cream eyeshadow in feel. When I used it alone, it was prone to creasing after a few hours. When I used it underneath other eyeshadows in the palette, it didn’t crease. Bare Escentuals Most Requested has more plum in it. Tom Ford Platinum has less red-orange tones. Urban Decay YDK is more golden. Urban Decay Wreckage is grayer.

Forgiveness is a soft plum with red undertones and a matte finish. This shade had decent pigmentation but was a little sheer and powdery. Lancome Color du Jour is a bit darker and has gold sparkle. Make Up For Ever #131 is darker and more intense. NARS Grand Palais is browner, less plum.

Queen of the Night is a dark, smoky purple with a blackened brown base and very fine shimmer (that doesn’t really translate). The texture was very, very dry and somewhat powdery, while the color payoff was good. Queen of the Night Pure Pigment is much better than the eyeshadow iteration. Bare Escentuals Romp is lighter. Urban Decay Rockstar is purpler. MAC Hypnotizing is lighter. NARS Lhasa is lighter and grayer. Bobbi Brown Black Violet is somewhat similar when sheered out.

All four shades work really well together, and it’s a very smoky, purple-themed look.  The quality, overall, is just okay.  The dryness and powderiness of Forgiveness and Queen of the Night were disappointing, especially because those are the two more interesting shades in the palette.  I really had to pack on Queen of the Night to get decent intensity, and it was prone to disappearing when you went to blend the color.  I noticed that after eight hours, Queen of the Night looked rather faded when applied over Focus.  I didn’t see creasing, but there was some fading.  However, I also layered Slink over Focus, and I didn’t see any fading there.

The Glossover

palette

Complement

C+
The quality, overall, is just okay. The dryness and powderiness of Forgiveness and Queen of the Night were disappointing, especially because those are the two more interesting shades in the palette. I really had to pack on Queen of the Night to get decent intensity, and it was prone to disappearing when you went to blend the color.

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

3.5/5

Results
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Sunday, August 26th, 2012

Illamasqua Wisdom Precision Ink Liquid Eyeliner
Illamasqua Wisdom Precision Ink Liquid Eyeliner

Antique Gold May Be the Color of Wisdom

Illamasqua Wisdom Precision Ink Liquid Eyeliner ($27.50 for 0.06 oz.) is described as an “antiqued gold.” It has a deep olive brown base with antique gold and copper micro-shimmer. When it’s applied and seen from a distance, it does resemble antique gold more than it seems when you first swatch it. Chanel Khaki Dore is much lighter. When applied, MAC Buried Treasure is comparable. Urban Decay Stash is greener. MAC Blackline looks greener. MAC Desires & Devices and Stila Flash are much greener. MAC Defiantly Feline is more coppery.

The Precision Ink formula is supposed to be an “intense, waterproof liquid eyeliner” that’s long-wearing and “dries within seconds.”  If you’re familiar with MAC Superslick Eyeliners, Make Up For Ever Aqua Liners, or Stila Sparkle Liners–this formula is very much like those. There’s no real distinction between them, other than they vary in color range, some are just a wee bit thinner or more watery. But the reality is they perform and wear and feel very much the same across the board. In this instance, that’s a good thing, because they all wear like iron.

Precision Ink does dry down quickly (about 20 seconds) and sets into place; no smudging, budging, fading, or the like happens until I remove it (which was 10 hours with Wisdom). When I use a cleansing oil, it removes easily. I can take a shower or swim with this formula on and not experience any problems. It applies mostly opaque in a single go, though a second go-through might be necessary for a really crisp line.

The Glossover

P
product

Wisdom

A
I wish it was completely opaque in a single pass, because it would be easier to apply and get the precision you wanted in a single go.

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

4/5

Results
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