Friday, August 31st, 2012


Urban Decay Fun Eyeshadow Palette (2012)

Have a Little Fun, Won’t You?

Urban Decay Fun Eyeshadow Palette (2012) ($36.00 for 0.18 oz.) includes six eyeshadows: Maui Wowie (metallic golden beige with silver glitter), Deep End (bright teal shimmer), Sellout (pinky champagne), Fishnet (bright pink with purple shift), Stray Dog (cool metallic ash brown), and Freakshow (deep royal purple pearl) and one Lip Junkie in Midnight Cowboy (sheer nude sparkle).

Maui Wowie is platinum gold, not quite antique gold, with silver micro-glitter. It seemed less glittery than previous iterations of Maui Wowie that I’ve come across. The texture was soft, applied smoothly, and had excellent color payoff. Maybelline Bold Gold is darker and more golden, yellower. Giorgio Armani #14 is darker. Wet ‘n’ Wild Dancing in the Clouds is grayer. MAC Retrospeck is more golden.

Deep End is a blue-based teal with a frosted finish. It had a soft, smooth texture, applied well, and had great color payoff. MAC Rain Drop is similar but has more of a silver shimmer/sheen. Tarina Tarantino Ozma is quite similar. MAC Cool Heat is bluer and less frosted. theBaml Open to Offers Olwen is similar.

Sellout is a soft champagne with a frosted, metallic shimmer-sheen. The texture felt smooth and silky, while it yielded nice color payoff. Milani Champagne Toast is warmer. Giorgio Armani Madreperla is lighter. MAC Summer Haze is darker and browner. Urban Decay Booty Call is more matte. Urban Decay Skimp is a smidgen lighter, less metallic. theBalm Hiii-Yaaa! is comparable.

Fishnet is a fuchsia purple with violet iridescence. It had a soft texture that applied smoothly with good color payoff (the weakest shade of the set, but I’d say it was still good, just not great!). MAC Infra-violet is pinker. NYX Violetta doesn’t have the iridescence. Tarina Tarantino Fantastical is purpler. Bare Escentuals Boudoir is similar but less iridescent. MAC Stars ‘n Rockets is comparable.

Stray Dog is a barely gray-tinged brown with very subtle warm undertones. The pigmentation was nice, and the hue applied smoothly and evenly. Giorgio Armani #28 is warmer, no gray. MAC Havana is a bit darker. Benefit Dandy Brandy is warmer. Urban Decay YDK is lighter with no gray tinge. MAC Buckwheat is less frosted.

Freakshow is a medium-dark violet purple with subtle red-burgundy undertones and a frosted finish. The payoff was great, and it applied smoothly and softly. Worth noting, this applies much better in their new eyeshadow formula than it did when it was a deluxe eyeshadow. Urban Decay Psychedelic Sister is similar, just slightly less red-toned. Urban Decay Delinquent is lighter. L’Oreal Perpetual Purple has less red undertones.

Midnight Cowboy (Lip Junkie) is a sheer champagne beige with champagne shimmer. What it does is add a lot of shimmer and a glossy shine. Because there’s not a lot of color, any shimmery sheer gloss will dupe it. The way it sparkles is lovely, and it’s a slightly thicker formula (without feeling heavy or tacky) that’s mint-scented. I will say that I don’t care for the baby-sized packaging, because it makes it difficult to hold and apply (even the slanted tip feels odd to use).  It wore for three hours when I tested it this go-round.

Yes, yes, we’ve seen these palettes before–kind of. Last spring, Urban Decay released three palettes (all with the same names). Last year’s Fun Palette included Woodstock, Baked, Uzi, Sin, Flipside, and Psychedelic Sister, plus it came with an eyeliner and primer potion. It had a total value of $80.83 and retailed for $34. This year’s palette six 0.03 oz. eyeshadows and a 0.11 fl. oz. Lip Junkie. The value of this year’s palette is $64.80 worth of eyeshadow and $6.15 worth of gloss, which results in a total value of $70.95. The palettes are similar, but not exact; I think the most obvious similarities is that there is a pink-beige, teal, and purple included. This palette doesn’t have a hot pink or a coppery-bronze kind of color, so it’s actually more wearable in some ways (but perhaps less “fun”).

