Hourglass Graphite Modernist Eyeshadow Palette
Hourglass Graphite Modernist Eyeshadow Palette ($58.00 for 0.175 oz.) is an interesting mix of neutrals with two pops of bolder color–a coppery-orange and a bluish-teal. The new formula is supposed to be long-wearing, “crease-resistant,” and “richly-pigmented.” Though I am a fan of Hourglass and often think they put out excellent products, I wasn’t too impressed by this eyeshadow palette. The matte shades, while incredibly soft and finely-milled, are extremely powdery to work with. There is an excessive amount of powder kicked up just touching the brush to the surface, and even after tapping that excess off the brush, there is still fall out during application. The mattes didn’t wear well, and they were harder to blend on the skin for me.
The shimmery shades are not quite as prone to powderiness, but there is still some powder fall out during application. These shades can also be used wet or dry, and I had the best luck using them damp, as it prevented fall out and helped maintain intensity without having to build up the colors in layers. Wear was all over the place, so the eyeshadow formula on the whole seemed rather inconsistent. It is particularly disappointing, because Hourglass’ previous powder eyeshadow formula was one of the softest, most buttery and well-done, period. Here’s hoping the other palettes perform better, and this was just a one-off.
The two palettes I received as press samples were damaged on the top. I bought the four other palettes, so if those have any issues, I’ll be sure to note those things in the relevant review. A reader mentioned hers (that she purchased) also had scratches on the lid, which is an issue when you price your product at $58.
Graphite #1 is described as a “warm ivory.” It’s a very light beige with subtle, warm undertones and a matte finish. It was very dusty and was difficult to apply to the skin; it just didn’t want to stay on well, and it was faded within six hours. See comparison swatches / view dupes.
Graphite #2 is described as a “copper gold.” It’s a brightened, copper with a warm, metallic sheen. Applied dry, it was very sheer and dry, even though the powder itself was incredibly fine. Unfortunately, it was only usable when applied with a damp brush and really pressed and smoothed over the skin, and then I was able to get rich, opaque color. Applied dry, it was a total mess; I could only see it working dry over a slightly tacky base. Dry, it was faded within a few hours, but applied damp, it lasted for almost seven hours. See comparison swatches / view dupes.
Graphite #3 is described as a “deep brown.” It’s a dark brown with warm undertones and a satin finish. It had decent to good pigmentation, but the consistency was also powdery with a dryness to it that made it harder to blend on the skin. It just seems to stick wherever it initially lands without wanting to really diffuse or soften. It lasted for seven hours on me before fading. See comparison swatches / view dupes.
Graphite #4 is described as a “gun metal.” It’s a steely gray with a hint of blue and a pearly sheen. Applied dry, it was mostly opaque but less blendable. Applied dampened, it was more opaque and deeper, and it was easier to apply to the lid and use, though it dried back down quickly and became harder to blend out the edges. It wore longer–almost eight hours–compared to other shades, at least. See comparison swatches / view dupes.
Graphite #5 is described as a “silver.” It’s more of a pewtery gold with subtle, warmer undertones with a metallic sheen. Applied dry, it was semi-sheer in coverage, and it did intensify to mostly opaque pigmentation when applied with a dampened brush. The texture was soft, blendable, but it was somewhat powdery. This was the only shade I liked in the palette. On me, the color wore well for seven and a half hours. See comparison swatches / view dupes.