It’s packaged in a sparkly teal patent/vinyl zippered pouch, and you can remove the eyeshadows entirely, so then you’d have a clutch so-to-speak. It’s pretty small, so you could fit an ID, maybe a key or two, and that’s about it. All three palettes when stacked do stick to each other a bit.  I didn’t have trouble with the zippers on two of them, but the third wasn’t sewn/stitched perfectly, and it’s extremely hard not to catch the zipper on the excess fabric (I have to figure how to get scissors in there to trim it).  I preferred the packaging of the previous palettes, as they slimmer.

Overall, these smaller palettes that Urban Decay releases are some of their better ones, because there aren’t so many shades that you risk getting duds, and they’re more compact thank big palettes like their previous Book of Shadows volumes. It’s also more affordable at $36 than their larger palettes at $50+ (of course, if that’s within your budget, it’s typically cheaper by the ounce buying the larger eyeshadow palettes).  This is a high-quality palette packed with pigmented eyeshadows that are soft to the touch, blend easily, and apply smoothly. I didn’t have any problems with these shades, and I had barely any fall out with Maui Wowie.

The Glossover

palette

Fun

A
It's a lovely palette that has a few pops of color along with some neutrals, so you can go for different looks without being overwhelmed by color. If it wasn't for the small amount of fall out from Maui Wowie, this palette would have been an A.

Product

9.5/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

9.5/10

Longevity

9/10

Application

4.5/5

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Thursday, August 30th, 2012

MAC Jungle Camouflage Face Kit
MAC Jungle Camouflage Face Kit

MAC & Carine Roitfeld: Jungle Camouflage Face Kit

MAC Jungle Camouflage Face Kit ($44.00 for 0.40 oz.) includes four eyeshadows: Dew (soft creamy beige), Camo (muted grayish taupe), Bad Lieutenant (blackened deep brown), and Carbon (intense black) as well as one Cremeblend Blush, Bootcamp Bronze (soft sheer chestnut).

Dew is a light warm beige with a subtle golden shimmer-sheen. It has a veluxe pearl finish. It’s color payoff is decent, but it’s a little dry and noticeably sheer. MAC Sahara Dust is less warm, less golden. Tarina Tarantino Elektron is similar but more metallic. Wet ‘n’ Wild Comfort Zone has a very similar shade.

Camo is medium brown with a barest hint of gray, but it has a noticeably warm undertone despite the inclusion of gray. It has a satin finish. The color payoff was the best out of the four shades–good overall, slightly dry in texture. Burberry Pale Barley is warmer with more of a shimmery finish. theBalm Sultry is very similar, just slightly darker. Bare Escentuals Namaste is grayer and darker. MAC Era is similar but more shimmery.

Bad Lieutenant is a blackened gray with a hint of burgundy. It has a matte finish. The pigmentation is poor, and the texture dry and stiff. On the lid, it was marginally better, but it was not very blendable. Guerlain by Emilio Pucci is more intense, more of a red undertone. Tarina Tarantino Saw Dust is very similar but more pigmented. MAC Dance in the Dark is comparable. MAC Midnight Flurry is marginally lighter. Wet ‘n’ Wild We’re Blasting Off is more cool-toned.

Carbon is a matte black, but if you look in the pan, there are a lot of sparkles–just none of them seem to translate. It was the oddest thing. This shade is part of the permanent range, and it’s actually included in both of the face kits in the collection, and they were about equal in their dry, stiff, poor color payoff-yielding textures. Slightly more pigmented when I used it on the eye (with a 222 brush), but boy, it did not want to move or budge, which made blending a pain in the butt!

Cremeblend Blushes are supposed to be creamy, easy to blend, have medium coverage, and have a natural finish. Bootcamp Bronze is a medium-dark orange-tan with a strong orange undertone. It’s a bit darker than the shade in the other face kit, but when you apply it to the skin, the difference is minute. While the color is buildable, it’s only to a point, and I’m not sure how well it will show up on darker complexions, as it took some layering to get it to show up on me–and when it does, it’s very faint–and I’m medium in color.  The wear with this shade was the same as Sand Storm: six hours of wear, at which point, there was noticeable separation and fading–and it did not care for having my drier cheeks under it at all.

This palette contains 0.22 oz. of eyeshadows (0.055 oz. each, which is 0.005 oz. more than a regular full-sized MAC eyeshadow), which is a $66 value. There is 0.18 oz. of Cremeblend Blush in here, which normally retails for $20.00/0.19 oz., so there is $18.95 value from that, for a total palette value of $84.95. (Note: Cremeblend blushes and eyeshadows are sold in pan form, depending on the shade, but I went with individual product prices, not pan prices. From a pan perspective, there is $52.80 in eyeshadow value and $16.11 in Cremeblend Blush value, for a total value of $68.91.) From a quantity point of view, this is absolutely a deal, which is great news!

Again, as a quick note: the two palettes are very, very similar with the major difference between in finish–this palette is more matte, while Desert Camouflage is more shimmery. I think this one has less quality than Desert Camouflage, because three shades are lacking in color payoff, and the textures across the board were dry, with some being particularly stiff (like Bad Lieutenant and Carbon).  When I wore these eyeshadows together, they wore for six and a half hours over a primer before starting to look faded.  Without a primer, they were more difficult to apply and blend, but they wore about the same length of time.

The Glossover

palette

Jungle Camouflage

D+
I think this one has less quality than Desert Camouflage, because three shades are lacking in color payoff, and the textures across the board were dry, with some being particularly stiff (like Bad Lieutenant and Carbon).

Product

7/10

Pigmentation

6.5/10

Texture

7/10

Longevity

7/10

Application

3.5/5

Results
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Thursday, August 30th, 2012

MAC Desert Camouflage Face Kit
MAC Desert Camouflage Face Kit

MAC & Carine Roitfeld: Desert Camouflage Face Kit

MAC Desert Camouflage Face Kit ($44.00 for 0.40 oz.) includes four eyeshadows: Sahara Dust (light neutral beige), Cactus Thorn (mid-tone brown bronze), Desert (shimmering warm taupe), and Carbon (intense black) as well as one Cremeblend Blush, Sand Storm (soft sheer warm caramel).

Sahara Dust is a pale beige with a soft, frosted finish. It has a satin finish, officially. The color payoff is decent, and it works well as a highlighter on the brow bone or inner tear duct. Illamasqua Slink is similar, slightly frostier. MAC Brule is more matte. Giorgio Armani Madreperla has a frostier finish. MAC Baby, It’s Cold is a smidgen yellower. MAC Vanilla is a touch lighter.

Cactus Thorn is a softened bronze-shimmered medium-dark brown. It has a frost finish. The pigmentation is good, though the texture was a bit dry. Dior Golden Savannaha is darker, browner. Giorgio Armani #26 is more shimmery. Urban Decay Chase is warmer and more metallic. theBalm Schitzo is very similar, but more pigmented and slightly more golden-toned. Wet ‘n’ Wild Comfort Zone is richer.

Desert is a gray-tinged brown with a hint of plum. It has a satin finish. It has decent color payoff but had a dry, stiffer texture. Bobbi Brown Slate is softer, more matte. MAC Aurora is lighter, more frosted. Dolce &G abbana Jewels is grayer. Inglot #360 is similar but matte.

Carbon is a matte black, but if you look in the pan, there are a lot of sparkles–just none of them seem to translate. It was the oddest thing. I feel like every time I swatch Carbon, it gets worse. And I’m not swatching the same one! This shade is part of the permanent range, and it’s actually included in both of the face kits in the collection, and they were about equal in their dry, stiff, poor color payoff-yielding textures. Slightly more pigmented when I used it on the eye (with a 222 brush), but boy, it did not want to move or budge, which made blending a pain in the butt! Because I happened to also have a really rich black that I was swatching (completely unplanned!) that was insanely pigmented, I took a comparison photo, just so you can see why Carbon is such a disappointment.

Cremeblend Blushes are supposed to be creamy, easy to blend, have medium coverage, and have a natural finish. Sand Storm is a warm, orange-tan with a soft, barely dewy finish (it read mostly matte when it dried down and set). There’s a yellowy-orange undertone that comes through. MAC Lush-Light is darker, browner. MAC Refined Golden is browner. MAC Tan Tint is a smidgen darker. It can be used sheerly with ease, and it can be built up a bit, though I’m not sure it will show up well on darker complexions–it just barely shows on mine (I’m about NC30 at the moment). It may add warmth without adding noticeable color. Yesterday, when I was testing the wear, my cheeks were slightly dry, and this wasn’t forgiving, unfortunately. I was hoping that the creamy consistency would help and was happy that I was testing a cream blush instead of a powder one, LOL! After six hours, it had separated and faded noticeably.

This palette contains 0.22 oz. of eyeshadows (0.055 oz. each, which is 0.005 oz. more than a regular full-sized MAC eyeshadow), which is a $66 value. There is 0.18 oz. of Cremeblend Blush in here, which normally retails for $20.00/0.19 oz., so there is $18.95 value from that, for a total palette value of $84.95. (Note: Cremeblend blushes and eyeshadows are sold in pan form, depending on the shade, but I went with individual product prices, not pan prices. From a pan perspective, there is $52.80 in eyeshadow value and $16.11 in Cremeblend Blush value, for a total value of $68.91.) From a quantity point of view, this is absolutely a deal, which is great news!

It’s a decent palette, but the inclusion of Carbon is really bringing down the overall quality of it on the whole.  The other three eyeshadows have decent color payoff, with Sahara Dust being the easiest to work with.  Sand Storm didn’t have fantastic wear, but it was blendable and looked good initially.  These eyeshadows were less stellar without a primer–they were less blendable and faded after six hours. Over a primer, I saw some minor fading of Desert and Carbon.  

It’s hard to recommend or feel good about a palette when one shade is such a dud and four shades are decent but not really phenomenal. I keep hoping for a stellar launch from MAC, but they aren’t making it easy at all.

I’ll have my review for the Jungle Camouflage palette up soon, but as a quick note: the two palettes are very, very similar with the major difference between in finish–this palette is more shimmery, while Jungle Camouflage is more matte.

The Glossover

palette

Desert Camouflage

B-
It's a decent palette, but the inclusion of Carbon is really bringing down the overall quality of it on the whole. The other three eyeshadows have decent color payoff, with Sahara Dust being the easiest to work with. Sand Storm didn't have fantastic wear, but it was blendable and looked good initially. It's hard to recommend or feel good about a palette when one shade is such a dud and four shades are decent but not really phenomenal.

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

8/10

Application

4/5

Results
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Monday, August 27th, 2012

Illamasqua Complement Eyeshadow Palette
Illamasqua Complement Eyeshadow Palette

These Shades Definitely Complement Each Other

Illamasqua Complement Eyeshadow Palette ($42.50 for -0.20 oz.) contains four shades: Slink (soft champagne shimmer), Focus (cool brown metallic), Forgiveness (rich chocolate plum), and Queen of the Night (blackened plum).

Slink is a pale champagne beige with a frosted finish. The color payoff was good, and it applied smoothly. It’s not an uncommon shade, though, so you may find you have several similar shades in your stash. Just a few shades to consider: Tarina Tarantino Elektron, MAC Call Me Bubbles, Giorgio Armani Madreperla, Urban Decay Booty Call, MAC Baby It’s Cold, MAC Dazzlelight, and many more.

Focus is a medium-dark brown with a gray-ish tinge and a soft, metallic finish. This is a Liquid Metal, so it’s like a cream eyeshadow in feel. When I used it alone, it was prone to creasing after a few hours. When I used it underneath other eyeshadows in the palette, it didn’t crease. Bare Escentuals Most Requested has more plum in it. Tom Ford Platinum has less red-orange tones. Urban Decay YDK is more golden. Urban Decay Wreckage is grayer.

Forgiveness is a soft plum with red undertones and a matte finish. This shade had decent pigmentation but was a little sheer and powdery. Lancome Color du Jour is a bit darker and has gold sparkle. Make Up For Ever #131 is darker and more intense. NARS Grand Palais is browner, less plum.

Queen of the Night is a dark, smoky purple with a blackened brown base and very fine shimmer (that doesn’t really translate). The texture was very, very dry and somewhat powdery, while the color payoff was good. Queen of the Night Pure Pigment is much better than the eyeshadow iteration. Bare Escentuals Romp is lighter. Urban Decay Rockstar is purpler. MAC Hypnotizing is lighter. NARS Lhasa is lighter and grayer. Bobbi Brown Black Violet is somewhat similar when sheered out.

All four shades work really well together, and it’s a very smoky, purple-themed look.  The quality, overall, is just okay.  The dryness and powderiness of Forgiveness and Queen of the Night were disappointing, especially because those are the two more interesting shades in the palette.  I really had to pack on Queen of the Night to get decent intensity, and it was prone to disappearing when you went to blend the color.  I noticed that after eight hours, Queen of the Night looked rather faded when applied over Focus.  I didn’t see creasing, but there was some fading.  However, I also layered Slink over Focus, and I didn’t see any fading there.

The Glossover

palette

Complement

C+
The quality, overall, is just okay. The dryness and powderiness of Forgiveness and Queen of the Night were disappointing, especially because those are the two more interesting shades in the palette. I really had to pack on Queen of the Night to get decent intensity, and it was prone to disappearing when you went to blend the color.

Product

8/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

8/10

Longevity

7.5/10

Application

3.5/5

Results
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Thursday, August 16th, 2012

Estee Lauder Violet Underground Eyeshadow Palette
Estee Lauder Violet Underground Eyeshadow Palette

Take Me to the Violet Underground

Estee Lauder Violet Underground Eyeshadow Palette ($48.00 for 0.15 oz.) consists of five shades ranging from pink to black to brown. The formula is long-wearing and is not supposed to crease while still blending easily.

The first shade is a vibrant fuchsia pink with a subtle metallic sheen. When applied dry, it’s slightly sheer and looks like it has a soft frost finish. When applied damp, it is incredibly opaque and vibrant with a soft metallic finish. MAC Moon Rose is just a little less fuchsia. MAC Tease With Ease is softer. NARS Caravaggio is darker. Urban Decay Woodstock is very similar. MAC Bright Fuchsia is also close.

Next to the fuchsia shade is a chocolate bronze with a metallic sheen. When applied dry, it still retains a subtle metallic finish and has excellent color payoff. When applied damp, it becomes more intense but doesn’t change too much. NARS Surabaya is similar but has a less metallic finish. Make Up For Ever #14 has less red in its base. theBalm Tres Moi is less red-toned and a smidgen lighter. Le metier de Beaute Bordeaux has a stronger red undertone. Chanel Ebloui is grayer.

Moving on, we arrive at a light beige-peach with soft, warm undertones and a frosted finish. It’s nearly the same whether it is used damp or dry, though it becomes just slightly more metallic when it is used wet. The pigmentation is full and opaque both ways. Bare Escentuals Stealth is more matte in finish and a little lighter. Dolce & Gabbana Jewels is a fraction lighter. MAC Say Yeah is frostier and has a subtle golden sheen. theBalm Luscious Lani is noticeably lighter and more metallic in finish.

In the middle is a dark black with subtle shimmer that’s just barely noticeable. It has good color payoff when used dry, though it is more intense when applied damp. When applied, it does intensify better with a brush than just in a swatch even when applied dry. It’s not quite as dark as MAC Dark Dare or Milani Pitch Black. It is darker than MAC Carbon.

The final shade is a rich violet with hints of blue and an underlying dark base. It had good pigmentation dry but had less depth, whereas when applied damp, it took on a much more intense, deeper look, though both dry and damp had similar metallic finishes. I felt that this was the least dupeable shade in the palette, because it is a darker purple with only a hint of blue. Giorgio Armani Ecailles Black Pearl is lighter, less blackened. MAC Starless Night is darker, not really blue–more black in its base (so you lose some of the purple). MAC Imaginary has no blue. Givenchy Lune Mordoree is bluer. Urban Decay Frigid is the closest but it lacks the blackened base.

I think this is one of the most stunning eyeshadow palettes that has launched in the past few years. It’s utterly breathtaking–whether or not these are the kind of hues you’d feel comfortable wearing or not, it’s a showstopper. What I love is that it does deliver on the color, and all five shades work well together; not just in one color combination but multiple ones. If you prefer subtle pops of color, there are two more neutral shades (beige and bronze) that can be accented by the richer shades (pink and violet) or darkened (black).

These wore impeccably, too!  I had no problem achieving nine hours of wear with no fading or creasing with or without a primer, and I used four of the five shades in the look (no black).  They were easy to blend, didn’t have any fall out, and applied with full color without having to pack it on.  It comes in a purple metallic case with a mirror on the inside and two dual-ended sponge-tipped applicators. The only criticism I could come up with was the pink shade could be better pigmented dry.

The Glossover

palette

Violet Underground

A+
I think this is one of the most stunning eyeshadow palettes that has launched in the past few years. It's utterly breathtaking--whether or not these are the kind of hues you'd feel comfortable wearing or not, it's a showstopper.

Product

10/10

Pigmentation

9.5/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

10/10

Application

5/5

Results
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Tuesday, August 7th, 2012

Dior Khaki Design Eyeshadow Palette
Dior Khaki Design Eyeshadow Palette

Camouflage Your Eyes with These Jungle Hues

Dior Khaki Design Eyeshadow Palette ($59.00 for 0.21 oz.) consists of four eyeshadows and one cream eyeliner, and all of these are in hues of greens, khakis, and olives. This eyeshadow palette is designed to be layered, as each shade has a different texture. It comes with a plastic insert that shows the labeling of what each shade is. Four of the shades can be treated as eyeshadows, while the fifth shade is a cream eyeliner.

The first shade, located on the upper left, is a darkened olive green with a subtle gray-tint that gives it that subdued color. It has noticeable brown undertones and a soft dusting of shimmer. The color payoff was good, and the texture was soft and smooth. NARS High Society is duller, grayer. Girogio Armani #25 has a blacker base and a ton more shimmer. Bare Escentuals Speaker Box is more shimmered. Giorgio Armani Green Jacquard is similar but less pigmented. MAC Femme Noir is greener, richer. Make Up For Ever #47 is greener.

The second shade, located on the upper right, is a sheer golden shimmer, which is noted as a “shine.” It can be layered over one of the other eyeshadows to add shimmer/sheen. The shimmer in it is finer than Dior Golden Savannah. Giorgio Armani #1 is more pigmented but similar in color–perhaps a touch browner. Giorgio Armani #18 is yellower. Tarina Tarantino Dreamy is similar but more like a regular eyeshadow, so it is opaque.

The third shade, located in the center, is an olive brown with a hint of green and a golden bronze shimmer. It has so-so color payoff; it’s a bit sheer, and it doesn’t build color well. theBalm Wocka, Wocka is similar but looks richer, as it is more pigmented. Bare Escentuals Spectacular is similar but more metallic in finish. MAC Sumptuous Olive is yellower. Inglot #419 is similar but very frosted.

The fourth shade, located on the bottom left, is a pale white gold with a frosted, metallic finish. The color is semi-sheer–it delivers more payoff than the upper right shade. Dior Couture Gold is chunkier and a smidgen yellower. MAC Carefree is similar in color but has more of matte finish. Bare Escentuals One Hit Wonder is also similar but a bit starker. Bare Escentuals Breathtaking is similar but has a less metallic finish.

The final shade, located on the bottom right, is a cream eyeliner that’s a blackened brown with a hint of teal shimmer.  The cream eyeliner has good color payoff, and it has a creamy consistency once you break through the initial surface.  It had so-so wear; it seemed a little faded and definitely migrated after six hours.

All of the shades had a soft, finely-milled texture that felt like butter and silk.  I liked the variation between finishes and light/dark within the palette, as it is more versatile–though I think it could have done with one more medium-colored eyeshadow instead of two pale/white golds that look more similar than not.  You would think that the Shine finish would have fall out problems, but it’s actually very easy to wear. I patted it over the darkest green eyeshadow, and I didn’t experience any fall out during the day.  When I wore the palette together, the eyeshadows wore for eight hours with very minor fading along the edges.

The Glossover

palette

Khaki Design

B+
If you like layering your eyeshadows, enjoy khaki/olive-toned eyeshadows, and don't mind some sheerer color, then you might like this. I don't think it's a must-have, though.

Product

9/10

Pigmentation

8.5/10

Texture

10/10

Longevity

8.5/10

Application

4/5

Results
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